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#1. RE: [E36M3] Stereo upgrade questions - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 14:03:33 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Stereo upgrade questions > Now that I've removed the interior, I'm finally going to put a decent > stereo system in my car. I'd be interested in hearing from anyone who > has done an aftermarket stereo install in their M3. I'm sure people that have done the upgrade will give you some good advice, but you can also search the archives at: http://www.bmw-m.net/Digest/ALL-DIGEST-SEARCH.htm You should be able to get some good info from past discussions. Jim Bassett
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Stereo upgrade questions - from Murray Roblin
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Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 16:52:58 -0700 From: "Murray Roblin" <murray@farleyroblin.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Stereo upgrade questions Mike wrote: > > - Installing larger than 5.25" speakers in the kick panels > - coax in kick panels vs. components (kick panel & door) > - using factory wiring harness & finding the > appropriate mating > connectors (amp & speaker) > - mounting amps, crossovers, etc. > - equipment and online source recommendations welcome > - any gotchas, advice, special adapters necessary, etc. > My observations & experience: 6.5" in kicks can be done with some work. Some claim to have done it without cutting metal, but most have had to cut to expand the holes. If you search in the car audio forum of bimmerforums.com, you can see what people have done. One guy even put a set of dynaudio 8" woofers down there and has the pics to show it! I've had coax and components both in the kicks. Coax are, of course, more unobtrusive. Those who know say that tweets need to be close to the mids for good sound stage, so I built simple wedge mounts for the tweets and attached them to the plastic kick panel cover, which worked fine. I've got a set of KEF coax's now, and they sound great. I started with the factory harness, but have since pulled a set of RCAs. Going the factory route worked fine, but it was a pain to cut the connector off at the factory amp and wire up a new connector for my amp. You won't find a matching connector at the amp end, so you'll have to cut off the factory one and then wire up a new one. In retrospect, I shouldn't have done it this way and should have gone with separate RCAs from the beginning. OTOH, pulling the seat and lifting the carpet for the new RCAs was a pain as well. You can also use the factory wiring to run the amp outputs to the speakers, which works fine. As I had mids and tweets in the kicks, I cut the door tweeter wire at the kick and routed it to the kick tweeter. I've since pulled larger gauge speaker cable to the fronts. Simple mounting schemes such as mounting the amps to the back of the rear seats, or on a panel underneath the deck work. I got fancy and built a hinged amp rack which mounts vertically and is attached by a hinge to the plastic deck piece behind the left rear tire. Works fine, though not as clean as I'd like it. Also, it took way to long to fab. I'm mounting crossovers on a panel which runs along the inside of the left fender, from the lights to above the left rear tire well. It is mounted primarily at the three M5 (M6?) factory amp rack mounting holes. I initially used velcro attached to the inside of the rear fender to hold the xo's in place, but have since gone with larger, active xo's. I haven't fully figured out the subs yet. People like the stealthbox installs, which mount up to the factory rear speaker holes. I understand that these are, or may be discontinued. Someone over on bimmerforums.com makes a MDF adapter which will allow you to mimic this using an IB speaker of your choice. I've got some funky KEF subs which I'll be playing with when I get some time. You can either buy a harness adapter which will allow you to connect the factory harness to the HU at the front, or you can pull your own cables and pick up power and ground through taps. The adapter is available from autotoys or crutchfield(?). You'll also want the antenna adapter. Some have complained about losing antenna performance due to not running the diversity antenna; hasn't been a problem for me. Using the harness adapter and the factory connector works, but the connectors are very bulky and can be a pia when installing the HU. Check out unofficialbmw.com for some pics of Chester's A/D/S install. There are also some other pics of a guy with a set of 10 or 12" IB subs mounted in the factory location. I'm a cheapskate and buy used. I picked up much of my stuff on ebay and on other car forums, e.g. sounddomain, elitecaraudio, and carsound. I only got ripped off buy one guy; everyone else has been straight up, but I'm a bit more diligent about checking up now. Have fun. My equipment: Mids/tweets: KEF UNI-Q 130s Subs: KEF KAR200SW (to be installed) HU: Alpine 7xxx CD amps: PPI PCX 440 powering fronts, biamped, to be replaced by an ads PH15 (to be installed) Directed 500 bridged for subs (to be installed) xo's: Audiocontrol 4XS (to be replaced by 2 A/D/S Ax2e) Audiocontrol EQX
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#3. FW: failure delivery - from Murray Roblin
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Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2003 18:24:58 -0700 From: "Murray Roblin" <murray@farleyroblin.com> Subject: FW: failure delivery Chester asked me to forward this to the list: Wow! People actually read my crap! =) I kinda did the same thing as Murray. First used the factory wiring and then went with RCAs. I agree with his thoughts....go with RCAs from the get go or you'll just end up cutting wires and stuff....and that sucks. Running the RCAs down the left side of the car is no biggie if you remove the seat and the side plastic trim along the bottom of the door opening. While you're at it, run separate ground and power cables to the head unit (I have no alternator whine whatsoever) and run new speaker wires too...it's real easy at this point. I have an 8 channel amp and I don't have any passive crossovers...my head unit (Alpine CDA-7998) has a crossover network built into the head that you can control...so it's super easy to fine tune crossover points and slopes (or whatever you call them). > > Chester > > > > --- Murray Roblin <murray@farleyroblin.com> wrote: > > > Check out unofficialbmw.com for some pics of > Chester's A/D/S > > > install. There are also some other pics of a > guy with a set > > > of 10 or 12" IB subs mounted in the factory location.
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#4. FS: Euro HFM, JimC chip for Euro HFM, airbox, adapter, cone filter system - from Msebmwman@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 01:58:27 EDT From: Msebmwman@aol.com Subject: FS: Euro HFM, JimC chip for Euro HFM, airbox, adapter, cone filter system All; I have another thing I have found in my garage that I would like to sell. This is a Jim Conforti Euro HFM intake, adapter, chip for euro HFM, and Euro airbox system that came out of my 95 M3 Lightweight and a cylindrical filter for an open intake system. It has the following used for 20K miles components all of which were working when removed from the LTW. 1. JimC chip mapped for the Euro HFM for a 1995 M3 built after 1/95 (cars that have EWS) and with stock fuel injectors. Chip originally purchased from Turner and in Turner chip box. Sticker on chip has Turner, the T413-301 part number on it as well as "1995 M3 HFM". Any question as to how much HP or torque extra this chip will give I can't answer since I never dynoed the car (and it varies per car…production variances in our engines). It does raise the rev limiter to 7000 rpm in all gears, and, removes the top speed limiter. 2. Euro M3 HFM 3. "Steve Brown" adapter (CNC aluminum and rubber boot used to adapt euro HFM diameter down to US rubber elbow diameter) 4. Euro airbox. This box looks similar to the US airbox. It does use the stock US air filter size from your US 95M3. I keep one of these around for my 95 M3 to decrease intake "noise" at Laguna Seca or other tracks that may have noise limitations. 5. A K and N panel filter for the Euro M3 (or US M3) airbox 6. Euro air duct that directs air from the left side of the radiator to the airbox and has the snorkel that goes down to the left brake duct on it as well. 7. Make your own cold air intake with this additional bonus: a large cylindrical (not a cone, a cylinder) K and N air filter measuring 5 in. diam.. x 8.5 in. length mated to a short piece of 30 degree angle white PVC pipe that is mated to a rubber boot that would attach to the airbox end of the Euro HFM above. You would only need to make or supply brackets to hold this filter in place as well as a heat shield to keep hot engine and radiator/fan air from being sucked into the K and N filter. Turner sells Euro box, Euro HFM, adaptor, and chip on sale at $899 plus shipping. Turner sells a cone filter kit for $199 plus shipping. I would like to get 500 plus shipping by UPS ground within the continental US for items 1 through 7 combined. Here is a series of e-mails that someone has collected on the web that you will probably have to copy and paste into your browser to read: http://member.rivernet.com.au/btaylor/BMWText/technical/ConfortiIntakeE36M3.ht ml I don't have a digital picture at this specific moment. I plan to take one in the next few days that I can send to serious inquirers. I won't be sending or providing installation instructions for any of this kit as I don't have that anymore. There should be examples of those out on the web or through this great list. Regards, Marc 95M3
