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#1. Power steering noise - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 10:25:28 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Power steering noise > Last week while driving I lost my power steering. > Upon arriving home I found that the rubber to metal > connection on the reservoir to rack line was > separated. I replaced the line, added fluid, bled > the system and added more, and power steering returned. Hopefully you used ATF. > However, there is now a groaning noise that occurs > when I turn the wheel at low speeds. If I'm going > over 20 or so the noise is not present. I suppose > that I may have fried my pump or my rack. Does > anyone have experience with this and know what a dead or > dying rack or pump sounds like? I would think that > if either was truly gone I would not have power > steering, which I definitely have. I would suspect the groaning noise is attributable to air in the system (as you likely lost a lot of fluid if not all of it). It can take a while to work it out or you can put your car on stands/lift and work the steering back and forth to try to work out the air. I would guess you don't hear/notice the groaning at speed due to other noises and the fact that your steering inputs are likely slower and with less input/movement. Regards, Rich
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#2. Re: Help Car won't warm up - from Jason Olin
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Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 07:47:25 -0800 (PST) From: Jason Olin <jtolin64@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Help Car won't warm up I just had the exact same experience this week-- intermittent check engine light combined with lack of warmth. This led to Oxygen sensor replacement (one only), followed by the mechanic realizing that it was the thermostat (after the check engine light came back on). The bad news? They didn't tighten the upper radiator hose and the car almost overheated this morning. Jason 97 M3 2-door __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard - Read only the mail you want. http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Underdrive pulleys? - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 10:01:28 -0600 From: "Jamie Howton" <jhowton@fotofab.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Underdrive pulleys? -----Original Message----- From: Robert Liu [mailto:bob_a_liu@yahoo.com] <SNIP> I am running in the North Carolina with the fan delete mod, and have had no issues with overheating. <SNIP> I am sure that many will echo your comments as would I until this morning. I too have done the fan delete mod with no problems except this morning; while stuck in rush hour traffic my temperature gauge started to head toward the red zone (it normally points at the center mark) the oil temp was hovering around 220F and climbing slowly with 39F ambient temperatures. I opened the sunroof and cranked the heat which brought the temperature down to normal again. When I finally made it to work, I opened the hood. The electric cooling fan wasn't working at all. As soon as I touched the connector for the dual speed fan switch, the electric fan came on, when I let go of the connector it turned off. The switch is less than a year old, the contacts look clean and shiny, but still the electrical connection seems flaky. I took a small screwdriver and bent the contacts inside the connector so that they make a more positive connection with the pins on the fan switch, that seems to have solved the problem for now. I did notice that the insulation on one of the wires going into the connector is cracked although the wires that are exposed do not seem to be corroded. I am going to remove the connector this weekend and maybe replace or re-shrink wrap the wires. My point is that perhaps most people have had no problems with the fan delete mod, however the viscous fan provides an extra layer of "insurance" against failure of the electric cooling fan. As our cars age, flaky electrical connections are going to become more and more of an issue. I still haven't decided whether I am going to re-install the viscous fan yet, but I am thinking about it. Just my $.02. Regards Jamie Howton 2002 330i 1995 M3 with flaky cooling.
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#4. Re: Oxygen Sensors (Help Car won't warm up) - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 11:19:35 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Oxygen Sensors (Help Car won't warm up) on 2/19/04 10:14 AM, MFWM3@aol.com wrote: > At $250 per sensor, replacing 4 sensor is a painful process. I'll say - about like bending over to pick up the soap in the prison shower, and it's called the same thing. I haven't priced an oxygen sensor at a dealer recently, but mail order prices seem to be in the $100-150 range each, depending on make, model and other options. Neil 96 M3
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#5. Installing new Koni inserts and shocks. - from Bill Steele
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Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 08:23:17 -0800 (PST) From: Bill Steele <autoxcrazy@yahoo.com> Subject: Installing new Koni inserts and shocks. I've been a longtime list lurker and have really learned alot about my car. I really appreciate all of the advice and excellent write-ups on DIY repair work. I have a stock 99 M3 (except for an xbrace and TME's) with about 60k miles -- some auto-x -- no track yet (but I want to). I'm planning on replacing the rear shocks (Koni sport - yellow), shock mounts (e46 mounts w/reinforcement plates), front struts (Koni inserts), and rear trailing arm bushings (OEM bushings w/Turner reinforcement kit). I plan to buy the Koni strut socket tool and maybe the RTAB tool sold by Victory Products. Last night I popped off the black plastic caps that cover the front strut towers and noticed how far back the hole is that exposes the top of the strut. The hole is partially covered by the sheet metal of the shock tower. It didn't look like it would be possible to get a socket in there to tighten the strut nut. I know alot of other people have successfully done this -- so I'm hopeful that I can too. Are there issues getting access through this hole to tighten the nut? Will the adjustment tool fit in there w/o issue? Thanks in advance. Bill Steele 1999 M3 Gaithersburg, MD --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard - Read only the mail you want.
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Installing new Koni inserts and shocks. - from Chris Teague
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Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 09:21:21 -0800 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Installing new Koni inserts and shocks. Bill, I tighten the top of the strut when the struts are off the car. Then just bolt them back into place. No need to try to tighten them on the car. Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 08:23:17 -0800 (PST) > From: Bill Steele <autoxcrazy@yahoo.com> > Subject: Installing new Koni inserts and shocks. > > > Last night I popped off the black plastic caps that cover the front strut towers and noticed how far back the hole is that exposes the top of the strut. > The hole is partially covered by the sheet metal of the shock tower. It didn't look like it would be possible to get a socket in there to tighten the strut > nut. I know alot of other people have successfully done this -- so I'm hopeful that I can > too. Are there issues getting access through this hole to tighten the nut? Will the adjustment tool fit in there w/o issue?
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Installing new Koni inserts and shocks. - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 11:59:53 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Installing new Koni inserts and shocks. Bill Steele <autoxcrazy@yahoo.com> wrote: > > I have a stock 99 M3 (except for an xbrace and TME's) with > about 60k miles [...] I'm planning on replacing the rear > shocks (Koni sport - yellow), shock mounts (e46 mounts > w/reinforcement plates), front struts (Koni inserts), and > rear trailing arm bushings (OEM bushings w/Turner reinforcement > kit). I plan to buy the Koni strut socket tool and maybe > the RTAB tool sold by Victory Products. I've done all of the above and a). you don't need a tool to do the struts; b). Victory RTAB tool leaves a lot to be desired for removing '96+ RTABs. Even with a Sawz-all, removing the side skirt off the old RTAB is a PITA. > Last night I popped off the black plastic caps that cover > the front strut towers and noticed how far back the hole is > that exposes the top of the strut. The hole is partially > covered by the sheet metal of the shock tower. It didn't > look like it would be possible to get a socket in there to > tighten the strut nut. You really don't want to remove the nut while the strut is still in the car. If you do, the spring will expand as you remove the strut cartridge. Take the assembled strut/spring/camber plate combo out of the car, compress the spring and then zip the nut on/off the strut. BTW, most cheapo 6-sided deep sockets will work for this purpose. alex f
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Short shift options - from Chester Wong
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Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 10:23:47 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Short shift options I second the other lister's vote for a Ron Stygar SS. It's what I recommend to all my friends and I just shake my head in disappointment when I see them go against that advice and buy the pricier alternative. I guess they think more money equals better quality. I've seen a fair number of the latest and greatest from the aftermarket and I was not impressed at all. FWIW, Chester --- eevans@planetc.com wrote: > There's been a lot of discussion about using the Z8 shifter on E30 M3s as > an alternative shifter. Does anyone know or have experience w/ another > shifter for the E36 M3? I want to retain that silky smooth shifting feel, > but a shorter throw would be a welcome improvement. I haven't had much > satisfaction w/ the commercial short shift applications available. It > sounds like the Z8 shifter might be a great compromise if it fits and is > actually a shorter throw. What say you? =====
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Short shift options - from Scott Yu
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Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 10:46:17 -0800 (PST) From: Scott Yu <segascott@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Short shift options Wuzzup Chester? One thing I would want to mention is that I've had the Stygar shifter in my car for about 3 years now, and it's loosened up considerably. Guess it's not that surprising, since again it is made from stock parts. I do find myself wondering how well an Evo 3 would hold up, however. scott --- Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> wrote: > Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 10:23:47 -0800 (PST) > From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Short shift options > > I second the other lister's vote for a Ron Stygar > SS. It's what I recommend to > all my friends and I just shake my head in > disappointment when I see them go > against that advice and buy the pricier alternative. > I guess they think more > money equals better quality. I've seen a fair > number of the latest and > greatest from the aftermarket and I was not > impressed at all. > > FWIW, > Chester > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard - Read only the mail you want. http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: Help Car won't warm up - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 12:15:24 -0800 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Help Car won't warm up Hi, Does anybody ever read the fault codes when you go to a shop? I bought a fault code reader so I would be less likely to have someone experiment on my car with my wallet. Kent Jason Olin wrote: >Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 07:47:25 -0800 (PST) >From: Jason Olin <jtolin64@yahoo.com> >Subject: Re: Help Car won't warm up > >I just had the exact same experience this week-- >intermittent check engine light combined with lack of >warmth. This led to Oxygen sensor replacement (one >only), followed by the mechanic realizing that it was >the thermostat (after the check engine light came back >on). The bad news? They didn't tighten the upper >radiator hose and the car almost overheated this >morning. > >Jason >97 M3 2-door > >__________________________________ >Do you Yahoo!? >Yahoo! Mail SpamGuard - Read only the mail you want. >http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: >Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com >BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > > > >