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#1. RE: Streetable Springs - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 16:11:17 -0400 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Streetable Springs I don't want to start a flame but here it goes: Stock front: 105lbs. Rears : 325lbs. There is no difference in the spring rate for either of the H&Rs (OE or Sport) besides just drop (which does affect handling since it reduces your center of gravity....but lets save that for next time). H&R: F- 200lbs, R-375lbs. I had used H&R Sports with Bilsteins on my 97. Not impressed. The ride was HARSH on the streets and the car seemed to understeer a bit at the track (turn in was not crisp). Called up Bilstein and they mentioned that their shocks for the M3 was matched to the Euro M3 spring rates therefore the front (with Bilstiens/H&R) was over damped (due to stiffer springs). According to the logic used (same thread) that stiffer springs up front increases understeer, made sense (in reality). Eibachs (don't know the rates off hand) are almost identical to Euro spring rates (spoke to their Tech-not sales-guy). On my 98, I got Eibach with Bilsteins and really like the way they feel on the street (not at all harsh but firm) and they perform pretty much the same as HR Sport. If somone were to tell me that HR sport is faster than Eibach by .5 sec at Limerock, I wouldn't believe them (they are probabally comprable in performance). But the street ride is definitely noticable between the two. I don't like the ricy lowered look (Eibach with Bils. = stock M3 ride height; however with Konis, you may expect them to lower your car a bit) so I am very happy with it. Hope this helps, Ahmad Lutfeali 98 M3/2 Green/Magma in Atlanta Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 09:31:22 -0400 (EDT) From: marc@plante.com Subject: RE: Streetable Springs H&R OE Sport Springs will lower your car 1/4-1/2" and stiffen the ride to 200lbs in front vs., I believe, 100 lbs for a stock M3. They're midly progressive which makes them comfortable enough on Washington DC streets, and they have worked very well as street/track combination springs on my 325i for the last 110k mi. I run them with the Konis dead center (3 of 5) car is nicely balanced, rotates very predictably on the track with enough push that I can rotate the car into some of the tighter decreasing radius turns with aggressive throttle work with confidence that the back won't completely snap around on me. (unless I'm on the skidpad and want it to). Marc Plante E36 325i, 214k Vienna, VA
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#2. Tranny Oil Pump - from Lew Becker
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Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 19:38:24 -0700 From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> Subject: Tranny Oil Pump Every time I changed my tranny fluid in the past, I used a hand pump (push down on a handle screwed/placed into/onto the top of the oil bottle, with a plastic hose run to the fill hole) to get the clean fluid in; and, it always a miserable job -- not much room under the car to pump, keep the hose in the fill hole, and keep the oil bottle from tipping while pumping. Ahhh ... but today, a revelation: went to Home Depot and bought a pump that runs off my cordless drill, fittings, and plastic hose. Put the intake hose in the oil bottle; the output hose in the fill hole; and pulled the trigger on the drill. Worked like a champ. (Also, every time I do this job, I amaze at how difficult it is to break the fill plug free. But, I don't go near the drain plug until the fill plug is good to go). Lew Becker
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#3. replacement seatbelt latch connector doesn't fit :( - from John Hovell
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Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 15:24:08 -0700 (PDT) From: John Hovell <jhovell@stanford.edu> Subject: replacement seatbelt latch connector doesn't fit :( All -- I ordered a driver's seatbelt latch from pacific BMW (part # 72 11 8 167 711), which is the part # Louie told me to order for a 1/95 build date '95 M3, to fix my SRS-light-on-for-90-seconds problem. My ETK CD shows this is the right part (the right side is part # 72 11 9 071 867 and has an "E" next to the part ??) but the mechanical bowden cable connector is different and doesn't fit into my seat. I'm thinking I could use a file and whittle down the connector to maybe fit, but I'm a little worried about doing so, especially since this is a safety part, and the design seems to be distinctly different, though possibly compatible. The electrical connector fits fine, and the part is otherwise identical to my old one. Has anyone run into this problem before, where the connector the give you is a different shape and is too large to fit into the slot on my seat designed to hold the bowden cable? Did I get the wrong part or is there another way to go about this task? My fingers are numb from trying to get this connector/fastener in place :(. I could post pictures of the two connectors if it would be of any assistance debugging this problem. Any help appreciated.... - John
