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#1. RE: [E36M3] passenger airbag temporary disable? - from Carl Stern
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 09:52:53 -0700 From: Carl Stern <Carl.Stern@xilinx.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] passenger airbag temporary disable? Bob Sutterfield wrote: > Is it possible to temporarily disable the passenger airbag(s), > so a child can ride in the RF seat? Yes it is possible and completely legal. I had this done on my Grand Cherokee. By federal law, manufacturers must provide the switch hardware to enable this modification. It is typically more than just a switch. It is a module designed to look like a functioning airbag so that the SRS warning lights are not triggered. The modification includes a keyed on/off switch and a corresponding on/off status light which must be in view of the driver and passenger. I've spoken to NHTSA folks on the phone about this. It is all on their website, including a listing of shops willing to do the work. When I did the research on my Jeep, all the information the dealers and Chrysler gave me was wrong. They either didn't know it was legal or they lied. Dealerships are not required to do the work, but the parts dept. probably has the hardware. I don't know the case with BMW. You do need to sign a waiver releasing the shop from liability. The vehicle serial number is sent to a national database. This is so this information can be researched when buying a used vehicle. Bob, I can give you the name of the guy in Denver that did mine. Carl Stern 95 M3 30k
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Re: Introduction - from Taner Halicioglu
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 08:58:31 -0800 From: Taner Halicioglu <taner@e36m3.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Introduction On Fri, Jan 30, 2004 at 10:40:14AM -0600, Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> wrote: > Taner, as I recall, is a long-time Audi Club Driving School attendee. That I am! :) Been to t'hill enough to be an instructor at those events, too... > Gonn be at Laguna Seca this weekend? Unfortunately not :( The S4 needs new tie rod ends (no racing on the current ones!), and the M3 isn't fully registered in my name yet :( And Laguna is my favorite track, too! I'm bummed :( -Taner
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: Introduction - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 09:07:31 -0800 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Introduction On Jan 30, 2004, at 8:58 AM, Taner Halicioglu wrote: >> Gonn be at Laguna Seca this weekend? > > Unfortunately not :( > > The S4 needs new tie rod ends (no racing on the current ones!), and > the M3 > isn't fully registered in my name yet :( Bummer! > And Laguna is my favorite track, too! I'm bummed :( > We'll do some laps for you. (yeah, like that helps, huh) - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net
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#4. Rattling noise upon startup - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 12:19:14 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Rattling noise upon startup > My 120k 96 is experiencing a rattling noise upon the first startup. It gets > louder and faster with the revs. However, once the car is warmed up, the > noise goes away. I suspect it is the cooling system. The water pump was > changed at 65k and I'm still on the stock radiator. Coolant level is normal. It seems quite odd to me to suspect the cooling system related to a "rattling noise". I would suspect the VANOS or the hydraulic lifters first based on your description. Regards, Rich
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#5. RE: My intro... - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 09:17:47 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: My intro... Taner wrote: (with editing) The car already has the front sport lip...As well as a few other mods: * M50 (1995) intake manifold * Jim Conforti Shark Injector Welcome! Sounds like a nice ride! Good list of mods, but unless your manifold retrofit included the _whole_ package, I'd be tempted to 'complete' the package with the remaining EuroSport items usually associated to the retrofit M50 Intake manifold. The additional items (cams, injectors, software, intake duct) will restore some drivability lost with the addition of just the manifold. http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com/images/cams/Cam%20kit%203.2%20Large%201662.jpg Kim Burgess
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Help: Car won't warm up - from Newman, Christopher
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 12:20:32 -0500 From: "Newman, Christopher" <CNewman@LSAC.org> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Help: Car won't warm up Hello, I'm curious about a few things along similar lines to what Dave asks below. Suppose you have a coolant sensor problem, AND your water pump is failing, would the temperature gauge actually rise to the red zone ? In other words, is it possible that with a faulty coolant sensor, you could be overheating from a failing water pump but not even know it because the temperature gauge is reading incorrectly ? Regarding a thermostat that's stuck open, is this a major concern ? I would think stuck open is better than stuck closed, but does the cars computers compensate somehow and perhaps shorten the life of the catalytic converter or other components ? Thanks. Any comments are truly appreciated. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ----------------------------------- > Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2004 18:50:16 -0500 > From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> > Subject: Help: Car won't warm up > > First let me say that winter sucks! > > I'm puzzled and was wondering if anyone in the group could give me a > place to start looking. > > I have a 95 M3. As the weather turned cold in the fall, on occasion I > noticed the car running cooler than normal. Recently, over the past two > weeks, I noticed that sometimes the car would not warm up to the normal > operating temp (center mark on gauge). The car would warm up normally > for the most part, but when it would not, it would only warm slightly > past the blue mark, then either stay that way or finally raise to the > center mark, sometimes rapidly - but never over the center mark. The > weather has been consistently between the high twenties to low forty > degrees ambient temperature. Since it has warmed to the center mark in > colder weather (low teens Fahrenheit), I concluded that there was a > problem, and figured it was the thermostat failing in an "open" > position. I reasoned that I should replace the thermostat at the first > opportunity. That opportunity was yesterday and now that I replaced it, > the car won't heat up past the blue mark on the temp scale, with the > ambient temperature in the high twenties. > > Here are the known facts and what I've checked: > > * I replaced the thermostat with one ordered from Pacific BMW - > marked with BMW and 80 degrees (I assume this is Celsius). I was > assured by the Pacific BMW sales person that it was the same temperature > thermostat that came stock on the car. > * I noticed some slight differences in the two thermostats, the > two most notable was that the one I took out of the car had a vent hole > in it while the new one did not. The other difference was that the > spring tension on the older one was significantly less than the one it > was replaced with. I thought this was the problem - that the bimetallic > spring weakened over time and was just opening prematurely allowing the > car to run cool. > * When I replaced the thermostat, although the newer version did > not have a vent hole, it did have an arrow and was installed with the > arrow up. > * The radiator was filled with a 50/50 anti-freeze solution, bleed > and then checked for leaks. After driving and letting it cool, the > reservoir is at the cold fill line. > * After driving for 10 to 15 minutes, the car has still not warmed > up past the blue mark. The heater blows "warm" but not hot air inside > the car. The top return hose to the radiator is hot to the touch. > * The fan clutch is not engaged as it still allows the fan blade > to free wheel. > > What should I check now? Has anyone else experienced this? What are > the dangers to the engine to drive it cold? What are the differences > between thermostats with and without the bleed hole? How many different > temperature thermostats are there for our cars? Does the electric fan > have a thermostat and how do I check that? > > Any help or pointers are very much appreciated. > > Thank you, > > Dave A > 95 ///M3 Refrigerator > > > >
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#7. Plastic covers on top of the engine - from Newman, Christopher
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 12:21:37 -0500 From: "Newman, Christopher" <CNewman@LSAC.org> Subject: Plastic covers on top of the engine Hello, Regarding the plastic covers on top of the engine (black with silver stripes), once you remove the circular inserts, there are bolts holding the plastic covers on. When putting these bolts back in, is there a specific torque they should be tightened to ? Or is just tightening them snug sufficient ? Thanks.
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#8. Re: Introduction - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 09:51:35 -0800 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: Introduction Been a CCA member since 1990 KLchmn@aol.com wrote: > Welcome aboard. > > I would encourage you to take the following steps in your twelve step > program: > > 1) Join BMW CCA if you haven't, and; > > 2) Attend eleven driving schools! > > You're bound to have fun. > > Regards, > > Kirk Lachman > Sin City Chapter > '95 M3 #21 I-stock > Sin City Driving School May 15-16, 2004! Application available in > mid-February.
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Starter - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 09:52:18 -0800 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Starter Where are you? jbjerke@charter.net wrote: >Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 1:55:56 +0000 >From: <jbjerke@charter.net> >Subject: Starter > >The starter just went out on my Wife's 1997 M3 sedan (auto). Any recommendations as to where to buy a new/rebuilt one? Thanks- > >Jeff Bjerke > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: >Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > > > >
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Rattling noise upon startup - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 10:20:22 -0800 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rattling noise upon startup Timing chain tensioner? Not sure what hhappens on an M50/52 motor when it gets old. On an S14 you get rattles at start. The Vanos also can make noises. The previous owner had the one in my car replaced at 50K due to noise. Kent Dorffer, Rich wrote: >Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 12:19:14 -0500 >From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> >Subject: Rattling noise upon startup > > > >>My 120k 96 is experiencing a rattling noise upon the first startup. It gets >>louder and faster with the revs. However, once the car is warmed up, the >>noise goes away. I suspect it is the cooling system. The water pump was >>changed at 65k and I'm still on the stock radiator. Coolant level is normal. >> >> > >It seems quite odd to me to suspect the cooling system related to a "rattling noise". I would suspect the VANOS or the hydraulic lifters first based on your description. > >Regards, > >Rich > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: >Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > > > > >