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#1. Re: [E36M3] help interpret CE code 'Fd' == EVAP shut off valve - from Shelhart2@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 11:25:35 EST From: Shelhart2@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] help interpret CE code 'Fd' == EVAP shut off valve I have the same issue at 85k miles. I changed the valve and still get the code intermittently. What was the cost for the canister? Shel 1998 M3
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#2. Emissions Warranty Question - from Shane Kleinpeter
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Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 09:09:41 -0800 (PST) From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> Subject: Emissions Warranty Question Hi All, My brother has a '98 323iC that was making a noise under the hood. He tracked it to the air injection pump (I think that's what it's called) that sits in front of the DME cover in the engine bay. My understanding is that this is basically a pump that pumps air into the exhaust during start up to aid in emissions reduction. He has a good relationship with his dealer (has bought a bunch of cars from them) and the mechanics looked at it for him at no charge. They basically hemmed and hawwed and when he asked if he NEEDED to replace it, they said something along the lines of 'it won't hurt, but won't affect the car any'. Realize he is in Alabama where they have no inspection, let alone emissions testing. They unplugged the pump and erased the code which turned out the CE light that had come on. My questions are: Is this covered under the 8 year emissions warranty that also covers things like catalytic converters? Will running the car without it cause any issues? Thanks, Shane '96 M3 '94 325i #335 JP __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it! http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/
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#3. FS: Front and Rear Mov'it Brake Kit - from Daniel Wang
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Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 14:59:51 -0800 From: "Daniel Wang" <drdan976@aol.com> Subject: FS: Front and Rear Mov'it Brake Kit Used of course, for about a couple years and will fit 96-99 M3's. 322x32mm Front Kit - includes modified Porsche 993 front turbo calipers ("big red"), 2pc rotors with 7075 aluminum hats, factory pads, adapter brackets, custom Movit hardware (gr12.9 and gr10.9), stainless steel brake lines front & rear (front lines use banjo fittings with hollow bolts) The kit come with Porsche 993 "big red" calipers, 2 piece cast drilled rotors with aluminum hats 322x32mm, movit brackets, hardware, stainless steel lines, and a set of pads. Boxster S/996 monoblock rear calipers (red or black), 1pc rotors with adapter sleeves (drilled for BMW bolt patterns), factory pads, adapter brackets, hardware (gr12.9 and gr10.9), rear lines with banjo fittings They rotors are about 25,000 miles old. There is still a lot of rotor left though. The pads are about 20% left. I am the second owner of these kits. There is nothing wrong with this kit besides some cosmetic paint chips. This is the real Mov'it kit. Retails for $2,795 with Porsche scripting for the front kit and $2495 for the rear kit. ($5290) You can not purchase the rear kit from Movit, unless you purchased the front kit. I have brand new rotors and pads from the dealer for $300 more as an option or $3,000 +shipping. Shipping is over 100lbs. $2750+ shipping thanks, Dan Wang drdan976@aol.com
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#4. Help: Car won't warm up - from Dave Arnold
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Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 18:50:16 -0500 From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> Subject: Help: Car won't warm up First let me say that winter sucks! I'm puzzled and was wondering if anyone in the group could give me a place to start looking. I have a 95 M3. As the weather turned cold in the fall, on occasion I noticed the car running cooler than normal. Recently, over the past two weeks, I noticed that sometimes the car would not warm up to the normal operating temp (center mark on gauge). The car would warm up normally for the most part, but when it would not, it would only warm slightly past the blue mark, then either stay that way or finally raise to the center mark, sometimes rapidly - but never over the center mark. The weather has been consistently between the high twenties to low forty degrees ambient temperature. Since it has warmed to the center mark in colder weather (low teens Fahrenheit), I concluded that there was a problem, and figured it was the thermostat failing in an "open" position. I reasoned that I should replace the thermostat at the first opportunity. That opportunity was yesterday and now that I replaced it, the car won't heat up past the blue mark on the temp scale, with the ambient temperature in the high twenties. Here are the known facts and what I've checked: * I replaced the thermostat with one ordered from Pacific BMW - marked with BMW and 80 degrees (I assume this is Celsius). I was assured by the Pacific BMW sales person that it was the same temperature thermostat that came stock on the car. * I noticed some slight differences in the two thermostats, the two most notable was that the one I took out of the car had a vent hole in it while the new one did not. The other difference was that the spring tension on the older one was significantly less than the one it was replaced with. I thought this was the problem - that the bimetallic spring weakened over time and was just opening prematurely allowing the car to run cool. * When I replaced the thermostat, although the newer version did not have a vent hole, it did have an arrow and was installed with the arrow up. * The radiator was filled with a 50/50 anti-freeze solution, bleed and then checked for leaks. After driving and letting it cool, the reservoir is at the cold fill line. * After driving for 10 to 15 minutes, the car has still not warmed up past the blue mark. The heater blows "warm" but not hot air inside the car. The top return hose to the radiator is hot to the touch. * The fan clutch is not engaged as it still allows the fan blade to free wheel. What should I check now? Has anyone else experienced this? What are the dangers to the engine to drive it cold? What are the differences between thermostats with and without the bleed hole? How many different temperature thermostats are there for our cars? Does the electric fan have a thermostat and how do I check that? Any help or pointers are very much appreciated. Thank you, Dave A 95 ///M3 Refrigerator
