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#1. Sway bar settings - from Craig Perrin
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Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 07:25:38 -0400 From: Craig Perrin <cperrin@tampabay.rr.com> Subject: Sway bar settings Are there "preferred" or "optimal" or "recommended" settings for RD sway bars on a mostly street-driven, sometimes autocrossed 95 M3--or do I just keep experimenting? Other relevant non-stock parts are Bilstein Sports, H&R Sports, and LTW staggered wheels. The car was recently aligned and shows no unusual tire wear. Sway bars go in this week-end. Thanks, Craig
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#2. car refuses to go into gear - from Tim Ng
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Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 04:44:23 -0700 From: "Tim Ng" <s14realm3@peachtreebmwcca.org> Subject: car refuses to go into gear I just went thru this situation about 2 months ago with a friends e30 325is. He took the car into a non-BMW shop for a LTW flywheel install. When he got the car back, the car would not want to shift into gears 1,2,3. Yo have to shove the shifter with all your mite to get it into those gears. Turns out the shop put the clutch disk in BACKWARDS. The clutch springs were rubbing on the flywheel bolts and started to shave the heads of the bolts and sheering the springs!!!!. There was also a screeching sound when the clutch was released. Have your shop remove the clutch again and check for proper fitment. Tim Ng 95 E36 M3 BzznM3 92 E30 325ic M-tech convetible 91 E30 M3 street car 88 E30 M3 Track car 93 Chevy Blazer 2 dr. tow vehicle Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2003 15:25:15 -0400 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> Subject: car refuses to go into gear - suggestions? I have a persistent problem with my 95 M3 which is driving me absolutely NUTS. When the car is stopped, it is sometimes difficult-to-impossible to put the car in any gear. When the car is moving, it shifts mostly fine (still a bit notchy). For example, if I forget to shift into 1st as the car is coasting to a stop, I'm pretty much screwed. I have to really push the shifter
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#3. Re: [E36M3] adjustable camber plates - from James Clay
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Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 10:12:24 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] adjustable camber plates Ground Control, whether race or hybrid/soft require some kind of front coilover system. We just picked up Hiop plates also. We stock the soft version only (prefer GC for a race plate). This is a much nicer plate than some of the others out I think, has a nice large spherical bearing, plus some urethane to isolate it a little. A little over $300 for the pair. James James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648
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#4. Rollover bars - from Frank Logan
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Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 11:43:11 -0700 From: "Frank Logan" <fblogan@cox.net> Subject: Rollover bars Does anyone on the list have any info on how to get the E36M3 convertible's rollover bars retracted. Mine deployed when I was rear-ended by a senior driver yesterday. There is an interlock with the top that will not allow the top to be raised when the bars are deployed. The car is in the tow yard waiting to be totaled (I hope), but I would like to save the interior if possible. The Dealer said it had to come to them for the secret tool and resetting the system. I just want to keep Rocky the 150 lb junkyard Rottweiler from taking a liking to the leather. Second question: After everything from the doors back has been shoved forward and bent, is it savable? The car did everything it was supposed to do to absorb the impact (50 mph Malibu hitting me while I was stopped at a light) but I don't think it will ever be the same. Thanks for any input. Frank Logan '98 E36 M3 Ca fblogan@cox.net
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#5. M Coupe? - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 21:25:17 -0400 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: M Coupe? A friend in looking into buying a 99 MCoupe. I realize the styling is hot topic (I happen to like it) but are there any other issues to worry about with the M Coupes? Anything particular about the 99 models? Jeremy Lucas 95 M3
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#6. Cutting bilstein bumpstops - from Chris Conner
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Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 00:41:05 -0400 From: "Chris Conner" <chris@digital7.com> Subject: Cutting bilstein bumpstops Has anyone actually but bilstein bumpstops? I pulled the bilstein sport struts off the car last weekend to attempt. I could not get it to budge. I turned clockwise with a big screwdriver as instructed on unofficialbmw.com. I also bought a screwdriver socket and tried with my impact. it kept jumping off. I absolutely hate how the car rides with H&R race/bilstein. I don't know if I'm realizing it more recently, or if I was just optimistic before. I need to do something! Help! Chris
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Cutting bilstein bumpstops - from Rex Tener
