E36M3 #3456

Friday, October 31, 2003 07:40:37

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. need temp sensor position info - from NickG
#2. HIDs + euro ellipsoids - from Kit Wetzler
#3. my location - from Kit Wetzler
#4. Re: [E36M3] b pillar: was harnesses - from Bob Stommel
#5. Re: [E36M3] Wheel Weights, Balancing, etc. - from Chris Papademetrious
#6. Re: [E36M3] Koni SA setting... - from Mdriver13@aol.com
#7. Subject: My 1995 M3 "takes one for the team" and saves my life :( - from Mo Karamat
#8. RE: Sproings - from Butch Berney
#9. Koni Torque Question - from Johnny Lee
#10. 235/45/17 Yokohama AVS Intermediates - from Mark Greer

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#1. need temp sensor position info - from NickG
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Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 17:19:30 -0500 From: "NickG" <nick@tech-nick.net> Subject: need temp sensor position info Could somebody with an OBD1 engine help me out a bit......there are 2 coolant sensors mounted in the cylinder head, one black, one blue. I need to find out which one mounts in the front position, and which one in the rear position. Thanks, Nick

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#2. HIDs + euro ellipsoids - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 14:39:42 -0800 From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: HIDs + euro ellipsoids I have a set of HIDs and Euro Ellipsoids for sale. The Ellipsoid headlights are glass with a projector lens low beam, the internals and optics are all ZKW, and the outer housing and glass are made by DJ Auto. (sort of a synergy of parts that I put together, but they work great, the DJ Autos are exact ZKW copies) The HIDs are McCulloch brand, 4300K (about factory color) and use a very nice wiring harness. I'd really prefer to trade the whole setup for a set of stock headlights, so come to my place and I'll do the install and wiring. You'll drive away with a perfectly function HID system. The HIDs are only a few months old. $500 A few other parts for sale, prefer local buyers (near SF Bay area): JTD front strut brace, includes nuts. It's not in perfect shape, has some chips that have been touched up, etc. $275. JimC Carbon Fiber intake. Perfect Condition, used about 6 months or so. It's pretty, and includes the ITG filter oil. $300. -kit

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#3. my location - from Kit Wetzler
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Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 15:30:06 -0800 From: Kit Wetzler <kitwetzler@mindspring.com> Subject: my location oops. I'm in Santa Clara, CA, sorry for not including that with my post. -kit 97 m3/4 (for sale, $16.5K) 02 954rr (stolen, *Sigh*)

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#4. Re: [E36M3] b pillar: was harnesses - from Bob Stommel
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Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 19:09:08 -0500 From: Bob Stommel <rstommel@iquest.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] b pillar: was harnesses Yes. Thanks for catching that. Bob Stommel > > This is particularly critical for a long-legged driver. > >Bob, > >You mean "short"-legged driver don't you? If you are worried about the >roof crushing from the windshield back, then the farther away from the >windshield (i.e. longer legs) you sit the better. Right? > >Lowell Seaton [very short legs - 29 inch inseam] >'95 M3/2 >BMW CCA #131505

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#5. Re: [E36M3] Wheel Weights, Balancing, etc. - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 19:35:35 -0500 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Wheel Weights, Balancing, etc. You'll want to rebalance the wheels each time new tires go on. It is always normal practice to completely remove all weights before rebalancing a wheel. Chester's advice to remove them first before heading to a shop is a very good one, an one I should probably start doing. You can get a single-plane balance or a dual-plane balance. A single-plane is when all the weights are along the same plane of the wheel, ie - all inside or all outside. A dual-plane balance is when you have weights on the inside and outside, and is a more thorough balance. I explicitly specify a dual-plane balance using tape weights, with the front weights mounted just inside the spokes and *not* on the front lip of the wheel. Make sure you specify tape weights too. If you can find a place with a road-force balancing machine, that's even better. It will press the wheel/tire against a rotating drum to simulate a road surface, and measure the force variations from any irregularities in wheel/tire shape, then adjust the weight placement to account for it. It's important to inflate the tires to their final pressures (likely different front and rear, and don't forget to take your tires' directionality into account) for this process. - Chris

