-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. RE: Looking for Underpanel Reinforcement tips! - from Dorffer, Rich
Top
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 14:16:48 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: RE: Looking for Underpanel Reinforcement tips! > Can anyone supply instructions/images for reinforcement of the lower panel attach tabs? Pics and info sent off digest. :-) Regards, Rich - aspiring to be like Neil....
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Fuel mileage - from James Clay
Top
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 14:32:44 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Fuel mileage Did anyone figure out how to change this without the add on part yet? James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Re: Looking for Underpanel Reinforcement tips! - from Neil Maller
Top
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 15:27:19 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Looking for Underpanel Reinforcement tips! on 2/13/04 1:44 PM, "Murray Roblin" <murray@farleyroblin.com> wrote: > No photos, but I took a soda can, cut out rectangular sections, folded > them over and used them to sandwich the existing panel holes. I glued > them in place with epoxy, drilled the aluminum - worked fine. Others > have used pop rivets to hold the aluminum supports in place. I'll point out that gluing anything to the undertray with epoxy, or any other glue I've tried, is amazingly ineffective. In fact epoxy peels right off, complete with faithful mirror-images of the moulded part numbers, logos, etc. If you want sheet metal reinforcements to be really effective, they need to be pop-riveted, so that the load can be spread over a reasonable area of plastic. Neil 96 M3
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. RE: [E36M3] Re: Looking for Underpanel Reinforcement tips! - from Murray Roblin
Top
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 15:39:42 -0800 From: "Murray Roblin" <murray@farleyroblin.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Looking for Underpanel Reinforcement tips! MDR wrote" on 2/13/04 1:44 PM, "Murray Roblin" <murray@farleyroblin.com> wrote: >> No photos, but I took a soda can, cut out rectangular sections, folded >> them over and used them to sandwich the existing panel holes. I glued >> them in place with epoxy, drilled the aluminum - worked fine. Others >> have used pop rivets to hold the aluminum supports in place. Neil responded: > I'll point out that gluing anything to the undertray with > epoxy, or any other glue I've tried, is amazingly > ineffective. In fact epoxy peels right off, complete with > faithful mirror-images of the moulded part numbers, logos, etc. > > If you want sheet metal reinforcements to be really > effective, they need to be pop-riveted, so that the load can > be spread over a reasonable area of plastic. > MDR rebuts: In my case, the epoxy worked fine. I did, however, also use pop-rivets to ensure that the piece stayed in place. Unfortunately, the next piece that failed was the plastic nuts which are "embedded" via press fit and external scaling into the frame parts. So I'm building an underpanel.
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. RE: [E36M3] What neg camber do I get with switched 96+ strut hats on a 1995?? - from Tim Williams
Top
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 20:54:56 -0500 From: "Tim Williams" <willtj@bellsouth.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] What neg camber do I get with switched 96+ strut hats on a 1995?? Marc, I did this for my 95 recently. Stock springs / shocks = camber around 1 degree. 96 hats swapped with Bilstein shocks / stock springs = camber around 1.5 degrees. Some may say the Bilsteins are reducing the camber gain, but 1/2 degree is the gain I was told to expect from the swap. Regards, Tim > Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2004 23:55:43 EST > From: Msebmwman@aol.com > Subject: What neg camber do I get with switched 96+ strut > hats on a 1995?? > > All; > > I'm about ready to put some 96+ front strut hats (upper strut > bearings) on my > 1995 M3. If I switch the 96+ hats left to right and right to > left and keep > the arrows oriented the way they should be when the strut > hats are in the > correct orientation, how much negative camber will this get > me if my springs are > stock? > > If my springs are the LTW springs which are slightly lower by > about 0.5 - > 0.75 inches than stock, how much negative camber will this get me? > > Can or should I orient the arrows differently to get even > more negative > camber? If so, what are the downsides (screwed up caster? and > what will that > mean?). > > Thanks for your help, > Marc > 95M3 track dog > >
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6.CD Changer - No power - from marc@plante.com
Top
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 20:53:08 -0500 (EST) From: marc@plante.com Subject: <Misc> CD Changer - No power I have an early model CD changer (93 325i) that has no power. I can trace power past the fuse and into the connector to the board inside the changer, but the unit does not power up. Any obvious ideas before I pitch changer #2 in the trash? The first one faioled after ejecting cartridges across the trunk for a while. Not sure if I'll go aftermarket or explore adapting a portable MP3 player to the head unit at the changer connector. Thanks, Marc Plante E36 325i, 218k Vienna, VA
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Re: Camber Shims - from David Crum
Top
Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2004 19:04:17 -0800 From: "David Crum" <dgcrum@jps.net> Subject: Re: Camber Shims Using the formulas posted by Neil Maller, I did some quick calcs in Excel and looked up a few washers in McMaster-Carr. The following are 1/2" ID shims. They are shown with the resulting angle for minimum, nominal and maximum sizes allowed by the tolerance of the shim. These are plain steel. Stainless are available as well but the tolerances aren't as tight. Shim .031" +/- .0015 $2.85/10 McMaster-Carr; Catalog 109; page 3007; P/N 3088A432: ANGLE S - inch S - mm 0.376 0.0295 0.749 0.395 0.0310 0.787 0.414 0.0325 0.826 Shim .047" +/- .002 $3.22/10 McMaster-Carr; Catalog 109; page 3007; P/N 3088A452: ANGLE S - inch S - mm 0.573 0.045 1.143 0.598 0.047 1.194 0.624 0.049 1.245 Metric are also shown on the same page, but are available only in .3, .5 and 1.0 mm. David Crum 96 M3 89 325i
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Radio Screw Covers - from Martin Bullen
Top
Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2004 15:34:02 -0500 From: Martin Bullen <vze322dw@verizon.net> Subject: Radio Screw Covers Are the little "flaps" that cover the screws that hold the radio in place available separately? I recall seeing a post that indicated that they were, but couldn't find anything in the archives. The radio is a CD43 CD player from a Z3, if anybody's feeling up to looking up part numbers. TIA, Martin Bullen '95 M3 '97 Z3 2.8
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Z3/MRoadster Parts for Sale - from chrisosborne1@adelphia.net
Top
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 7:55:09 -0500 From: <chrisosborne1@adelphia.net> Subject: Z3/MRoadster Parts for Sale Please post the following items for sale in the next issue of your publication: Z3/Mroadster parts Clear side lamps (pair) $30, illuminated shift knob $90. Chris: 703 726 0338; chrisosborne1@adelphia.net (VA) Thanks...Chris Osborne BMWCCA #92573
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. WTB: Spare rim+tire - from Shelhart2@aol.com
Top
Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2004 21:13:31 EST From: Shelhart2@aol.com Subject: WTB: Spare rim+tire I sold my Contours and replaced them with BBS RC's. Unfortunatley, I have no spare. Does anyone have a reasonably priced spare with a good tire? Email me privately. Shel 1998 M3 Orlando, Fl