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#1. Slightly OT - Drill Bits - from Wayne Miller
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Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 11:36:56 -0400 From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> Subject: Slightly OT - Drill Bits I am always helping people at my house with installs of various parts onto their M3's and inevitably I have to drill into metal. For doing the Koni inserts, I bought 3 super-duper drill bits at Home Depot and they worked much better than the regular Sears high speed steel bits. After last weekend when a friend broke one of my super-duper bits, I want to buy a set of the best drill bits that I can find to help with future installs. After looking around, I discovered that titanium-nitride coated bits are probably the best and I was looking at these: http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/IRW-63738.html . It is a nice set of 29 pieces for $131.55 and that was about the cheapest I could find for the set. Just out of curiosity, I checked out Harbor Freight and they have 115 piece set of titanium-nitride coated bits for $39.99 : http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=01611 .. Now I know that not all Harbor Freight equipment is top quality but does anyone have any experience with their drill bits? How could theirs be SO much cheaper? Are titanium-nitride coated bits the best for drilling into metal? Thanks, -Wayne
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Few questions regarding S/Cs and H&Rs... - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 08:54:21 -0700 From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Few questions regarding S/Cs and H&Rs... > The H&R coilovers are nice for the street. I've been > told by turner that they have the same rates as the > H&R lowering springs, Nope. The coilovers are stiffer than the OE Sport and Sport springs (which are identical rates) and softer than the race springs. They ride better than all of them, though. Some of the sport springs shipped with stiffer rear springs (same rate but different length) as the rear coilover springs. Part of the secret to the coilovers handling so well is the high front spring rates, lots of good camber control. -kit mpact motorsports
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#3. Paint for wheel match 95M3 - from GGray657@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 12:30:34 EDT From: GGray657@aol.com Subject: Paint for wheel match 95M3 Here is the paint I used to paint my wheels. It is from a Honda, 1987-1992 Noble Silver Met. I used diamont Base coat clear coat but you could use a non clear coat paint like a Eurathane. Diamont paint code is nh516m I will try and post a pic of them later. Gary
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Slightly OT - Drill Bits - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 09:30:36 -0700 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Slightly OT - Drill Bits >Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 11:36:56 -0400 >From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> >Subject: Slightly OT - Drill Bits > >I am always helping people at my house with installs of various parts >onto their M3's and inevitably I have to drill into metal. For doing the >Koni inserts, I bought 3 super-duper drill bits at Home Depot and they >worked much better than the regular Sears high speed steel bits. After >last weekend when a friend broke one of my super-duper bits, I want to >buy a set of the best drill bits that I can find to help with future >installs. After looking around, I discovered that titanium-nitride >coated bits are probably the best and I was looking at these: >http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/IRW-63738.html . It is a nice set >of 29 pieces for $131.55 and that was about the cheapest I could find >for the set. Just out of curiosity, I checked out Harbor Freight and >they have 115 piece set of titanium-nitride coated bits for $39.99 : >http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=01611 .. >Now I know that not all Harbor Freight equipment is top quality but does >anyone have any experience with their drill bits? How could theirs be SO >much cheaper? Are titanium-nitride coated bits the best for drilling >into metal? No, M42 Cobalt and similar are. Peruse the MSC Industrial Supply catalog / website for drill info, etc. Titanium Nitride is just an (ultimately abrasive) coating that they put on drills bits. Thickness of coating, strength and ductility of underlying bit, etc. are all factors that impact the "quality" of drill bits. By far, the most useful drill bits I stumbled upon for drilling into metal (and specifically, for removing frozen and broken bolts and studs) are MASONRY BITS! Why? Because they have wicked-hard cobalt tips, and are very ductile. You need to manually sharpen the tip to a knife edge (e.g. using a Dremel), and then they go through bolts like butter. YMMV. -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#5. RE: [E36M3] RE: Winter Tires - Need Suggestions - from Andrew - Taylor Autosport
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Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 14:50:42 -0400 From: "Andrew - Taylor Autosport" <astaylor@taylorautosport.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: Winter Tires - Need Suggestions > Based upon my experience I can't believe that anyone (with any > experience) would think that all season tires in any way come close to > the performance of dedicated snow tires on snow, wet, slush or ice. Which is why "all-season" tires are really NO-season tires. A.
