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#1. RE: Sears jack - from RonStygar@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 19:31:25 EDT From: RonStygar@aol.com Subject: RE: Sears jack Connect to: http://bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41605
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Idle surge after brisk stop? - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 17:15:45 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Idle surge after brisk stop? > Hi, Gang- > Any ideas why after a brisk stop (off ramp down to a stop light) the > engine would hover around 1k rpm for a few seconds before settling down > > to a steady .7-.8k ? It seems pretty repeatable, but is not > predictable, so I'm just fishing for WAG's. WAG? Yeah, I can do that :-) I've noticed this a few times as well, in the same sort of circumstances, and usually chalked it up to a misplaced foot (I usually have my foot straddle the brake & gas pedal, since "heel-n-toe" in normal for me now). But, thinking about it a bit (I've got time, I'm at work :-)), the brake booster/master cylinder uses engine vaccum to provide boost, right? Under high brake load, might not the engine/engine electronics bump or hold the RPMs up a bit to provide the braking force called upon? <shrug>. Cheers, Jim Bassett - providing WAGs to the E36M3 List? Apparently, time to go home :-)
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Headlights - from Shelhart2@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 22:19:28 EDT From: Shelhart2@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Headlights I installed the ZKW's (non hid) and have a noticeable improvement over stock. HID is over rated IMO. The kit was around $350 for both from UmNitza lighting. They are glass lenses so make certain to get the form fit stone guards as they make a difference. They look good and were simple to install. Shel
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Interior "Creaking" & Rear Shock Tower Brace - from Scott M
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Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 23:11:08 -0700 From: Scott M <smlists@pacbell.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Interior "Creaking" & Rear Shock Tower Brace Maybe it's time for the "big stereo" mod :-) I drove the 540iT to work today and marveled at how quiet that car is compared to my M3. But the wagon is not nearly as tight as a coupe with a trunk - couple rattles in the back get annoying at times. Until you crank up the tunes anyway ;-) Scott '98 M3/4 '99 540iT on 10/20/03 1:39 PM, jphillips at jon@maximumpc.com wrote: > Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 13:34:09 -0700 > From: jphillips <jon@maximumpc.com> > Subject: Interior "Creaking" & Rear Shock Tower Brace > > Hi listers, > > [This post is in reference to a 97 coupe with Koni SA shocks/struts, and > Dinan springs. There are questions at the bottom; please bear with me > during the lengthy set-up.] > > An annoying creaking/groaning noise located somewhere around the rear > passenger side window has gotten much, much worse lately. At first I > thought the noise was connected to the fake leather trim located directly > below the rear window, but I removed the entire trim and the noise is still > there. Likewise, I thought it was the trim around the B-pillar, but that > too has proven to be a red herring. > > So I had a friend sit in the back seat while I drove around, and his > diagnosis is that the source of the creaking is actually the body structure > itself. The creaking always occurs in low gears while accelerating or > decelerating: i.e., when I accelerate, it creaks; when I maintain a > constant speed it does not; when I slow down, it creaks again. The problem > does not even occur in 4th and 5th, suggesting that it only happens during > the application and removal of high torque loads on the rear axle. > > 1) Anyone else have this problem? Diagnosis? Cure? > 2) Does anyone have enough experience with rear shock tower braces to weigh > in on whether such a brace could fix this problem? > 3) Is my car falling apart? :) > > I drive it hard, and as my friend put it, "The basic E36 body structure > wasn't necessarily built for 240 pounds of torque, aftermarket suspensions, > and such aggresive driving." > > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* >
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Problems with pilot bearing removal - from Adam Kim
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Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 01:38:24 -0700 From: Adam Kim <adamkim@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Problems with pilot bearing removal Thanks for the advice, I finally got the pilot bearing out of there. I found a tool called a "blind hole puller" that worked perfectly. All the other pullers had jaws that were too big. I found it at the local Autozone. -adam
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#6. Additives required for warranty? - from Craig Perrin
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Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2020 10:43:28 +0000 From: Craig Perrin <cperrin@tampabay.rr.com> Subject: Additives required for warranty? I recently purchased a drivetrain warranty for $1200 (100,000 additional miles or 7 years with no deductible), which would take me to 192,000 miles. Yesterday I got a package with three bottles of additives for engine, transmission, and differential, with instructions that these products must be added to maintain the warranty. The bottles are labeled "Premium 2000 Plus" (I believe the name of the warranty) and "With Boron CLS Bond," plus various claims about prevention and performance. The engine now has fresh Mobil 1 10W-30, the tranny has Redline MT-90 (to quiet the ltw flywsheel), and the differential has Amsoil (don't know what weight). What are the potential benefits and dangers of adding these products? Frankly, I'm leery of additives in a well-maintained car that already runs sweet. BTW, the tranny additive is labeled for an automatic transmission, so I assume I wouldn't add that under any circumstances. Thanks for any advice, Craig 95 M3
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Additives required for warranty? - from DocWyte
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Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 05:05:44 -0700 (PDT) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Additives required for warranty? I sure as hell wouldn't run them! I'd also check the warranty policy to see if they wrote in there that you do. Any warranty co that makes you run additives in the car isn't one that I'd want to deal with. I just had a poor experience, the aftermarket co that had the warranty policy on my car went into liquidation, hope your warranty co is around for 7years/100,000 miles! -josh --- Craig Perrin <cperrin@tampabay.rr.com> wrote: > Date: Wed, 30 Dec 2020 10:43:28 +0000 > From: Craig Perrin <cperrin@tampabay.rr.com> > Subject: Additives required for warranty? > > I recently purchased a drivetrain warranty for $1200 > (100,000 additional > miles or 7 years with no deductible), which would > take me to 192,000 miles. > Yesterday I got a package with three bottles of > additives for engine, > transmission, and differential, with instructions > that these products must > be added to maintain the warranty. The bottles are > labeled "Premium 2000 > Plus" (I believe the name of the warranty) and "With > Boron CLS Bond," plus > various claims about prevention and performance. > > The engine now has fresh Mobil 1 10W-30, the tranny > has Redline MT-90 (to > quiet the ltw flywsheel), and the differential has > Amsoil (don't know what > weight). > > What are the potential benefits and dangers of > adding these products? > Frankly, I'm leery of additives in a well-maintained > car that already runs > sweet. > > BTW, the tranny additive is labeled for an automatic > transmission, so I > assume I wouldn't add that under any circumstances. > > Thanks for any advice, > > Craig > 95 M3 > > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > ===== __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? The New Yahoo! Shopping - with improved product search http://shopping.yahoo.com
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#8. Re: Battery - from Dave Kelley
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Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 09:39:04 -0400 From: "Dave Kelley" <d.kelley@usa.net> Subject: Re: Battery The only problem "was" the battery. There is no problem with the alternator or the gauges. People might be interested in their car's behavior if they drive with a completely dead battery. Bosche is a major name in automotive electronics. Surprised you haven't heard of them. p.s. I drove without lights because I was not sure if running the lights would cause a larger drain on the alternator and not allow the car to run. This was considering there was not enough power to run all the gauges. Besides, in Atlanta with all the stores and street lights, it is almost like daytime. Dave Kelley 98 M3/4 94 325i > > I was at Road Atlanta last month in my 98 M3 with the original > > battery. I ran all day Saturday with no problems, but when I got > > ready to leave and go home, battery was completely dead. I got a > > jump and then drove around Atlanta for 3 hours trying to find a > > battery, all the time never shutting off the car and even driving at > > night with no lights. > > Why would you drive at night without lights?? If driving with your > lights on was causing the car to die, your alternator (or the system) > is the culprit, not the battery. > > > Initially after the jump, all the dash electronics worked, but after > > awhile, things started going out, including the odometer. But the > > car still ran. > > Strange, possibly a short in the gauges? I know when I had a problem > with the alternator (wire was loose so the system wasn't charging...my > fault in that I didn't put a connector on the firewall together > correctly), the electronics in my 1989 325is would go out first and > shortly thereafter the car would die. Yours sounds like the car runs > and that just the electronics were intermittent. > > > I ended up at an AutoZone and got the last compatible Bosh battery > > that they had in stock. Had to put it in in the AutoZone parking lot > > in the dark. > > Bosh? Never heard of it. I see many battery replacements whenever I > stop at Autozone or Advance or Napa or wherever :-) > > > The car ran fine on Sunday at Road Atlanta and all is still well. > > So the gauges and dash electronics are working again? > > Regards, > > Rich >
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Re: autodimming rearview mirror - from George R Carr Jr
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Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 08:00:07 -0600 From: George R Carr Jr <georgercarrjr@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: autodimming rearview mirror >Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2003 19:02:52 EDT >From: KLchmn@aol.com >Subject: Re: autodimming rearview mirror > >I'm at a loss as to why anyone would want one of the autodimming mirrors. I >have two vehicles with this *feature* and all I can say is it sucks. It never >seems to dim at all so I'm constantly adjusting it to get it set right for >me. It is neither *auto* nor *dimming* for me. > >I guess I don't mind flipping the little lever on the mirror when driving at >night. My V1 is right next to the mirror so I'm usually muting a signal >anyway... > >Of course, most of the people I race with don't think I have a rearview >mirror in my car anyway or if I do, I don't look in it! > >YMMV. > >Kirk Lachman >Sin City Chapter >'95 M3 #21 I-stock >'96 Ford F350 CC Dually Diesel to tow above >'02 M3 >'03 330i w/perf package I've got the semi-auto-changing mirror in my M Roadster (came that way). Am I correct from the above post that there is a way to modify its behavior? It's ok, but never quite right. I'm not sold that it is the way to go. I like to know what's coming up behind me. -- =========================== georgercarrjr@earthlink.net
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#10. Re: Interior "Creaking" & Rear Shock Tower Brace - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 08:58:46 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Interior "Creaking" & Rear Shock Tower Brace on 10/20/03 6:39 PM, jphillips <jon@maximumpc.com> wrote: > So I had a friend sit in the back seat while I drove around, and his > diagnosis is that the source of the creaking is actually the body structure > itself. The creaking always occurs in low gears while accelerating or > decelerating: i.e., when I accelerate, it creaks; when I maintain a > constant speed it does not; when I slow down, it creaks again. Suspension-related noises can be difficult to track down. They tend to be transmitted through the body structure, appearing to come from somewhere else. That's why I've spent time in the trunk of a friend's 325i... However based on your symptoms the very first things you need to check are the rear trailing arm bearings and their mounting. I advise this because: 1) These are a known failure item 2) They are located in the area from which the noise appears to be coming 3) Consequences of undiagnosed failure can be severe. The RTABs handle all the braking and accelerating forces between the rear wheels and the car body. You'll need to unfasten the 3 bolts on each side that hold the RTAB carrier into the body and drop the forward end of the arm. (First mark the carrier for position.) Remove the pivot bolt and carrier. Put a large screwdriver through the inner sleeve and flex the rubber. If there's any sign of cracking in the rubber, replace the bushing. Now inspect the RTAB carrier mounting area in the car body. There are 3 internally threaded tubes which are welded to the sheet metal. Clean around the area and check for any cracking in the welds. Thread a mounting bolt part-way in, then try to flex it. Check for inappropriate movement. If the RTABs/mounting turn out to be OK, congratulations. Any other source of noise, while annoying, is more likely to be benign. Neil 96 M3
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#11. Re: More Hat swapping - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2003 08:58:42 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: More Hat swapping on 10/20/03 6:39 PM, Zachary Eyler-Walker <zwalker@cs.utk.edu> wrote: > Yes, it will increase the negative camber, but it's really the worst of > both worlds, as I understand it. You'll get more negative camber when > you're going in a straight line or a slow corner than you would have > otherwise, increasing wear on your tires, but when you actually want more > negative camber -- i.e., you're in a hard corner -- you won't have any > more than if you'd left the ride height stock. Depending on your roll > resistance, you might actually wind up with less negative camber than > you'd have with the car at stock height. The E36 suspension continues to gain negative camber throughout its possible travel, so no matter what you do to the static camber, you'll always have more under cornering. However note that this isn't really the objective, which is to end up with enough negative camber under cornering to counter the effects of body roll and tire rollover, thus keeping as much tread in contact with the road as possible. Static camber is of course what we have to put up with in order to achieve this. Neil 96 M3 - swapped hats, 3+ degrees negative camber