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#1. Re: [E36M3] Master cylinder bleeding - from DocWyte
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Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 05:55:54 -0800 (PST) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Master cylinder bleeding Chip, How is rebuilding the calipers going to help with a soft pedal? Have you cycled the ABS pump while bleeding the brakes? I'm chasing down air in my lines as well. Everytime I bleed the brakes I get air out of the rear calipers. I think I must have some air trapped in the ABS pump. As much as I hate to admit defeat, I think it's time for me to take the car to a shop that can cycle the ABS pump while bleeding the brakes/clutch slave and see what happens... -josh --- Chip Mitchell <chipm@uga.edu> wrote: > Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 08:42:04 -0500 > From: Chip Mitchell <chipm@uga.edu> > Subject: Master cylinder bleeding > > Good morning list, > > I'm preparing to do a full brake job, including > caliper > rebuilds since bleeding has not helped a soft pedal > problem, > but I ran across the following in a manual for a > different > car. What are your thoughts? > ===== __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Search - Find what you’re looking for faster http://search.yahoo.com
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#2. Re: Rolling Circumference Calculations ... - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 05 Mar 2004 09:16:47 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Rolling Circumference Calculations ... on 3/5/04 9:00 AM, The Buch <the_buch@telus.net> wrote: > Can one of you engineering or physics types tell me if I have the math > right (I am trying to choose tire sizes for 18s to get close to stock > rolling circumferences): > > Tire Selection - Rolling Circumference Calculator <snip> While it's fun to do the math, in the real world tire circumference varies somewhat by brand, model and size. It's better to go to Tire Rack's web site and check the revolutions per mile spec for the tires that interest you. Neil 96 M3
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Torque Wrenches - from Graeme Weston-Lewis
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Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 07:21:03 -0700 From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Torque Wrenches When I was in Home Depot the other week, I noticed that their torque wrenches had a big splash decal with "Lifetime Warrany" on them. You might want to check them out. At one time, the Huskey and Craftsman wrenches were identical with only brand marking differences. Graeme -----Original Message----- From: R. Bruce Shafer [mailto:mzealot@bellsouth.net] Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 3:01 AM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Torque Wrenches Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 21:39:46 -0500 From: "R. Bruce Shafer" <mzealot@bellsouth.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Torque Wrenches I was hoping for a lifetime guarantee, but the TW's only have a one year warranty. I asked them to prove it and they did. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> To: "R. Bruce Shafer" <mzealot@bellsouth.net>; "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 9:23 PM Subject: RE: [E36M3] Torque Wrenches > Aren't Craftsman tool guaranteed for life or is there a hidden torque wrench > clause? > > Mel > > -----Original Message----- > From: R. Bruce Shafer [mailto:mzealot@bellsouth.net] > Sent: Thursday, March 04, 2004 8:11 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] Torque Wrenches > > > Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2004 20:59:38 -0500 > From: "R. Bruce Shafer" <mzealot@bellsouth.net> > Subject: Torque Wrenches > > Looks like my Craftsmen Torque wrench will need to be either rebuilt and > calibrated or tossed out (the calibrated handle came off). Over the years, > I've seen some posts about other brands, rebuilding, and re-calibration of > torque wrenches. > > Craftsman replacements are between $70 and $100, not on sale. Does anybody > know what is costs to get a TW rebuilt? Any recommendations for a service > center to do a rebuild? Any other brands to consider? (I don't know if I > use a TW enough to justify Snap-on or other top shelf manufacturers). > > Does anybody have any opinions or comments on this? > > Thanks. > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > > ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#4. Official ITG Filter Cleaning Instructions - from Riley, Scott
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Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 10:21:43 -0600 From: "Riley, Scott" <sriley@cardinalcapital.com> Subject: Official ITG Filter Cleaning Instructions The following is an email that I received from ITG directly: Hi Scott, Sorry for the delay responding to your enquiry, things have been really hectic around here over the last week or so. Cleaning our filters is fairly easy and should only take 5-10 minutes to do. If your filter came pre-oiled using our JDR-1 filter (we use a white marker dye in the oil) you can wash the filter out with warm water and washing up detergent. DO NOT LEAVE THE FILTER TO SOAK IN WATER FOR ANY LONG LENGTH OF TIME AS THE GLUES USED WILL START TO SOFTEN. Basically all you need to do is massage the washing up detergent into the filter to dissolve the oil and then thoroughly rinse the filter out with fresh water until all the dirt AND the detergent has been removed. This should take no longer then 3 or 4 minutes, when this is done shake the filter to remove as much of the excess water as possible and then leave to dry in a warm place - not too hot. The filter will now be ready to re-oil. If your filter came oiled with any other filter oils, then you will most likely have to use a specific solvent to clean the filter, I know Silkolene produce something specific and I would assume that No-toil and Rock oil will likely produce something as well. If you can't get hold of any of these then you can also use gasoline (this actually works really well!!!!). As before DO NOT LEAVE THE FILTER TO SOAK!! You can use any kind of oil you like to re-oil the filter, as long as it is designed for foam air-filters - DO NOT USE K&N OIL or any other oil designed to be used with cotton gauze style filters as these will cause the filter to block, either contact the people who supplied the kit or try your local motocross shop - those boys tend to use foam filters as well. I hope this information is of help to you and if I can be of any further assistance please do not hesitate to contact me again. Best regards, Andy Jackson. HTH, Scott
