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#1. Re: Installing Koni struts - from Chip Mitchell
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Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 08:04:58 -0500 From: Chip Mitchell <chipm@uga.edu> Subject: Re: Installing Koni struts >Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2004 14:32:01 -0800 (PST) >From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> >Go to Sears and pick yourself up a 1/2 drive deep socket that will accomodate >the nut. Grind flats into it so you can use a 1" or whatever the size is open >ended wrench. > >FWIW, >Chester Or, forget the grinder all together and use a pipe wrench. Faster and easier. ChipM
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#2. M3 Control Arms - from Chip Mitchell
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Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 08:24:11 -0500 From: Chip Mitchell <chipm@uga.edu> Subject: M3 Control Arms I've started obsessing over the various 3-series control arms now that its time to replace mine. I have a question that one of you may be able to answer. One thing that I've never noticed until now is that the two control arms on my car are different. The right side is original from the factory and has seven holes along the entire length of the arm. It has a BMW stamp on the arm and balljoint. Forgot the p/n already, but the last three started with a 1. The left side arm was replaced following an accident in 8/97 and has only four holes, with the outer part of the arm being solid. It also has a BMW stamp (and was purchased from/installed by the dealer). I *think* the number was 865, but i'm not sure as I was looking through a mirror. Both inner ball joints are stamped with "BMW 131." Is one or the other of these arms incorrect? Was this a production change? When I buy arms now, which will I get?
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#3. More control amrs - from Chip Mitchell
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Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 08:30:55 -0500 From: Chip Mitchell <chipm@uga.edu> Subject: More control amrs With apologies for not putting all of this in one email, these are photos of my arms borrowed from some good parts suppliers. My right arm is like this: http://www.bavarianautosport.com/assets/imglib500/31122228461 ..jpg and my left arm is like this: http://img.eautopartscatalog.com/live/L200077902OES.JPG In addition, I'm still not sure of the difference between these arms and the E30 steel arms, but I assume it is significant though invisible.
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#4. Re: Cracked head - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 09:01:24 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Cracked head on 2/20/04 12:24 AM, GregKono@aol.com wrote: > 14 mo.(and 10k miles) ago replaced a head gasket and had the head > straightened(radiator hose snafu and a overheated situation at the track). Car > started running ruff and consuming antifreeze. Back to the mechanic for ? > another head gasket only to find the head had failed it's pressure test. Fine > crack in #4 cylinder (same cylinder that burned very hot and removed all the > electrodes off that spark plug at the time of the first heead gasket > replacement) between the intake/exhaust valves. Rebuilt head put on and the > mechanic encouraging me to remove the JC Conti chip. Says thats the reason for > my failed head!? Put the chip and snorkel on at 18k miles in '99. Now have 59k > miles. Any thoughts?? There are tons of people running cars with JC (and other) chips on street and track. In fact as I go through the student entries for our April Putnam school, I note that at least half the chip-able cars have been chipped. Applying Occam's Razor (a tool that should be in every garage) the cause of your head damage is almost certainly the obvious one: you had an unrelated cooling system problem and overheated on track. The E36 M3 head is pretty sensitive to this, which is why care and attention to the cooling system is worthwhile. Neil 96 M3
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#5. Re: GC koni inserts and stock strut hats - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 09:23:19 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: GC koni inserts and stock strut hats on 2/20/04 12:24 AM, Zachary Eyler-Walker <zwalker@cs.utk.edu> wrote: > One thing, though: It seemed like there really wasn't enough of the > threaded section on the konis for the big nylock nut. It was difficult to > get enough purchase on the inner hex section with the small socket on the > ratchet extension, because the nut was just barely screwed down to the > point of the nylon insert making full contact with the threads.. I wound > up tightening them pretty tight, but it just seemed like the stack height > of the strut hat and the various washers and so on was too thick. > > This was with ground control front strut housings, the shorter shocks, and > associated other hardware, but stock strut hats. No funny noises or > anything, but I guess I'm curious if I somehow screwed something up, or if > this is just the way this works out. Surely the GC housings, which are only at the bottom end of the strut, can't affect the stackup at the top? That's determined uniquely by the length of that portion of the shock shaft from the step on upward, and by the parts you assemble there. I've assembled several sets of Konis, both single and double adjustable, and have always had plenty of thread for full engagement of a Nylok shaft nut. Are you sure you have the thrust system parts correctly assembled? And confirming what somebody else mentioned, the torque value for the strut shaft nut is quite low. I forget what Koni says, but BMW specs a modest 32 ft-lb for the stock shock, so you definitely should *not* be whaling on this nut. Neil 96 M3
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#6. Driver's side oversteer - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 09:26:16 -0500 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: Driver's side oversteer Gruppe, My car is not so stable under right hand turns/sweepers. A bit of history, 70+K miles, 6 months ago I replaced the Rear trailing arm bushing with Ground Control inserts, Bilsteins/Eibachs and had the car aligned. It handled just fine (track tested at Road Atlanta). I have not tracked it for 4 months and, recently, while exiting ramps, I can feel the rear wanting to step out. This morning I pushed it a little hard and had to correct the oversteer. Left hand turns are a breeze. Shocks and swaybars look fine. I have had these cars for a long time and know when the RTAB is shot, they are a night mare. I did the WOT test (and let go of the gas, she pointed straight). I cannot think of anything else except maybe the alignment. Any suggestions? What else should I be looking for? Thanks in advance, Ahmad
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Driver's side oversteer - from Bob Sutterfield
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Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 07:58:54 -0700 From: "Bob Sutterfield" <Bob@XC.Org> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Driver's side oversteer Ahmad Lutfeali wrote: > My car is not so stable under right hand turns/sweepers... > Left hand turns are a breeze. Has your static corner-weighting changed this winter? http://www.weightwatchers.com :-)
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Driver's side oversteer - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 07:06:14 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Driver's side oversteer Could be too much slop in the LCA bushing, allowing the toe to change under extreme loading. I've had a similar condition on a long right hander near my home. But, it doesn't seem to be a problem at the track. The only difference I can figure is the trcak is fairly smooth and the public road has some bumps that load/unload the right suspension while hard in the turn near home. A few years ago I replaced a bent LCA on that side. The suspension and alignment are fine. Still feels funny, unnerving, when getting after it on that sweeper. Jay > Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 09:26:16 -0500 > From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> > Subject: Driver's side oversteer > > Gruppe, > > My car is not so stable under right hand turns/sweepers. A bit of > history, 70+K miles, 6 months ago I replaced the Rear trailing arm > bushing with Ground Control inserts, Bilsteins/Eibachs and had the car > aligned. It handled just fine (track tested at Road Atlanta). I have not > tracked it for 4 months and, recently, while exiting ramps, I can feel > the rear wanting to step out. This morning I pushed it a little hard and > had to correct the oversteer. Left hand turns are a breeze. Shocks and > swaybars look fine. I have had these cars for a long time and know when > the RTAB is shot, they are a night mare. I did the WOT test (and let go > of the gas, she pointed straight). I cannot think of anything else > except maybe the alignment. Any suggestions? What else should I be > looking for? > > Thanks in advance, > > Ahmad
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#9. RE: Need P/N or Source: E36 Foglight Blanks - from Riley, Scott
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Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 09:00:36 -0600 From: "Riley, Scott" <sriley@cardinalcapital.com> Subject: RE: Need P/N or Source: E36 Foglight Blanks Found it in my ETK this morning... Left: 51 11 8 122 449 Right: 51 11 8 122 450 Thanks for the help, Alex. Scott -----Original Message----- From: Riley, Scott Sent: Thursday, February 19, 2004 10:56 PM To: club-racing-list@bimmers.com; E36 M3 Digest Subject: Need P/N or Source: E36 Foglight Blanks I am looking for the plastic cover that replaces the foglights when you remove them. Apparently, I lost one in the last race and just noticed it. Thanks, Scott
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#10. Motorsport Strut Bar ?? - from Robert Manger
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Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2004 10:08:36 -0500 From: "Robert Manger" <Robert_Manger@Mastercard.com> Subject: Motorsport Strut Bar ?? I remember a recent post regarding another nut that can be used with the Motorsport strut bar that doesn't rust. Anyone have an idea of the part number? I know about the JTD ones that are available, but would rather just go to the local dealer to pick them up if they are available. TIA, Rob