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#1. Re: [E36M3] Indicator lights - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 11:51:10 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Indicator lights At 10:00 AM 3/12/04, John Hoffner wrote: >On an E36 how does the service indicator lights work? Is it as simple as >tracking mileage and then the indicator lights click off at specified >intervals? Or does the computer audit more than that? If a simple mileage >calculation is the factor what are the intervals between the stages? In >other words if the last bar is lit are there 500... miles to go until >recommended service? How the SI lights works is outlined here: http://www.peakeresearch.com/silights.htm (7500 mile cycle for 95 and earlier, 10,000 mile cycle for 96-99(?), 15,000 mile cycle for 99+) (This has been answered numerous times in the archives: http://www.bmw-m.net/Digest/ALL-DIGEST-SEARCH.htm) Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP/A5
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#2. Re: [E36M3] WTB Guage consloe, etc and more - from DocWyte
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Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 20:35:17 -0800 (PST) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] WTB Guage consloe, etc and more Umnitza sells a very nice setup now. Cheap too! -josh --- Paul Smith <Paul.Smith@ontariosystems.com> wrote: > Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 08:37:40 -0500 > From: Paul Smith <Paul.Smith@ontariosystems.com> > Subject: WTB Guage consloe, etc and more > > Wanting to buy E36 M3 VDO gauge console with oil > pressure and temp as well > as engine temp. What is the best source besides BMP > or is that it? Anyone > have one to sell? Did anyone make one on their own? > Thanks > Paul Smith > 98 ///M3/4/5 Indiana with 'snows off' > > Also interested in any Conforti intake that are not > being used or class-one > trailers for getting wheels, etc to schools pulled > by the M3 > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance > http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > ===== __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - More reliable, more storage, less spam http://mail.yahoo.com
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#3. Looking for '95 Front Strut bearings - from jpaek21@yahoo.com
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Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 01:30:35 -0800 From: <jpaek21@yahoo.com> Subject: Looking for '95 Front Strut bearings Hello List, I'm in need of front strut bearings for a '95 in good condition. Please email me privately if you have a set for sale. Regards, Justin
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Replacing the Stereo with a later model - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 05:51:08 -0800 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Replacing the Stereo with a later model AFAIK, there is not an adapter made. I believe there are adapters made to add an aftermarket changer to certain factory decks. But, not to adapt a factory changer to a different bus type factory deck. Jay > Date: Fri, 12 Mar 2004 11:37:54 -0500 > From: Martin Bullen <vze322dw@verizon.net> > Subject: Replacing the Stereo with a later model > > I just replaced the C33 radio/cassette in my Z3 with a CD43 single CD > player, so I'm considering installing the newer head unit into my '95 > M3. However, the M3 is a pre- i-bus car, and I don't want to lose the > ability to use the existing trunk-mounted CD changer. > > Is there an adapter to let a later radio control an earlier CD changer? > > Thanks, > > Martin Bullen > '95 M3 > '97 Z3 2.8
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#5. I need a pair of 17x7.5 or 17x8.5 10 spokes - from Walter Jordan
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Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 13:13:43 -0500 From: "Walter Jordan" <walter@walterj.com> Subject: I need a pair of 17x7.5 or 17x8.5 10 spokes Does anybody have a pair of 10 spoke wheels for sale or trade? I need either 7.5 or 8.5... I'm trying to make a set of four same sized rims from a staggered set so I have whichever two I can't source to trade if someone else is looking to do the same. The condition of the paint is not of concern to me - but they must be true and without cracks. -- Walter Jordan
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#6. FS: An Origninal JC Chip 95 M3 - from George Trilikis
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Date: Sat, 13 Mar 2004 13:31:39 -0600 From: "George Trilikis" <gptrilik@insightbb.com> Subject: FS: An Origninal JC Chip 95 M3 Greetings, Just getting rid of old items no longer being used. I was lucky enough to have my vehicle and be part of the digest when JC first offered his performance chips for the 95 M3s. He sold it to us for a great price so I am passing that along as well. It was in a 9-94 production 1995 M3 for close to 6 years with no issues. $125. Thanks, George gptrilik@insightbb.com
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Performance Upgrades - from H26C@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 14:01:53 EST From: H26C@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Performance Upgrades Jeffrey; Where do you live? If you are in CA, and want to pass smog next time you are due. You have no choice. Dinan is the only one legal in CA. Leif PS. The new smog computers can identify the Conforti chip! You will get thirty days to take it out and then you will have to see a referee station. They are the pickiest SOBs around!
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Performance Upgrades - from H26C@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 14:05:38 EST From: H26C@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Performance Upgrades In a message dated 3/9/04 1:01:09 PM Pacific Standard Time, rex_tener@yahoo.com writes: > For the Californians on the list, will I fail the visual portion of the > smog check with that intake? Will I need to put my stock air box back on > every other year for the smog check? > Not every year, every two years! You will have to remove the chip as well! It's not easy to pass the smog test any more. The computers they use are the latest available. You are no longer able to pull anything over on them. Leif
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Performance Upgrades - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 13:28:06 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Performance Upgrades H26C@aol.com wrote: > > Jeffrey; > Where do you live? > If you are in CA, and want to pass smog next time you are due. You > have no choice. Dinan is the only one legal in CA. > Leif Leif, Please do not confuse the legal status of a product with its ability to pass emission tests. The former is good for sales and marketing. The latter is what truly matters to the members of this forum. > PS. The new smog computers can identify the Conforti chip! This begs a question - how do you think they would accomplish such a feat? Do you by any chance work for Dinan? Sucking up to Steve? If it looks luck a duck, quacks like a duck, it's a duck. alex f
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake Caliper Rebuild and other Misc Questions? - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Sun, 14 Mar 2004 14:11:23 -0600 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Brake Caliper Rebuild and other Misc Questions? Fernando Mujica <fmujica@mac.com> wrote: > > I'm doing my brake calipers soon, so I'll be interested in any info > too. I already ordered the repair kits. > > > From: "Johnny Lee" <arionatof@comcast.net> > > > > So I am suspecting that I might need to rebuild the calipers ... I > > was wondering if this is a straightforward process. Yes. Very. Put the Saran Wrap between the brake fluid reservoir and the cap. That will create an air-tight seal and minimize fluid drip from the lines after you remove the caliper. It also does not hurt to wrap/close/block the ends of the open brake lines once your remove the calipers. The rebuild process itself is brain-dead simple once you get going. Remove the caliper carrier (the bolts might be in tight if you've never done this before) and disconnect the brake line. Put a piece of wood where the outboard brake pad goes in the caliper carrier. Now direct the air from a portable tire inflator (or from any other source of compressed air) into the caliper brake line hole and watch the piston extend and pop out. This is where the block of wood keeps the piston from flying off, striking people/expensive things and getting damaged. Observe how the inner and outer dust seals were installed. Inspect the piston for scratches/rust on the surface (there shouldn't be any unless you dust boot was severely damaged for a long time). You can lubricate the new seals with brake fluid and reinstall. Now the fun part - inserting the caliper back in while ensuring that the inside edge of the dust boot stays in the piston groove. This will take a few tries to get right. If you have any hint of suspicions that the boot had slipped out of the groove, start again. This is the only way to get the boot to stay in its place and protect the piston. Once the piston is back together, bleed the caliper before installing it back on the hub. This way you can position the bleed screw pointing straight up increasing the likelihood of bleeding all the air out of it. Now move to the next wheel. The whole process may take a few hours on the first caliper, but should eventually go down to 15-45 minutes (excluding jacking/wheel removal). > > I guess I will need to flush the brake fluid afterward also. Yep. HTH, alex f