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#1. Re: Cold start hesitation - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 10:51:02 -0500 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: Re: Cold start hesitation Get TSB 12-02-99 done and it will cure the hesitation/lumpy idle/stalling/crappy cold start on your '96+ S52US motor (M3, M-Roadster, M-Coupe). If you have any aftermarket software, remove it first, than reinstall it after the update. I've had the update for at least three years and I do not have any cold start issues, even with the -10F to -15F weather we had in January. -Justin -- '76 02 '97 m3 bmw cca checkout http://www.bmw2002.net
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#2. Brake Pads FS - from geoff atkinson
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Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 11:10:42 -0500 From: "geoff atkinson" <pskalc@hotmail.com> Subject: Brake Pads FS Hey, Well, with all of this brake pad talk, I figured I'd let my stock pads go, since I won't be using them. They're stock pads, all around... A full set. They were put on my 1995 about 1,000 miles ago, and I removed them in preparation for track season. How about $100 for the full set? Thank you. -Geoff Atkinson _________________________________________________________________ Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfee when you click here. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Brake pads (Again) - from Steve Hazard
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Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 11:34:34 -0500 From: "Steve Hazard" <SHazard@nhboston.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake pads (Again) -------------------- 9 -------------------- Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 06:24:11 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake pads (Again) Jay, FWIW... I did quite a bit of research on what track pads could be left on the car 100% of the time. I'm to lazy to swap pads out at the track. After talking with lots of people I settled for the R4's. They have rattle clips, unlike the PF 97's and are far less abrasive cold than the other pads I looked at. They dust like hell, squeel like stuck pigs, but don't rattle...........and they stop fine cold on the street (not 100% till warmed up, but adequate) I autocrossed on them at the tail end of this last season. I just dragged my brakes coming up to the line...they worked better than any street pad I've tried yet. In fact the cut my brake zones down enough that this year I'm going to relearn when to apply them. I'm a left foot braker and pedal pressure is different than a street pad, but I'm just about used to that now. Cheers, Steve Josh- I've been using R4-S for about 3 years. Less dust than stock. It's not corrosive. I have no problems with noise (I've heard others that do). I tracked them once and they worked well but did exhibit some fade toward the end of the day. I now swap out the fronts to R4 for track days (may try R4 for rear soon). The only thing that may be a problem is initial bite. They want to get a little heat in them. Not a problem on the track, but may be at auto-x. Jay
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#4. SRS Light - from Neil Maller
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Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 11:36:46 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: SRS Light The dreaded red SRS light has been coming on intermittently, and is now constantly illuminated. A dealer diagnostic last time I was in indicates the well known problem with a seatbelt latch sensor. One was replaced under warranty several years ago, and I'm disinclined to buy this whole fairly expensive latch/pretensioner assembly to fix a problem which isn't really much of a problem. On the other hand, if the SRS system "thinks" the seatbelts aren't done up when they should be, I've read it will deploy the airbags at a lower accident impact threshold than otherwise, which doesn't seem like a good thing either. If that's correct I probably ought to do something, and not just apply a piece of black electrical tape to the afflicted area. Looking at the wiring diagram in Bentley, I see only a single seatbelt switch for 94-96 cars, on the driver's side. For 97+ they show them for both driver and passenger. The diagram also indicates internal resistors on the switch, so it's not just a simple make/break. This suggests an approach similar to that taken by some people when removing the airbag altogether, which is to insert a resistor of the correct value (3.3 ohms for the airbag) to fool the system. Has anyone been there/done that with the seatbelt switch? Neil 96 M3
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Brake pads (Again) - from Bob Sutterfield
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Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 10:23:24 -0700 From: "Bob Sutterfield" <Bob@XC.Org> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Brake pads (Again) I can understand laziness, but you won't be happy with your braking performance on either street/autox or track if you try to use the same pads in both environments. As others have noted there's no good all-use compromise pad, just like "all-season" tires aren't really good at anything. Noise, dust, cold performance, and hot performance just can't all be optimized in the same pad material. The highest step in effort is to switch pads and rotors in the paddock in the morning, and again in the evening before you drive home. This would only be required if you're using a pure race pad with dedicated rotors. I have always used the same rotors all year round (street and track) with no adverse effects, so in real life you can swap just the pads. Once you've done it a time or two you'll get pretty quick at it. Saving time is all about knowing which wrench you're going to grab, and having it ready before you jack the car. If you switch to dedicated tires and wheels for the track, you're already doing about a third of the work. For somewhat less effort and no intrusion on your track-day schedule, switch pads at home in the comfort of your own garage. Stick in the track pads on Friday night while you're doing the rest of your car prep, and switch back to street pads on Sunday. I've had a few occasions when I was too tired Sunday night, or got home too late to switch the car back to its street setup. The guys at the office know not to ride with me to lunch on those Mondays because the Konis are still stiff, and the brakes are still squealing like a cement mixer :-)
