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#1. New Engine Help - from Bill P
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Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2004 14:52:41 -0500 From: "Bill P" <billpanop@suscom.net> Subject: New Engine Help Finally building the proper motor to handle the power that I crave. I have not posted in a while so let me say a little about my car. It is a 1995 M3. Presently it has Scrick Cams, Headwork, Exhaust system and an ERT Supercharger and other mods. The car now makes about 340 HP at the wheels. Yes, I crave more power. I have recently bought a 1997 3.2L M3 engine and Pete McHenry is building it for me. The new motor is going to have low compression pistons (8.5:1) and stronger rods amount other internal stuff. Here is where you guys can pitch in and help. As much as I value Pete's word, he does not want to use the "standard" stuff ( i.e. JE Pistons and Pauter Rods). He says that JE's quality recently went down due to a merger with Wiesco and then a buyout by Delaware Elevator Company. He also add that Pauter (I-Beam) rods, due to there I-Beam design are marginally better then the stock BMW rods (H-Beam). He says by design, I-Beam rods are more prone to "twisting" under extreme (Supercharger, Turbo) conditions. He recommends custom built pistons by some race shop (forget the name), he swears by them. He also recommends BMW Diesel (H-Beam) rods. He says the Diesel rods are much stronger then the Pauter rods but also heavier, even heavier then the stock M3 rods. He made a comment as to how the diesel rods are designed to take extreme pressures all the time (a diesel has 25:1 comp ration). His comment is you can choose strength or weight saving and since this is a "street car" strength add reliability and longevity while robbing some HP. What is everyone's take on this? I kind of agree on the I-Beam vs. H-Beam thing. I have checked the internet and found that Crower (affordable) and Carrillo (expensive but the best) make some great H-Beam rods. I will ask him about these. Has anyone that used the Pauter rods or recent JE Pistons have any problem? Please comment as this project is taking shape very fast. Has anyone used any other piston or rods that I need to look at or has a comment about? Once the motor is built it will be getting another supercharger, and "roots type" true blower this time, making 14 PSI. Thank You Bill P
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Sachs clutch kit for E34 M5: how much does this cost - from DocWyte
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Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 11:58:39 -0800 (PST) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sachs clutch kit for E34 M5: how much does this cost Bimmerparts sells it for $320 I think. -josh --- Msebmwman@aol.com wrote: > Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 14:01:22 EST > From: Msebmwman@aol.com > Subject: Sachs clutch kit for E34 M5: how much does > this cost > > Anyone; > > The UUC stage 2 flywheel requires the E34 M5 Sachs > kits BMW part number 21 21 > 2 226 428 in order to use the kit. > > Does anyone know how much this kit costs. This > complete clutch kit from BMW > to fit the E34 M5 includes > M5 clutch, pressure > plate, and throwout bearing > > > Thanks, > Marc > ===== __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it! http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Sachs clutch kit for E34 M5: how much does this cost - from Msebmwman@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 15:18:15 EST From: Msebmwman@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sachs clutch kit for E34 M5: how much does this cost Josh; Thanks for the suggestion. M3Motorwerks.com sells for 375 Bimmerparts for around 334. Shipping unknown but can't be much different. Regards, Marc In a message dated 2/1/2004 11:58:59 AM Pacific Standard Time, josh_wyte@yahoo.com writes: > > > Bimmerparts sells it for $320 I think. > > -josh > >
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#4. Re: frozen Caliper - from Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net
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Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 15:34:54 -0500 From: <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Re: frozen Caliper I replaced my calipers, so can't comment on rebuilding. When my caliper froze, the symptoms were similar to yours, and I had warped my rotor, so needed to replace it. Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams
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#5. RE: [E36M3] [OTH] Looking for good BMW Speed/Tuning Shop in Philadelphia Area - from Michael Gilbert
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Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 15:35:50 -0500 From: "Michael Gilbert" <michael.gilbert4@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] [OTH] Looking for good BMW Speed/Tuning Shop in Philadelphia Area Tom, Call Mike Yaskin at Bavarian Specialties in King of Prussia, PA. He was previously the chief tech steward for BMWCCA club racing and runs a great race, tuning and maintenance shop. When I bought my race car I had him do a pre-purchase inspection. He maintains many front-running race cars. His contact info: Michael Yaskin Bavarian Specialties 340 E Church Rd King of Prussia, PA 19406-2605 Phone: (610) 277-6037 email: Bavspec@aol.com Fax: (610) 277-6039 Hope this helps, Mike Gilbert 97 M3 IP #121 -----Original Message----- From: Tom Voloshin [mailto:tvoloshin@yahoo.com] Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2004 1:00 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] [OTH] Looking for good BMW Speed/Tuning Shop in Philadelphia Area Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2004 09:49:10 -0800 (PST) From: Tom Voloshin <tvoloshin@yahoo.com> Subject: [OTH] Looking for good BMW Speed/Tuning Shop in Philadelphia Area All, I am looking for a good BMW Speed/Tuning shop in the Philadelphia area that carries Street/Track seats (Cobra, Sparco, etc.) that I can go sit in and "try on for size." Any help on where to go or to avoid is greatly appreciated! Thanks and have a great day! Tom __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it! http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/ ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#6. Part# for fog lamp knockout? - from Walter Jordan
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Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 18:22:19 -0500 From: "Walter Jordan" <walter@walterj.com> Subject: Part# for fog lamp knockout? Does anyone know the BMW part # for the plastic knockouts that go where the fog lamps are on M3s and coupes? Chester, I think I saw these on your car... I'm sick of replacing $38 lamps - 3rd this winter broke on my way home today and since the fogs on the M are useless for anything but decoration anyway its time to stop the madness. -- Walter Jordan
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Part# for fog lamp knockout? - from Scott Yu
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Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 18:03:09 -0800 (PST) From: Scott Yu <segascott@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Part# for fog lamp knockout? Hey Walter, Not exactly the answer you're looking for, but I went through two foglamps before I bought some stongard with my next set. That seems to have worked wonderfully, over 1 year and 15,000 miles and they look brand-new. (in case you don't feel like going through the trouble of getting foglamp covers painted, etc) scott yu > From: "Walter Jordan" <walter@walterj.com> > Subject: Part# for fog lamp knockout? > > Does anyone know the BMW part # for the plastic > knockouts that go where the > fog lamps are on M3s and coupes? > > Chester, I think I saw these on your car... I'm sick > of replacing $38 > lamps - 3rd this winter broke on my way home today > and since the fogs on the > M are useless for anything but decoration anyway its > time to stop the > madness. > > > -- > Walter Jordan > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it! http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/
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#8. RE: [E36M3] HID Retrofit - from Bob Sutterfield
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Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 20:22:34 -0700 From: "Bob Sutterfield" <Bob@XC.Org> Subject: RE: [E36M3] HID Retrofit Martin Bullen wrote: > Thinking about retrofitting the ZKW H1 European lights > in my M3 with HID. I recall that there's a company that > makes a plug and play kit that works with the European > connectors. Anybody know who that might be? First, read http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/conversions.ht ml or http://tinyurl.com/2cgt9 -- Bob Sutterfield '9? E36 ///M3 in the hunt '88 E28 535iS http://m535i.org #154 IHR FUNF '93 T4 EV MV Weekender BELUGA BMWCCA #169277 Rocky Mountain Chapter
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#9. Re: [E36M3] HID Retrofit - from Reid Conti
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Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 19:37:08 -0800 From: Reid Conti <reid@conti.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] HID Retrofit > Martin Bullen wrote: >> Thinking about retrofitting the ZKW H1 European lights >> in my M3 with HID. I recall that there's a company that >> makes a plug and play kit that works with the European >> connectors. Anybody know who that might be? > > First, read > http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/ > conversions.ht > ml > or > http://tinyurl.com/2cgt9 > I've read a lot of Daniel Stern's stuff, and tend to agree with him, but I think this is quasi-bs. If you've seen HID kits in ellipsoids you KNOW that the beam pattern is good. The bulb layout is apparently close enough to an H1 that the output with the HID bulbs is pretty much the same pattern. His points about the "hotspot" on HID lights, and how it may desensitize your night vision (ie, you don't actually NEED more light on the road right in front of you) may be correct, but if you want brighter lights, if you subjectively think they're better (which I do), then ignore the stuff about how it's impossible to adapt HID onto a car that wasn't designed for them. - reid
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#10. Re: Water Pump (Again?) - Update - from Shane Kleinpeter
