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#1. Re: [E36M3] Power side mirror inoperable - from Jason Knight
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Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 09:57:28 -0800 (PST) From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Power side mirror inoperable My apologies. I couldn't even get the Subject right. It's the mirror that is out, not the window. _______________________________________________ My driver's side mirror met with a gardener a few weeks back, and the power feature ceased to function after reattaching the mirror housing. Finding myself with more time than money, today I pulled the mirror housing off, pried off the glass, and disattached the power unit inside the mirror housing. Below is a link to a photo of the innards. My dilemma is that there appear to be five wires that need attaching (black white, brown, brown, and blue), and four attachment points (black, white, brown, and blue). There is one too many brown wires to attach. Bentley did not seem to have the specific info that I need regarding the wiring. Does anyone know what to do with the extra brown wire, which brown wire goes into the brown attachment point, or if I have completely missed the obvious? Thank you for any and all input. http://www.z28racergirl.com/images/drivermirror1.jpg Jason
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#2. WTB: E36 Radio - from RFKoby@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 03 Dec 2003 16:01:01 -0500 From: RFKoby@aol.com Subject: WTB: E36 Radio Hello folks, I am looking for a factory E36 radio, 92-95, can be from M3 or 325i(s,c). Must have radio codes with it.... let me know if any of you have one laying around from a racecar, or head unit swap, conversion. just bought a car with a Nackamichi CD unit in it and I want to return the car back to the stock unit, I am willing to trade.... bob
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#3. I want a 1995 M3 in White was (Re: Reference Only E36 95' Avus - from Rex Tener
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Date: Wed, 03 Dec 2003 13:39:58 -0800 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: I want a 1995 M3 in White was (Re: Reference Only E36 95' Avus Blue M3 w/66K for $7250.00) At 02:33 PM 12/3/2003 -0500, Robert Jackowitz wrote: >Actually, many agree that the late 1995 model year production were the best. >BMW fixed the valve-spring retainer issue in August 1995, I think. >The OBD1 3.0 liter engines were the most tunable with their larger intake >rails. Which is exactly what I am looking for. After putting 70K miles on my 4/95 production '95 M3 (sold to a list member) and 20K miles on my 6/96 production '96 M3 (which my wife bought new), I am going back to a '95 M3. I am looking for 1995 M3 with the following color combination: Alpine White Black Interior If it isn't that color scheme, then I am not interested. I would also like the car to have a: Cloth Interior Non-sunroof 1/95 production date or later No luxury package Other options don't really matter I do not want a M3 Lightweight. However, I know that combination is fairly rare, so I am willing to be flexible. Excellent condition, low miles, completely stock, and original owner are all pluses. If you refer me to the car that matches my description and I purchase it, I will pay you $250. I have already seached roadfly, autotrader, roundel, and cars.com for several months. I am just hoping someone knows of car like this sitting in someone's garage that would be willing to sell. I am located in the SF Bay Area, but I am willing to travel for the right car. Thanks, -- Rex Tener rex_tener@yahoo.com
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#4. RE:[E36M3] M-Cloth/Amaretta? - from Butch Berney
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Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 17:40:14 -0800 From: "Butch Berney" <butchberney@comcast.net> Subject: RE:[E36M3] M-Cloth/Amaretta? The BMW option is terribly expensive. Possibly a better option would be to purchase Ultrasuede (Alcantara for the US market) from http://www.gulffabrics.com and have an automotive upholsterer cover your seats. There are a couple of good threads about this at bimmerforums... http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=148288 http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?postid=1114911#post1114 911 Good luck! Butch
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#5. PARTS for SALE! - from cesar
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Date: Wed, 3 Dec 2003 23:54:49 -0500 From: "cesar" <cesar@cfl.rr.com> Subject: PARTS for SALE! Hello! I trade my 1998 2 doors M3 and the following items are for sale. New clear tail light (BMW Original) only two month old $195.00 New clear side markers l lights (BMW Original) only two month old $15.00 <http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=36110009839> ///M Logo Valve Stem Caps (Set of 4) (NEW) $10.00 <http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=E36X> E36 Motorsport X-brace all hardware included (6 month old perfect condition.) $95.00 <http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=82111469805-CHEC K> Genuine BMW M3 Floor Mats mint condition Black $75.00 NEW never install BMP Instrument console (BLACK) $85.00 MINT CONDITION A/D/S PH 30.2 amp include all hardware and user guide. 400.00 Shark Intake used only for 6 month mint condition (complete kit original BOX) $300.00 Original BMW heat shield (front) include storage bag 6 month old MINT condition $35.00 NEW PEAKE R5/srs reset tool $100.00 NEW PEAKE R5/fcx scan-reset tool $ 120.00 JT-Designs High Performance Front Strut Tower Brace, REDUCE PRICE $250.00 Beautiful NEW carbon fiber Original BMW steering wheel ($350.00 airbag not included) Pictures available upon request, I accept money order, personal check and PAYPAL. Thank You! Cesar Orlando FL Phone 407-761-0750 cesar@cfl.rr.com
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Replacing rear shock mounts - from E36M3 List
