E36M3 #3656

Tuesday, March 23, 2004 14:41:24

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Alternator - from Shane Kleinpeter
#2. FS: PFC97 Pads Frt & Rear - from RFKoby@aol.com
#3. Re: [E36M3] Alternator - from Chester Wong
#4. RE: Yet another A032R question - from Ahmad Lutfeali
#5. RE: [E36M3] [OTH] Tire Storage - from Graeme Weston-Lewis
#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: Gas Gauge Intermittent - from Kent L. Shephard
#7. Dinan CAI - from Robert Exconde
#8. [E36M3] Slave Cylinder Idiocy - from Michael Maigret
#9. Kumho V710 - from Pat Kelly
#10. Re: Gas Gauge Intermittant - from Shane Kleinpeter

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#1. Alternator - from Shane Kleinpeter
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 06:21:57 -0800 (PST) From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> Subject: Alternator The voltage regulator fix seems to have been short lived. The alternator puts out plenty of juice when cold, but as soon as it heats up it goes back to substandard charging. 1. Where's the best (i.e. Cheapest) place to pick up an alternator? 2. Is there any benefit to upgrading from 80A to 140A (the car does have upgraded stereo)? Is there any harm? 3. Can I put in a Bosch if it has a Valeo in it now? 4. Is there any trick to swapping the pulley's? I have air tools. Thanks. Shane K. <-- still driving the tow vehicle __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Finance Tax Center - File online. File on time. http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html

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#2. FS: PFC97 Pads Frt & Rear - from RFKoby@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 09:29:58 -0500 From: RFKoby@aol.com Subject: FS: PFC97 Pads Frt & Rear I getting ready for the track driver school season to start and I found a sets of PFC97 front pads and PFC97 rear pads to fit e36 M3. The pads are new, and unused, still in orginal boxes. Boxes have some wear and tear from being bounced around in more parts/supplies bin... $200 for both sets, buyer pays shipping.... contact me off-line bob

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#3. Re: [E36M3] Alternator - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 06:53:17 -0800 (PST) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Alternator I can get the 80A one for $247 and the 140A one for $300. Both require a $30 core charge on top of that. :-/ The alternators come with pullies already attached so unless you have a set of underdrive pulleys, you should be good to go with a swap. Valeo, Bosch, they are interchangeable. Sorry to hear that your voltage regulator died. Can't wait for the weather to warm! Chester --- Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> wrote: > The voltage regulator fix seems to have been short > lived. The alternator puts out plenty of juice when > cold, but as soon as it heats up it goes back to > substandard charging. > > 1. Where's the best (i.e. Cheapest) place to pick up > an alternator? > > 2. Is there any benefit to upgrading from 80A to 140A > (the car does have upgraded stereo)? Is there any > harm? > > 3. Can I put in a Bosch if it has a Valeo in it now? > > 4. Is there any trick to swapping the pulley's? I > have air tools. =====

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#4. RE: Yet another A032R question - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 10:21:36 -0500 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Yet another A032R question Walter, If I were you, I would get Toyo Proxes RA1s (235/40/17s) and mount them on your 8.5 inch wheels (yes they will fit without any issues). The Yokos cost the same as Toyos, but wear faster and grip a LOT LESS. On the street (driving to and from the track), the Yokos make the car very darty and are extremely noisy. To sum it short, the Yokos (H COMP) are nothing but glorified street tires. Ahmad Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 07:52:34 -0500 From: "Walter Jordan" <walter@walterj.com> Subject: Yet another A032R question Will the 255/40-17 fit? My wheel wells are already rolled and I have the old H&R sport kit that sit pretty low in the rear. I have 8.5" wheels all around. If it will fit in back, will the front need spacers to keep off the strut (stock housing w/ Konis)? The reason I ask is they only offer the H(ard) compound in 235 or 255 and for similar cash I'd just as well like to have the extra width. I know guys that get 255 Kumho V700s under there but they are TIGHT and I worry that the Yokos might be a wee bit wider and I'd be stuck with tires I can't use. Failing all else, will the 235s mount on an 8.5" wheel? -- Walter Jordan

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#5. RE: [E36M3] [OTH] Tire Storage - from Graeme Weston-Lewis
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 09:28:32 -0700 From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] [OTH] Tire Storage I hang mine on hooks (the ones Home Depot sells for hanging ladders) that pass through the center of the wheel. That way, there is no significant weight on the tire at all. Most of the racers I know have fabbed up an angle iron frame so the wheel sits vertically. In fact, most of them keep their mounted wheels in their trailers where it has to get pretty hot, but it is out of direct sunlight. Graeme -----Original Message----- From: Tom Voloshin [mailto:tvoloshin@yahoo.com] Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 5:10 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] [OTH] Tire Storage Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 15:57:01 -0800 (PST) From: Tom Voloshin <tvoloshin@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] [OTH] Tire Storage Thanks, so I should anticipate building a tire "shelf" (more like a large vertical 'ball bin') so they stack vertically and rest on their sidewalls? Is that the concensus? Thanks to all for your time and input. :) Tom --- Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> wrote: > I thought the rule of thumb was that if the tire was unmounted, it > should stand > on the tread. If it is mounted and has air pressure, they should lay > on the > sidewall... > > I just have a shelf that sits in front of the car and I put the > tires/wheels > inside garbage bags and throw them on the shelf. > > Chester > > --- Tom Voloshin <tvoloshin@yahoo.com> wrote: > > What is the best recommended way to store track and winter tires > > (mounted on rims) in my garage? I have a two car garage with both > bays > > being used to park cars. It is a 19'x 20' garage, so there isn't > much > > room. :( I was thinking on constructing a tire "shelf" along the > one > > wall high up near the ceiling. Assuming the tires should rest on > their > > treads and not their sidewalls (standing up as opposed to lying > down). > > Does it matter what materials I use to construct the "shelf" with? > > They will not be in direct sun light. I have a crawl space above > my > > garage, but I did not think it wise to store them up there since it > > gets "attic-like" temperatures up there. > > > ===== > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Finance Tax Center - File online. File on time. http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************

