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#1. RE: [E36M3] "Vanos dip" is what I call it - from Newman, Christopher
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Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 14:15:47 -0500 From: "Newman, Christopher" <CNewman@LSAC.org> Subject: RE: [E36M3] "Vanos dip" is what I call it What sticks in my mind is this: Horsepower = Torque multiplied by RPM divided by 5,252. Therefore, Horsepower and Torque should equal each other at 5,252 RPM. In other words, the Horsepower and Torque curves should intersect at 5,252. Perhaps this is what you are thinking of ? > -----Original Message----- > From: LoweSeaton@aol.com [SMTP:LoweSeaton@aol.com] > Sent: Monday, February 02, 2004 1:20 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: Re: [E36M3] "Vanos dip" is what I call it > > Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 13:13:00 -0500 > From: LoweSeaton@aol.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] "Vanos dip" is what I call it > > nick@tech-nick.net writes: > > > I don't know what cars you've been dynoing, but the VANOS switchpoint is > > much lower than 5700rpm. If there's a dip in power at > > 5700rpm, it ain't the > > VANOS :) > > I'll agree with Nick. I think the VaNoS (note the correct abbreviation - > it is an abbreviation for three (German I presume) words. Something I > once saw Jim Conforti correct in a post) transitions at 5,250 rpm. For > some reason, 5,250 sticks in my mind. Again, it was from a post by Jim > Conforti explaining the variable timing. > > Lowell Seaton > '95 M3 > Dallas, Texas > > >
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#2. Front turn signals - from Newman, Christopher
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Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 15:30:29 -0500 From: "Newman, Christopher" <CNewman@LSAC.org> Subject: Front turn signals The recent questions about HID and fog lamps got me thinking about the front turn signals. I believe if the orange/amber plastic gets chipped or cracked, you can't just replace the plastic. You have to replace the entire turn signal assembly. Can anyone confirm this ? Does anyone have a write-up on how to remove and replace the front turn signals ? I checked the owners manual and did an internet/archive search and found some information, but perhaps you have a link handy I may have missed. Finally, I've seen numerous photos of cars who have swapped out their orange turn signals for white/clear. But does anyone have pictures of an M3 with the Smoked turn signals ? (Preferably on a silver or other light-colored car, but beggars can't be choosy). Thanks.
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#3. Oil Leak - Vanos? - from Michael Schaublin
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Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 15:24:22 -0500 From: "Michael Schaublin" <mike_schaublin@hotmail.com> Subject: Oil Leak - Vanos? I have recently noticed a small oil leak coming from the area under the Vanos unit and above the thermostat housing (94 325). Given the arctic conditions I've just been feeding the car oil (1qt every 2500 - 3000 miles, but the car has never used oil in its 133000 mile life). Please provide any advice on what to look for or what to expect. Thanks, Mike _________________________________________________________________ Let the new MSN Premium Internet Software make the most of your high-speed experience. http://join.msn.com/?pgmarket=en-us&page=byoa/prem&ST=1
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Welding Preparations - from Andrew E. Kalman
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Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 12:38:59 -0800 From: "Andrew E. Kalman" <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Welding Preparations Re: > What steps are necessary to prepare our cars for chassis >welding? In hunting down a clunk that sounded like a loose RSM, I >discovered that the bracket holding the factory jack in place is >cracked through and flopping around. > I'm assuming I'll have to disconnect the battery, but what >else? The computer? Alternator? I was going to TIG it, but my friend >has moved his shop to the second floor of a building, so I'll most >likely be MIG welding. Tacking it in place unless I fab a small >support bracket to prevent this from happening again. In theory, battery removal (actually, just removal of the + lead) ought to suffice, esp. since any TIG or MIG currents should be local to the area being welded. I unplugged my ECU as well, when my cage was installed, just to be on the safe side. I've never heard of anyone suffering blown electronics from welding, though. -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#5. RE: s50 intake manifold loses low end? I don't think so - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 13:37:07 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: s50 intake manifold loses low end? I don't think so Chris wrote: Just got my m3 dyno'd. It is a 99 with ecis intake, s50 manifold, ert UDP and AA software. I don't see any big low-end torque losses here, although I don't have a baseline run. I'm very happy with the results. I wonder how much power my safety-wired oil pump nut added. http://m3.digital7.com/m3dyno.jpg Chris Chris - The scales are a bit different so it is difficult to compare. But you are correct, the low end losses don't seem as significant as have been alluded. http://eurosporthighperformance.com/images/dyno/sb52cams.gif Kim Burgess
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Front turn signals - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 02 Feb 2004 15:17:34 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Front turn signals At 12:40 PM 2/2/04, Newman, Christopher wrote: >The recent questions about HID and fog lamps got me thinking about the front >turn signals. >I believe if the orange/amber plastic gets chipped or cracked, you can't >just replace the plastic. >You have to replace the entire turn signal assembly. Can anyone confirm >this ? Not sure I'm understanding - the turn signal "assembly" is simply the orange/amber plastic bit (plus the bulb holder, I would guess). There's really not much to it. >Does anyone have a write-up on how to remove and replace the front turn >signals ? I'm not sure if there's anything on-line, but it's fairly easy. 1. Open hood. 2. Look down into space between headlight & turn signal. You should see the toothed tab of the turn signal. 3. Using a long screwdriver or similar, press toothed tab while pulling out turn signal. If they haven't been removed in a while (or ever :-)), the rubber gasket will require some force to disengage it from the car. If that doesn't help, let me know, I can take a couple of digital photos. Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP/A5
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#7. Re: [E36M3] HID Retrofit - from Martin Bullen
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Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 18:56:53 -0500 From: Martin Bullen <vze322dw@verizon.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] HID Retrofit Thanks, Bob. I've seen Dan Stern's website, and generally agree with what he has to say on the subject of lighting. I have a little experience in lighting, and find him very knowledgeable. However, I've heard enough good things about the specific application of HID's to the ZKW ellipsoids to think that this is a likely exception to his rule(s). I tend to agree with Reid that the geometry of this application, combined with the controlled European beam pattern works pretty well. Martin On Sunday, February 1, 2004, at 10:30 PM, Bob Sutterfield wrote: > Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2004 20:22:34 -0700 > From: "Bob Sutterfield" <Bob@XC.Org> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] HID Retrofit > > Martin Bullen wrote: >> Thinking about retrofitting the ZKW H1 European lights >> in my M3 with HID. I recall that there's a company that >> makes a plug and play kit that works with the European >> connectors. Anybody know who that might be? > > First, read > http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/Hid/conversions/ > conversions.ht > ml > or > http://tinyurl.com/2cgt9 > -- > Bob Sutterfield > '9? E36 ///M3 in the hunt > '88 E28 535iS http://m535i.org #154 IHR FUNF > '93 T4 EV MV Weekender BELUGA > BMWCCA #169277 Rocky Mountain Chapter > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#8. RE;Re: [E36M3] New Engine Help - from B Stoll
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Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 19:56:14 -0600 From: "B Stoll" <bobstoll@ameritech.net> Subject: RE;Re: [E36M3] New Engine Help YES. Get more estimates!! It is one thing to "build an engine"... I've done a lawnmower engine ;-) its entirely different to "engineer" it. For example, what will the estimated forces be on the conn. rod ? What will be the cylinder pressure be required to achieve your crankshaft torque-target ? And how do you know the component selected can withstand it ? How will stock compnents hold up ? And on, and on .... yada ... yada and then there's the $budget ... Good luck! Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Lawrence" <95m3ltw@comcast.net> To: "E36M3" <> Sent: Monday, February 02, 2004 10:10 AM Subject: Re: [E36M3] New Engine Help > Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2004 10:54:50 -0500 > From: "Michael Lawrence" <95m3ltw@comcast.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] New Engine Help > > IMO, given the parties involved, I would strongly suggest checking other > known, respected BMW engine builders before proceeding. There are a few > folks on this list who have had services provide by certain parties you > mentioned, I will let them speak up if they desire. If it were my money, > I would be getting 2nd and 3rd opinions on the motor. > > Mike > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bill P" <billpanop@suscom.net> > To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Sent: Sunday, February 01, 2004 3:00 PM > Subject: [E36M3] New Engine Help > > > > Date: Sun, 01 Feb 2004 14:52:41 -0500 > > From: "Bill P" <billpanop@suscom.net> > > Subject: New Engine Help > > > > Finally building the proper motor to handle the power that > > I crave. I have not posted in a while so let me say a > > little about my car. It is a 1995 M3. Presently it has > > Scrick Cams, Headwork, Exhaust system and an ERT > > Supercharger and other mods. The car now makes about 340 > > HP at the wheels. Yes, I crave more power. > > > > I have recently bought a 1997 3.2L M3 engine and Pete > > McHenry is building it for me. The new motor is going to > > have low compression pistons (8.5:1) and stronger rods > > amount other internal stuff. Here is where you guys can > > pitch in and help. As much as I value Pete's word, he does > > not want to use the "standard" stuff ( i.e. JE Pistons and > > Pauter Rods). He says that JE's quality recently went down > > due to a merger with Wiesco and then a buyout by Delaware > > Elevator Company. He also add that Pauter (I-Beam) rods, > > due to there I-Beam design are marginally better then the > > stock BMW rods (H-Beam). He says by design, I-Beam rods > > are more prone to "twisting" under extreme (Supercharger, > > Turbo) conditions. He recommends custom built pistons by > > some race shop (forget the name), he swears by them. He > > also recommends BMW Diesel (H-Beam) rods. He says the > > Diesel rods are much stronger then the Pauter rods but > > also heavier, even heavier then the stock M3 rods. He made > > a comment as to how the diesel rods are designed to take > > extreme pressures all the time (a diesel has 25:1 comp > > ration). His comment is you can choose strength or weight > > saving and since this is a "street car" strength add > > reliability and longevity while robbing some HP. > > > > What is everyone's take on this? > > > > I kind of agree on the I-Beam vs. H-Beam thing. I have > > checked the internet and found that Crower (affordable) > > and Carrillo (expensive but the best) make some great > > H-Beam rods. I will ask him about these. > > > > Has anyone that used the Pauter rods or recent JE Pistons > > have any problem? Please comment as this project is taking > > shape very fast. > > > > Has anyone used any other piston or rods that I need to > > look at or has a comment about? > > > > Once the motor is built it will be getting another > > supercharger, and "roots type" true blower this time, > > making 14 PSI. > > > > Thank You > > > > Bill P > > > > > > ************************************************* > > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > > > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > > ************************************************* > > > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* >
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#9. RE: [E36M3] Front turn signals - from Newman, Christopher
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Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 11:37:48 -0500 From: "Newman, Christopher" <CNewman@LSAC.org> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Front turn signals Thanks Jim. By "assembly" I was referring to the orange/amber plastic, the bulb holder, the gasket, and any other parts of the turn signal as a whole unit. I was curious if each of the above pieces could be purchased separately. But it seems you have to buy everything as a whole unit. Thanks for offering to take pictures, but from the sounds of it, the procedure is pretty straight forward. Not sure when I'll attempt to remove the turn signal. Weather here is cold, and I fear I'll snap the tab or some other plastic piece. Thanks again. ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------- > At 12:40 PM 2/2/04, Newman, Christopher wrote: > >The recent questions about HID and fog lamps got me thinking about the > front > >turn signals. > >I believe if the orange/amber plastic gets chipped or cracked, you can't > >just replace the plastic. > >You have to replace the entire turn signal assembly. Can anyone confirm > >this ? > > Not sure I'm understanding - the turn signal "assembly" is simply the > orange/amber plastic bit (plus the bulb holder, I would guess). There's > really not much to it. > > >Does anyone have a write-up on how to remove and replace the front turn > >signals ? > > I'm not sure if there's anything on-line, but it's fairly easy. > 1. Open hood. > 2. Look down into space between headlight & turn signal. You should see > the > toothed tab of the turn signal. > 3. Using a long screwdriver or similar, press toothed tab while pulling > out > turn signal. If they haven't been removed in a while (or ever :-)), the > rubber gasket will require some force to disengage it from the car. > > If that doesn't help, let me know, I can take a couple of digital photos. > > > Jim Bassett > 1998 M3/4 > 1993 325is #44 JP/A5
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#10. Re: Paint protector? - from Bill Steele
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Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2004 11:35:39 -0800 (PST) From: Bill Steele <autoxcrazy@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Paint protector? I think it was something like RejectX. Bill Steele 99 M3 signature --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! SiteBuilder - Free web site building tool. Try it!
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#11. RE: [E36M3] Front turn signals - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 03 Feb 2004 11:37:14 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Front turn signals At 08:50 AM 2/3/04, Newman, Christopher talked about: >By "assembly" I was referring to the orange/amber plastic, the bulb holder, >the gasket, and any other parts of the turn signal as a whole unit. From what I recall, the gasket is bonded to the plastic. I'm not sure, but I would imagine the orange/amber plastic could be obtained separately from the bulb holder. (A quick check of the ETK shows separate p/n's for the indicator and the bulb socket.) Jim Bassett