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#1. Front Windshield Replacement - from Lew Becker
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Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 21:57:43 -0700 From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> Subject: Front Windshield Replacement Call Art, at Silicon Valley Auto Glass in San Jose. He's replaced the windshields in my M3 a couple of times, and in several others cars I've owned (including another E36). Good job every time. When I met him, Art had an E36 Dinan M3; when I saw him last, he had an E46 M3 ... draw your own conclusions. Lew Becker -----Original Message----- -------------------- 10 -------------------- Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 17:52:16 -0700 (PDT) From: Venkata Yella <v_yella@yahoo.com> Subject: Front Windsheild Replacement Folks, I need to replace my car's front windsheild. I saw a crack in the glass this morning and it's growing. Does anyone know how much it costs and where you can get it cheap? Also, I would appreciate if someone can recommend a good shop that does glass replacement for bmws in Bay Area(Sunnyvale). I don't know what portion of replacement cost is covered by imy insurance(All State). Thanks in advance. 99 M3/2 51k SS, clutch stop. -Yella v_yella@yahoo.com --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free, easy-to-use web site design software ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Which tire size is better for autocross - 245/45/17 or 225/45/17? - from Michael Feldpusch
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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 00:05:41 -0600 From: "Michael Feldpusch" <m.feldpusch@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Which tire size is better for autocross - 245/45/17 or 225/45/17? Fender flaring, and to tell ya... unless you have the same year next to it.. you'll never know that there are 285s on the car. This is Bob Tunnel's and David Fauths E36 Michael ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Dadgar" <mark@pdc-racing.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2003 9:50 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Which tire size is better for autocross - 245/45/17 or 225/45/17? > Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 20:43:57 -0700 > From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Which tire size is better for autocross - 245/45/17 or 225/45/17? > > On Wednesday, September 24, 2003, at 08:40 PM, Alain van der Heide > wrote: > > I was talking about tire choices with a couple of local hot-shoes (past > > Nat'l champs) who run an E36 M3 in SM and an S54 M-roadster in ASP. I > > currently run 225 Hoosiers, and both of them told me that's too narrow > > for > > an E36. The exact words were "I'm amazed you can turn in at all with > > those". These guys will go to 245 on very cold days and 285 (that's > > not a > > typo) when it's warm. > > I'd LOVE to know how they fit 285's on an E36. I run 255 Kumhos (same > width as the 245 Hoosiers) and it required some SERIOUS fender rolling > to get them to fit. > > No way would a 285 even come close. No way. > > - Mark > ----- > mark@pdc-racing.net > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#3. Brakes - from Edward N Frank
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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 01:52:40 -0400 From: "Edward N Frank" <enf@iglou.com> Subject: Brakes OK this DIY stuff has taken on a life of its own. The oil light mystery was a sensor. $54.00 Covered by warranty. Now, Brakes. I am just starting to get a squeal (metal sound). Car has 64,000 miles daily driver. Dealer is quoting $250 front pads & rotors turned. $75 replace brake fluid $650 up if rotor need replacing. I have changed pads before but not on an M3. Here are the questions; 1) What type of replacement pad? BMW? Other? 2) How hard a job is it? Anything out of the ordinary? 3) Can I pull the rotors and just have them turned if needed? 4) If I do the brake job, can I go anywhere and get the fluid changed? Bonus question!!!!!!!!!! Any reputable national brake places that can do this well at less cost, I mean brakes are brakes right?????? Thanks in advance, The help so far has been tremendous! Ed Frank 97M3/4
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#4. Re: [E36M3] need help with springs - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 04:58:12 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] need help with springs Bob, I have Dinan springs, Bilstein shocks/struts and stock sway bars (w/BMP urethane bushings) on my 1995 M3. I bought my springs about 5 years ago. Your first problem will be getting them. I had to beg and plead with Dinan to just sell me the springs. They really wanted to sell me the full Stage 1 kit for $1,000+. I see they are listed on Dinan's web site for $365 separately. That is about double the price of other springs. You ask about the source for Dinan's springs? Legend has it that Dinan produces his own springs (and charges top dollar for them). Based on my Dinan springs, I could argue yes - Dinan's springs are unique. See my discussion below. I think Dinan's springs are even different in that they are more linear rate versus more progressive rate for the other brands. I installed my Dinan springs and have helped friends install every other aftermarket spring in their M3's including 3 different H&R springs and Eibach Pro springs. Based on my very scientific (and highly accurate) hand squeeze and "stand on the spring" tests <g>, I have made some evaluations on the various springs. Front springs: Dinan springs are very soft, nearly the same spring rate as stock. They are just a little shorter than stock. H&R springs are much stiffer and shorter. Eibach Pro springs are in the middle. Rear springs: Dinan springs are the stiffest except for the H&R Race springs. H&R Sport and OE Sport are moderately stiffer than stock but softer than Dinan. Eibach Pro springs are just barely stiffer than stock. Notice a pattern here? Dinan springs are soft in the front and stiff in the rear. I'm sure you are well versed in suspension tuning. One very good way to reduce understeer (which the E36 M3 has plenty) is to use soft front springs and stiff rear springs. You have to give Steve Dinan credit - he is serious about suspension tuning. I really think they go a long way to reducing understeer in my M3. What to recommend to you? That is a tough call. If you want a pure street car, I highly recommend the Eibach Pros. A friend has Eibach Pros and Koni's on his M3. It is the nicest riding M3 I have seen. Moderate amount of lowering. But for you, you need something different. You could try the Dinan's if you don't mind spending $365. You will not lower your M3 very much - less than 1/2". So if you want a "lowered" look, Dinan won't do it. Ride comfort will be OK, especially since you have Koni shocks. With my Bilstein shocks, nothing is comfortable. However, if I had it to do over again, I would use a combination of H&R springs. H&R springs can easily be bought for $225 or less vs. $365 for Dinan. What I would do is use H&R Race rear springs and H&R Sport front springs. That would lower both ends of the car about 1.25 inches plus give that soft front/stiff rear bias. Of course this would mean buying two sets of H&R springs and paying $450! < vbg> However, I think TC Kline does this mix and matching of H&R springs in his suspension kits. I have a friend that bought TC Kline's "street" kit. It definitely had mixed springs. So.... I would recommend calling TC Kline. Kline certainly knows a thing or two about suspension tuning of BMW M3's. You could probably get a mixed set of H&R springs for the standard $225 price - just tell Kline what you want. Good luck! Lowell Seaton 1995 M3/2 BMW CCA #131505 --------------------------------------- Mdriver13@aol.com writes: > Does anyone know exactly what Dinan uses for their springs? Is it the > Eibach > Pros or one of the H&R versions? This daily driver needs another upgrade to > > become more competitive in SM. I have resisted changing the springs, but am > > now going to go for it! I'm looking to improve my handling but only want to > > compromise ride quality a little. So....what are the springs of choice for > this > half-a$$ approach? >
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Brakes - from Jeremy Lucas
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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 06:25:02 -0400 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brakes See below... ----- Original Message ----- > I have changed pads before but not on an M3. > > Here are the questions; > > 1) What type of replacement pad? BMW? Other? > 2) How hard a job is it? Anything out of the ordinary? > 3) Can I pull the rotors and just have them turned if needed? > 4) If I do the brake job, can I go anywhere and get the fluid changed? You'll get a million answers as to what pad so I'll leave that one alone. If you've done other brakes, you'll find it's easy. You need the right size allen socket for rotor removal and the right size for the bleeder screws, everything else I already had the first time I went to do mine (you may need some tubing for the bleeding if you've never done that before). M rotors are not supposed to be turned but I've done it (Steve D) before to remove track pad build up but at your mileage I'm guessing it's not a good idea. You can flush your own fluid with a non mechanically inclined helper (aka. the wife, neighbor, mailman), you just need some one to repeatedly step on the pedal while you crack open the bleeder on the caliper and when the fluid runs clean you've changed the fluid. > Any reputable national brake places that can do this well at less cost, I > mean brakes are brakes > right?????? Not really. Once you try different performance pads, you'll realize how much difference they make in the feel of the car. Jeremy Lucas 95 M3
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Brakes - from K.C. Boyce