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Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 05:54:32 -0800 (PST) From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Water Pump (Again?) - Update I posted at the end of last week that I thought my water pump was going again after only 25k miles in service. I finally got the chance to crawl under the car on Saturday and found the problem pretty quickly. The radiator (in service 78k miles from new) is leaking along the seam where the plastic crimps into the metal on the driver's side. It's a decent leak which explains the frequency of the 'low coolant' message. A pressure test would have found this quickly since the leak doesn't show up without the system under pressure. I followed the dried coolant path to the location of the leak about midway up the radiator. Shane __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it! http://webhosting.yahoo.com/ps/sb/
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#11. Re: [E36M3] Sachs clutch kit for E34 M5: how much does this cost - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 06:36:09 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Sachs clutch kit for E34 M5: how much does this cost Not sure of the price, but you should check out www.bimmerworld.com. A list sponser. Jay > Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 14:01:22 EST > From: Msebmwman@aol.com > Subject: Sachs clutch kit for E34 M5: how much does this cost > > Anyone; > > The UUC stage 2 flywheel requires the E34 M5 Sachs kits BMW part number 21 21 > 2 226 428 in order to use the kit. > > Does anyone know how much this kit costs. This complete clutch kit from BMW > to fit the E34 M5 includes > M5 clutch, pressure plate, and throwout bearing > > > Thanks, > Marc > > > '91 - '93 E34 M5 parts required. > BMW part # 21 21 2 226 428 (complete clutch kit) > Specify Sachs part number KF777-01. > Pressure plate should be marked "3082 147 238
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#12. Re: computer off? - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 09:53:01 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Re: computer off? > This thread's a little cold but I'd appreciate some math help. What is the > correction factor (assuming it's below the 1250 maximum) that will yield an > accurate mpg reading when going from 17.5# to 21.5# injectors in a 95 M3? Well, assuming your OBC MPG estimate is reasonably accurate currently and is still set to the factory standard of "1,000", going from 17.5# to 21.5# would be: (((21.5 - 17.5)/17.5) + 1) * 1,000 = 1,229 Try that and see how it works with a couple of tanks of gas. Why do you have 21.5# injectors and what modifications do you have? Later, Rich - not an English or Math major...
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#13. RE: [E36M3] Re: Help: Car won't warm up - from Newman, Christopher
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Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 10:26:51 -0500 From: "Newman, Christopher" <CNewman@LSAC.org> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Help: Car won't warm up Neil, Thanks for your response. Usually, the temperature gauge on the car (OBD-II) operates normally. The needle progressively rises from cold to warm and points straight up. But occasionally, sometimes at speed and other times after restarting the car, the needle points closer to the blue/cold mark. The engine runs great, and has never received a check engine light or fault code. The weather here is cold and the heater does blow hot air. My upper radiator hose is hot when touched. I'll look at the coolant sensor, but it sounds like even though the thermostat operates correctly most of the time, it may be starting to go. Would you agree ? Again, thanks. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------------------------------------------------------- > Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2004 14:45:55 -0500 > From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> > Subject: Re: Help: Car won't warm up > > on 1/30/04 1:40 PM, E36M3 at e36m3@bmw-m.net wrote: > > > Suppose you have a coolant sensor problem, AND your water pump is > failing, > > would the temperature gauge actually rise to the red zone? > > No, because the gauge wouldn't "know" about the overheating if its sensor > had failed. > > > In other words, is it possible that with a faulty coolant sensor, you > could be > > overheating from a failing water pump but not even know it because the > > temperature gauge is reading incorrectly ? > > Yes, although simultaneous failure of functionally unrelated components > seems improbable, though not impossible. However the coolant temperature > gauge gets its signal from the ECU, which in turn gets its input from the > sensor. If the sensor had failed, the ECU wouldn't know the temperature of > the engine or be able to regulate timing and mixture correctly, so one > would > expect the engine to run poorly and throw a check engine light. OBD-II > cars > have a fault code (hex 0A) for coolant temp sensor failure. > > > Regarding a thermostat that's stuck open, is this a major concern? > > Yes, read on. > > > I would think stuck open is better than stuck closed > > Yes. > > > but does the cars computers compensate somehow and perhaps shorten the > life of > > the catalytic converter or other components ? > > In cold weather the engine would of course fail to warm up much, and > neither > will you. Assuming that the coolant temperature sensor is functioning > properly, the ECU