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#1. Re: [E36M3] stereo upgrade - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 07:01:20 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] stereo upgrade You are correct about the slightly degraded performance of an FM modulated signal. It'll only be as good as your FM receiver. XM is better than FM but not as good as CD. Understand that any major brand product you buy off the net will probably have no manufacturer's warranty. If you aren't sure, check the manufacturer's web site for warranty info. Most require that you have a receipt from an authorized dealer. I'd be leery of Nak products. We used to carry their line but dropped it because of all the defective returns. They went into Chap 11 about a year ago. Hard to say what will happen to the company. I have a CD-45Za in my car. I love it when it works. In the 3 years I've owned it, it's been replaced twice and repaired once. Quarts are very nice speakers. They have at least 3 different quality levels. Don't know which these are. They have a reputation for being screechy bright with poor midbass. I don't like them, but many do. If I were you, I'd try to spend some time listening to them. Sometimes, what sounds good at first wears on you after a while. JL amps are pretty good. I think the stealthboxes are a decent alternative to having a sealed box in your trunk (I have a pair of 10s). A little less expensive and take up less space. Don't need as much power. I'm not familiar with the sub adapters you mentioned. And, finding freeair woofers is very difficult these days. Many of the better known manufacturers don't offer them anymore. You can use all the factory speaker wiring for your setup. If you'd like some specific info on my system or have questions, feel free to e-mail me off line and I'll try to help. Or, call me at work...Progressive Audio, 541-776-2344, Tue-Sat, 9-5:30 left coast time. Jay > Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 17:50:22 -0500 > From: "Pat Kelly" <pkelly@agincourtcapital.com> > Subject: stereo upgrade > > OK, so my wife got me an XM car receiver for Xmas, but I would have to use > the FM tuner to use it, meaning that the "CD quality sound" would be > compromised, to say the least. > > So I started re-thinking the whole POS BMW/Alpine sound system (stock w/ > trunk-mounted CD changer on '95 M3). The local bling-bling store wanted > over $2200 (installed) for: > Nakamichi CD400 (head unit/single CD player) > MB Quart PCE 213 (front mid-range and tweet) > JL Audio 300/4 amp > JL Audio Stealth Boxes > +install kit, cable, etc. > > I started checking pricing these components and I can save big $$$ if I buy > 'em off the 'net and do the install myself. Here are my questions: > Am I crazy for thinking about it? > Can I use all the existing wiring? Speaker wiring only and replace the power > cables? > Any comment on the components (I kinda like 'em)? > Instead of Stealthboxes, how bout the "Scorpion speaker adaptors" > http://scorpion.makes.it/ > + 8" infinite baffle subs (I need a recommendation here)? > > Sorry for the long post, but I figured others might be in the same boat and > we haven't discussed this one in a while. > Pat Kelly
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#2. RE: Thermostat Replacement Instructions... - from Larry T
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Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2004 09:56:22 -0500 From: "Larry T" <ltrainsvt@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Thermostat Replacement Instructions... Dave, It's easy, but you need a few special tools to remove the fan clutch. You can buy the water pump holder from pelicanparts.com, and the 26mm wrench (or whatever size it is) from there, too, or you can get that wrench from sears for less cash. Once you get that off, remove the hose clamps and remove the hoses that connect to the thermostat housing (I hope you bought a new aluminum one, because the plastic ones shatter), then remove the 3 or 4 bolts holding on the housing. There's a couple on the underside you'll have to feel around for. Then just pull out the thermostat housing, and the thermostat will be inside of it, or stuck in the engine. Pull it out, and replace with the new one. Make sure you look at the arrow on the inside of the thermostat. It has to point straight up, otherwise it will not work. put the new gasket on the thermostat, and lube it with coolant. Put the housing back in, bolt it up, put the hoses back on, put the fan clutch back on, and you're done. Larry >-------------------- 9 -------------------- >Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 23:28:35 -0500 >From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> >Subject: Thermostat Replacement Instructions... > >Group, > >Does anyone have a good write up about how to change out the thermostat >on our cars? I have a 95 car that the thermostat has sometimes stuck in >the open position (car running very low temp) or operated normally. I >feel confident that it is the thermostat as I have a new radiator (last >summer) and the temperature gauge seems to operate correctly and >corresponds to the warmth of air from the heater when the gauge shows >the car running at normal temp. I have ordered the new thermostat and >have reviewed the procedure in Haynes manual and looks straight forward >but I was wondering if anyone has a good write up of their experience. > >Thanks for the help, > >Dave A >95 ///M3 "HI OFCR" > >Dave Arnold >If you want to go to the moon, climbing a tree gets you going in the >right direction, but building a rocket is probably a better approach. >- Unknown _________________________________________________________________ Expand your wine savvy — and get some great new recipes — at MSN Wine. http://wine.msn.com
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#3. Re: stereo upgrade - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2004 10:06:12 -0500 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: Re: stereo upgrade Depending on how picky you are... Inexpensive solution, but entirely liveable, especially when you have track days to budget for :) -Assuming you have the factory HK "upgrade" system. You can replace the head unit, which IS the weakest link in the system. You can get away with a new head unit with a good sound processor (my older JVC happens to have a built in BBE). Use a converter from a company like soundgate (common ground converter). That way you don't need to rewire all of your speakers. Otherwise if you do decide to replace the headunit and amp, you will have to rewire everything (BMW likes common ground systems). Not that hard, just very time consuming to do it RIGHT. - Get a 12V+ from the battery. You should be fine with 8ga, although some amps want 6ga. Again it depends on how powerful (and/or inefficient) the amps are. Use an inline fuse of appropriate rating (40a/50a) depending on your amp. You may need a terminal block if you decide to go with multiple amps. - You will need to run a pair (two or more pair depending on your amp/sub combination) of RCAs from front to rear. You don't need to go overkill here. - You also need to run a remote wire from front to rear, though you can use remote wire from the existing harness. - Run new speaker wire, 16ga is fine, you get under <1db loss (not audible) in the usual 10'-15' speaker runs in a car. Don't go overkill with speaker wire. - Get a butane soldering iron, flux, good set of crimpers/splicers, 3m super 33+ electrical tape, shrink tubing, and lots of zip ties. - Keep strong 12V+ (powerwire) away from the RCAs (or go with balanced line drivers with the RCA connectors). - You can run speaker wire/cd changer wiring next to RCAs without worry. - Securely mount your amps! Check out this page for basic car audio knowledge (includes things like enclosure calculators, loss calculators etc). http://www.bcae1.com/ Can't comment about the components because I've been out of the loop for far too long, but I still miss the days of Steven Mantz designed/Zed Audio built in the USA amps...... -Justin -- '76 02 '97 m3 bmw cca checkout http://www.bmw2002.net
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: stereo upgrade - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 07:27:16 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: stereo upgrade Justin, et al - No common ground used in E36s. Jay > Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2004 10:06:12 -0500 > From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> > Subject: Re: stereo upgrade > > Depending on how picky you are... > > Inexpensive solution, but entirely liveable, especially when you have > track days to budget for :) > -Assuming you have the factory HK "upgrade" system. You can replace the > head unit, which IS the weakest link in the system. You can get away > with a new head unit with a good sound processor (my older JVC happens > to have a built in BBE). Use a converter from a company like soundgate > (common ground converter). That way you don't need to rewire all of your > speakers. > > Otherwise if you do decide to replace the headunit and amp, you will > have to rewire everything (BMW likes common ground systems). Not that > hard, just very time consuming to do it RIGHT. > - Get a 12V+ from the battery. You should be fine with 8ga, although > some amps want 6ga. Again it depends on how powerful (and/or > inefficient) the amps are. Use an inline fuse of appropriate rating > (40a/50a) depending on your amp. You may need a terminal block if you > decide to go with multiple amps. > - You will need to run a pair (two or more pair depending on your > amp/sub combination) of RCAs from front to rear. You don't need to go > overkill here. > - You also need to run a remote wire from front to rear, though you can > use remote wire from the existing harness. > - Run new speaker wire, 16ga is fine, you get under <1db loss (not > audible) in the usual 10'-15' speaker runs in a car. Don't go overkill > with speaker wire. > - Get a butane soldering iron, flux, good set of crimpers/splicers, 3m > super 33+ electrical tape, shrink tubing, and lots of zip ties. > - Keep strong 12V+ (powerwire) away from the RCAs (or go with balanced > line drivers with the RCA connectors). > - You can run speaker wire/cd changer wiring next to RCAs without > worry. > - Securely mount your amps! > > Check out this page for basic car audio knowledge (includes things like > enclosure calculators, loss calculators etc). http://www.bcae1.com/ > > Can't comment about the components because I've been out of the loop > for far too long, but I still miss the days of Steven Mantz designed/Zed > Audio built in the USA amps...... > > -Justin > > -- > '76 02 > '97 m3 > bmw cca > checkout http://www.bmw2002.net >
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: stereo upgrade - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2004 11:50:03 -0500 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: stereo upgrade My bad... Its been 3+ years since I've touched the stereo. Must be getting it confused with the old E30 I had.... -Justin >>> "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> 01/07 10:27 AM >>> Justin, et al - No common ground used in E36s. Jay > Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2004 10:06:12 -0500 > From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> > Subject: Re: stereo upgrade > > Depending on how picky you are... > > Inexpensive solution, but entirely liveable, especially when you have > track days to budget for :) > -Assuming you have the factory HK "upgrade" system. You can replace the > head unit, which IS the weakest link in the system. You can get away > with a new head unit with a good sound processor (my older JVC happens > to have a built in BBE). Use a converter from a company like soundgate > (common ground converter). That way you don't need to rewire all of your > speakers. > > Otherwise if you do decide to replace the headunit and amp, you will > have to rewire everything (BMW likes common ground systems). Not that > hard, just very time consuming to do it RIGHT. > - Get a 12V+ from the battery. You should be fine with 8ga, although > some amps want 6ga. Again it depends on how powerful (and/or > inefficient) the amps are. Use an inline fuse of appropriate rating > (40a/50a) depending on your amp. You may need a terminal block if you > decide to go with multiple amps. > - You will need to run a pair (two or more pair depending on your > amp/sub combination) of RCAs from front to rear. You don't need to go > overkill here. > - You also need to run a remote wire from front to rear, though you can > use remote wire from the existing harness. > - Run new speaker wire, 16ga is fine, you get under <1db loss (not > audible) in the usual 10'-15' speaker runs in a car. Don't go overkill > with speaker wire. > - Get a butane soldering iron, flux, good set of crimpers/splicers, 3m > super 33+ electrical tape, shrink tubing, and lots of zip ties. > - Keep strong 12V+ (powerwire) away from the RCAs (or go with balanced > line drivers with the RCA connectors). > - You can run speaker wire/cd changer wiring next to RCAs without > worry. > - Securely mount your amps! > > Check out this page for basic car audio knowledge (includes things like > enclosure calculators, loss calculators etc). http://www.bcae1.com/ > > Can't comment about the components because I've been out of the loop > for far too long, but I still miss the days of Steven Mantz designed/Zed > Audio built in the USA amps...... > > -Justin > > -- > '76 02 > '97 m3 > bmw cca > checkout http://www.bmw2002.net >
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#6. Re:Thermostat Replacement Instructions... - from cardinar@bellsouth.net
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Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 20:16:19 +0000 From: <cardinar@bellsouth.net> Subject: Re:Thermostat Replacement Instructions... Dave, Just do a google search and you will find all kinds of info on this job. I did this job and the radiator/water pump back in the summer. Try Brett Anderson's site http://www.koalamotorsport.com/ I would suggest replacing the water pump at the same time if you have more than 50k on the installed one. The hardest part of the job is getting the fan pulley nut off. Good luck Rick '95 M3 > > From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> > Date: 2004/01/07 Wed AM 04:41:41 GMT > To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Subject: [E36M3] Thermostat Replacement Instructions... > > Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2004 23:28:35 -0500 > From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> > Subject: Thermostat Replacement Instructions... > > Group, > > Does anyone have a good write up about how to change out the thermostat > on our cars? I have a 95 car that the thermostat has sometimes stuck in > the open position (car running very low temp) or operated normally. I > feel confident that it is the thermostat as I have a new radiator (last > summer) and the temperature gauge seems to operate correctly and > corresponds to the warmth of air from the heater when the gauge shows > the car running at normal temp. I have ordered the new thermostat and > have reviewed the procedure in Haynes manual and looks straight forward > but I was wondering if anyone has a good write up of their experience. > > Thanks for the help, > > Dave A > 95 ///M3 "HI OFCR" > > > >
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#7. No more track over-revs! - from James Clay
