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#1. Re: [E36M3] Re: Help: Car won't warm up - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 08:27:33 -0800 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Help: Car won't warm up Hi, Driveability would be affected. If the sensor fails "hot" the the mixture would be lean when cold. You would have a cold idle problem. If it failed "cold", with the engine warm you would be running rich. This would not affect driveability that much. Experience with my E30 M3. In an OBD-II car, I'm not sure if it would throw CE or not. Kent Neil Maller wrote: >Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 10:56:33 -0500 >From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Help: Car won't warm up > >on 2/2/04 10:26 AM, Newman, Christopher at CNewman@LSAC.org wrote: > > > >>but it sounds like even though the thermostat operates correctly most of the >>time, it may be starting to go. Would you agree ? >> >> > >That's certainly my bet. For whatever reason, these thermostats are known to >stick. Sometimes they physically fall apart: the bridge comes away from the >body of the t'stat. > >As to the coolant temp sensor, because it provides a temp reading to the ECU >it's possible for a dealer to check for proper operation by comparing the >reported coolant temp to a measured actual value. I don't know of any way >for an individual to do that, other than by buying an expensive professional >level code reader. However this sensor has no moving parts, so I'd guess >it's a lot less likely to fail than the t'stat, and very unlikely to stick >or fail in some intermittent fashion. It also seems very unlikely to me that >the coolant temp sensor could fail without noticeably affecting drivability >or throwing a CE light, especially on an OBD-II car. > >Neil >96 M3 > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: >Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > > > >
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#2. RE: s50 intake manifold loses low end? I don't think so - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 08:18:33 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: s50 intake manifold loses low end? I don't think so Chris wrote: Just got my m3 dyno'd. It is a 99 with ecis intake, s50 manifold, ert UDP and AA software. I don't see any big low-end torque losses here, although I don't have a baseline run. http://m3.digital7.com/m3dyno.jpg Nice data point Chris. First I'd like to point out that the recording for your data starts at 2500 rpm, second your peak torque is at about 4300. Stock configuration is at peak at 3900 rpm so your graph is indicating what folks have said in the past. Stock engine (96+) pull pretty good from lower than 2500 rpm. Thanks for the graphs. Kim Burgess
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#3. "Vanos dip" is what I call it - from Jim
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Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 08:47:33 -0800 From: Jim <rx3sp@lanset.com> Subject: "Vanos dip" is what I call it "If you look at the posted dyno run, there's a dip around 5700rpm" If you do a dyno run with vanos always on, and another at vanos always off, the graphs will cross right about 5600 rpm. We call this the vanos dip, and shows that vanos is a good thing. I would be worried about a sticky vanos piston, based on waht you said. -- Jay Morris
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#4. Part# for fog lamp knockout? - from AVUSM3@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 11:50:43 EST From: AVUSM3@aol.com Subject: Part# for fog lamp knockout? Hi Walter - It seems to depend on the year of the car. I took a look at the ETK and came up with the following part numbers: For Post 9/96 build cars: 51 11 8 222 445 left 51 11 8 222 446 right For Pre 9/96 build cars: 51 11 8 122 449 left 51 11 8 122 450 right I made this change on my car a few months ago. No more driving light worries. John Cloutier Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 18:22:19 -0500 From: "Walter Jordan" <walter@walterj.com> Subject: Part# for fog lamp knockout? Does anyone know the BMW part # for the plastic knockouts that go where the fog lamps are on M3s and coupes? Chester, I think I saw these on your car... I'm sick of replacing $38 lamps - 3rd this winter broke on my way home today and since the fogs on the M are useless for anything but decoration anyway its time to stop the madness. -- Walter Jordan
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#5. Apology to group. - from Jim
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Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 08:58:37 -0800 From: Jim <rx3sp@lanset.com> Subject: Apology to group. It has been brought to my attention that I was responsible for posting a link here to pictures that are copyrighted. I have corrected my mistake. http://www.ground-control.com/motorforce%20loser.htm Thanks for understanding, I would never want to be considered the kind of person that ripped off other peoples hard work. -- Jay Morris
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Apology to group. - from Dave Spragg
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Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 12:30:38 -0500 From: "Dave Spragg" <davelist@spragg.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Apology to group. LOL!!! Oh man I just about spit my java all over this laptop I shouldn't have afforded... That is just too good. I knew I shouldn't be reading this board just because I am procrastinating pounding my brain on this odd programming error... But I am feeling lazy this morning after staying up too late last night so here I am goofing off... I hereby raise a beer for myself and the other list member to you Jay and to Mr. Malfa and other guys out there that design and build things. In my biz it's usually just MSFT after your butt but at least they often have the decency to buy you out for silly money and then run you out of the office. ;) Dave Spragg dave@spragg.com 99 M3 street ( sold :( ) 92 318is #330 IP (95 M3 engine and suspension) 03 Toyota Tundra -----Original Message----- From: Jim [mailto:rx3sp@lanset.com] Sent: Monday, February 02, 2004 12:10 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Apology to group. Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 08:58:37 -0800 From: Jim <rx3sp@lanset.com> Subject: Apology to group. It has been brought to my attention that I was responsible for posting a link here to pictures that are copyrighted. I have corrected my mistake. http://www.ground-control.com/motorforce%20loser.htm Thanks for understanding, I would never want to be considered the kind of person that ripped off other peoples hard work. -- Jay Morris
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#7. Re: [E36M3] "Vanos dip" is what I call it - from NickG
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Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 12:47:21 -0500 From: "NickG" <nick@tech-nick.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] "Vanos dip" is what I call it I don't know what cars you've been dynoing, but the VANOS switchpoint is much lower than 5700rpm. If there's a dip in power at 5700rpm, it ain't the VANOS :) Nick > "If you look at the posted dyno run, there's a dip around 5700rpm" > If you do a dyno run with vanos always on, and another at vanos always off, > the graphs will cross right about 5600 rpm. We call this the vanos dip, and > shows that vanos is a good thing. I would be worried about a sticky vanos > piston, based on waht you said. > -- > Jay Morris
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#8. Re: [E36M3] "Vanos dip" is what I call it - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 13:13:00 -0500 From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] "Vanos dip" is what I call it nick@tech-nick.net writes: > I don't know what cars you've been dynoing, but the VANOS switchpoint is > much lower than 5700rpm. If there's a dip in power at > 5700rpm, it ain't the > VANOS :) I'll agree with Nick. I think the VaNoS (note the correct abbreviation - it is an abbreviation for three (German I presume) words. Something I once saw Jim Conforti correct in a post) transitions at 5,250 rpm. For some reason, 5,250 sticks in my mind. Again, it was from a post by Jim Conforti explaining the variable timing. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, Texas
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#9. Welding Preparations - from Ragnar
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Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 12:29:22 -0800 From: Ragnar <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Welding Preparations Hi, Gang- What steps are necessary to prepare our cars for chassis welding? In hunting down a clunk that sounded like a loose RSM, I discovered that the bracket holding the factory jack in place is cracked through and flopping around. I'm assuming I'll have to disconnect the battery, but what else? The computer? Alternator? I was going to TIG it, but my friend has moved his shop to the second floor of a building, so I'll most likely be MIG welding. Tacking it in place unless I fab a small support bracket to prevent this from happening again. Thanks in advance, Steve
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#10. Re: [E36M3] "Vanos dip" is what I call it - from Taner Halicioglu
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Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 11:12:02 -0800 From: Taner Halicioglu <taner@e36m3.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] "Vanos dip" is what I call it On Mon, Feb 02, 2004 at 12:20:15PM -0600, LoweSeaton@aol.com <LoweSeaton@aol.com> wrote: > I'll agree with Nick. I think the VaNoS (note the correct abbreviation - > it is an abbreviation for three (German I presume) words. Something I once > saw Jim Conforti correct in a post) transitions at 5,250 rpm. For some > reason, 5,250 sticks in my mind. Again, it was from a post by Jim Conforti > explaining the variable timing. Wel,l maybe you are thinking of 5252RPM - which is the crossover point for Torque/HP? Since: HP = Torque * (RPM / 5252) :) Altho, it wouldn't be completely unreasonable for VaNoS to kick in around that point :) Actually, a quick Google search reveals this post from Jim C.: [...] Vanos actuates (with a fully warm engine) at approx 900-1000 rpms.. Vanos DEactuates at 5200rpms.. If you look at your dyno chart around 5000-5500 you should see an approx 8hp dip caused by the stock transition point being too high.. Also, if you've ever felt like you get more midrange oomph at 2/3 throttle than full, you're not dreaming.. there is an override function that will DEactivate an otherwise activated VANOS based on a throttle position as a function of RPMS.. [...] (This was actually found in an archive on bmw-m.net ;-) ) -Taner