E36M3 #3503

This digest contains the following messages:

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#1. Re: [E36M3] Mobil 1 - from Bruce
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Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 19:37:00 -0600
From: "Bruce" <gobuffs93@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [E36M3] Mobil 1

I recently sent some oil (Mobil 1) to Blackstone for analysis (74k mile 95
M3).  7500 miles since the last change.  Blackstone said the oil looked
great and I could increase the change interval if I wanted.

Bruce
95 M3
89 M3 2.5

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#2. RaceLogic traction control Install - from Frank & Kirsten
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Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 19:25:35 -0700
From: "Frank & Kirsten" <FranKirsten@msn.com>
Subject: RaceLogic traction control Install

Hello, recently I posted questions regarding wiring to install a
RaceLogic traction control system. Specifically in my 1995 M3. Anyway, I
finished the installation and thought I would give some insight for the
archives or whom ever is interested. 
The installation is very straight forward from RaceLogic, but the major
problem is tracing the BMW wiring because the Bentley manual does not
specifically address the 95 M3 wiring. You can get the 95 M3 ETK, but I
did not go this route. 
RaceLogic recommends installing the unit underneath the glove box, but I
opted to piggy-back it to the DME because I could splice in the fuel
injection cut-outs and power directly to the DME harness and have the
unit enclosed in the same compartment. This does make it difficult is
you want to hook the unit up to a laptop for fine tuning, but that can
be sorted out. I removed the fuel rail wiring covers so that I could
directly check and verify the fuel injection wires. I then ran the ABS
signal wires and the traction control adjustment controls through the
DME housing using grommets to keep from fraying the harnesses and down
the firewall through the rubber gasket that the alarm wiring goes
through. This has extra cut out areas for wiring, so its quite simple to
get the wire through. A fish tape or comparable tool will do the job
nicely. You have to drop the panel and remove the glove box to get to
the ABS brain and associated harness. This is where the wiring gets
totally out of control. You can read any wiring diagram you want, but it
will not get you the correct sensor wires because the are all BLACK up
to the ABS plug. So, you have to take apart the plug to trace through to
the correct colors. This is because the wires are actually two wires
inside a shielded wire housing. To add to the confusion, and to keep you
from just splicing the wires into the black ABS signal wires is the fact
that there are 5 of these wires. The correct four colors are outlined on
the RaceLogic information specific to BMW E36 M3 (where color and pin
number: green 45, white 46, yellow 47 and red 48). I have a picture of
this plug disassembled if anyone is interested, I will mail it to them.
Basically, it is a pretty straight forward and simple to install.

The system works great, and after driving it in the rain today, I'm
really impressed. You are not going to loop the car when it is turned on
the rain setting. The launch setting is fun.

If you have any questions, let me know.

Regards, Frank
1995 M3

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#3. Suspension "while-I'm-at-it"s... - from Som Naderi
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Date: Mon, 8 Dec 2003 23:29:23 -0800
From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com>
Subject: Suspension "while-I'm-at-it"s...

So I'm getting closer and closer to getting the H&R coil-overs for my 98 coupe. I'm hoping you all can help me out with coming up with a list of "while I'm at it"s...The car has 63k miles on it.  I'm essentially looking for a fairly complete list of the "little things".  The car is my daily driver that I take to track events.  I don't mind sacrificing ride quality for stiffness...

I'm wondering if some of the things I'm looking at are necessary and/or recommended... examples include: camber/caster plates, front/rear subframe reinforcement plates (looking at the ones from Turner), strut tower reinforcement plates, control arms/tie rods/trailing arms, any bushings or mounting or easy-adjustment hardware, etc.

Thanks for the help!

- Som
(just finished working on the safety crew at the 25 hour enduro at Thunderhill... hot-damn that was fun!)

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#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Clutch R&R - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 06:41:21 -0800
From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net>
Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Clutch R&R

Yep, the E36s have 'em too.  I removed mine a couple of months ago ('97
M3/2).  I noticed a little difference in clutch release when shifting.  It's
a good thing.

I honestly believe the delay valve causes premature clutch wear.  I put in a
new Sachs clutch about 2 years ago.  Maybe 20K miles or so.  It's already
getting slippy again.  And, I don't drag race or do burnouts or ride the
clutch.

Jay
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Greg Cagle" <gregc@gregcagle.com>
To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net>
Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 1:22 PM
Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Clutch R&R


> Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2003 13:14:59 -0800
> From: Greg Cagle <gregc@gregcagle.com>
> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Clutch R&R
>
> I thought the delay valve was new for the E46 - I've never
> heard of one on an E36 M3. Are you sure about this?
>
> - Greg
>
> JUSTIN GERRY wrote:
>
> > Date: Mon, 08 Dec 2003 14:49:00 -0500
> > From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com>
> > Subject: Re: Clutch R&R
> >
> > Have you removed your Clutch Delay Valve?
> >
> > Just curious, as it gives you all the symptoms of a worn/slipping
> > clutch.
> >
> > This applies to '96+ M3s only.
> >
> > -Justin
>
>
> -- 
> Greg Cagle
> gregc at gregcagle dot com

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#5. RE: [E36M3] Re: Clutch R&R - from K.C. Boyce
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Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 10:12:07 -0500
From: "K.C. Boyce" <kcb@abcgroup-inc.com>
Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Clutch R&R


Really?

I thought that BMW installed the clutch delay valve only on the E39.
Anyone else care to confirm?