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Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2003 22:02:17 -0700 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cutting bilstein bumpstops At 11:50 PM 9/18/2003 -0500, Chris Conner wrote: >Has anyone actually but bilstein bumpstops? I pulled the bilstein sport >struts off the car last weekend to attempt. I could not get it to budge. >I turned clockwise with a big screwdriver as instructed on >unofficialbmw.com. I also bought a screwdriver socket and tried with my >impact. it kept jumping off. List member Chuck Brazeau has the procedure on his web site: <http://www.brazeauracing.com/bumpstops.htm> Are you using an air impact or hand impact? I would loosen the nut, but leave it on the stud like Chuck recommends, and then use a hand impact driver to loosen the stud. -- Rex Tener rex_tener@yahoo.com
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Cutting bilstein bumpstops - from ChuckBrazeau@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 09:17:45 -0400 From: ChuckBrazeau@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Cutting bilstein bumpstops Be sure to soak the base of that stud with penetrating oil for about half an hour before you attempt to screw the stud down into the casing (if you haven't already tried that yet). I didn't soak the stud on my first one and it was a major hassle even with my friend helping. We let the second one soak in penetrating oil for about 30 minutes and it was real easy. ;-) Chuck Brazeau 1995 BMW M3 - Violet on Black SCCA Solo2 - Street Modified #95 http://www.brazeauracing.com/ In a message dated 9/19/2003 1:10:12 AM Eastern Daylight Time, rex_tener@yahoo.com writes: > List member Chuck Brazeau has the procedure on his web site: > > <http://www.brazeauracing.com/bumpstops.htm> > > Are you using an air impact or hand impact? I would loosen the nut, but > leave it on the stud like Chuck recommends, and then use a > hand impact > driver to loosen the stud. > > -- > Rex Tener > rex_tener@yahoo.com
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#9. Charge for Koni shock replacement - from DiVincenti, A.J.
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Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 11:05:37 -0500 From: "DiVincenti, A.J." <ADiVin@lsuhsc.edu> Subject: Charge for Koni shock replacement I'm going to change the front and rear shocks on a 99 M3 and replace with Konis for someone. What do you think would be a fair price to charge? AJ
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#10. '95 M3 Avus/Dove Gray FS - from eevans@planetc.com
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Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 12:46:42 -0400 From: eevans@planetc.com Subject: '95 M3 Avus/Dove Gray FS '95 Avus Blau w/ Dove gray, 5spd., 67K miles, excellent condition, staggered wheels. Stock no mods, need to sell. $18500 or best offer. Pix located at: http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/mdoctor37919/lst?.dir=/1995+BMW+M3+Avus+Blau&.src=ph&.view= Call for more details. Evan Evans President Smoky Mountain BMW CCA 865-694-3088
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#11. "Bimmerworld" brake duct brake cooling kit for sale - from Msebmwman@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 12:47:35 EDT From: Msebmwman@aol.com Subject: "Bimmerworld" brake duct brake cooling kit for sale All; Found another thing in the garage that I need to get rid of for E36M3s. I have a used mostly Bimmerworld brake ducting cooling kit that I would like to sell. Check the Bimmerworld catalog you will see most of the parts of the one that I have. Some parts of this setup came off my LTW. The LTW is still for sale (anyone interested??). You do not need to remove the hub to put these on. Bimmerworld sells their backing plate, hose, flange, brake duct kit for 405$ plus shipping. I would like 250$. That price includes shipping from 91344 within the continental US by UPS ground. I have the following as part of this: 1. The Blue Bimmerworld metal backing plates that were used for 5K miles. 2. The Black Bimmerworld wheel well liner flanges that have never been used along with the mounting bolts to mount them to the wheel well liner. 3. New black ducting hoses, 2 types, 2 lengths. See details below: The first type is used for the length between the home made brake duct and the flange connection at the wheel well liner. This is a low temperature area with virtually no movement of hose parts occurring. This is a 3 inch diameter hose and I have 37 inches of this hose available. The second type is used inside the wheel well for the length between the flange and the back of the backing plate. This is a higher temperature area that has the hose moving a lot with suspension movement as well as left and right turning. This is a 3 inch diameter hose and I have 32.5 inches of this hose available. This hose was purchased from Bimmerworld when the flanges were purchased and is labeled as "aeroduct" hose. 4. "Home made" brake ducts using the front of the original brake ducts from the M3 that attaches to the hole in the bumper along with another plastic piece bolted on the back that would fit the 3 inch hose. These brake ducts therefore would look stock from the front and also have the press fit attachment and hole in them for the press fit temperature sensors of the left and right brake ducts in them. 5. An assortment of hose clamps that I used to put the pieces and hoses on my LTW. I have digital pictures of this entire kit that I can e-mail to serious enquirers. Thanks, Marc 95M3