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Master cylinder bleeding - from Walter Jordan
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Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 14:08:29 -0500 From: "Walter Jordan" <walter@walterj.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Master cylinder bleeding Well... 96-99 M3s are a different (crappier) master cyl. than the 95 that have been labeled as "spongy" by many a BMW racer (ok only 2 that I know)... but if you think the problem is air - take it off and bench bleed it - then bleed it again on the car with the rest of the system. Be careful not to introduce air into the ABS unit - fill and bleed the system then go slam on the brakes on dirt or wet pavement. Bleed it again and you should be fine. Also, when doing the calipers - fill them upside down before putting them on so you don't trap air in the top. Swing by a brake shop and grab a handful of those red plastic doohickeys that new calipers come with (in the threads for the line) they are great for containing the mess while you get everything lined up and filled. -----Original Message----- From: Chip Mitchell [mailto:chipm@uga.edu] Sent: Friday, March 05, 2004 8:51 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Master cylinder bleeding Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 08:42:04 -0500 From: Chip Mitchell <chipm@uga.edu> Subject: Master cylinder bleeding Good morning list, I'm preparing to do a full brake job, including caliper rebuilds since bleeding has not helped a soft pedal problem, but I ran across the following in a manual for a different car. What are your thoughts? "If the master cylinder is known or suspected to have air in the bore, it must be bled BEFORE any of the wheel cylinders or calipers. To bleed the master cylinder, loosen the upper secondary left front outlet fitting approximately 3/4 of a turn. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly through its full travel. Close the outlet fitting and let the pedal return slowly to the fully released position. Wait 5 seconds and then repeat the operation until all air bubbles disappear." I'd never heard of bleeding the MC separate from the calipers - is the normal/useful? Thanks, Chip ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#6. RE: [E36M3] Rolling Circumference Calculations ... - from Bob Vaughn
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Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2004 16:45:36 -0800 From: Bob Vaughn <Bob_Vaughn@Telestream.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Rolling Circumference Calculations ... Here's another good one (even if it does say Miata): http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html -- Bob > I understand (really I do!) the fascination with getting the > math right > yourself, but I'm basically lazy, so I'll use this excellent > tool instead: > http://amsoft.ru/tiresize
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#7. Re: [E36M3] LSD test - from Roger Graves
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Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2004 19:20:43 -0500 From: Roger Graves <RogRacer@earthlink.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] LSD test Someone asked what the LSD torque test was in my Miata shop manual....sorry this took so long to dig up! Anyway, the LSD in my Miata is a viscous-type, so the procedure is not exactly the same as what you'd perform with a clutch type. For the Miata...you jack both rear wheels off the ground...put the transmission in reverse, and (Duh!) remove the parking brake. You place a torque wrench set to 11 ft-lbs on one of the lug nuts, and you orient the torque wrench so that the axis of the wrench is "radial" with respect to the wheel. Astute observers will note that this orientation of the wrench provides additional torque to the wheel bearing centerline over and above what the torque wrench is set to.....but that's the procedure! You then apply the torque...a "beam-type" torque wrench would be easiest...and you *time* how long the wheel takes to rotate 90 degrees....it's supposed to take 4 seconds. For a clutch type, I would guess you'd just measure the break-away torque like Chris indicated below. So, my questions for Chris are...did you have both or one of the rear wheels jacked up? What gear was the transmission in? And lastly, how was the torque wrench oriented with respect to the wheel? I'll measure mine once I hear back and see if I get in the same 41-44 ft-lb range. Roger '95 M3 On 2/24/04 6:47 PM, "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> wrote: > I have done this test on 3 diffs: > > My original 97 3.23. > My 3.38 bought used. > A friends 3.23 from a 98. > > All were around 41-44 ft-lbs at point of first slippage, FWIW. > > Chris > 97 M3/4 > > >
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Brake pads (Again) - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Sun, 07 Mar 2004 10:00:27 -0500 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Brake pads (Again) Ron, I have the Hawk HPS pads and love them. The only thing I noticed when switching from Pagid pads is that the HPS seems to have a bit less bite to them initially. When I get on the brakes, I always seem to apply too little pedal force at first, then quickly correct myself. I've only really noticed this during the past winter, so maybe it's a cold weather thing. Or, maybe the Pagid pads were more touchy, and this is more "normal." Do you recall noticing this when you first moved to the HPS pads? Thanks Ron! - Chris
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#9. Fw: [CR] Torque Wrenches - from R. Bruce Shafer
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Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2004 14:45:58 -0500 From: "R. Bruce Shafer" <mzealot@bellsouth.net> Subject: Fw: [CR] Torque Wrenches Thanks to all that responded on the topic of torque wrenches. Looks like Ebay for a Snap-on TW is the best way to go.
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#10. E36 Rear Shock R-n-R - from kim.burgess@att.net
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Date: Sun, 07 Mar 2004 19:59:23 +0000 From: kim.burgess@att.net Subject: E36 Rear Shock R-n-R I am about to change out the springs on my E36 and I was wondering if I can leave the rear shocks attached at the upper mount, removing the lower mount from the RTA, and remove/replace the rear spring? TIA Kim Burgess