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#5. FS: Hood Front Seal - from Junaidi Irwan
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Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 13:32:17 -0700 (PDT) From: Junaidi Irwan <cuwei@yahoo.com> Subject: FS: Hood Front Seal I have a Brand New Hood Front Seal (P/N: 51238207821) laying in my storage. This is the seal between the hood and the front bumper(headlights & Nose Panel). Let me know if anyone is Boston area is interested. First $10 takes it. Jay __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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#6. E36 Fan delete kit - from Michael Feldpusch
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Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 19:44:27 -0600 From: "Michael Feldpusch" <m.feldpusch@comcast.net> Subject: E36 Fan delete kit Anyone know where I can get the full fan delete kit including the fan? Any additional information I may need. E36 1995 M3 Thanks Michael
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#7. Re: [E36M3] E36 Fan delete kit - from ChuckBrazeau@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 21:42:04 -0400 From: ChuckBrazeau@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36 Fan delete kit You can get the full kit from http://www.understeer.com/ :-D Chuck Brazeau 1995 BMW M3 - Violet on Black SCCA Solo2 - Street Modified #95 http://www.brazeauracing.com/ In a message dated 9/17/2003 9:30:11 PM Eastern Daylight Time, m.feldpusch@comcast.net writes: > Anyone know where I can get the full fan delete kit > including the fan? Any additional information I may need. E36 1995 M3 > > Thanks > Michael
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#8. Re: [E36M3] E36 Fan delete kit - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 20:47:28 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36 Fan delete kit "Michael Feldpusch" <m.feldpusch@comcast.net> wrote: > > Anyone know where I can get the full fan delete kit including the > fan? Any additional information I may need. E36 1995 M3 Michael, I'll sell you one. $50 will buy you and old junk fan that you can throw away (aka delete) upon receipt. Let me know if you need instructions on where to mail the cash. alex f
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#9. adjustable camber plates - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 23:30:48 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: adjustable camber plates Group, Well, the next add-on I want to install on the car are adjustable camber plates. I'm looking for easy/quick adjustability for autocross then back to street. No change in ride height would be nice. I'm still on stock springs, but use Koni SA's and Eibach sway bars up front. What is the best choice here? Any advice would help. TIA. Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA BSP Champion '01 & '02
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#10. Re: [E36M3] adjustable camber plates - from Chris Teague
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Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 21:30:39 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] adjustable camber plates Bob, I would give up the thought of changing camber back and forth between street and autocross settings. Changing camber changes toe (a lot), and it's real tough to get accurate settings if you are in a hurry. That's my $0.02. Since I am running stock style (H&R) springs, I went with the TCKline plates. Very nicely made, but very expensive. But they work with stock style springs. Last time I checked, the ground control plates (also nicely made) need coilovers. Keep in mind the TCKline plates (and the race ground-control plates) use a solid metal bearing. Probably not the best thing for street use. It doesn't bother me, but I don't drive the car a lot on the street, and autocross performance is more important to me. So I just set my plates at 3 degrees negative. I have had them for almost a year, and still don't notice any huge abnormal wear on the street tires. But I don't run any toe out at all. And that has a big effect on tire wear. And they work great for autox. Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2003 23:30:48 EDT > From: Mdriver13@aol.com > Subject: adjustable camber plates > > Group, > > Well, the next add-on I want to install on the car are adjustable camber > plates. I'm looking for easy/quick adjustability for autocross then back to > street. No change in ride height would be nice. I'm still on stock springs, but > use Koni SA's and Eibach sway bars up front. What is the best choice here? > > Any advice would help. TIA. > > Bob Gill