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#1. Sears Jacks Revisited - from Edward N Frank
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Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 23:55:39 -0500 From: "Edward N Frank" <enf@iglou.com> Subject: Sears Jacks Revisited I remember a thread awhile ago about craftsman jacks. While I was at Sears I found a Craftsman 3 1/2 ton jack with two stands for $149.99. I didn't need the stands and found just the jack only for $129.99. Couldn't get them to deal on the jack alone as it appeared to be a return item so I figured I would get a better deal on the Jack & Stands. When they punched in the numbers it came up $99.95 plus tax, I had them punch it in again and the same thing happened. $105 total. So I bought it. So I just wanted to pass on, the Sears in Louisville may have a decent deal on jacks if you live close. I also wanted to ask if the jack pads that I have seen for $25 or so are any good and if they are recommended for lifting the E36? Ed Frank 97 M3/4
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Injector cleaning service? - from Chris Salter
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Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 21:06:46 -0800 (PST) From: Chris Salter <errsomeone@yahoo.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Injector cleaning service? I can recommend RC Engineering. They rebuilt and cleaned the injectors in my race car. I got their name from a race car fabrication shop. > 1) how many miles on the car when the cleaning was > done? '93 BMW 325i ~140k > 2) any measured discrepancies in the flow rates of > the injectors at that > mileage when dirty? Small amount, but cannot remember the rates off the top of my head. The spray patterns were not all desired, though. > 3) the corrected flow rates after cleaning? Much better flow rates were achieved after work, but again cannot remember the exact rates. I do remember that they exceeded specified numbers. > 4) any observations about mileage or performance > after the cleaning? Couldnt say since before it was a street car and after it was a race car only. Sorry for not being able to cite specific numbers. -Chris Salter __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Hotjobs: Enter the "Signing Bonus" Sweepstakes http://hotjobs.sweepstakes.yahoo.com/signingbonus
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#3. Re: Wanted: Adjustable rear sway bar greater than 22 mm size - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 07:15:20 -0500 From: "Vern Anderson" <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Wanted: Adjustable rear sway bar greater than 22 mm size Marc, I have a rear Eibach swaybar that I'm not using anymore, I think it's a 24mm, 2-position adjustable. I wanted a softer one, so I installed an RD bar. The bar is located in Pittsburgh, I don't have any pics of it right now. Contact me off-list if you're interested. Not sure about clearing the exhaust, mine has an aftermarket exhaust which is much smaller than stock, so clearance was never a problem. Vern Anderson 98 M3 -------------------- 4 -------------------- Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2004 02:24:40 EST From: Msebmwman@aol.com Subject: Wanted: Adjustable rear sway bar greater than 22 mm size All; Anyone here have a rear sway bar for an E36M3 that they would like to get rid of? I need a size greater than 22 mm, preferably in the 24-25 mm range and adjustable with at least 2 holes on each end. Lightly used bushings would be nice. End links are not needed. A sway bar that clears the exhaust when the rear of the car is off the ground would be nice as well. Thanks, Marc 95 M3 looking for rear sway
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#4. Outside hose water filters - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 10:06:13 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Outside hose water filters > Ok so anal as I am about keeping my car clean and never getting touched by rain, > a friend brought up a good question. There are apparently deposits in regular > tap water that could mar paint surface. Has anyone tried using a brita/Pur tap > extension for a hose? That isn't happening. You clearly never used one of these types of filters (I have had them for years). The water comes out much slower (like 10%) than the normal pressure. They get slower over time as the filter fills until it is so painfully slow, you swap for a new filter. Washing you car would take 5 hours and would use one new filter each time... ;-) > Or has anyone done a larger indoor water purifier linked to the outside? I haven't, but there are many people how have reverse osmosis whole house systems and the like that would work. Regards, Rich
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#5. Injector cleaning service? - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 10:16:50 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Injector cleaning service? > Can you folks who have done the injector cleaning thing follow up with more > info: > 1) how many miles on the car when the cleaning was done? I did my 1989 325is at around 125k miles (IIRC) and my 1990 325is at 80k miles. I would bet that I was the first to remove the injectors from either car. > 2) any measured discrepancies in the flow rates of the injectors at that > mileage when dirty? Sure, I have a chart that compares the two (flow rates before and after), let me know if you are interested in it (it is in Excel). The flow rates were well within factory spec before cleaning (the factory spec is something like 5% within each other) but they were nearly perfectly matched after cleaning. Also, they come back with cleaned and freshly painted bodies, new pintle caps, new seals, etc. > 3) the corrected flow rates after cleaning? See above. There are two measurements, static flow and dynamic flow. > 4) any observations about mileage or performance after the cleaning? I can not attribute any difference to just having the injectors cleaned as I also did a lot of other work at the same time (all new gaskets on the intake and exhaust side, etc.). But, it is very reasonably priced and you know exactly what the story is with your injectors then. Also, I keep hearing people mentioning balancing. Typically, the set of injectors you send in are cleaned. If they match (or are balanced with each other) within 5%, they are considered a good set. Rich at Cruzin Performance will only alert you to a problem or the need to swap out different injectors to make a better matched set if necessary and if he has donors on hand (or can get them). That being said, I think most sets of injectors stay together (what goes in comes back to you). Regards, Rich
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#6. Operating Experience on a LapLogger - from Kallay@aol.com
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Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 11:12:58 EST From: Kallay@aol.com Subject: Operating Experience on a LapLogger Hello Everyone. Does anyone have any operating experience with this logger? The cost is $59. It sounds to good to be true? I am considering buying an interface for my PC and ran across this one in the April issue of Bimmer Magazine. WWW.bsc-usa.com/LapLogger Does anyone know if there are comprehensive publications out there that explain what the diagnostic codes mean for an E36M3? Tom Kallay 98 M3-2 Dinan S3
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#7. E36M3 #3543 #17 Window Motor Issue - from perryinricva@comcast.net
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Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 22:45:12 +0000 From: perryinricva@comcast.net Subject: E36M3 #3543 #17 Window Motor Issue -------------------- 17 -------------------- > Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2004 11:07:53 -0800 (PST) > From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> > Subject: Window motor issue > > My passenger window will no longer roll down. When I > push the switch I hear a slight click, which sounds > like the motor trying to function, but no activity. > The same sound is heard when I push the small "switch" > on the passenger door latch that activates the > automatic window up/down when the door is opened and > closed. I have swapped driver and passenger switches, > and the issue is definitely with the passenger side. > Searching the archives I found this: > > "It seems that if you run the motor to it's furthest > extent you can "lock up" a window motor unit and all > it will do is click." > > The above sounds like my issue precisely. Is there a > way to correct this issue, or should I head out to get > a new window motor. And is swapping the window motor > as detailed as Bentley seems to indicate, or is there > some short cut? > > Thanks for any input. > > Jason Motor replacement is a PITA as it is riveted in place and requires drilling it out and then replacing it with bolts. I'd definitely try taking off the door panel and then helping the window rack along as you push the down button. They window stops based on current, so if it is jammed, it will try but not move, and takes time to reset. I doubt it's the motor itself, they rarely die, but the electronics do, as they are potted. Unluckily you have to buy a window motor assembley in order to get the electronics (which is mounted to the motor), they are not available separately. Luckily, the electronics is easily detached from the assembley and swapped with your existing module. If I remember the whole thing was about $120, discounted. You just end up with a perfectly good motor that you can't use.
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#8. Tires for Sale - from Martin Bullen
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Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2004 21:30:59 -0500 From: Martin Bullen <vze322dw@verizon.net> Subject: Tires for Sale I have the following cluttering up the garage from a recent wheel purchase (wrong size for either car): Continental ContiSport Contact, 225/45-17. Take-offs in good condition with 7/32" - 8/32" tread. No flats/patches. I have three available, but will separate. $50 each, plus shipping from 19301 (or pick up in Philly area). Martin Bullen '95 M3 '97 Z3 2.8
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#9. Z3/MRoadster Parts for Sale - from chrisosborne1@adelphia.net
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Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 9:27:34 -0500 From: <chrisosborne1@adelphia.net> Subject: Z3/MRoadster Parts for Sale Please post in next issue of your publication. Thanks...Chris Osborne BMWCCA# 92573 Z3/Roadster parts Clear side lamps (pair) $30, hat $12, illuminated shift knob $90, wiper inserts (pair) $11. Chris: 703 726 0338 (evenings); chrisosborne1@adelphia.net (VA)
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#10. Shop(s) near Scranton, PA? - from Walter Jordan
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Date: Thu, 15 Jan 2004 09:57:53 -0500 From: "Walter Jordan" <wjordan@inventa.com> Subject: Shop(s) near Scranton, PA? Anybody know of a good non-dealer shop in the greater Scranton/Wilkes-Barre PA area for things like mounting track tires and doing alignments on a car with a non-stock setup? How about for mechanicals... a place you would trust to do VANOS type work or replace your heater core w/o creating new rattles. -- Walter