Reply to: Graeme Weston-Lewis

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#6. Re: [E36M3] Re: Gas Gauge Intermittent - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 09:22:57 -0800 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Gas Gauge Intermittent If they are in series you get a break in the wire. So if '0' = Full then infinite would be empty. So high resistance would be always empty. Kent Som Naderi wrote: >Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 17:42:44 -0800 >From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Gas Gauge Intermittent > >Just goes to show you, try not to be on crack when you read/post messages on >the E36M3 list. Sorry for the misinformation! > >So when the armature "wears out", does this have the effect of increasing >the resistance dramatically (towards breaking the circuit) or does it short >the circuit? I would assume it breaks the circuit... but if the senders are >in series, that would mean that the gauge would start reading half-empty >when the gas tank was full (since the resistance would be 250 Ohms and a >full tank would be 500 Ohms). There are other permutations, depending on >whether the senders short the circuit or break it, depending on whether they >are series or parallel. > >Is the gauge needle "driven" through the resistance or is it set by a >computer that reads the voltage level based on the resistance? If it's the >latter (which is what I suspect), when the gauge goes to "complete empty", >what is this indicating? A voltage level (ie resistance) that's too high, >too low, or either? > >Also, can all of this information be found fairly easily in the Bentley >manual? > >- Som > > > > >>Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 14:29:53 -0800 >>From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> >>Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Gas Gauge Intermittent >> >>At 12:50 PM 3/22/04, Som Naderi wrote: >> >- there are apparently 2 fuel senders, one for E -> 1/2 F, another for >> >> >1/2 > > >> >F -> F. >> >>Umm, no. >> >>The two fuel senders are on either sides of the fuel tank, both >>reading the level on either side of the tank. There is plumbing that >>keeps the sides relatively level (the tank is a "saddle" tank and >>straddles the driveshaft tunnel). Thus each sender measures the same >>level, through the full range of measurement, ideally. >> >>Each sender is a resistive-type sender. A float works up and down on >>an armature, varying the resistance. The resistance varies from 10 >>ohm empty to 250 ohms full for each sender. Initial troubleshooting >>involves checking the resistance of each sender at a known fuel >>level (full, half, or empty, for example) and replacing the one that >>isn't reading correctly. >> >>The senders are wiring in parallel to the gauge, so basic resistor >>calculations give us a range of 5 ohm to 125 ohm (empty to full) at >>the gauge. (R1*R2/(R1+R2)) >> >>In my cases, the resistive material has worn out on the armature >>(happens when you fill up the tank every 3 days or so). >> >>Hope that helps, >> >>Jim Bassett >>1998 M3/4 >>1993 325is #44 JP/A5 >> >> > > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > > > >

Reply to: Kent L. Shephard

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#7. Dinan CAI - from Robert Exconde
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 11:41:25 -0600 From: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> Subject: Dinan CAI II have the Dinan CAI, and I'm going to replace the air filter . Is it true that its only a K&N filter? or should I go to the dealership to order Does anyone know of the K&N part Number

Reply to: Robert Exconde <99e36m3@exconde.com>

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#8. [E36M3] Slave Cylinder Idiocy - from Michael Maigret
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 10:43:00 -0800 (PST) From: "Michael Maigret" <studmuffin@galaxy.nsc.com> Subject: [E36M3] Slave Cylinder Idiocy Dave, I'm the person who did the same as you last year and the tool that Rex recommended from Sears made the job a snap. I wouldn't recommend using a magnet on a string or what not because the pressure plate will attract anything that is not in your absolute control (ask me how I know). If you live anywhere near the Bay Area, I have the Sears tool in my garage. Regards, Mike Maigret BMWCCA #277854

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#9. Kumho V710 - from Pat Kelly
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 15:09:19 -0500 From: "Pat Kelly" <pkelly@agincourtcapital.com> Subject: Kumho V710 The new Kumho V710's look like Hoosier killers, but as of now don't have a size that comes anywhere close to fitting an E36 (unless you want to use the "pliers and blowtorch" method). Any word on whether they will be expanding the available sizes anytime soon? I'm gonna need some new autoX tires before too long... Here's the link: http://www.kumhousa.com/Products/PtnDetails.asp?mainCatID=1&PtnID=EV710 TIA, Pat Kelly

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#10. Re: Gas Gauge Intermittant - from Shane Kleinpeter
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 12:39:47 -0800 (PST) From: Shane Kleinpeter <sak335@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Gas Gauge Intermittant The gauge itself will not work without the rest of the cluster. I have a Stack system in my race car and tried to use just the gas gauge alone from the cluster since the Stack doesn't have a fuel gauge built in (it has Volts, Water Temp, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Fuel Pressure). When I hooked up the signal wire from the sender to the gauge alone it read full all the time, regardless of how full the tank was. The cluster has some sort of functionality that tranlates the signal from the sender and makes the gauge act accordingly. In fact, what you will find if you disassemble the cluster is that the mechanism that moves the needle is the same for the fuel, temp, tach and speedo. The signal that the cluster sends is the thing that controls them. Shane K. >My suspicion is >that the cluster acts as the meter, sending voltage >through the senders, >and reading the resulting current and displaying it >on the gauge. >Just a guess, since I haven't taken apart an >instrument cluster to >investigate. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Finance Tax Center - File online. File on time. http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html

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