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Help: Car won't warm up - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 19:54:57 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help: Car won't warm up In a message dated 1/25/04 5:55:03 PM Central Standard Time, air2daa@insightbb.com writes: > * I replaced the thermostat with one ordered from Pacific BMW - > marked with BMW and 80 degrees (I assume this is Celsius). I was > assured by the Pacific BMW sales person that it was the same temperature > thermostat that came stock on the car. > Dan, No, that is not the same as stock thermostat. I think the stock thermostat was 92 C. And it has been superseded by a 94 C thermostat. So the one you have is way colder than stock. I am not surprised in cold weather - 20's - your engine is not warming up. Hopefully Neil Maller will jump in here. I thought he gave an excellent treatise on changing the temperature of thermostats. Basically, the temperature at which a thermostat opens is meaningless. When your engine is under high load, high stress, high heat, etc... conditions such as a DE in the summer, the final coolant temperature is going to be controlled by the capacity of your cooling system. Any thermostat, regardless of temperature is going to be wide open under those conditions. I live in Dallas, Texas. We get about 15 days each summer of 100 degrees. I've been running a 94 C thermostat for over 2 years with no problem. And I don't even have an engine fan on my motor. I'd try using the correct temperature thermostat and see if that gets your engine up to normal temperature. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, Texas - 76 degrees F
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Help: Car won't warm up - from Dave Arnold
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Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 21:17:47 -0500 From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Help: Car won't warm up Can someone provide me with the correct part number for the 94 C thermostat? Thank you Lowell, Dave -----Original Message----- From: LoweSeaton@aol.com [mailto:LoweSeaton@aol.com] Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 8:10 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help: Car won't warm up Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 19:54:57 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help: Car won't warm up In a message dated 1/25/04 5:55:03 PM Central Standard Time, air2daa@insightbb.com writes: > * I replaced the thermostat with one ordered from Pacific BMW - > marked with BMW and 80 degrees (I assume this is Celsius). I was > assured by the Pacific BMW sales person that it was the same > temperature thermostat that came stock on the car. > Dan, No, that is not the same as stock thermostat. I think the stock thermostat was 92 C. And it has been superseded by a 94 C thermostat. So the one you have is way colder than stock. I am not surprised in cold weather - 20's - your engine is not warming up. Hopefully Neil Maller will jump in here. I thought he gave an excellent treatise on changing the temperature of thermostats. Basically, the temperature at which a thermostat opens is meaningless. When your engine is under high load, high stress, high heat, etc... conditions such as a DE in the summer, the final coolant temperature is going to be controlled by the capacity of your cooling system. Any thermostat, regardless of temperature is going to be wide open under those conditions. I live in Dallas, Texas. We get about 15 days each summer of 100 degrees. I've been running a 94 C thermostat for over 2 years with no problem. And I don't even have an engine fan on my motor. I'd try using the correct temperature thermostat and see if that gets your engine up to normal temperature. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, Texas - 76 degrees F ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Help: Car won't warm up - from nabli@earthlink.net
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Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 21:51:43 -0500 From: <nabli@earthlink.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Help: Car won't warm up Guys, I must be missing something. I can only find an 88 C for the 3.2L M3. The 3.0L M3 specs out a 92 C thermostat. I cannot find a 94 C at all for a 6 CYL - at least not in the last 25 minutes or so. Cheers, Jim E. -----Original Message----- From: Dave Arnold [mailto:air2daa@insightbb.com] Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 9:30 PM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Help: Car won't warm up Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 21:17:47 -0500 From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Help: Car won't warm up Can someone provide me with the correct part number for the 94 C thermostat? Thank you Lowell, Dave -----Original Message----- From: LoweSeaton@aol.com [mailto:LoweSeaton@aol.com] Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2004 8:10 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help: Car won't warm up Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 19:54:57 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help: Car won't warm up In a message dated 1/25/04 5:55:03 PM Central Standard Time, air2daa@insightbb.com writes: > * I replaced the thermostat with one ordered from Pacific BMW - > marked with BMW and 80 degrees (I assume this is Celsius). I was > assured by the Pacific BMW sales person that it was the same > temperature thermostat that came stock on the car. > Dan, No, that is not the same as stock thermostat. I think the stock thermostat was 92 C. And it has been superseded by a 94 C thermostat. So the one you have is way colder than stock. I am not surprised in cold weather - 20's - your engine is not warming up. Hopefully Neil Maller will jump in here. I thought he gave an excellent treatise on changing the temperature of thermostats. Basically, the temperature at which a thermostat opens is meaningless. When your engine is under high load, high stress, high heat, etc... conditions such as a DE in the summer, the final coolant temperature is going to be controlled by the capacity of your cooling system. Any thermostat, regardless of temperature is going to be wide open under those conditions. I live in Dallas, Texas. We get about 15 days each summer of 100 degrees. I've been running a 94 C thermostat for over 2 years with no problem. And I don't even have an engine fan on my motor. I'd try using the correct temperature thermostat and see if that gets your engine up to normal temperature. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, Texas - 76 degrees F
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Help: Car won't warm up - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 22:06:10 EST From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help: Car won't warm up In a message dated 1/25/04 8:55:03 PM Central Standard Time, nabli@earthlink.net writes: > Guys, I must be missing something. I can only find an 88 C for the 3.2L > M3. The 3.0L M3 specs out a 92 C thermostat. I cannot find a 94 C at all > for a 6 CYL - at least not in the last 25 minutes or so. > > Cheers, > Jim E. > I'm sorry, I started the confusion. My main point is Dave had somehow gotten a thermostat way too cold for his 3.0L M3. He said it is an 80 C thermostat. I replaced my thermostat as preventive maintenance about 3 years ago. I ordered my parts from Zygmunt Motors (bimmerparts.com). I removed my thermostat and compared it to the one from Zygmunt. I noticed that the replacement thermostat was a degree or two hotter than my stock thermostat. That was 3 years ago - don't hold me to it. Maybe the original thermostat was 91 degrees and the replacement was 92. I called Zygmunt to complain but I was told the hotter thermostat had superseded the original. I said "OK" and completed the repair. 3 years later and still no problem. It makes sense to use a hotter thermostat for emissions reasons. The hotter thermostat will make the engine slightly hotter and that will slightly reduce emissions. I'm sure BMW spec'd the hotter thermostat with emissions in mind. Lowell Seaton '95 M3
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#9. Camber plates - from Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com
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Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 07:58:39 -0500 From: Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com Subject: Camber plates Hi everyone, I was wondering if anyone had recommendations for camber plates. I currently have Koni SA shock and Dinan springs. I'm aware of about three choices: Dinan fixed plates, TCKline and KMACs. How many degrees do the Dinan plates net? Any others choices? (I could swap the hats, but that would be a tad extreme). I'm looking to get about -2.5 up front. Adjustability would be nice, to even out the 0.3 degrees or so of cross camber that I currently have. I don't plan on adjusting them often....maybe 1-2x an autox season. What do people recommend, non-spherical bearings, since it's a street car? Thanks, Colin '98 M3 (Koni+Dinan, JC soft+intake, X-brace, Euro rotors+R4S...) '03 Z06
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Camber plates - from DocWyte
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Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 05:07:48 -0800 (PST) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Camber plates Colin, If all you want is -2.5, I'd just swap hats and call it a day. I have right around -2.5 up front with the strut bearings swapped side to side. Other offerings besides what you list are from Ground Control and I think a new company called Motor Force is making plates for our cars now. -josh --- Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com wrote: > Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 07:58:39 -0500 > From: Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com > Subject: Camber plates > > Hi everyone, > > I was wondering if anyone had recommendations for > camber plates. I > currently have Koni SA shock and Dinan springs. I'm > aware of about three > choices: Dinan fixed plates, TCKline and KMACs. How > many degrees do the > Dinan plates net? > Any others choices? (I could swap the hats, but > that would be a tad > extreme). I'm looking to get about -2.5 up front. > Adjustability would be > nice, to even out the 0.3 degrees or so of cross > camber that I currently > have. > > I don't plan on adjusting them often....maybe 1-2x > an autox season. What > do people recommend, non-spherical bearings, since > it's a street car? > > Thanks, > Colin > '98 M3 (Koni+Dinan, JC soft+intake, X-brace, Euro > rotors+R4S...) > '03 Z06 > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance > http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > ===== __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it! http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/