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#4. RE: [E36M3] Tranny Oil Pump - from Dames, Mark
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Date: Sat, 27 Sep 2003 16:15:29 -0700 From: "Dames, Mark" <Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Tranny Oil Pump This would, I believe, come within the definition of "cheating". If god had meant for the below mentioned drill-pump to be used in the oil change ritual, he would have put them in Kragen stores, not Home Depot. This is akin to installing an escalator to climb Half Dome. You simply loose the esthetic experience. mark. -----Original Message----- From: Lew Becker [mailto:lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net] Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 7:40 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Tranny Oil Pump Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 19:38:24 -0700 From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> Subject: Tranny Oil Pump Every time I changed my tranny fluid in the past, I used a hand pump (push down on a handle screwed/placed into/onto the top of the oil bottle, with a plastic hose run to the fill hole) to get the clean fluid in; and, it always a miserable job -- not much room under the car to pump, keep the hose in the fill hole, and keep the oil bottle from tipping while pumping. Ahhh ... but today, a revelation: went to Home Depot and bought a pump that runs off my cordless drill, fittings, and plastic hose. Put the intake hose in the oil bottle; the output hose in the fill hole; and pulled the trigger on the drill. Worked like a champ. (Also, every time I do this job, I amaze at how difficult it is to break the fill plug free. But, I don't go near the drain plug until the fill plug is good to go). Lew Becker
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#5. What is ideal front to rear "rake" or height difference on M3 coupe - from Msebmwman@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 16:54:11 EDT From: Msebmwman@aol.com Subject: What is ideal front to rear "rake" or height difference on M3 coupe Ron has an interesting question. I don't know the answer but I have a follow-on question. What is the "ideal" rake for an E36M3 coupe from front to rear? In other words, when you measure from a specific point on the wheel through the 90 degree axis to the ground through that point to the fender lip, and do that measurement the same at both front and rear, what should be the ideal difference between front and rear. Should front be higher than rear by X amount? What do people aim for in a street driven car that sees the occasional track day and has non-stock springs and shocks? Thanks, Marc 95M3 From: "Ron Buchalski" Subject: Aftermarket Springs and Chassis Balance Since most aftermarket springs (non-coilover) tend to lower the front of the chassis more than the rear, doesn't this alter the front-rear balance of the chassis? BMW claims that they strive for 50/50 weight balance front/rear, but lowering the front more than the rear would put more weight on the front
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#6. Brakes - from Edward N Frank
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Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 17:57:43 -0400 From: "Edward N Frank" <enf@iglou.com> Subject: Brakes Doing yet more reseach into this DIY brakes deal I believe that I could in fact do them myself. I have done other vehicles but I worry about working on my M3. Fear I guess. I am really not equiped to do the job, I don't own a floor jack yet I have jack stands. I saw some kind of jack pad that maybe I should get. Anyway, If I went with all BMW parts from the dealer and had them change 4 rotors and pads and change the fluid I am looking at around $1000 If I buy the stuff myself all I really save is labor costs but end up spending money on the extra's to get the job done. Then the fact it will probably take me 2 hours more than it would them. Any encouraging words here? Lastly, Stock or next level? Do I gain anything spending a bit more and getting slotted and drilled rotors rather than sticking with stock ones? Longer life for pads and rotors or something like that? Other than stopping power? Thanks in advance! Ed Frank 97M3/4
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Brakes - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 15:24:13 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brakes Re: >If I buy the stuff myself all I really save is labor costs but end up >spending >money on the extra's to get the job done. Then the fact it will probably >take me >2 hours more than it would them. Any encouraging words here? I suspect you could save a lot more than labor if you're looking at typical dealer prices. A complete rebuild (new seals, rotors and pads) from aftermarket suppliers would cost you (parts-wise) only around $60 (caliper seals) + $250 (front and rear rotors) + $200 (pads). It's a potentially messy job, and you must be 100% sure of having done the seals right if you choose to replace them, but o/wise is pretty easy. Go for it! -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Re: Traffic Ticket - from Carey Probst
