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#1. Re: Coolant Temp Sender Location - was car won't heat up - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 17:21:58 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Coolant Temp Sender Location - was car won't heat up on 1/27/04 4:40 PM, "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> wrote: > I'm beginning to think that my the problem is related to the temperature > sender and not the thermostat at all. I'm trying to locate the sending > units, but can't locate them. Can anyone send me a good description (or > picture) of where the temperature sending units are located? Also, is > there a way to tell if they are working correctly or not. The coolant temperature sensor has nothing to do with how or whether the engine warms up. One sensor, on the passenger side radiator side tank turns the auxiliary electric cooling fan on and off, and won't cut in until much higher temps than you're seeing. The other, located on the cylinder head under the intake manifold provides a temperature reading which helps the ECU to decide, in conjunction with other sensor inputs, how to control the engine based on current operating conditions. Here are some things that occur to me: - Your new thermostat may simply be defective, and sticking open or partially open. Hey, it happens. - Your new thermostat, if it's really calibrated to 80C, is in any case too cold. As Carl Stern correctly points out in his post in the same Digest, a cooler thermostat only reduces engine operating temperature when excess cooling capacity exists, such as in very cold weather. And that's exactly when you *don't* want additional cooling. Conversely, under extreme operating conditions such as very high ambient or on the track, when you'd like to run cooler, even a 92C thermostat will be wide open all the time anyway, so an 80C version accomplishes nothing useful at all. This whole business of people installing 80C thermostats is based on faulty logic - all it does on our engines is make them operate outside of their design range when you don't want them to. (You'll also have greater difficulty passing emissions inspections, which is why BMW went from the earlier 88C to a 92C thermostat.) - You'd think that even 80C coolant would still be enough for proper heater operation, but if the cabin intake air is really frigid, maybe not. You might also have an air bubble in the heater matrix from when you installed the new thermostat, although I'd think that would have worked its way out by now. If I were you I'd install the correct 88-92C thermostat and toss the one you've got. But I might be a maroon baboon... Let us know how it works out. Neil 96 M3
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#2. Motorsport Strut Brace Part Number - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 17:40:24 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Motorsport Strut Brace Part Number > Subject says it all. I am looking for the BMW part number for the > motorsport strut brace, anyone have the parts CD handy? I have one that is available for sale. It is brand new. I can take pictures of it and I can source the nuts easily if needed. Regards, Rich
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#3. Ellipsoid lights - from Go, Jeffrey
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Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 23:43:33 +0100 From: "Go, Jeffrey" <jeffrey.go@sap.com> Subject: Ellipsoid lights Hi Gruppe, Again, I am throwing this out: I am *this close* to upgrading my stock lights to ellipsoids. I would like to know the ff: 1). How BETTER are they than stock? Longevity? Reliability? Do I need to upgrade fuses?etc... 2). Where can I find them affordable?? Thanks -----Original Message----- From: Stephen Ayers [mailto:sayer@ayersnet.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2004 5:47 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Introduction Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2004 20:40:29 -0500 From: "Stephen Ayers" <sayer@ayersnet.com> Subject: Introduction I've just joined the list and thought I would introduce myself - I've been driving my 98 Techno Violet E36 M3 since purchasing it new in June of 98. It was one of the last 4-doors produced. After using it as a daily driver for 3 years I discovered the world of Autocross and high performance driving schools. Over the past 2 years and 30+ track events the car has evolved into primarily track car. Modifications include HMS Roll bar, RD sway bars, strut tower brace, X-brace, software upgrade, PF brake pads, frozen rotors, UUC short-shifter, cold air, Ground Control Race coil-over kit (Koni/Eibach), lots of 8.5" Kosei K1 rims, Toyo and Kumo "R" compound tires, and Transmission Mount Enforcer. For this winter I plan on making the following changes: * Suzuka Race Seats * Exhaust - UUC * Brake cooling kit - turner * Front Splitter * Rear wing - Not sure which one * TMS Trailing Arm Bushing Limiter Kit * Front control arms & Tie rods (safety items) * Repack front wheel bearings with RedLine * JT-Designs Aluminum Underpanel I would love some feedback from the group on other recommended modifications/maintenance items for a 60K mile track car. (I've already taken car of the water pump) Also, recommendations on aftermarket replica rear wings would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, -Steve 98 E36 M3 91 E30 M3 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Ellipsoid lights - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 14:54:09 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Ellipsoid lights Longevity, reliability? Never heard those terms used for headlight housings. In terms of longevity, a bulb is a bulb is a bulb. I think Stephen Lafredo had a great experience with 80Watt Hella bulbs =P In terms of withstanding pitting, the stock units pit and look nasty and the ellipsoids pit as well. I'm about to replace my glass lens because they just look gnarly. I would recommend you getting the 3M scotchcal stuff to protect the glass. In terms of wiring, if you're using stock wattages, you'll be fine. I would, however, highly recommend HID retrofits ;) They really make a night and day difference vs. stock/ellipsoid. Chester --- "Go, Jeffrey" <jeffrey.go@sap.com> wrote: > Again, I am throwing this out: > > I am *this close* to upgrading my stock lights to ellipsoids. > > I would like to know the ff: > > 1). How BETTER are they than stock? Longevity? Reliability? Do I need to > upgrade fuses?etc... > > 2). Where can I find them affordable?? =====
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#5. M50 intake manifold on 96+ M3? - from K Quistorff
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Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 18:04:04 -0500 From: "K Quistorff" <kqkq@nc.rr.com> Subject: M50 intake manifold on 96+ M3? After reading the M50 intake manifold swap instructions on midnightautowerks.com, I recently purchased a used M50 manifold and all the gaskets, hose, tees, etc. needed to do the swap. Since my M3 is my only car, I'm very concerned about the fabrication involved with fitting my fuel rail onto the M50 manifold - trimming and bending parts of the rail, fabricating mounting brackets, etc., and having it done over a weekend in time to into work Monday morning. Anyone with experience with this swap out there that can give me more detailed information than provided on midnightautowerks? Any detailed descriptions, close-up photos of a modified fuel rail and/or the custom mounting brackets or dimensions of the custom mounting brackets, etc. would be greatly appreciated. Or anyone know of any other/better websites showing this mod? For reference, the following is the URL to the midnightautowerks instructions: http://www.midnightautowerks.com/Installs/95intake/install.html Thanks in advance for anything helpful. Keith Quistorff 1996 M3 - Dinan Stage 4 (soon to be 5), GC coilovers w/Koni SAs, 450 & 525 lb/in
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Ellipsoid lights - from Rex Tener
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Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 15:13:46 -0800 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Ellipsoid lights At 04:50 PM 1/27/2004 -0600, Go, Jeffrey wrote: >I am *this close* to upgrading my stock lights to ellipsoids. > >I would like to know the ff: Hi Jeff, I upgraded mine a year ago. >1). How BETTER are they than stock? Longevity? Reliability? Do I need to >upgrade fuses?etc... They are much better than stock and make a nice cosmetic improvement in the car also. My factory lights were fairly pitted when I took them off. As soon as I installed the lights I applied Stongard to protect them from pitting. They still look great a year later. >2). Where can I find them affordable?? I bought my ZKW's with plug-n-play wiring harness adapters from Lava Lighting and the die cut Stongard light protection directly from Stongard. There might be list sponsors that sell the ZKW's too. -- Rex Tener rex_tener@yahoo.com
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#7. FS: 3.46 LSD 40% lock differential w RE cover - from DrDan976@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 18:22:33 -0500 From: DrDan976@aol.com Subject: FS: 3.46 LSD 40% lock differential w RE cover Off my 95 E36 M3. 3.46 LSD differential with 40% lock, less than 5,000 street miles old. Gearing was purchased from Korman Motorworks. Rogue engineering cover less than 1,000 miles old. Fluid is 1000 miles old too. Four bolt flange. Selling for $1500 (no core) + shipping. I prefer not to ship, but if need be, I will ship at buyer's expense. Dan Wang Santa Ana, CA