will compensate with a rich mixture (equivalent to > having > the choke on in a non-fuel injected car). In the case of an OBD-II car the > secondary air injection pump will send air into the exhaust manifold to > aid > in afterburning this mixture. However rich mixture in cold cylinders will > tend to condense on the cylinder walls, and end up diluting the engine > oil. > > Even before the oil gets degraded by gas dilution, a cold engine will have > thick oil that doesn't flow or lubricate as well as it should. Many of us > who have fitted oil temperature gauges have leaned not to rev the car much > until the oil warms up, which takes a surprisingly long time even when > everything works normally. > > So all in all, it's best to make sure that stuff is all working right. > Besides, thermostats are cheap and easy to replace. > > Neil > 96 M3 > >
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#14. Re: [E36M3] New Engine Help - from Michael Lawrence
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Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 10:54:50 -0500 From: "Michael Lawrence" <95m3ltw@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] New Engine Help IMO, given the parties involved, I would strongly suggest checking other known, respected BMW engine builders before proceeding. There are a few folks on this list who have had services provide by certain parties you mentioned, I will let them speak up if they desire. If it were my money, I would be getting 2nd and 3rd opinions on the motor. Mike ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill P" <billpanop@suscom.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2004 3:00 PM Subject: [E36M3] New Engine Help > Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2004 14:52:41 -0500 > From: "Bill P" <billpanop@suscom.net> > Subject: New Engine Help > > Finally building the proper motor to handle the power that > I crave. I have not posted in a while so let me say a > little about my car. It is a 1995 M3. Presently it has > Scrick Cams, Headwork, Exhaust system and an ERT > Supercharger and other mods. The car now makes about 340 > HP at the wheels. Yes, I crave more power. > > I have recently bought a 1997 3.2L M3 engine and Pete > McHenry is building it for me. The new motor is going to > have low compression pistons (8.5:1) and stronger rods > amount other internal stuff. Here is where you guys can > pitch in and help. As much as I value Pete's word, he does > not want to use the "standard" stuff ( i.e. JE Pistons and > Pauter Rods). He says that JE's quality recently went down > due to a merger with Wiesco and then a buyout by Delaware > Elevator Company. He also add that Pauter (I-Beam) rods, > due to there I-Beam design are marginally better then the > stock BMW rods (H-Beam). He says by design, I-Beam rods > are more prone to "twisting" under extreme (Supercharger, > Turbo) conditions. He recommends custom built pistons by > some race shop (forget the name), he swears by them. He > also recommends BMW Diesel (H-Beam) rods. He says the > Diesel rods are much stronger then the Pauter rods but > also heavier, even heavier then the stock M3 rods. He made > a comment as to how the diesel rods are designed to take > extreme pressures all the time (a diesel has 25:1 comp > ration). His comment is you can choose strength or weight > saving and since this is a "street car" strength add > reliability and longevity while robbing some HP. > > What is everyone's take on this? > > I kind of agree on the I-Beam vs. H-Beam thing. I have > checked the internet and found that Crower (affordable) > and Carrillo (expensive but the best) make some great > H-Beam rods. I will ask him about these. > > Has anyone that used the Pauter rods or recent JE Pistons > have any problem? Please comment as this project is taking > shape very fast. > > Has anyone used any other piston or rods that I need to > look at or has a comment about? > > Once the motor is built it will be getting another > supercharger, and "roots type" true blower this time, > making 14 PSI. > > Thank You > > Bill P > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#15. Re: [E36M3] Re: Help: Car won't warm up - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 10:56:33 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Help: Car won't warm up on 2/2/04 10:26 AM, Newman, Christopher at CNewman@LSAC.org wrote: > but it sounds like even though the thermostat operates correctly most of the > time, it may be starting to go. Would you agree ? That's certainly my bet. For whatever reason, these thermostats are known to stick. Sometimes they physically fall apart: the bridge comes away from the body of the t'stat. As to the coolant temp sensor, because it provides a temp reading to the ECU it's possible for a dealer to check for proper operation by comparing the reported coolant temp to a measured actual value. I don't know of any way for an individual to do that, other than by buying an expensive professional level code reader. However this sensor has no moving parts, so I'd guess it's a lot less likely to fail than the t'stat, and very unlikely to stick or fail in some intermittent fashion. It also seems very unlikely to me that the coolant temp sensor could fail without noticeably affecting drivability or throwing a CE light, especially on an OBD-II car. Neil 96 M3