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#1. knock sensor install problem... - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 09:58:27 -0400 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: knock sensor install problem... > There os a clip on the ICV hose fitting that engages the manifold and is > supposed to hold it in....but I hear they are fragile and easily > broken...perhaps yours is. Also, when I did my knock sensor install, I > lubed all the vacuum hose o-rings and gaskets with petrolium jelly to get a > better seal. Last...you remembered to hook the fuel pressure regulator hose > back up, right? Petroleum jelly is bad for rubber components (especially poor choice for items that are intended to be seals). I would recommend Dow Corning 111 Valve Lubricant & Sealant or possibly Ate brake caliper grease (which is compatible with metal and rubber parts). Using the wrong product could make the seal swell or shrink which could prematurely leak as a result. Regards, Rich
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#2. Re: Knock sensor install problem... - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 09:30:35 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Knock sensor install problem... on 10/16/03 11:23 PM, "Bruce" <gobuffs93@comcast.net> wrote: > Is it possible to change the brass nut type things that are embedded into > the manifold? Looks like they could be pulled out and then a new one > pressed in, but the ETK doesn't show a part number. Looking at my take-off (96, won't work for your 95) intake manifold, it appears that the brass bushings may be insert-molded; a couple of them have slight smears of plastic on the faces. If so they can't be replaced. Even if they were pressed in I doubt if that would be practical either. If you've stripped the thread in one of these bushings you can easily repair it with a Helicoil kit. These are inexpensive, reliable, and available at many auto parts stores. If the bushing is turning in the plastic material of the manifold then I don't think you can fix that in any easy way. One possibility might be to drill into the side of the bushing through the plastic, then insert a small pin to stop it from spinning. This wouldn't withstand a lot of tightening torque, but it shouldn't have to. Neil 96 M3
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#3. Re: [E36M3] T'Stat and Radiator - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 10:14:38 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] T'Stat and Radiator "jeff bjerke" <jbjerke@charter.net> wrote: > > 1) I ordered a t-stat and alumunim t-stat housing. The > t-stat has the rubber o-ring for a gasket. I also ordered > the housing gasket and expected a gasket in the shape of > the outer contour of the housing. Instead I received a > small gasket that fits around the opening adjacent to the > t'stat. Is there supposed to be another gasket that seals > the entire housing? The Bentley is not real clear on this. Jeff, I'm a little unclear on the description, but IIRC, my replacement t-stat came with both a round gasket that goes on the tip of the t-stat and an irregular polygon that seals the t-stat housing to the head. > 2) Are the radiators the same for automatic and manual > transmission cars? Yes, they are. > The Bentley indicates to remove trans lines (where applicable) > from the radiator. From my limited sight lines down the sides > of the radiator there doesn't appear to be any transmission > lines attached to the radiator. Just want to make sure prior > to taking everything apart. There is a secondary oil coil bolted to the front of the regular E36 radiator on slush-box cars. It's a bit of a PITA to bolt on/off. If you look at the new radiator, you will see four holes where the tranny cooler grid attaches to the radiator via four threaded u-clips that you will need to remove from the old radiator. alex f
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Brake rotors & pads - from Luis Rueda
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Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 11:18:05 -0400 From: "Luis Rueda" <Luis_Rueda@Interliant.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake rotors & pads Thanks a bunch to Chris & to all the others who responded to my email about the brakes on my '95 M3. Have a great wknd guys drive safely! Luis The first time I replaced my front rotors (around 70k) I decided to replace the stock Jurid pads with Pagids. Real nice bite, stops nice, but lots of sticky dust. Recently at around 135k, I did rotors at all four corners. This time I went with Hawk HPS pads, and have been very pleased. They don't have quite as much initial bite as the Pagids or Jurids, but have a nice progressive street feel. When you really bear down on them, they stop the car extremely well. Their best attribute is that they generate very little dust, and what little they do generate is easily cleaned off. Their only minor drawback might be that the initial braking effort seems a bit higher. I'll probably go with them again in the future. - Chris
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#5. Garage Sale: E36 M3 Stuff - from Riley, Scott
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Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 10:36:27 -0500 From: "Riley, Scott" <sriley@cardinalcapital.com> Subject: Garage Sale: E36 M3 Stuff In the process of moving everything out of my garage in order to build a new one (with a two-post lift!!), I came across a number of E36 M3 items that I no longer need. The majority of the parts are factory items that we removed from my '95 M3 with 20k miles during its conversion to a dedicated racecar. There are a few aftermarket items as well (at the bottom). Some of these items have definite value, others may not. All of the items that were removed from the car are in great condition. I can provide specific part #'s per ETK upon request. Please take a look at everything as no reasonable offer will be refused. FACTORY: A/C condenser A/C pusher fan A/C belt Set of rear "lower wishbones" aka control arms Complete set of amber lights including side markers Battery tray/cover Oil pan Jack Tranny brace Complete airbox including suction tube Diff cover with hardware Front tow hook cover (new) Battery Diff bushings Climate control module Center console (ashtray, cupholder, coinbox) Airbag (driver and passenger) Airbag control module (located under rear seat) Rearview mirror Lug wrench Center overhead light console Complete leather owner's manual handbook Delivery audio cassette Rear floor mats (black) AFTERMARKET: 2 Momo 15 mm steering wheel extensions with hardware (new in box) Steve D jackplate (used) H&R 30mm 5x120 hubcentric spacers (new in box) G2 RED caliper paint (new in box) Schroth harness with hardware (used) Z3 reinforcement rings (new) Euro rotors (4 pairs, all straight, hardly used prior to being outlawed in Stock class) Factory bra (new in box) Colgan bra (new in box-lower portion only) Euro oil cooler air duct Thanks, Scott Riley
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#6. reset brake lining message - 540 - from Scott M
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Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 08:53:18 -0700 From: Scott M <smlists@pacbell.net> Subject: reset brake lining message - 540 I finished the brake job on my '99 540iT, but when I drove it the check brake linings message was still there, and so was the brake light on the dash which indicates low fluid. New pads, fresh fluid - correct level. Must be a computer somewhere in the car that needs a reboot - anyone know how to reset the lights? Probably as simply as pulling the fuse to the 'puter that checks that stuff, not sure which one that would be. Anyone know? Also - does the M3 have brake pad warning check? I'm at 45K on the original pads - probably will be due sometime within the next year. Scott '99 540iT '98 M3/4
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#7. Re: [E36M3] reset brake lining message - 540 - from Scott M
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Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 09:06:36 -0700 From: Scott M <smlists@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] reset brake lining message - 540 Never mind. You have to put the key to start for ~30 seconds w/o starting the engine and it does a full systems check and resets items that are OK - reset both the fluid warning and the brake lining. Not sure if the M3 works the same way but that did the trick in a 540. Cool - now I can drive my M3 to work today and not worry about fixing those lights before handing the 540iT off to my wife for the weekend since I'm taking her Suburban. Scott on 10/17/03 9:03 AM, Scott M at smlists@pacbell.net wrote: > Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 08:53:18 -0700 > From: Scott M <smlists@pacbell.net> > Subject: reset brake lining message - 540 > > I finished the brake job on my '99 540iT, but when I drove it the check > brake linings message was still there, and so was the brake light on the > dash which indicates low fluid. New pads, fresh fluid - correct level. > Must be a computer somewhere in the car that needs a reboot - anyone know > how to reset the lights? Probably as simply as pulling the fuse to the > 'puter that checks that stuff, not sure which one that would be. > > Anyone know? > > Also - does the M3 have brake pad warning check? I'm at 45K on the original > pads - probably will be due sometime within the next year. > > Scott > '99 540iT > '98 M3/4 > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* >
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#8. RE: [E36M3] reset brake lining message - 540 - from Carey Probst
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Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 12:09:47 -0400 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: RE: [E36M3] reset brake lining message - 540 When you replaced the pads did you replace the sensor as well? The sensor (on the M3 and I assume the 540) is a single use item. Once it signals it needs to be replaced. Fluid warning could be a bad fluid level sensor or wire. I don't think there is a reset required but others may correct me. Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, '86 325e w/i cam BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced A well regulated militia being necessary to the security of a free State, the right of the people to keep and bear arms shall not be infringed. -----Original Message----- From: Scott M [mailto:smlists@pacbell.net] Sent: Friday, October 17, 2003 12:03 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] reset brake lining message - 540 Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 08:53:18 -0700 From: Scott M <smlists@pacbell.net> Subject: reset brake lining message - 540 I finished the brake job on my '99 540iT, but when I drove it the check brake linings message was still there, and so was the brake light on the dash which indicates low fluid. New pads, fresh fluid - correct level. Must be a computer somewhere in the car that needs a reboot - anyone know how to reset the lights? Probably as simply as pulling the fuse to the 'puter that checks that stuff, not sure which one that would be. Anyone know? Also - does the M3 have brake pad warning check? I'm at 45K on the original pads - probably will be due sometime within the next year. Scott '99 540iT '98 M3/4 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#9. Re: [E36M3] reset brake lining message - 540 - from NickG
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Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 12:11:04 -0400 From: "NickG" <nick@tech-nick.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] reset brake lining message - 540 You have to hold the brake pedal, turn on the ignition, and keep the brake pedal depressed to turn off the message. I did a short writeup of it on Bimmerforums. Do a search there on the subject with me as the author (NickG). Nick > I finished the brake job on my '99 540iT, but when I drove it the check > brake linings message was still there, and so was the brake light on the > dash which indicates low fluid. New pads, fresh fluid - correct level. > Must be a computer somewhere in the car that needs a reboot - anyone know > how to reset the lights? Probably as simply as pulling the fuse to the > 'puter that checks that stuff, not sure which one that would be.
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Rear Sway Bar Fixed, now a Diff question - from twisty M3
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Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2003 12:00:08 -0700 From: "twisty M3" <twistym3@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rear Sway Bar Fixed, now a Diff question Thanks to those of you who responded to my questions regarding the rear sway bar reinforcements. Turns out Becker Automotive Design (high-end SUV, etc customization--armor, entertainment systems, etc) is right next door to my office and a few of their techs jumped on the job and did a quick and thorough job at a *ridiculously* reasonable price. New question... Any time I've had to raise the entire rear of the car, I've use ONLY the diff. carrier and NOT the differential. I went over while these guys were working on my car and noticed they had jacked the rear up via the differential. Everything seems absolutely fine right now, but is there anything I should check or keep my eyes on? Thanks again, Jonathan L. _________________________________________________________________ Concerned that messages may bounce because your Hotmail account has exceeded its 2MB storage limit? Get Hotmail Extra Storage! http://join.msn.com/?PAGE=features/es