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#1. [E36M3] Please change my email addy - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 05:56:45 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@cdsnet.net> Subject: [E36M3] Please change my email addy Suzy- Please change my e-mail address, effective immediately. Old: jwhud@cdsnet.net New: jwhud@budget.net Thanks - Jay (don't want to miss a minute of this scintilating repartee <g>)
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#2. Anyone have dyno for 3.0l w/ cams, Euro HFM, etc? - from AVUSM3@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 09:07:33 EST From: AVUSM3@aol.com Subject: Anyone have dyno for 3.0l w/ cams, Euro HFM, etc? Hi Folks - I was wondering if someone out there had a dyno graph (or data) for a 3.0l with cams, Euro HFM, intake, etc. I recently installed that combo on my 1995 and had some interesting results at the Dyno. I would like to compare data with someone else who has dyno'ed a similar setup. Torque was very good for a 3.0l - 218 ft-lbs. HP was a little lower than anticipated - 227 HP. I have a feeling that my VANOS may be timing incorrectly and I thought comparing the two dyno charts may help confirm that. Thanks, John Cloutier '95 M3
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#3. Re: Springs...was Sproings - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 09:31:27 -0500 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: Springs...was Sproings Chester, I guess you were in correct on Eibach Pro Kits being linear. They are not (ask me how I know ;) Steve, H&R OE and Sports (use the same rates, Sports lower the car more) are F: 200, R: 375 Stock rates are F: 105, R: 325s. I have used both Eibach Pro and H&R Sports on the street. I didn't like the H&R as they were too harsh (with Bilsteins). Love the Eibachs (will tell you a secret, the Eibachs are the closest thing to the Euro springs). A.L. -------------------- 9 -------------------- Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 15:41:11 -0800 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re: Springs...was Sproings Hi, Kim- Yes, James Clay mentioned that to me about a year ago, and I've wrapped betweem 3/4 and 1 coil on all four corners which helped a bit, but as Chester observed, they just feel too mushy overall, and I still get more wallow from the rear. Once I get a spring setup that I like, I can see still using this method for some fine tuning. I purchased a length of reinforced 1/2 i.d. rubber air hose and slit it lengthwise to fit over the coils, which I then secured with a dose of fiberglass strapping tape in the middle and on each end. That being said, and Chester adding that Eibach Pro's are linear and the stock rates are 100 F/ 300 R, what are comparable rates for the H&R's, or what is the consensus on rates for a good firm street setup, were one to use the Eibachs? Danke, Steve
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Koni Torque Question - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 10:55:03 -0500 From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Koni Torque Question Johnny, You do NOT have to remove the rotors to remove & replace the struts. I know the Bentley manual says to do it. All removing the rotot does is takes some weight off. You don't want the rotor & hub hanging by the brake line - it is hard on the brake line. What I do is use a coat hanger to tie up the rotor & hub while I have the strut off. As for adjusting the torque when you use a crowfoot, you are correct. The torque would be less I am guessing. This same situation occurs when you use an extension. However, the effect is small. Small enough to ignore anyway. You don't really need to tighten that top nut very much. It doesn't do anything except keep the shock's shaft from pulling out during rebound. There is a bigger concern with overtightening it. You should use either a self-locking nylon insert nut or a lock washer. In that case, the nut is not going to back off. Lowell Seaton '95 M3/2 - struts removed over 10 times Dallas, TX
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#5. Re: Kit's Euro Ellipsoid/HID kit - from Jason Lombard
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Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 07:59:59 -0800 (PST) From: Jason Lombard <jrlombard@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Kit's Euro Ellipsoid/HID kit Geez Kit, did your 954RR get stolen too? In addition to the 600RR? You gotta move man! :) Jason Lombard '95 M3 White/Black 5spd (w/ TSW Trophy Track wheels--purchased from Kit) > oops. I'm in Santa Clara, CA, sorry for not > including that with my post. > > -kit > 97 m3/4 (for sale, $16.5K) > 02 954rr (stolen, *Sigh*) __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Exclusive Video Premiere - Britney Spears http://launch.yahoo.com/promos/britneyspears/
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#6. Thank You !!! - from Newman, Christopher
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Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 11:36:53 -0500 From: "Newman, Christopher" <CNewman@LSAC.org> Subject: Thank You !!! I always send individual thank you messages to those who respond to my questions, but I just wanted to send an overall thank you to the list. The wealth of knowledge here is amazing, and I truly appreciate it. Cheers !!!
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#7. Protective jacket - from Newman, Christopher
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Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 11:43:37 -0500 From: "Newman, Christopher" <CNewman@LSAC.org> Subject: Protective jacket Various safety topics have been discussed recently. Perhaps an unusual question on an unusual day: Certain motorcycle jackets have protective armor in the elbows, shoulders, etc. Anyone wear their motorcycle jacket while driving their car, be it on the street, track, or autocross ? It's not a nomex driver's suit, but it seems most people wear street clothes at driver's schools and autocrosses anyway. Assuming it doesn't impede your movement or make you too hot, why not have the extra protection ? Any comments ?
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Koni Torque Question - from Murray Roblin
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Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 08:48:29 -0800 From: "Murray Roblin" <murray@farleyroblin.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Koni Torque Question > Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2003 23:29:49 -0600 From: "Johnny Lee" > Subject: Koni Torque Question > I have another question regarding tightening the 22mm nut at > the top of the shaft. This is using the home made special > tool. If I use a crowfoot wrench attached to a torque wrench > and then manage to keep the strut housing steady, would the > right amount of torque have been apllied when the torque > wrench reaches the specified torque setting? Do I need to > compensate for the crow wrench? Maybe this is trivial but it > has been a while since my last physic class but as my > professors always said, there are no stupid questions... > Johnny, If you have the crowsfoot pointed along the long axis of the torque wrench, you'll be applying more torque to the fastener than is registered on the wrench. However, this amount should be small if you're using a torque wrench with a long lever arm - it would be the ratio of (length of the wrench, middle of handle to center of square drive + the length of the crowsfoot, center of square drive to center of forks)/(length of wrench). I've always been taught to rotate the crowsfoot 90 degrees, so that it is perpendicular to the wrench's long axis to minimize this effect, but this is probably overkill. Make sure that you use a fresh locknut, either mechanical crimp or nylon insert. Murray
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Protective jacket - from Chester Wong
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Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 09:00:07 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Protective jacket The protective armor for motorcyclists protect against road rash, no? I don't think it would be any benefit driving around with these unless your passenger has really hairy arms and you're afraid your arm might come into contact with it ;) Chester --- "Newman, Christopher" <CNewman@LSAC.org> wrote: > Perhaps an unusual question on an unusual day: > Certain motorcycle jackets have protective armor in the elbows, shoulders, > etc. > Anyone wear their motorcycle jacket while driving their car, be it on the > street, track, or autocross ? > It's not a nomex driver's suit, but it seems most people wear street clothes > at driver's schools > and autocrosses anyway. Assuming it doesn't impede your movement or make > you too hot, > why not have the extra protection ? Any comments ? =====
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Protective jacket- bike gear in an auto - from Mount, Mike
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Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2003 09:09:11 -0800 From: "Mount, Mike" <JMMn@pge.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Protective jacket- bike gear in an auto Motorcycle gear is designed with basically 2 guidelines; 1. Protect the rider for the fall - basically a vertical fall of < 6 feet. That is the reason for both the hard and soft armor. 2. Protect the rider for the slide. Materials like leather and ballistic nylon are used for this purpose. An auto is designed to absorb a huge amount of force during an accident. No human could survive that amount of force and that is why motorcycle gear isn't designed to protect the rider from an impact by another auto, armco, bridge abutment, etc, but to allow them to get away from the bike and slow by friction and, hopefully, survive the tumble and road rash. Good motorcycle gear would impede movement in an auto as the jackets are designed to either have an internal back protector or allow for one and to protect the lower spine during a crash. Gloves are probably okay, the carbon fiber armor is ontop but then good gloves lock the ring and little fingers together to prevent a break. That might be cumbersome for some who use the shift techniques seen on some websites to prevent the dreaded misshifts. Knee sliders might feel weird, though I've seen many drivers and racers use pads for racing. Plus, there is that 'Power Ranger' thing going on too... Courses designed for motorcycle racing have much greater runoff than do auto courses. Areas that can't be moved are mitigated by use of an 'air fence' or similar device which is like a giant air bag. Auto course runoff areas are now being paved to allow the tyres to slow the car. A rider will keep sliding on pavement but slow sooner in a gravel trap. The result of this is the courses are moving away from one another in the area of design. Barber Motorsport was (IIRC) designed from the beginning with motorcycle racing in mind. Mike '95 M3 aka "Jehane" '01 Ducati 996 mono, aka "Belladonna" '01 Ducati 748R race bike, aka "Bellacita"