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#1. Re: Power Steering Pump Noise - from Shane Kleinpeter
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Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 07:05:37 -0800 (PST) From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Power Steering Pump Noise > From: "Guillermo Molina" <drwillb@msn.com> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Power Steering Pump Noise > > Shane, I had what seems to be your exact problem. > Turned out to be the belt > idler pulley attached to the alternator. Once you > get the fan and the belt > off it's a 1 bolt job. About $30 at the dealer. > > Bill Molina > 95 M3 w/o chirping sounds > From: "Murray Roblin" <murray@farleyroblin.com> > My experience as well. You might choose to change > all the idler pulleys > at once (3 total), as they can fail and leave you > stranded. > > Murray Thanks guys. I had one of these replaced under warranty not all that long ago (mileage wise). I have a couple spares lying around the garage that came off the race car, so I'll replace the others. Is there a good way of determining which one has failed? Shane __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Finance: Get your refund fast by filing online. http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
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#2. Re: [E36M3] E36 M3 track pad (front and rear) - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 09:10:17 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36 M3 track pad (front and rear) "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> wrote: > > Why mess with success? I use R4-S year around. I swap fronts to > R4 for track days. Jay, I think Fernando is looking for track, not miracle pads. Both R4-S and R4 and inadequate for decent track use. In other news, everyone in TX is back in love with Hawk pads. Either good old Blues or HT14/10 as front/rear combo. What happened to this lists's perennial favorites - PF 90/97 pads? I liked the old PF-90s, but moved one to Hawk Blues before trying PF-97s Has PF stopped offering the E36M3 list discount? People moved on to other exotic compounds? Went underground with the PF affection? alex f > Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 20:36:07 -0600 > From: Fernando Mujica <fmujica@mac.com> > Subject: E36 M3 track pad (front and rear) > > What track pad would you recommend that are available both front and > rear? I don't want to mess with the braking balance of the car, so I > want the same pad compound all around. > > I have been using the PF R4-S in all four corners for > street/auto-x/track and have been relatively happy with them, but I'm > open for something different, even if they are track only pads. > > Thanks, > Fernando
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#3. Re: [E36M3] E36 M3 track pad (front and rear) - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 07:30:07 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36 M3 track pad (front and rear) Alex - Not sure I understand your reply. Are you saying Porterfields are not good track pads? Seems like "PF" is being used in reference to Porterfields (R4-S) and Performance Friction. Are we on the same page? Jay ----- Original Message ----- From: <alex.fadeev@verizon.com> To: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Cc: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2004 7:10 AM Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36 M3 track pad (front and rear) > > "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> wrote: > > > > Why mess with success? I use R4-S year around. I swap fronts to > > R4 for track days. > > Jay, > I think Fernando is looking for track, not miracle pads. > Both R4-S and R4 and inadequate for decent track use. > > In other news, everyone in TX is back in love with Hawk pads. Either good > old Blues or HT14/10 as front/rear combo. > > What happened to this lists's perennial favorites - PF 90/97 pads? I liked > the old PF-90s, but moved one to Hawk Blues before trying PF-97s > Has PF stopped offering the E36M3 list discount? > People moved on to other exotic compounds? > Went underground with the PF affection? > > alex f > > > > Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2004 20:36:07 -0600 > > From: Fernando Mujica <fmujica@mac.com> > > Subject: E36 M3 track pad (front and rear) > > > > What track pad would you recommend that are available both front and > > rear? I don't want to mess with the braking balance of the car, so I > > want the same pad compound all around. > > > > I have been using the PF R4-S in all four corners for > > street/auto-x/track and have been relatively happy with them, but I'm > > open for something different, even if they are track only pads. > > > > Thanks, > > Fernando > >
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#4. RE: [E36M3] E36 M3 track pad (front and rear) - from Bob Sutterfield
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Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 08:51:17 -0700 From: "Bob Sutterfield" <Bob@XC.Org> Subject: RE: [E36M3] E36 M3 track pad (front and rear) Regarding "I don't want to mess with the braking balance of the car, so I want the same pad compound all around", I would suggest that finding a correct combination of f/r compounds is essential to getting the balance right - so you won't have to mess with it any more. I like Performance Friction 90 in front (ducted above 80F ambient) with Porterfield R4 in back. Haven't decided what I'll switch to later, when I wear through the PF90 stockpile I hoarded when I heard they were going NLA. Porterfield still offers a generous SIG discount, and they carry their own brand along with Hawk and Performance Friction. So do various SIG sponsors (see below).