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#6. LTW-style Flag Decals - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 09:34:33 -0800 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: LTW-style Flag Decals Peter - Some time ago you posted, the text below, to Suzy's list. Do you happen to have the files required to produce the flags? TIA Kim Burgess Date: Sun, 01 Dec 2002 09:20:35 -0800 From: Peter Guagenti <peter@guagenti.com> I went out and bought a set of LTW-style flag decals for my '95, so I thought I'd spread the love. If you want your very own flag decals, don't pay the absurd prices that everyone charges for these things (I paid over $130 on eBay), make your own: http://www.guagenti.com/M3/01-hood.jpg http://www.guagenti.com/M3/02-left_fender.jpg http://www.guagenti.com/M3/03-trunk_top.jpg http://www.guagenti.com/M3/04-trunk_rear.jpg http://www.guagenti.com/M3/05-right_rear_a.jpg http://www.guagenti.com/M3/06-right_rear_b.jpg These are high-res digital pictures of each decal panel, with a ruler included in the photo for scale. All you have to do is take these photos to a sign shop, and they should be able to recreate the decal for you in whatever color(s) you want. For even less money (if you are artistically inclined like some of us), import the photos into Adobe Illustrator, recreate the flag decal in line-art, and any sign shop can run the file through their vinyl cutters for minimal cost. At some point I'll be recreating these stickers to recoup the cost I put into them, so I'll let y'all know if I decide to sell any. I'll also post pics of the dark-grey metallic flags on my black '95 to the list as soon as I wash my car. ;-)
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#7. Cam lube - from Jim
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Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2004 10:16:55 -0800 From: Jim <rx3sp@lanset.com> Subject: Cam lube "BTW: does anyone know if Redline assembly lube is preferred on the cams when reassembling them or just motor oil? " I personally think that the Redline is not good enough for a cam. Call me old fashioned, but I feel much more comfortable with regular old Molybdenum Disulphide (MSO^2). I use Redline everyday for certain things, but never a cam. Even used and broken in. It's cheap too. http://engineparts.com/motorhead/techstuff/caminstall.html -- Jay Morris
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#8. Will E46 M3 Lip Spoiler fit on an E36 M3? - from Riley, Scott
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Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 12:17:04 -0600 From: "Riley, Scott" <sriley@cardinalcapital.com> Subject: Will E46 M3 Lip Spoiler fit on an E36 M3? Subject line says it all... Are the decklids approximately the same size? TIA, Scott
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Will E46 M3 Lip Spoiler fit on an E36 M3? - from Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering
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Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 13:30:13 -0500 From: "Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering" <ben@rogueengineering.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Will E46 M3 Lip Spoiler fit on an E36 M3? The E46 M3 one is slightly shorter than the actual trunk width. The E39 M3 version is slightly longer (and thus has small overhang) on the trunk. This is for the coupe only. Unsure about the 4-door. Regards, Ben Liaw - Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com 201-444-8150 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Riley, Scott" <sriley@cardinalcapital.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2004 1:34 PM Subject: [E36M3] Will E46 M3 Lip Spoiler fit on an E36 M3? Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 12:17:04 -0600 From: "Riley, Scott" <sriley@cardinalcapital.com> Subject: Will E46 M3 Lip Spoiler fit on an E36 M3? Subject line says it all... Are the decklids approximately the same size? TIA, Scott ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#10. RE: [E36M3] one more, any experience with RD spoiler? - from James Clay
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Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 15:48:15 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] one more, any experience with RD spoiler? The RD part is nicely effective for the price. Add a big lip sticking out in the front and it will slow you down. Adjustment is not super effective. All in all, I like it better than the Motorsport part for the cost (1/3) and the weight (probably again 1/3). The bigger part of downforce in the front and what won't hurt your speed like extending the lip out, is a nice undertray. We made a lexan undertray with the RD splitter when we were using that part and it was much nicer. James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648
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#11. Rear Toe Bushings ??? - from Robert Manger
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Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2004 15:42:33 -0500 From: "Robert Manger" <Robert_Manger@Mastercard.com> Subject: Rear Toe Bushings ??? I have a quick question for the list, has anyone had any experience with the turner RTAB limiter? http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=RTAL I am thinking about having these installed to help the longevity of the factory part. On a related note, how hard are the front control arm bushings to install? Rob ----------------------------------------- CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE This E-mail message and any documents which accompany it are intended only for the use of the individual or entity to which addressed, and may contain information that is privileged, confidential or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If the reader is not the intended recipient, any disclosure, distribution or other use of this E-mail message is prohibited. If you have received this E-mail message in error, please delete and notify the sender immediately. Thank you.