Thanks,

   KC Boyce
   '97 M3/4

-----Original Message-----
From: JUSTIN GERRY [mailto:JGERRY@butchers.com] 
Sent: Monday, December 08, 2003 3:03 PM
To: E36M3
Subject: [E36M3] Re: Clutch R&R

Have you removed your Clutch Delay Valve?

Just curious, as it gives you all the symptoms of a worn/slipping
clutch.

This applies to '96+ M3s only.

-Justin

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#6. RE: [E36M3] Re: Clutch R&R - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 07:32:58 -0800 (PST)
From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Clutch R&R

Well, the fitting installed on '96+ E36s is not like the CDV on the E39.  From
what someone told me, the E39 one has a ball and spring and stuff.  The E36 one
is just a fitting that has a small pin-hole to allow the fluid through.  If
you're in your garage and the car is off and you stomp on the clutch pedal and
hear this squishing sound, it's from the valve.  I removed mine a few months
ago ('99 E36M3) and the squishing sound is gone and the pedal effort is
significantly reduced.  Also, with the CDV installed, I always wondered how
people could double clutch quickly because my foot would actually leave the
pedal.  Now the pedal comes back real quickly.

HTH,
Chester

--- "K.C. Boyce" <kcb@abcgroup-inc.com> wrote:
> Really?
> 
> I thought that BMW installed the clutch delay valve only on the E39.
> Anyone else care to confirm?


=====

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#7. RE: [E36M3] Re: Clutch R&R - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 10:08:41 -0600
From: "Jamie Howton" <jhowton@fotofab.com>
Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Clutch R&R

 

-----Original Message-----
From: K.C. Boyce [mailto:kcb@abcgroup-inc.com] 
<SNIP>
Really?

I thought that BMW installed the clutch delay valve only on the E39.
Anyone else care to confirm?
<SNIP>

Don't know anything about the E-39 but neither my E-36 M3 (95) nor my
E-46 330i have a clutch delay valve in spite of what has been stated to
the contrary.  I replaced the clutch slave cylinder on my 95 last winter
as part of my tranny seal R&R Clutch LTW flywheel project and there is
no CDV either called out in ETK or physically installed on the car.

I have looked for one on my 330i (02/02 build) also and the CDV pictured
on the UUC website doesn't exist on my car.

Just my $.02.

Regards

Jamie Howton

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#8. FS 17x7.5 M-Double Spoke "spare" - from driver8 ///M3
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Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 09:01:10 -0800 (PST)
From: driver8 ///M3 <driver8m3@yahoo.com>
Subject: FS 17x7.5 M-Double Spoke "spare"

used very little (<500 miles).  no blemishes.

russell

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#9. Oil Testing labs - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 12:01:52 -0500
From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com>
Subject: Oil Testing labs

> What's the purpose of testing engine oil?

Primarily, to determine the status of the oil (what wear elements are in the oil, the remaining anti-wear additives left, any potential contaminants) in order to determine a preventative maintenance routine based on the history and use of a vehicle (or motor, etc.).

> what can you do with that information?

Determine a cost-effective preventative maintenance routine or to highlight a potential problem before it worsens or shortens the life of a motor.  A cost-effective preventative maintenance routine typically includes extended drain intervals which allows for replacing the oil as needed at the end of its life.

> OK now you know that the oil contains too much of Iron or copper or any 
> other metal, what are you going to do? stop driving? Changing the camshaft? 
> rebuilding the engine?

For example, if the oil contains glycol, you might determine where it is leaking and, for example, may be able to install a new head gasket before you the gasket blows completely leaving you stranded or before it contaminates the oil so much that it prevents lubrication and proper cooling lunching your motor.

On a newer vehicle, it also may help with a warranty claim if you can isolate the problem such as bearings, etc.

Primarily though, it is done to determine the drain intervals.  This is particularly important in motors that use a higher quantity/more costly fluid and/or see continual use (thereby not allowing for as much down time for maintenance or particularly a rebuild).  For instance, in construction vehicles, this may allow a piece of equipment to be used 360 days a year while only allowing five days for regular maintenance and preventing break downs.  Time is money...

For your M3, it might allow you to pay $25 per test to find out that you can go 15k miles on your synthetic oil which costs you $65 for the fluid and $XX for labor, etc. rather than simply changing it every 3,000 miles.

> Or this is one of those type iof nformation that one doesn't need to know?

Ignorance is bliss.  Or you could just keep changing the oil every 3,000 miles...

> If this type of info is useful, then why not testing the transmission oil? 
> Or for that matter differential oil? what about the coolant?

All that is offered as well but typically these components are less expensive to replace and/or less prone to break down.

> maybe the air in the tires need to be tested too.

Come on, let's not get silly.  Everyone knows you just need to drain/replace your air every 3 months or 3,000 miles.

:-)

> Please correct me If i'm wrong.

How did I do?

Regards,

Rich

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#10. Z3/Roadster Parts for Sale - from chrisosborne1@adelphia.net
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Date: Tue, 9 Dec 2003 12:08:47 -0500
From: <chrisosborne1@adelphia.net>
Subject: Z3/Roadster Parts for Sale

Please post the following in your next publication.

Z3/Roadster parts: Clear side lamps (pair) $30, cockpit tonneau cover $48, hat $12, illuminated shift knob $90, wiper inserts (pair) $11. Chris: 703 726 0338 (evenings); chrisosborne1@adelphia.net (VA)

Thanks.....Chris Osborne
BMWCCA# 92573

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