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Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 20:22:22 -0400 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Traffic Ticket Let's see 2 boys now gone one with a BMW 2002 then the 325e I just made into a track car. Maybe it was the quantity discount but the main thing is living where you can still buy a 2 acre building lot for about 50K in the best neighborhood. Luckily I get to live nowhere where it's cheap and make big city salary as long as I travel. Tough job but somebody has to do it. BTW, the BMW dealer locally only charges $89/hour for service as another point of reference. Carey -----Original Message----- From: Neil Maller [mailto:neil.maller@gte.net] Sent: Friday, September 26, 2003 9:41 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Re: Traffic Ticket Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2003 08:37:33 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Traffic Ticket on 9/26/03 8:10 AM, "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> wrote: > Probably depends a lot on where you live at what the lawyer charges. > > In small town upstate NY, mine charges me $125 to handle it, plus of course > the cost of whatever charge he negotiates it down to. If you live in the > real world it's probably higher. Yeah, but $125 is the rate with your high volume discount, right? <g> Neil 96 M3 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#9. Springs FS - from James Clay
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Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 22:42:08 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Springs FS We cleaned shop (a small part of it at least) this weekend and everything goes on ebay this week to get it out. Before these go up, I wanted to offer them to the group because they are absolutely perfect for the coilover kits a lot of members have. This is a BMW factory spring set used when testing setup on E36 performance suspensions. Each spring is two springs welded together for a progressive rate. They seem fairly stout, maybe 600 pound range. 60mm, would be a nice set of track springs for a PSS-9 kit or similar. $100. James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648
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#10. M3 stuff for sale (CAI, full set of seats, CD Changers, etc) - from Dave Spragg
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Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2003 23:33:27 -0400 From: "Dave Spragg" <david.spragg@comcast.net> Subject: M3 stuff for sale (CAI, full set of seats, CD Changers, etc) Hi All, Toys for sale... Once I get payment I will ship very quickly. I am well known in the northeast with the Bimmer guys but not beyond that except 3 or 4 guys I have sold or bought from. Currently the Instructor Registrar for Boston Chapter and you can check up on me. Conforti Cold air intake kit complete with instructions and all parts for 1996-1999 M3 at the very least. I think it fits pretty much any 6 cylinder E36 from 1992 - 1999 but I am not certain. I know it won't fit a lightweight as well as it should since they don't have the hood insulation (silly as that really weighs nothing worth talking about). Came out of my garage princess before it sold and looks like new (even though it was used) and is clean. $220 plus shipping 1995 spec CD Changer, some little scratches but works fine and looks ok $40 1999 spec CD Changer, looks like new, smells like new and was hardly used, came from Harmon Kardon setup 1999 M3 but I don't think that matters. $100 1995 M3 black leather seats, manual controls, heated, 2 vadar style fronts and rear bench stuff, passenger seat is a bit used looking but the drivers seat was never in the car (was Will Turner's track toy and I don't think Will fits in a stock seat with a helmet even now in his smaller form factor). The rear seats are in great shape too. Selling all this together... Won't break it up. You really need to come here and pick them up or be in a reasonable distance for me to bring them over (pizza may be charged for this service). $500 1995 M3 steering wheel with airbag, black (think that was the only color), great shape as it was never really in the car. $40 plus shipping One big box of MB Quart speakers, an amplifier, tons of monster cable, a huge kicker and all the rest of the 15 lbs or wire and such that made up this cars custom stereo before it was gutted and turned into a racer. $40 or free with either of the two CD Changers Dave Spragg Natick, MA dave@spragg.com 99 M3 street ( sold :( ) 92 318is #330 IP (95 M3 engine and suspension) 03 Toyota Tundra