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#1. Re: [E36M3] seeking suspension advice - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 23:28:06 EST From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] seeking suspension advice In a message dated 12/29/03 9:17:41 PM Eastern Standard Time, hhodgetts@yahoo.com writes: > I'm looking for improved handling without any > significant ride penalties. This is my daily driver > after all. > Hunt, I've recently taken a slightly different approach. I too use mine as a daily driver, but it also sees from 8 to 10 autox's a year. My recent move to SM has raised the bar and caused me to make a change for next year. My current set-up includes Koni SA on front and Koni DA rear. Having compression control is awesome, worth the money to stiffen the rear on demand. Besides the X-brace, Eibach sway bars, and strut braces, I recently added the TC Kline adjustable camber plates. I was going to add aftermarket springs, but I just did not want the ride to get any harsher. This coming summer will tell if that 3.5 degrees of negative camber helps...I think it will ;-)) Also, I have not noticed any change in ride quality with the Kline plates, and adjustment is a breeze. This approach was on the expensive side, but IMHO, the right choice with a daily driver. Good luck, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA BSP Champion '01 & '02 SM '03
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#2. re:Battery powered electric impact guns? - from AVUSM3@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 23:34:03 EST From: AVUSM3@aol.com Subject: re:Battery powered electric impact guns? Dave - Scott Shore and I have split a Milwaukee cordless Impact for a couple of years and we couldn't be more pleased with it. I think it cost a little less than the Snap-On unit (it was $300) and it is at least as good. Ours makes 240 ft-lbs torque and they now make a unit that does 325 ft-lbs! They are also good about standing behind their products (like Snap-On). Ours came with 2 batteries and a charger for that price. We bought ours at Minute Man tool in Exeter (you can avoid sales tax) - http://www.minutemantool.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD& Store_Code=MTR&Product_Code=mi9079-22&Category_Code=Impact-Wrenches Happy Hunting, John Cloutier 1995 M3 Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 15:50:09 -0500 From: "Dave Spragg" <davelist@spragg.com> Subject: Battery powered electric impact guns? I have used to Snap-On ones (both the pretty potent and killer versions) and have heard about Harbor Freight ones. The Snap-On ones work great and hold a charge for plenty long. Anyone had one of the cheaper ones for a while and care to report on it? Old-lazy-cheap folks like me would like to know. Dave Spragg dave@spragg.com 99 M3 street ( sold :( ) 92 318is #330 IP (95 M3 engine and suspension) 03 Toyota Tundra
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Track Tires part 2 - Size? - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 20:57:37 -0800 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Track Tires part 2 - Size? On Dec 30, 2003, at 7:11 AM, DocWyte wrote: > Heat cycling is good, I generally don't shave the > victos, esp if I'm using them for a track school. As > long as they're heat cycled they should last a long > time. You can blister full-tread Victos (I've done it). Per Kumho, it's unusual but can happen in very hot weather (100+ degrees ambient). I now shave them unless they're rains. > Unless Kumho has released the Victo in new sizes, the > only M3 sizes they make are 225-45-17 and 255-40-17. > The 255's will be a tough fit up front, more than > likely you'll have to use spacers and roll the rear > fenders. The 225's will fit fine and are actually > pretty wide... The 255's fit fine up front, as well as in the back, with some judicious fender rolling (recommendation: use a Haweka fender roller or equivalent). In the front you'll need 5mm spacers if using 9" rims. 8.5's may or may not require spacers. - Mark E36 325is JP/A5 #117, 255 Victos on Kosei K-1 Racing 17x8.5 ET38
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#4. [E36M3] Re: Any Sebring videos? - from DeBuhr
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Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 23:48:22 -0800 From: "DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> Subject: [E36M3] Re: Any Sebring videos? Go to: http://www.metricchemical.com/motorsport.html Lots of great in-car vids from Dave Farmer's world challenge corvette. These are full race videos. Sebring is at http://www.metricchemical.com/03sebring.ram Dave '98 M3/4 '00 C5 -----Original Message----- From: Vern Anderson [mailto:vernon_anderson@yahoo.com] Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2003 8:22 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Any Sebring videos? Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 23:10:46 -0500 From: "Vern Anderson" <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> Subject: Any Sebring videos? Anyone have any good Sebring videos? I'm running there for the first time in mid-January and I need to get up to speed on the track quickly. I have some very good track maps and good turn-by-turn descriptions, but I only have one video. I'll be running the 12-hour course. Moroso videos would also be appreciated as I'm planning to head there in Feb and/or March. Thanks! Vern Anderson
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: Any Sebring videos? - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 06:23:50 -0500 From: "Vern Anderson" <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Any Sebring videos? Thanks! That's an excellent video. Appreciate the link! Vern ----- Original Message ----- From: "DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> To: "Vern Anderson" <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com>; "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, December 31, 2003 2:48 AM Subject: [E36M3] Re: Any Sebring videos? > Go to: http://www.metricchemical.com/motorsport.html > > Lots of great in-car vids from Dave Farmer's world challenge corvette. > These are full race videos. Sebring is at > http://www.metricchemical.com/03sebring.ram > > Dave > '98 M3/4 > '00 C5 > > -----Original Message----- > From: Vern Anderson [mailto:vernon_anderson@yahoo.com] > Sent: Tuesday, December 30, 2003 8:22 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] Any Sebring videos? > > > Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 23:10:46 -0500 > From: "Vern Anderson" <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> > Subject: Any Sebring videos? > > Anyone have any good Sebring videos? I'm running there for the first time > in mid-January and I need to get up to speed on the track quickly. I have > some very good track maps and good turn-by-turn descriptions, but I only > have one video. I'll be running the 12-hour course. Moroso videos would > also be appreciated as I'm planning to head there in Feb and/or March. > Thanks! > > Vern Anderson
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#6. Re: Battery powered electric impact guns? - from Steve Lilley
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Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 07:54:43 -0500 From: Steve Lilley <m3steve@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: Battery powered electric impact guns? About two years ago, I got the Milwaukee 9079-22 18V Power-Plus 1/2" Impact Wrench Kit from Coastal Tools; it's currently priced at $289 including two 18V batteries. It's one of the best investments I've ever made. I previously had a 12V SnapOn Impact Wrench, which was a couple $$'s less, but not nearly as useful. The Milwaukee wasn't cheap, but it's worth it IMHO. Regards, Steve Dave Spragg asked: > I have used to Snap-On ones (both the pretty potent and killer versions) and > have heard about Harbor Freight ones. The Snap-On ones work great and hold a > charge for plenty long. Anyone had one of the cheaper ones for a while and > care to report on it? Old-lazy-cheap folks like me would like to know.