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Ellipsoid lights - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 17:28:22 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Ellipsoid lights > 1). How BETTER are they than stock? Much. I've had them on the M3 for nearly the whole 5+ years I've had the car. > Longevity? Reliability? Well, they don't discolor like the stock plastic ones. They will chip/break just like a windshield though. Use Stongard or similar. An added benefit of the Euro ellipsoids is that the glass lens is available separately, making replacement relatively easy (BTDT). > Do I need > to upgrade fuses?etc... You should upgrade the fuses and internal wiring of the lights if you plan to use 100W bulbs. Not necessary if you use the 55W bulbs supplied with the lights. > 2). Where can I find them affordable?? Dunno about affordable, but I got mine from Eurosport High Performance (list sponsor). Came with everything needed, including high-temp wiring & fuses for using 100W bulbs and instructions. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP/A5 - survived Sears, longing for Las Vegas :-)
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#9. Re: computer off? - from Craig Perrin
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Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 23:45:56 -0500 From: Craig Perrin <cperrin@tampabay.rr.com> Subject: Re: computer off? Hunt, You might try the procedure below, a more precise version of a "Test 20" that I ran into on the internet, for changing the "mileage correction factor." I don't know about your supercharged 97, but it worked for my 95 when I went to larger injectors. 1. Press 1000 and 10 together. 2. "TEST NR: --" appears. 3. Press 1000 and 10 together. 4. "TEST NR: --" reappears. 5. Enter 19 using the numeric keys. 6. Press SET/RES. 7. "LOCK: ON" appears. 8. Press the DATE key. 9. Add the numbers for current day and month (e.g., 12.06 = 12 + 6 = 18). 10. Enter that total (e.g., 18) using the numeric keys. 11. Press SET/RES. 12. "TEST NR: --" reappears 13. Enter 20 with the numeric keys. 14. The stock correction factor appears (1000). 15. Enter 1250 (maximum allowed) using the numeric keys. 16. Press SET/RES. 17. Press 1000 and 10 together. 18. Enter 19. 19. Press SET/RES. 20. Press SET/RES again. 21. "LOCK: ON --" reappears. 22. Press CHECK to return to standard functionality. When I set the correction factor to 1250 with 24# injectors, the mpg readings were better but still high. Stock injectors on the 95 are 17#. When I later switched to 21.5# injectors, the 1250 maximum correction factor was spot-on compared to a conventional mileage check. Again, this may or may not work in your 97. Craig No longer getting 47 mpg -------------------- 7 -------------------- Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2004 14:54:28 -0800 (PST) From: Hunt Hodgetts <hhodgetts@yahoo.com> Subject: computer off ? I've finally installed the AA Supercharger on my 1997 M3 Coupe. The kit included larger fuel injectors and AA reprogrammed my ECU. Before the installation, I was getting 19.5 mpg around town and when I divided the miles driven by # gallons when I filled the tank, the numbers were very close. My computer is now telling me that I'm getting 23.5 mpg but my calculations are coming up with 18 mpg. Is there any way to reprogram my trip computer to compensate for the larger injectors?? Hunt Hodgetts, Atlanta 97 M3 Coupe 126k
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#10. RE: Help: Car won't warm up - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2004 00:14:03 -0500 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Help: Car won't warm up Carl, Yes, the thermostat does determine the minimum operating temperature of the engine. But the amount that it opens also varies with temperature (It isn't strictly closed or wide open). Once it begins to open, it will continue to to open wider, as the coolant temperature increases, until it's opened the maximum amount. Check it out on your kitchen stove, using a pot of water and a cooking thermometer. A thermostat with a lower opening temperature will also have a wider opening at a given temperature than would a thermostat with a higher opening temp. Therefore, at a given temperature (say, 93C), the wider opening of the thermostat with the lower opening temp will allow more coolant to flow through the radiator, in effect, and cool the fluid more. Once the thermostat is FULLY opened, the maximum amount of cooling available is based on the ability of the radiator to remove heat from the system. If the system generates more heat than the radiator can remove (with the thermostat fully opened), then the coolant temp will continue to rise. Hope this helps, -rb Ron Buchalski BMWCCA #76387 1995 E36 M3 1993 E34 525iT 1999 Mazda Miata >Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2004 13:08:58 -0700 >From: Carl Stern <Carl.Stern@xilinx.com> >Subject: RE: Help: Car won't warm up > > >Correct me if I'm wrong, which I probably am. >Doesn't a thermostat determine the minimum operating temperature, >not the maximum? Once it opens it is up to the rest of the cooling >system to do the job. So how does going to a cooler thermostat make >the car run cooler? Unless the cooling system already was able to >keep the temperature right at the warmer thermostat setpoint. If that >was the case then the car really wasn't too hot then was it? > >thanks, > >Carl Stern >95 M3 30k _________________________________________________________________ Check out the coupons and bargains on MSN Offers! http://shopping.msn.com/softcontent/softcontent.aspx?scmId=1418