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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 08:13:53 -0400 From: "K.C. Boyce" <kcb@abcgroup-inc.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Brakes Ed asks: > 1) What type of replacement pad? BMW? Other? You'll get as many opinions on this as there are people on this digest (if not more). I've heard good things about the Axxis Ultimates as a street pad. A lot less dust than stock, but a bit less grab. I had to make the decision recently and went with the OE BMW pads. I don't mind cleaning my wheels, and I like the performance of the brakes the way they are. > 2) How hard a job is it? Anything out of the ordinary? Nothing out of the ordinary at all. Two bolts in the caliper and you've got access to the pads. Two more bolts and you've taken off the entire caliper (if necessary to access the rotors). The rotor is held on by a hex-head locator bolt. Depending on the condition of the car and how they installed rotors the last time, you may have to 1) use an impact wrench or 2) drill out the bolt head if it's stuck. Rubber mallet on the backside of the rotor should free it up once the locator bolt is out. > 3) Can I pull the rotors and just have them turned if needed? Not recommended. BMW rotors won't last much longer if you turn them. Removing the metal reduces their resistance to warping. If the rotors are near minimum thickness, best to bite the bullet and replace them. You can get rotors fairly inexpensively (~$150 f & r). > 4) If I do the brake job, can I go anywhere and get the fluid changed? Yes. Or you can buy a pressure bleeder and do it yourself! There are lots out there for around $40. > Bonus question!!!!!!!!!! > > Any reputable national brake places that can do this well at less cost, I > mean brakes are brakes right?????? Yes, but I would *never* trust my brakes to those monkeys. I watched the people at Just Brakes change the brakes on my brother's car, and they did an awful job. Sloppy work, got grease all over the rotors & used the "pump" method to bleed the brake fluid. Because they didn't even use a tube from the bleeder nipple, they sprayed fluid everywhere (including on the paint) every time they opened it up. Plus, their synchronization was off, introducing air into the system. Enough to make me retch! Hope this helps, and good luck, KC Boyce '97 M3/4
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#7. Re: Mid-Ohio this Weekend - from NSimon1111@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 08:17:18 -0400 From: NSimon1111@aol.com Subject: Re: Mid-Ohio this Weekend Yep, I'll be there. Going to meet up with my one lap buddy Woody Hair (who'll be instructing) Friday night. Will be my first time at the track and can't wait to get there! Neil Simon Wash, DC Imola Red '99 M Coupe
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#8. Re: [E36M3] need help with springs - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 06:12:44 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] need help with springs Bob- I use H&R OE Sports. They are fine on the street with Konis set soft and offer a nice improvement over stock. They will not lower your ride height much, or at all. They dropped my '97 M3/2 .25" in front and none in the rear. When I go to the track, I set my Konis fairly stiff. In fact, I leave mine that way all the time. Sorry, I don't have any info on the Dinan springs. Jay At 09:30 PM 9/24/03 -0500, you wrote: >Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2003 22:23:20 EDT >From: Mdriver13@aol.com >Subject: need help with springs > >Group, > >Does anyone know exactly what Dinan uses for their springs? Is it the Eibach >Pros or one of the H&R versions? This daily driver needs another upgrade to >become more competitive in SM. I have resisted changing the springs, but am >now going to go for it! I'm looking to improve my handling but only want to >compromise ride quality a little. So....what are the springs of choice for this >half-a$$ approach? > >TIA, > >Bob Gill >97 ///M3 coupe - got the Konis, the Eibach sways, X-brace, ... just no >springs ;-)) >Philly Region SCCA >BSP Champion '01 & '02
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#9. Re: [E36M3] need help with springs - from Bruce
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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 08:25:10 -0500 From: "Bruce" <gobuffs93@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] need help with springs I ordered the Track Line kit from TC Kline earlier this summer. After a few days they said the H&Rs weren't in stock and haven't been in over a year. They sent me a set of Vogtland springs. Bruce 95 M3 89 M3 2.5 > Of course this would mean buying two sets of H&R springs and paying $450! < > vbg> However, I think TC Kline does this mix and matching of H&R springs in > his suspension kits. I have a friend that bought TC Kline's "street" kit. It > definitely had mixed springs. > > So.... I would recommend calling TC Kline. Kline certainly knows a thing or > two about suspension tuning of BMW M3's. You could probably get a mixed set > of H&R springs for the standard $225 price - just tell Kline what you want.
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#10. How to tighten the front shock nut - from Chris Teague
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Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2003 07:07:50 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: How to tighten the front shock nut I just put on a new set of Koni coilovers last night. All the other times I have replaced the shocks before, it was easy to tighten the top nut. With these Koni's, I haven't been able to get them past finger snug without the staft spinning. I don't really want to hold the adjuster to avoid breaking or damaging, and I am hesitent to use an impact for the same reason. Any one else have any good ideas? The car clunks a lot when driving, and I am fairly sure it's because the nut is loose. Chris 97 M3/4