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Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2004 18:20:37 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: No more track over-revs! We are going to be introducing an engine stabilizer in the next month or so and I wanted to gauge interest. The current problem is that BMW decided to put the transmission mounts for the E36 much too close together and at the back of the transmission, adding minimal additional lateral support to the drivetrain assembly. Upgraded engine mounts are not a great fix inherently due to the mount location, but the best available right now. The Bimmerworld Driveline Stabilizer will be the perfect solution for tracked cars. We started working on this when we had repeated damage to our race headers that ran about an inch from the framerail - the engine was moving enough to actually hit with enough force to dimple these 1/4"+. Even with heavy trans mounts, I can grab the engine of a car and move it 1"+ and I am not turn 1 at VIR… With the Driveline Stabilizer in place, the engine doesn't move with any pushing I can do. We are not going to release full details until the product is released, but a small amount of welding will be required - in a location that is easy to prep and get to though. Who would be interested at the kit price of about $200? Anyone think this is way too much? Not that it can be done cheaper the way we have designed it - the other choice is not to make it. Please email me if you can offer some input. Thanks! James James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648
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#8. WTT: AA gen3 for Supersprint exhaust - from Jonathan Vitolo
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Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 06:01:47 -0800 (PST) From: Jonathan Vitolo <jvitolo27@yahoo.com> Subject: WTT: AA gen3 for Supersprint exhaust Would like to trade my AA gen3 exhaust(has ~14k mi) for a stainless Supersprint with straight tips. Anyone out there interested? LMK, thanks Jonathan JVitolo27@yahoo.com __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus
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#9. wet weather tire - from Hunt Hodgetts
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Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 12:02:59 -0800 (PST) From: Hunt Hodgetts <hhodgetts@yahoo.com> Subject: wet weather tire I have been running Kumho Ecsta MX's on my 97 M3 Coupe because they have fantastic dry weather traction, are quiet, and are cheap. A friend with a 97 M3 Coupe likes to push it in the rain. What are the top wet weather traction tires? ===== Hunt Hodgetts (404) 644-6020 Wholesale Auto Broker Atlanta, GA __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus
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#10. Calipers and Lap Belts - from Ragnar
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Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 14:59:33 -0800 From: Ragnar <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Calipers and Lap Belts Hi, Gang- As far as the AutoZone calipers for our cars, was there a specific make listed for them? Searching their site shows Fenco remanufactured and ARI calipers. I'm opting for a spare set so I can rebuild my fronts, so any info is helpful. Also, with respect to a Simpson clip-in lap belt, where does one find the mounting hardware? Thanks in advance, Steve
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#11. Euro 6 Speed Transmission - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2004 16:23:25 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Euro 6 Speed Transmission I know some of you have done the euro E36 M3 6 speed transmission conversion. I had a couple of questions (yes, I looked in the archives but was unable to find anything relevant): - How much does the transmission typically cost (new and/or used)? - What other parts are involved (driveshaft, tranny brace, etc.)? - Is there any need to change flywheel or clutch? I don't believe so, just checking. - How difficult is the conversion? Thanks in advance. Regards, Rich
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#12. Seat Heater Replacement - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 17:49:37 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Seat Heater Replacement My driver side seat heater has been replaced twice before (passenger side once) both times under warranty. The most recent replacement has lasted 30K miles or so, but now my butt's cold again (more than you wanted to know...). So, two questions: a) Best online DIY instructions? ii) Has anyone tried aftermarket heater elements instead? As I recall this is a time consuming job, so I'm not going to pay someone else to do it. Can't say I'm looking forward to messing with it myself though. Neil 96 M3
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#13. Brake Circuity Failure?? - from Nickerson, Joe
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Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 08:41:09 -0500 From: "Nickerson, Joe" <joe.nickerson@lmco.com> Subject: Brake Circuity Failure?? Hey everyone, my OBC reads "Brake light circuit Failure". So I said ok no problem, just need to swap out a light. Had someone hold the pedal so I could see which one it was. Turns out they are all fine, even the one in spoiler. So what gives, anyone have an idea of what I should do now?? Thanks, Joe
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#14. Brake like circuit failure - from Nickerson, Joe
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Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2004 11:06:29 -0500 From: "Nickerson, Joe" <joe.nickerson@lmco.com> Subject: Brake like circuit failure Damn, just answered my own question by looking in the archives, sorry for not checking first! Thanks, Joe