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#7. Re: Water pumps - from Chip Mitchell
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Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 08:25:39 -0500 From: Chip Mitchell <chipm@uga.edu> Subject: Re: Water pumps >I also recall someone mentioning that the Graf and Laso have crappy bearings/seals and the OE BMW part is a better part to go with? > >Rich FWIW, the water pump that suffered a bearing failure on me last Sunday was a Geba with about 25K miles on it. I replaced it temporarily with a used BMW pump with welded impeller, and I will likely get a new BMW pump instead of another aftermarket. ChipM
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#8. OT Range Rover Advice - from Martin Bullen
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Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 10:15:00 -0500 From: Martin Bullen <vze322dw@verizon.net> Subject: OT Range Rover Advice Anybody on the list with a Range Rover? If so I'm hoping for some advice: Thinking about a Range Rover (previous generation model, something in the 1997-1999 model years) as tow vehicle (part of a potential club racer project) and winter transportation. Any comments re suitability for application, 4.0 vs. 4.6 engine, and anything specific to look out for on R-R's of this vintage? Also, referrals to good Internet resources and lists? TIA, Martin Bullen '95 M3 '97 Z3 2.8
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Battery powered electric impact guns? - from Chris Teague
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Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 09:59:28 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Battery powered electric impact guns? Dave, Harbor Freight has a few different ones. I have this one: http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=46701 that I got on sale. It's rated to 220 ft-lbs. It has worked fine for everything I have used it on. I don't use it a lot, which is why I got the HF one, as opposed to the higher end ones. Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- Date: Tue, 30 Dec 2003 15:50:09 -0500 From: "Dave Spragg" <davelist@spragg.com> Subject: Battery powered electric impact guns? I have used to Snap-On ones (both the pretty potent and killer versions) and have heard about Harbor Freight ones. The Snap-On ones work great and hold a charge for plenty long. Anyone had one of the cheaper ones for a while and care to report on it? Old-lazy-cheap folks like me would like to know. Dave Spragg dave@spragg.com 99 M3 street ( sold :( ) 92 318is #330 IP (95 M3 engine and suspension) 03 Toyota Tundra
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#10. Re: [E36M3] ABS and DSC lights - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Wed, 31 Dec 2003 10:15:41 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] ABS and DSC lights At 10:29 AM 10/20/03, Jim Bassett wrote: >So, it doesn't appear to be the brake light switch. One of these days I >should really get off my lazy a$$ and clean the ABS wheel sensors. > >But, if anyone finds the real cause for this situation, it appears there >are be several of us interested in the fix. Well, it appears that the "anyone" is me :-) It took me getting info from my 2 local mechanics. The fault code that was getting set (that one code reader was returning "No Description") was "Brake pedal travel length". Apparently there's a pedal travel length switch/sensor in the brake booster, next to the master cylinder. This is what needs to be replaced. P/N 34 33 1 182 594 (list price $110.48) This is the repair kit which gets you the switch, o-ring, couple of circlips and several colored plastic end caps for the shaft of the switch. Access was a bit tight for me, I removed the vacuum hose from the intake, and the rubber boot from the air box to the throttle body so that I had a straighter path to the sensor. You'll need some circlip pliers and a screwdriver, I found, in order to remove the circlip (I still managed to break off a bit of the plastic on the brake booster that helps retain the circlip). Pump the brake pedal a few times to help release the pressure in the booster, unplug the connector and pull the switch out (there may still be some pressure, so be careful). Note the color of the plastic end cap of the old switch and install the same one on the new switch. Use the o-ring on the new switch. I didn't see one on the old one, and installed the new one without it at first. Vacuum leak resulted :-) Secure with new circlip, reconnect connector and any other items you may have removed and you're done. So far, so good. I replaced mine on Christmas Eve and I haven't had the ABS & ASC lights come on since (~500 miles). Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 - also got a new door lock actuator on Xmas Eve - Merry Christmas M3! 1992 325is #44 JP/A5