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Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 01:58:53 -0500 From: "E36M3 List" <e36m3-list@lostcluster.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Replacing rear shock mounts Well, I tried just about all the suggestions everyone had to offer and decided to replace the shocks. A bit early to do so with about 25K on them but after dremel-ing for an hour, it just wasn't worth it. Besides, I think finding someone on ebay with a set of stock 99 M3 shocks with allegedly only 5K miles on them for $56 had something to do with that decision. I put the eBay/stock shocks on today. There is noticeable less bounce going over some speedbumps by the school near me so I guess my Konis were starting to get tired. Plus, there's virtually no noise in the back too, even with the Ground Control RSMs. I heard they were a tad noisier but haven't experienced this yet. These shocks should last me until next spring when I can swap out the entire suspension. On that note, what does everyone think of Ground Control's Street/Track suspension kit? Thanks again everyone for all your advice... -----Original Message----- From: Jeremy Lucas [mailto:jlucas@columbus.rr.com] Posted At: Friday, November 28, 2003 4:40 PM Posted To: E36M3 List Conversation: [E36M3] Replacing rear shock mounts Subject: Re: [E36M3] Replacing rear shock mounts Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2003 16:36:30 -0500 From: "Jeremy Lucas" <jlucas@columbus.rr.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Replacing rear shock mounts Here's another good picture of what it's supposed to look like (not the cross section picture): http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/suspension/e36_replace_rear_shock_bushi ngs.html Perhaps someone forgot the supporting ring during assembly? Try some of Murray's suggestions but my guess is your going to have to cut off the RSM all the way down to the inner metal sleeve with dremel or similar . You can then make 2 slits in the sleeve, being careful not to nick the shock and get the sleeve weak enough to break or pull off with some vise grips. If your shock shaft has the inner allen key be vary careful about the load into that allen key as it will strip (same goes for assembly with your new shock mounts). BTW, are these worn out stock shocks (>30k miles), if so forget it and just replace them. Jeremy Lucas 95 M3 ----- Original Message ----- > Right now, I have both rear shocks removed from the car and the RSM > won't come off. ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#7. Won't idle, but runs okay.. - from Mark Greer
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Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 08:56:41 -0500 (EST) From: "Mark Greer" <mark.greer@excite.com> Subject: Won't idle, but runs okay.. The following has happened to me now 3 times in the past year... After starting cold engine I either shut it back off or stall it. Upon restart the engine won't hold idle; it dies. I must provide throttle input and then support idle manually. Once I drive 10-15 minutes everything returns to normal. Outside temp ranged from 80 - 35 F so it's not just the onset of winter. Do I have some sort of throttle position sensor issue? O2 sensor? 1997 M3 Sedan Mark Greer _______________________________________________ Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web!
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#8. 1995 E36 M3 Lightweight for sale: LA area - from Msebmwman@aol.com
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Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 09:54:59 EST From: Msebmwman@aol.com Subject: 1995 E36 M3 Lightweight for sale: LA area All; I still have my 1995 M3 LTW up for sale. I don't really need 2 1995 E36M3s in my garage. Please see information below. 1995 E36 M3 Lightweight for sale. Rare and beautiful car (only ~125 were made for US only). VIN: WBSBF9320SEH08047. Manufacture date 10/95. Third owner car since July, 1999. 35,xxx miles and in great condition. Second place finisher at LA BMW CCA clean car contest on April 27, 2003. California car for last 3.8 years, garaged and lovingly maintained by an enthusiast. All stock LTW motorsport parts are installed (adjustable front splitter, rear wing with risers, front strut tower brace, X-brace, GT dual-pickup oil pan). Stock LTW suspension, stock LTW intake and exhaust, stock wheels and spare, stock interior. Additional significant modifications include: TC Kline bolt-in rollbar, European M3 oil-cooler, gauge package, stereo, fire extinguisher, Momo non-airbag steering wheel, stainless steel brake lines, motorsport front rotors, Alpine alarm system. Also has metal impeller water pump and aluminum thermostat cover. New Redline motor oil, gearbox oil, rear differential oil, ATE Typ200 brake fluid replaced and extensive interior and exterior detailing less than 1000 miles ago. Full service history available to serious buyers. Buyer is responsible for arranging inspections and any shipping or transportation. Price: $ 34,500 or best reasonable offer. Seller: Marc Edwards Location: Granada Hills, California (LA area, San Fernando Valley) For more info and pics of this car: http://www.spgmotorsports.com/ltw/ Serious inquiries only please by e-mail please: msebmwman@aol.com
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#9. Diff recommendations for my 325e 3.46 or 3.73 - from Carey Probst
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Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 10:52:01 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <Carey.Probst@oracle.com> Subject: Diff recommendations for my 325e 3.46 or 3.73 I have completed the head swap and sway upgrades on the 325e and love the way it handles on the track. The only thing missing is power. I want to swap the differential for lower gears and want some advice. I'm thinking of either the 3.46 or 3.73 ratios. I've dedicated my '99 M3 for street duty (E36M3 content) and will be using the 325e for track, occasional local driving, and trips to the airport (about 30 miles) for business trips. With the Conforti chip, the rpms are about 5300. Is the 3.73 too deep for my use? TIA Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, '86 325e w/i cam BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced
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#10. Thule rack question - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 4 Dec 2003 12:27:57 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Thule rack question For those who have a Thule rack and installed it, are you supposed to tighten the bolt that pulls the anchor bar until the release levers on the feet are all the way down? For example, once you slide the feet onto the loading bar, you have to squeeze it two ratchet teeth to hold it in place. But when you get just two teeth, there's still a lot to go, but it seems awfully hard to get to that point..I don't want to overtighten...or worse yet, bend the sheet metal... TIA, Chester =====