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#15. [99 M3] Nokian H2 Winter Tires? - from Tom Voloshin
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Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 10:00:34 -0800 (PST) From: Tom Voloshin <tvoloshin@yahoo.com> Subject: [99 M3] Nokian H2 Winter Tires? All, Does anybody know if 16" steel rims will clear the calipers and fit on my US 99 M3 (2 door coupe)? A friend of mine has a 93 325is and has used Nokian Hakkapeliitta (and now Hakkapeliitta 2) tires for the past 10 winters and absolutely swears by them. He says that he can get 3 to 4 seasons out of a set of 4 before having to replace. I was looking at their 205/55/16 H2 tires. That gets me within less than 1% of my stock size -- close enough. What is the mm offset for the bolt pattern on my 99 M3? Thanks in advance for your time and help. Have a great day! Tom __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus
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#16. Temperature gauge scenario - from Newman, Christopher
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Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 13:33:31 -0500 From: "Newman, Christopher" <CNewman@LSAC.org> Subject: Temperature gauge scenario Hello, Suppose it's 30 degrees F outside and you drive your M3 for about a half hour at a moderate pace, seemingly enough for the engine to warm up. The temperature gauge points straight up. You turn the car off for about 10 minutes, then return and restart the car. Upon restart, would the engine still be warm enough that the temperature gauge would return to pointing straight up ? Or would 30 degrees for 10 minutes cool the engine down enough that the gauge would read slightly above the blue/cold mark ? Is this a symptom of a failing water pump, a faulty coolant sensor, or does it sound about normal ? Thanks for any thoughts.
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#17. Window motor issue - from Jason Knight
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Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 11:07:53 -0800 (PST) From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> Subject: Window motor issue My passenger window will no longer roll down. When I push the switch I hear a slight click, which sounds like the motor trying to function, but no activity. The same sound is heard when I push the small "switch" on the passenger door latch that activates the automatic window up/down when the door is opened and closed. I have swapped driver and passenger switches, and the issue is definitely with the passenger side. Searching the archives I found this: "It seems that if you run the motor to it's furthest extent you can "lock up" a window motor unit and all it will do is click." The above sounds like my issue precisely. Is there a way to correct this issue, or should I head out to get a new window motor. And is swapping the window motor as detailed as Bentley seems to indicate, or is there some short cut? Thanks for any input. Jason
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#18. ABS/ASC Dash Lights fixed finally!!! - from mtzenz@excite.com
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Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 15:03:57 -0500 (EST) From: "mtzenz@excite.com" <mtzenz@excite.com> Subject: ABS/ASC Dash Lights fixed finally!!! For all the E36 M3 owners with their ABS/ASC dash lights coming on, there seems to be a fix. My mechanic, Ramon at Bavarian Motorsport in Milpitas, CA, replaced the Brake Pedal Travel Sensor (PN 34-33-1-182-594) and I have not had these lights come on. Before having this part replaced, the dashboard lights were coming on everyother day. Hope this helps others..... Mark _______________________________________________ Join Excite! - http://www.excite.com The most personalized portal on the Web!
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#19. '95 M3 67K Miles, 5spd. Blue Ebay - from eevans@planetc.com
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Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 10:48:45 -0500 From: eevans@planetc.com Subject: '95 M3 67K Miles, 5spd. Blue Ebay Gruppe, I really need to sell this car and wanted the SIG members to at least know it's for sale, sorry for the cross post and thanks for the BW. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2452732719&category=6131 Evan Evans President <http://www.smokymtnbmwcca.org/>Smoky Mountain BMW CCA Knoxville, TN 865-694-3088
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#20. Bimmerparsts and Replacementautoparts - from Carey Probst
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Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2004 10:51:38 -0500 From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> Subject: Bimmerparsts and Replacementautoparts Does anyone know if these sites are the same? Very similar but the replacementautoparts site has slightly lover prices, same shipping and return policies, and the 800 number is only 1 different from Bimmerparts. Figure if they are the same, buy from the cheaper of the 2. TIA Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, '86 325e w/i cam BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced