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#1. Timing Chain & VANOS Replacement - Cost Estimate? - from Mark Siismets
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Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 19:40:58 -0800 (PST) From: Mark Siismets <msiismets@yahoo.com> Subject: Timing Chain & VANOS Replacement - Cost Estimate? My '95 M3 with 103,000 miles is having trouble passing the low speed emissions test here in Houston. After considerable trouble-shooting, the shop believes that the valve timing is off due to slack in the timing chain. They are recommending replacement of the timing chain and the various VANOS components. My question - how much would one reasonably expect such repairs to cost (labor hours and parts)? Thanks, Mark '95 M3 __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Get better spam protection with Yahoo! Mail. http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Timing Chain & VANOS Replacement - Cost Estimate? - from DocWyte
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Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 20:04:33 -0800 (PST) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Timing Chain & VANOS Replacement - Cost Estimate? Mark, That seems a little far fetched. I assume you've done all the basics, (plugs, O2 sensor, fuel filter) etc? I'd take the car into emmissions testing just *smoking* hot. Just beat the bejesus out of it for at least 30 minutes before you test it and if you have to wait, don't turn the car off. Betcha it passes... -josh --- Mark Siismets <msiismets@yahoo.com> wrote: > Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 19:40:58 -0800 (PST) > From: Mark Siismets <msiismets@yahoo.com> > Subject: Timing Chain & VANOS Replacement - Cost > Estimate? > > My '95 M3 with 103,000 miles is having trouble > passing the low speed > emissions test here in Houston. After considerable > trouble-shooting, > the shop believes that the valve timing is off due > to slack in the > timing chain. They are recommending replacement of > the timing chain > and the various VANOS components. My question - how > much would one > reasonably expect such repairs to cost (labor hours > and parts)? > > Thanks, > Mark > '95 M3 > > __________________________________ > Do you Yahoo!? > Get better spam protection with Yahoo! Mail. > http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance > http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > ===== __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Get better spam protection with Yahoo! Mail. http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Upper Brake Light Doesn't... - from Alain van der Heide
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Date: Sun, 29 Feb 2004 21:58:16 -0600 From: "Alain van der Heide" <ajvdh1@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Upper Brake Light Doesn't... Is your "third" brake light mounted at the base of the rear window, or do you have a factory trunk wing? If it's the latter, I'd check out the wiring harness for the trunk, especially since you're also having a problem with your trunk light whose switch is on that wiring harness. The harness is on the left side of the trunk, and you'll notice that it kinks pretty badly every time you close the trunk. Eventually, the insulation on the individual wires inside can crack, or the wires themselves can break. It's a known trouble spot for E36s. I was able to get at the wires by popping the grommet where the harness goes into the trunk lid out of its hole, and pulling it and the harness cover down towards the fender. I just had some cracked insulation, which I fixed with electrical tape. Then I slid the harness cover and grommet back up into place. That was about 18 months ago, and no issues since. - Alain ----- Original Message ----- From: "scott noltensmeier" <snoltens@yahoo.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2004 11:24 PM Subject: [E36M3] Upper Brake Light Doesn't... > Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2004 21:13:12 -0800 (PST) > From: scott noltensmeier <snoltens@yahoo.com> > Subject: Upper Brake Light Doesn't... > > The upper brake light on my 96' M3 doesn't light anymore. > -- the light bulb is OK. > -- the other brake lights are OK. > > How do I trouble shoot this problem -or- is it easier to rewire it from one of the other functioning brake lights. > > BTW: The internal trunk light has the same problem. Where is the switch that controls the trunk light? > > Thanks, > Scott
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#4. Check engine light - from Rueda, Luis
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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 09:59:51 -0500 From: "Rueda, Luis" <lrueda@navisite.com> Subject: Check engine light Thanks Jamie (& to all others whom responded to my question). Cheers, Luis -------------------- 2 -------------------- Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 16:48:24 -0600 From: "Jamie Howton" <jhowton@fotofab.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Check engine light http://www.unofficialbmw.com/repair_faqs/motronic.html Regards Jamie Howton 2002 330i 1995 M3
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#5. Weird starting behavior on my 99 M3.. - from Chamberlain, Jesse
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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 10:19:43 -0500 From: "Chamberlain, Jesse" <jchamb06@harris.com> Subject: Weird starting behavior on my 99 M3.. I have a question on the normal starting operations of the S52 engine. I started my 99 M3 (with traction control) this past weekend (its not a daily driver), and I noticed if I push on the gas pedal at all right after I start the car, the engine will almost stall. If I release the pedal after the RPMs drop, the engine comes back and idles at about 1500rpm. After running the engine for about 1 minute, the engine operates normally, and the car drives great. I am just wondering if this is just common starting operation for the S52 engines, or if there could be something wrong? I know in my 93 325i, it doesn't do this, but that's a completely different engine and electronics. I can't wait for the nice weather to come so I can drive this car. I bought it last November, and I haven't been able to really drive this car yet! Thanks for the info! Jesse Chamberlain -99 Imola Red M3 -93 325i
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#6. Mobil 1 - from Reed
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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 08:27:23 -0800 From: "Reed" <reedthis@comcast.net> Subject: Mobil 1 Just put Mobil 1 in my gearbox. Initial impression is that it shifts significantly smoother, at least when cold, than it did with the previous Redline D4ATF. I think I'll put Mobil 1 in my diff next. I assume I need the LS, for limited slip, version of their 75W90 gear lube for the M3? Reed/Seattle
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#7. '95 Spring hat part #? - from Walter Jordan
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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 12:06:21 -0500 From: "Walter Jordan" <walter@walterj.com> Subject: '95 Spring hat part #? I picked up a used set of H&R sports last week (thanks Dave) and supposedly need to use '95 spring hats (not strut hats) up front to install on a 96-99 because of slight differences in the diameter. Anybody know the part numbers? How about for the 5,7.5 & 10mm pads for the rear springs so I can adjust the height? -- Walter -- Walter Jordan
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#8. Injector ends cracked, no part no in ETK - from Dorffer, Rich
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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 12:08:38 -0500 From: "Dorffer, Rich" <RDORFFER@CleIndians.com> Subject: Injector ends cracked, no part no in ETK > Anyone know if these green plastic tips and/or lower o-rings are available > separately, or am I stuck buying entire new injectors? I really don't want > to risk putting it back together with the old/worn/broken pieces, 'cause > that fuel rail is a really tight fit. First off, the o-ring at the top of the injector is more than likely the same as the one on the bottom. You can most likely use the part number 13 64 1 730 767 You are correct, BMW does not sell the pintle caps separately. You can easily get them from a injector service place. I recommend Rich at www.cruzinperformance.com They will probably cost very little, about $1 each if I had to guess. You can probably get the o-rings from him too. Also, those plastic pintle caps are primarily to protect the nozzle before installation or upon removal, they serve very little or no purpose installed from what I was told. No affiliation to Rich at Cruzin Performance, just a satisfied customer. Regards, Rich
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#9. RE: [E36M3] '95 Spring hat part #? - from Mel Silva
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Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 11:16:53 -0600 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] '95 Spring hat part #? Spring hats 31 33 2 227 348 (99.8% certain that left and right are the same). I have them sitting in my garage along with the H&R springs, waiting to be installed. I got mine from Chester along with a 'kit' for reinforcing the rear shock mounts. Mel PS Thanks Chester -----Original Message----- From: Walter Jordan [mailto:walter@walterj.com] Sent: Monday, March 01, 2004 11:14 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] '95 Spring hat part #? Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2004 12:06:21 -0500 From: "Walter Jordan" <walter@walterj.com> Subject: '95 Spring hat part #? I picked up a used set of H&R sports last week (thanks Dave) and supposedly need to use '95 spring hats (not strut hats) up front to install on a 96-99 because of slight differences in the diameter. Anybody know the part numbers? How about for the 5,7.5 & 10mm pads for the rear springs so I can adjust the height? -- Walter -- Walter Jordan ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Taylor Autosport http://www.taylorautosport.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com BMW M3 Specialties http://www.jt-designs.com Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#10. Re: 98 M3 spark plugs - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2004 12:29:23 -0500 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Re: 98 M3 spark plugs Using the secret Bosch decoder ring: http://www.boschusa.com/AutoParts/FAQs/SparkPlugs/ Follow the link on the 15th question, for designation codes. This is a great chart! Save it to your PC (jpeg) and print it out. It looks like the 'C' means Copper core, while the 'E' means Nickel-Yttrium core. No info about one superceding the other... -rb Ron Buchalski BMWCCA #76387 1995 E36 M3 1993 E34 525iT 1999 Mazda Miata 1998 Hyundai Elantra >Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2004 08:19:21 -0800 >From: "Reed" <reedthis@comcast.net> >Subject: 98 M3 spark plugs > >I ordered Bosch plugs for my 98 M3 at a local parts store. When I picked >them up yesterday, I noticed they were not the FGR8QKC plugs I had ordered, >but FGR8QKE. When I brought this to the parts guy's attention, he looked >in his database and said that the C suffix had been superceded by the E >suffix plugs. > >Can anyone confirm this? I really don't want to install the wrong heat >range plugs, or whatever that last letter refers to. > >TIA, >Reed/Seattle _________________________________________________________________ Store more e-mails with MSN Hotmail Extra Storage – 4 plans to choose from! http://click.atdmt.com/AVE/go/onm00200362ave/direct/01/