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#5. Re: Camber Shims - from Neil Maller
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Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 10:55:01 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Camber Shims on 2/9/04 5:34 PM, Colin_S_Whelan@rrfc.raytheon.com wrote: > I was wondering if you could help to clarify the thickness of washer > (between the low strut mounting point and the hub) that you need to add to > increase camber. > > From the archives, I understand that I need a M12x1.75x25 bolts in 10.9 > grade when using the washers. > > What size (diameter of hole?, outer diameter?) and thickness would I use to > gain -0.5? Some people say 0.04" = -0.5 degrees, while others say 1/16"= > 0.063" = -0.5 degrees. The short answer is that you get pretty much 1 degree of extra negative camber per 0.080"/2mm of shim. The longer answer is that the measured effective pivot length is about 4.5", so: tanA = S/4.5 where A is the incremental camber angle and S is the shim thickness. You can then solve for A based on various values of S or vice versa using a scientific calculator or an Excel spreadsheet: A = tan^-1(S/4.5) and S = 4.5 * tanA The bolts are M12, so either 12mm or 1/2" ID washers work fine. Use hardened and ground washers; regular washers are just stamped, and vary in thickness. Longer bolts are advised, and may be essential depending on the thickness of shims used. The stock bolts have only 20mm of shank, with a thick captive backing washer taking up maybe 3mm of that. One normally aims to have an amount of thread engagement equal to or exceeding the diameter of any bolt, and it won't hurt to have a modestly too long bolt. You'll need to provide your own backing washers for any replacement bolts. You must Loctite the bolts on assembly. You may need to go to an industrial fastener distributor to get the proper sizes and quality. Neil 96 M3
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#6. RE: [E36M3] E36 M3 track pad (front and rear) - from Walter Jordan
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Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 10:55:57 -0500 From: "Walter Jordan" <walter@walterj.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] E36 M3 track pad (front and rear) >What happened to this lists's perennial favorites - PF 90/97 pads? I liked >the old PF-90s, but moved one to Hawk Blues before trying PF-97s >Has PF stopped offering the E36M3 list discount? >People moved on to other exotic compounds? >Went underground with the PF affection? Dunno, I love the PF-97 pads. I have beat the snot out of 'em and never had fade. They feel better underfoot than the Hawk blues I had before, etc... blah, blah, blah Chester, what don't you like about them?
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#7. Re: [E36M3] E36 M3 track pad (front and rear) - from Taner Halicioglu
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Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 08:04:13 -0800 From: Taner Halicioglu <taner@e36m3.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36 M3 track pad (front and rear) On Tue, Feb 10, 2004 at 09:24:35AM -0600, alex.fadeev@verizon.com <alex.fadeev@verizon.com> wrote: > Both R4-S and R4 and inadequate for decent track use. While I'll agree that the R4-S is not really good for track use, the R4 has been pretty good for me. I've really only tracked my S4, but I'd imagine brake pad performance should be pretty equivalent between cars :) Recently, I've been using Pagid Orange pads on the track w/ good success. And yeah, someone else commented on using R4-S pads all the time - which I've done a few times, too :) Altho now I run Axxis Ultimates on the street. -Taner -- Taner Halicioglu <taner@e36m3.org> 1997 Cosmos Black BMW M3/4 2000 Santorin Blue Audi S4
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#8. Valve Train Maintenance on club race car - from KLchmn@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 14:50:59 -0500 From: KLchmn@aol.com Subject: Valve Train Maintenance on club race car Gruppe, The head is coming off my '95 M3 (4/95 production, 46k miles). Besides the valve spring retainers, what should I replace/maintain/do to the valve train? Remember, I'm in stock class so no bigger cams/valves/nitrous/solid rocket propellent type solutions please. Any "while you are in there" type things that I should take care of? Thank you. Kirk Lachman Sin City Chapter '95 M3 #21 I-stock
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Valve Train Maintenance on club race car - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 12:09:09 -0800 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Valve Train Maintenance on club race car Hi, I'm not an expert but is testing the flow of the head and smoothing/cleaning up the ports allowed? What about polishing? Kent KLchmn@aol.com wrote: >Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 14:50:59 -0500 >From: KLchmn@aol.com >Subject: Valve Train Maintenance on club race car > >Gruppe, > >The head is coming off my '95 M3 (4/95 production, 46k miles). > >Besides the valve spring retainers, what should I replace/maintain/do to the valve train? Remember, I'm in stock class so no bigger cams/valves/nitrous/solid rocket propellent type solutions please. > >Any "while you are in there" type things that I should take care of? > >Thank you. > >Kirk Lachman >Sin City Chapter >'95 M3 #21 I-stock > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: >Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > > > >
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Valve Train Maintenance on club race car - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2004 15:20:21 -0500 From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Valve Train Maintenance on club race car Kirk, You have very low mileage for a '95. Why are you R&R the valvetrain? Good luck on finding a mechanic or parts department that knows what you are talking about regarding the updated valve retainers. When I recently replaced my exhaust valves, neither one of our two local club tech advisors knew dittley squat about valve retainers on early 1995 M3's. Both claimed to be Master Certified BMW mechanics for what good that was. If you are not doing the work yourself, I can tell you one repair shop in Dallas to avoid. The mechanic didn't know anything about the valve retainers, but he did recommend I replace the cam sprockets. If you are hearing some noise, you might put them on your "replace" list too. Lowell Seaton '95 M3 Dallas, Texas --------------- KLchmn writes: > The head is coming off my '95 M3 (4/95 production, 46k miles). > > Besides the valve spring retainers, what should I replace/maintain/do to the valve train? Remember, I'm in stock class so no bigger cams/valves/nitrous/solid rocket propellent type solutions please. > > Any "while you are in there" type things that I should take > care of?