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#6. Re: [E36M3] Koni SA setting... - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 22:30:14 EST From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Koni SA setting... I set mine to full soft, front and rear. PA roads very, very bad. Crank fronts 1.5 turns and rear 2 full turns for autoxing. External adjustment the way to go. Hope that helps. Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA BSP Champion '01 & '02

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#7. Subject: My 1995 M3 "takes one for the team" and saves my life :( - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 22:42:24 -0500 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: Subject: My 1995 M3 "takes one for the team" and saves my life :( -------------------- 3 -------------------- Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2003 23:40:22 -0500 From: "Brian A. Marks" <brian@pfyc.com> Subject: My 1995 M3 "takes one for the team" and saves my life :( Brian, WOW.. Thank God your still alive. It is amazing how much damage a SUV can do to a car. If there is anything that I can do to help, please e-mail me... Best of luck recuperating! Mo

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#8. RE: Sproings - from Butch Berney
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Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 21:03:28 -0800 From: "Butch Berney" <butchberney@comcast.net> Subject: RE: Sproings >Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 11:35:49 -0800 >From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> >Subject: Sproings >...That brings me back to spring selection, rates and a progressive >versus linear nature. I'm running H&R OE Sports (with Koni SAs from the >TC Kline Streetline kit), and they feel a bit softer initially than the >original springs, which is why I'm contemplating swapping them with >something else. >I've been >thinking of the H&R Sport/Race mix since it was suggested on this list >and would address the softer feeling I'm getting in the rear now. I'd >like to go back to linear springs since I don't mind the compromise in >comfort and prefer a stiffer setup. Too soft. Man I can't imagine living with stiffer springs/shocks on an every day basis than my H&R Sports with Bilsteins. After three years of this, I am ready to pitch these things... >So. . . >1) Are the OEM springs linear in rate? >2) Are the H&R's progressive in the first inch or two of travel? >3) Are Eibach's linear or progressive? If they are an option, what >rates are recommended? Pretty much all the aftermarket and the OEM springs will be linear in the range they are used. The Eibach springs made for non-coilover struts are a lower rate than the H&R...I am pretty sure...so probably would not be what you are looking for. If you really want to be able to tune your spring rates, your best bet is to go to a shock that allows the use of 2.25 (2.50? http://ground-control.com/?D=ad2114ae1883465b67301f86e65198e6 ) ID springs. You will then have your choice of rates. Good luck! Butch

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#9. Koni Torque Question - from Johnny Lee
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Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 23:29:49 -0600 From: "Johnny Lee" <arionatof@comcast.net> Subject: Koni Torque Question <!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN"> <HTML> <HEAD> <TITLE>Koni Torque Question</TITLE> </HEAD> <BODY> <!-- Converted from text/rtf format --> <P><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Arial">Thanks everyone who gave me advice on the job and I think I am well armed with information for the most parts.  Hopefully the install will go smoothly other than the bump inside the strut housing I will most likely have file away.  I wished I read the Bentley manual earlier so I would save my front rotors replacement for this install since I will have to take the rotor out for the strut job.</FONT></P> <P><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Arial">I have another question regarding tightening the 22mm nut at the top of the shaft.  This is using the home made special tool.  If I use a crowfoot wrench attached to a torque wrench and then manage to keep the strut housing steady, would the right amount of torque have been apllied when the torque wrench reaches the specified torque setting?  Do I need to compensate for the crow wrench? Maybe this is trivial but it has been a while since my last physic class but as my professors always said, there are no stupid questions...</FONT></P> <P><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Arial">TIA,</FONT> </P> <P><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Arial">Johnny</FONT> </P> <P><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Arial">1998 M3/4</FONT> </P> <BR> <P><FONT SIZE=2 FACE="Arial"><A HREF="mailto:mclee@ieee.org">mailto:mclee@ieee.org</A> </FONT> </P> </BODY> </HTML>

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#10. 235/45/17 Yokohama AVS Intermediates - from Mark Greer
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Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 08:32:03 -0500 (EST) From: "Mark Greer" <mark.greer@excite.com> Subject: 235/45/17 Yokohama AVS Intermediates Remember when Tire Rack had these on closeout? Does anyone have two that they want to sell? If so, e-mail me. -- mark _______________________________________________ Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web!

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