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#1. helicoil for 02 sensor. - from Jay
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Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 15:56:54 -0700 From: Jay <rx3sp@lanset.com> Subject: helicoil for 02 sensor. Same as the spark plugs. Jay Morris
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#2. M3 radiator R/R writeup - from Dames, Mark
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Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 17:05:20 -0700 From: "Dames, Mark" <Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US> Subject: M3 radiator R/R writeup I do lot's of track with the car. Here's a write up on the water pump that sounds good to me http://www.understeer.com/ especially useful for the bleeding air out of the system advice. but as to radiator R&R here's my shot at it. 1) get all hoses, (radiator upper and lower, pressure tank upper and lower), and plastic parts (bleeder screw, pressure tank rataining clip -- actually a collar that goes around the bleeder screw and also secures the pressure tank, lower hose straps, clips, plastic retainers, etc.) and tool to hold the fan while you loosen the fan nut, 2 small replacement hose clamps, BMW coolant and Safeway purified water (distilled water no longer available) 2) drain radiator using lower drain cock( will require removing underpanel, which you need to do anyway. 3), disconnect upper and lower radiator hoses at the T-stat housing (leave other ends on the radiator, retain hose clamps. 4)remove fan using holder tool and 32mm open end wrench, turn clockwise (reverse thread) to remove. 5) I believe (figured this out too late) that the radiator, upper and lower radiator hoses, pressure tank, upper and lower pressure tank hoses, and the fan shroud can be removed together as a unit, thus saving a lot of time and making diassembly and more important reassembly of the new parts much easier and faster. a) remove radiator cover/alternator air intake shroud (six screws, 4 metal and 2 plastic expansion rivets. Replace plastic ones if screw tops are stripped and/or rivets are damaged. b) remove two upper radiator retainer clips by inserting a screw driver into the top of the clip and prying till it releases. This is tricky, I believe I followed the direction in the Bentley manual for this. Can't remember the exact direction of prying but remember that the correct direction was counter intuitive. It doesn't take a lot of pressure to get it to release. Note that these plastic clips connecting into two wells in the radiator that were cushioned with rubber inserts. These inserts must be saved and added to the new radiator OR new inserts need to be added to the new radiator. Disconnect fan switch sensor wire from passenger side of radiator. Below that disconnect Expansion tank level sensor wires from botton of expansion tank. c) Disconnecting hoses. Disconnect lower pressure tank hose from the connecting pipe on the engine which is under the intake manifold and just behind the power steering reservoir. This hose is about an inch in diameter and although it connects to the underside of the pressure tank on the passenger side of the engine -- FORGET about that end. This hose runs from the pressure tank along the bottom of the fan shroud and then back along the drivers side frame rail (where it is connected to the fram by two plastic straps) and then crosses over behind the power steering reservoir and connects to a pipe with a hose clamp. Undue this hose clamp (you'll need a long, maybe 14in, thin screw driver to do this, or maybe a real short stubby one if you can get your hand in there. Retain the hose clamp. Disconnect the plastic straps holding the hose to the frame by cutting them with wire cutters/dykes. Remove the old plastic straps from their holes in the frame by taking a small nail punch and driving the center pin thru the middle of the strap's retainer/mount. The little pin will fall into the interior of the frame. The retainer prongs will now release their tension on the frame hole and the strap will come off the frame. Discard. d) Radiator assembly removal. Every thing is now disconnected. Your radiator,pressure tank, fan shroud unit is simply sitting on two plastic mounting prongs. Lift the whole assembly out of the car. Remove fan switch sensor from passenger side of radiatorn.NOTE: the two mounting prongs on thee bottom of the radiator have rubber cushioning donuts around them. These need to be saved and added to the new radiator or new ones purchased and added to the new radiator. e) New frame rail straps. The new straps are like zip ties with a retainer in the middle that will mount to the fram. Install new straps with the female zip tie end down. This makes threading the two zip tie ends together easier. You have to first drive the center pin out of the retainer. Then insert retainer into the frame hole. Then drive the center pin back into the retainer. 6) Reassembly. Take the expansion tank off the assembly by 1) removing the bleeder screw. 2) removing the retaining collar around the bleeder screw. 3) Disconnecting small disposable hose clamp on upper expansion tank hose. 4) Pull up expansion tank and disconnect lower hose. NOTE: how the upper thin hose winds its way through the fan shroud from the expansion tank on the passenger side of the radiator to the port on the drivers side of the radiator AND how the lower hose winds its way from the bottom of the expansion tank through the bottom of the fan shroud before it strikes out Southward along the frame rail. Take off the fan shroud (Note plastic rivets with push pins that connect shroud to radiator). Take new hoses, and reassemble the whole unit, and place it back in the car. Be aware of the slots that the radiator shroud fits into on the bottom of the radiator before resecuring the push pin rivets. Use new small hose clamps to reconnect upper expansion tank hose. Screw fan switch sensor with new washer into passenger side of radiator. Re-attach wires to fan switch. Re-attach wires to bottom of expansion tank. 7) Routing Lower Expansion tank Hose. Route hose along frame and up to pipe behind power steering reservoir. Tighten hose clamp with long screw driver. Circle frame rail mounting zip ties around hose and secure from below the car. Cut off excess zip tie with wire cutters. 8) Radiator hoses. Attach upper and lower radiator hoses to t-stat housing. 9) reattach radiator cover/alternator air intake shroud. 10) open bleeder screw 11) fill expansion tank/radiator with one gallon BMW anti- freeze. Leave cap off. Check for leaks 12) fill with one gallon Safeway purified water. Check for leaks. 13) turn heater controls to full on. 14) turn engine on. check for leaks 15) continue to fill with purified water. Monitor bleed screw hole for bubbles and top of expansion tank to see if upper hose port from radiator is dumping fluid (not air) from the radiator into the expansion tank. Fill till expansion tank is at "full" mark. 16) check water temp guage. 17) Tighten bleeder screw. Screw expansion tank cap on. 18) replace underside panel. 19) Remove fermented hop/malt/yeast cylinder from refrigerator. Remove top. Consume. That should get you through it, and I believe will be a more bullet proof job because you will have done what a shop most likely won't do (because it eliminates future business), and that is replace all the hoses that are going to fail after your radiator was going to. Mark. ======================== and here's the previous list I made of radiator parts so it's all in one place. RADIATOR PARTS LIST- Updated September 14, 2003 Having just completed this job . . . Here's an all inclusive list of radiator parts for the 1998 E36 M3 that may be wear items to be replaced when doing the radiator. All prices are BMWCCA club member prices thru Nick Alexander BMW 1-800-800-NICK except where indicated as "about" The expanding rivets, mounting rubber, mounting clips, are technically re-useable if you don't break them on disassembly but, they're either rubber or plastic and after 70,000+ miles of heat they will be either hard (rubber) or will be brittle (plastic), so it's a good idea to replace them. Larger S54 3-row radiator from MCoupe 17 11 2 227 281 (about $400) OR Stock M3 radiator 17 11 1 728 908 (about $150-200) OR Fluidyne or Zionsville all-metal radiator (about $400-600+) lower radiator hose 11-53-1-708-499 (11.88) upper radiator hose (21.60) bleeder screw 17-11-1-712-788 (2.30) pressure tank retainer 17-11-1-723-580 (.96) frame rail straps securing lower pressure tank hose (need 2) 32-41-1-112-282 (.29 ea.) lower pressure tank hose 11-53-1-740-649 (6.48) upper pressure tank hose 17-11-1-723-521 (9.96) expanding rivets to secure fan shroud (need 2) 17-11-1-712-963 "Profile GA" no idea what this is/recommended @ only .90 11-53-1-740-437 (.90) holder tool to secure fan while loosening fan nut 88-88-6-115-030 (20.46) (this thing doesn't fit worth a damm. It's supposed to secure the fan/clutch from rotating while you loosen the nut (clockwise - reverse thread). I half got it wedged in enough to break loose the viscous fan nut, so it accomplished it's purpose, but with not without the expenditure of needless effort that a proper design could have avoided. You need either this tool or something else