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#6. E36M3 OVERHEATING - from HAROLDM3P@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 16:01:46 EDT From: HAROLDM3P@aol.com Subject: E36M3 OVERHEATING Got a problem. Had a '95 E36 3.0L M3 motor in a E30 chassis. Had over 20,000 track miles on the car - not a problem. Blew it up one day with the 3rd to 4th money shift. Replaced it with a '97 3.2L E36 motor, but kept the "3.0L" injection and manifold - this is the "sweet" way to go for horsepower. Had overheating problems - found the head gasket was bad. Professional replacement. Went thru the complete cooling system while they were at it. Now the car will "spike" overheat when I run it up to 6500 rpm before shifting. By spike, I mean that it will run fine for a while, but then overheat between turns on the track. Put in a Turner chip that supposedly was burned for this specific application. The 3.0L had a Turner chip in it also. Could the chip be making the engine lean out and overheat at higher RPM's ? Everything else looks great. Still has plenty of power. Any other ideas ? Signed, Frustrated in New Orleans Harold Petit , Jr. Harahan, La. 70123 cell# 504-915-1528 work # 504-733-1495 e-mail: haroldm3p@aol.com
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#7. RE: [E36M3] E36M3 OVERHEATING - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 15:30:28 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <jhowton@fotofab.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] E36M3 OVERHEATING My SWAG: Did you use the stock 3.0L fuel injectors or just the rest of the injection system? If so that could be the cause of a lean running engine, specially with the increased displacement of the 3.2 block. Stock injectors are different from the 3.0 to the 3.2 engine. I would suggest maybe the 24lb injectors that are commonly installed on higher HP E-36 cars might rule this out as a possibility. Regards Jamie Howton 2002 330i 1995 M3
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#8. Mobil 1 75/90 diff oil sources? - from Hunt Hodgetts
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Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 13:34:37 -0700 (PDT) From: Hunt Hodgetts <hhodgetts@yahoo.com> Subject: Mobil 1 75/90 diff oil sources? I'm getting ready to replace the manual transmission and differential fluids in my 97 M3 with Mobil 1 75/90 full synthetic gear oil. I found it at Pep Boys for $8.99 a quart!! Is anyone aware of a less expensive source? Hunt Hodgetts, Atlanta 97 M3 Coupe __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search http://shopping.yahoo.com
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#9. RE: Few questions regarding S/Cs and H&Rs.. - from Carl Stern
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Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 14:46:54 -0600 From: Carl Stern <Carl.Stern@xilinx.com> Subject: RE: Few questions regarding S/Cs and H&Rs.. If you are pretty sure you are going with a supercharger, don't waste money on any other intake/sw/cams. It is all different. In general, cam kits increase lift and/or duration and overlap to enable better cylinder fill at high rpms. Too much overlap can be counterproductive to supercharging. You don't want the charge being pushed out the exhaust. This can result in lower effective pressure, unburnt fuel into the cats, etc. Question: Anyone making a positive displacement supercharger kit for the M3? It seems they are all centrifigal, not really what I want. Carl Stern
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Few questions regarding S/Cs and H&Rs... - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2003 17:07:52 -0400 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Few questions regarding S/Cs and H&Rs... Re: [E36M3] Few questions regarding S/Cs and H&Rs... I would call James at Bimmerworld and discuss my goals with him. Based on that, he can suggest what setup (rates) would be right for you. I have a few friends who are very happy with his suggested setup. I wouldn't bother with the expense of adding the cam kit if you really want a supercharger. Just get the supercharger. -josh Josh, I wish I can have my cake and eat it too :P I have yet to find a supercharger that runs right (atleast on the track). If it's a street/autox car, supercharging should be 'just' OK. If you track it; cam kit is the way to go. Personally, if I had an option to modify my street only car, I would still go with the cam kit. Have owned 4 forced inducted autox (including Supra TT, RX7TT) in the past. It's a love/hate affair. Ahmad