to secure the fan . . . . ) sealing ring for fan switch 32-41-1-093-596 (.12) rubber buffer (need 2) 17-11-1-178-412 (.78 ea.) upper radiator mounting rubber (need 2) 17-20-1-719-414 (.54 ea.) radiator upper mounting clip (need 2) 17-11-1-723-341 (2.28 ea) (these are tricky to take off, high likelihood one might break, I'd recommend these for sure) profile gasket (top of radiator) (need 2) 17 10 1 712 609 expanding rivets to secure radiator cover/alternator air intake shroud (2) 51 48 1 915 964 BMW Coolant (supposedly non-corrosive, better than any aftermarket) 83 19 9 407 775 Safeway gallon of "Purified Water" said to be OK for all distilled water purposes, ironing etc. 2 small aftermarket screw-type hose clamps to replace the disposable BMW clamps on the upper expansion tank hose. I haven't included the plastic thermostat housing because it's recommended that you go with a metal after-market one and there's no downside to doing so. I got an aluminum one from www.bmpd.com new thermostat 11-53-7-511-580 new fan clutch (these can go bad, even though the fan is moving, it may not be giving you 100%. I was told mine was bad, dunno how to test for this), $75-$100 range. 11-52-7-505-302 water pump 11-51-7-503-884 Note: conflicting thought re: previous plastic impeller pumps that self destructed VS. 1998 model pumps which had metal impellers for a time but which are no longer available. There are after market metal impeller pumps available but feedback seems to be mixed on whether their bearings will last as long as a newer version BMW plastic impeller pumps which supposedly use more durable plastic now. I'm assuming mine is a 1998 BMW metal impeller and will not need replacement. mark. mark. -----Original Message----- From: David Flanary [mailto:dflanary@markhamvineyards.com] Sent: Friday, September 19, 2003 1:44 PM To: Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US Subject: radiator Hi Mark: Thanks for the parts list you posted to the digest. I will use it to make my Nick Alexander shopping list (those guys are GREAT). Do you have or know of a write-up as to how to R and R the radiator? Thanks, David W. Flanary Markham Vineyards p.s. Do you do any track w/ your car? I'm going to Track masters at THill on 10/17.
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#3. Oil Light Mystery - from Edward N Frank
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Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 20:48:16 -0400 From: "Edward N Frank" <enf@iglou.com> Subject: Oil Light Mystery Today, My oil light started coming on intermittantly. I checked the oil level and it was fine. The only thing the electrical diagram showed was a pressure sw that could be flaky. It flashed dimly every once and awhile, then after time comes on stronger, then basically goes away (stays off). It happens mostly when stopped, occasionally when moving. Any thoughts? Any major concerns here? I changed the oil about 1 or 2 weeks ago (Mobil 1syn). Replaced the O rings. Torqued to spec. Thanks Ed Frank 97 M3/4
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#4. O2 sensor thread - from RFKoby@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 21:46:25 EDT From: RFKoby@aol.com Subject: O2 sensor thread the thread is a M18 x 1.5 I had to "melt" an O2 sensor in order to change it and it messed up the threads... so I had to re-tap the thread to clean it up.... if you can't find a place to buy a tap, goto www.mscdirect.com this is a large industrial tooling supply, nation wide. that is where I got mine. http://www.mscdirect.com/IWCatProductPage.process?Merchant_Id=1&Section_Id=731 &pcount=15&Product_Id=104208 this is the cheapest one they have $16.75 bob In a message dated 9/19/03 5:32:41 PM US Eastern Standard Time, e36m3@bmw-m.net writes: Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 14:05:06 -0400 From: <cardinar@bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: O2 sensor thread size While driving to the BMW Performance Driving Center last Friday with other Peachtree CCA members, a large piece of metal was thrown up under my '95 M3, and took out the O2 sensor on the exhaust pipe, right in front of the CAT. Obviously the threads are damaged in the pipe, so I need to tap it and use a Helicoil before installing the new sensor. Problem is, I can't determine the size and pitch of the sensor. All the hardware stores and HD etc don't go over 16mm, and this is probably a 17mm or 18mm, with finer threads. I called Bimmerworld where I bought the sensor, they don't know for sure. Anyone know?
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#5. Wheel fitment - 16's on the front of an M3? - from Jon S.
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Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 20:48:27 -0500 From: "Jon S." <treehouse@comcast.net> Subject: Wheel fitment - 16's on the front of an M3? Anyone know what 16" wheels will clear the stock front calipers on E36 M3? I understand that the clearance is quite close, but hopefully there is a wheel that will work. I am also interested in knowing if there is a 16 that will fit even if it needs a spacer. Thanks in advance, Jon@TreehouseRacing.com
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Wheel fitment - 16's on the front of an M3? - from DocWyte
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Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 19:17:37 -0700 (PDT) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Wheel fitment - 16's on the front of an M3? I run TSW Trophys in the winter. They're a 16" and they clear... -josh --- "Jon S." <treehouse@comcast.net> wrote: > Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 20:48:27 -0500 > From: "Jon S." <treehouse@comcast.net> > Subject: Wheel fitment - 16's on the front of an M3? > > Anyone know what 16" wheels will clear the stock > front calipers on E36 M3? > I understand that the clearance is quite close, but > hopefully there is a > wheel that will work. I am also interested in > knowing if there is a 16 that > will fit even if it needs a spacer. > > Thanks in advance, > > Jon@TreehouseRacing.com > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > ===== __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software http://sitebuilder.yahoo.com
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#7. Tires for E36 M3 - from Go, Jeffrey
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Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 04:46:12 +0200 From: "Go, Jeffrey" <jeffrey.go@sap.com> Subject: Tires for E36 M3 Hi guys If I wanted to upgrade my tires... 1). What will fit my wheel without compromising my Traction control ? +1 ? What will be the size? Right now, I have 225/40/17 in front and 245/40/17 backs.. I believe it is 17.5 x 17 fronts and 18 x 17 rears thanks -----Original Message----- From: Jon S. [mailto:treehouse@comcast.net] Sent: DFri, Sep 19, 2003 18:50 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Wheel fitment - 16's on the front of an M3? Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 20:48:27 -0500 From: "Jon S." <treehouse@comcast.net> Subject: Wheel fitment - 16's on the front of an M3? Anyone know what 16" wheels will clear the stock front calipers on E36 M3? I understand that the clearance is quite close, but hopefully there is a wheel that will work. I am also interested in knowing if there is a 16 that will fit even if it needs a spacer. Thanks in advance, Jon@TreehouseRacing.com ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Oil Light Mystery - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 20:38:40 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Oil Light Mystery At 05:50 PM 9/19/03, Edward N Frank wrote: >Any thoughts? Either a fault with the sensor, or with the oil pump/sprocket/chain. Having oil in the pan does not necessarily mean it's getting pumped into the engine. >Any major concerns here? Possibly. I would NOT drive the car anymore, and get it towed to a mechanic you trust. Hopefully he/she can check the pressure sensor to determine if it's OK or not, and go from there. Having no oil pressure is BAD - see below :-) Hope that helps and good luck (hopefully it's a simple electrical/sensor issue), Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - oil pump nut secure 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 - oil pump nut secure AFTER complete loss of pressure at the track (~$7000 to fix!!)
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#9. Anyone have used-up Hawk Blue 9012's? - from John Hovell
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Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2003 23:50:27 -0700 (PDT) From: John Hovell <jhovell@stanford.edu> Subject: Anyone have used-up Hawk Blue 9012's? Hi all -- I've got some pad deposits on my rotors and heard the Hawk Blue 9012's were pretty good at abrading pad deposits on rotors when cold. I was hoping someone might have a used up set they'd sell me for cheap, say $30 or so (enough to make it worth it to mail it to me). Or, if someone in the Bay Area (California) has a set, I'll come pick them up from you and pay you a reasonable price for them. I'm looking for a full set, i.e. fronts *and* rears, but will take any if you got them. Thanks! - John
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#10. Civilized power and torque ... - from The Buch
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Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2003 00:04:31 -0700 From: The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> Subject: Civilized power and torque ... I've now had my '99 M3 coupe for about four years, and suddenly am having a bit of an itch for some more juice ... went out and test drove a few Porsche 993s, which were thrilling but hard to come to grips with paying twice what my car is worth for a bit more sportiness and whole lot less practicality, and to someone who clearly didn't give a damn about their machine ...so, now I'm back to figuring out how to get some significant improvement in low-end grunt and overall performance. First thought - supercharging ... would appreciate knowing if Dinan (or anyone else) really delivers the broad gains publicized on their website on a consistent basis ... any way to reliably add this capability without buying the whole kit, thereby using my Conforti intake and software? ... or do you get what you pay for? As always, thanks, Doug