E36M3 #3657

Tuesday, March 23, 2004 18:21:18

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] Re: Gas Gauge Intermittant - from Andrew Kalman
#2. Brakes- After thoughts - from Edward N Frank
#3. Service Interval Lights revisited - from Newman, Christopher
#4. RE: [E36M3] [OTH] Tire Storage - from Dave Arnold
#5. Re: [E36M3] Kumho V710 - from cteague@cox.net
#6. Re: [E36M3] Service Interval Lights revisited - from Jim Bassett
#7. Re: Slave Cylinder Idiocy - from Dave Bell
#8. Re: [E36M3] Service Interval Lights revisited - from Kent L. Shephard
#9. Re: [E36M3] Service Interval Lights revisited - from Robert Chay
#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: Slave Cylinder Idiocy - from Jim Bassett

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#1. Re: [E36M3] Re: Gas Gauge Intermittant - from Andrew Kalman
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 12:47:13 -0800 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Gas Gauge Intermittant Re: >The gauge itself will not work without the rest of the >cluster. I have a Stack system in my race car and >tried to use just the gas gauge alone from the cluster >since the Stack doesn't have a fuel gauge built in (it >has Volts, Water Temp, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Fuel >Pressure). When I hooked up the signal wire from the >sender to the gauge alone it read full all the time, >regardless of how full the tank was. The cluster has >some sort of functionality that tranlates the signal >from the sender and makes the gauge act accordingly. >In fact, what you will find if you disassemble the >cluster is that the mechanism that moves the needle is >the same for the fuel, temp, tach and speedo. The >signal that the cluster sends is the thing that >controls them. Modern cars have analog gauges that are driven by a microcontroller based on what senders and sensors elsewhere in the car are measuring. That's why on the E36 you can do a "gauge test" that makes all the pointers sweep over their full range in unison. The gauge pointers can either be stepper motors or simple armature-based meters that are driven at varying duty cycles to move the desired amount. -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com

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#2. Brakes- After thoughts - from Edward N Frank
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 16:33:27 -0500 From: "Edward N Frank" <enf@iglou.com> Subject: Brakes- After thoughts OK first things first. Thank you to everyone that responded and provided me with info on DIY Brakes. After my Pad sensor lit up the light I could escape it no longer. I know I could have saved more doing this all online but for a first go I went with the dealer. And I got them right now as opposed to waiting for them to be shipped. No major problems, rears went quicker than the fronts. I did happen to break one of the retainer clips on a rear pad. Not sure how I managed that but I did. Could not think why this would be an area of concern other than it taking away one of the thre holding springs. Any thoughts on this. My only gripe is that this DIY stuff seems to be taking on a life of its own. I am now looking at Transmission filter changes and new rear shocks. So curses to the DIY bunch. I'm hooked. I really enjoy and marvel at how this car is made. Still have a brake fluid change to do. Thanks again to everyone that supplied me with information, support, and encouragement. Ed Frank 97 M3/4

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#3. Service Interval Lights revisited - from Newman, Christopher
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 16:42:33 -0500 From: "Newman, Christopher" <CNewman@LSAC.org> Subject: Service Interval Lights revisited Hello, Perhaps I've overlooked something in the archives, but I have a different question related to the service interval lights. Suppose you manually keep track of your mileage to know when it's time for an oil change (as opposed to relying on the service interval lights). Basically, when you reach a certain mileage, you change the oil and write down/remember what mileage your next oil change will be. However, after you change the oil each time, you do NOT reset the lights. You just leave them as is, with the yellow, red, Oil Service, and/or Inspection lights still showing. Are the computers in the car going to continually see that the lights have not been reset, think you are a major slacker when it comes to maintenance, and somehow alter the performance of the car to try and protect itself ? Or are the car's computers smart enough to know that new oil has been added, even though the service lights were not reset ? Do all of the car's computers "talk" to one another, or does the one handling the service interval light formula just keep it's calculation to itself ? Just curious if NOT resetting the lights will cause problems or not. Thanks for any comments.

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#4. RE: [E36M3] [OTH] Tire Storage - from Dave Arnold
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 17:14:19 -0500 From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] [OTH] Tire Storage Ok, I keep hearing about storing tires not in heat, direct sunlight, etc. What are the facts/theories about this? I store mine stacked on their sides in my garage or storage shed. Am I committing a major error and should be looking at some how incorporating my track tires into my living room decor somehow in order to keep them in a temperature controlled climate? They might work as a credenza but I would rather leave them in the shed. Can someone inform me? Dave A 95 ///M3 "HI OFCR" -----Original Message----- From: Graeme Weston-Lewis [mailto:gweston@lsil.com] Sent: Tuesday, March 23, 2004 11:30 AM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] [OTH] Tire Storage Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 09:28:32 -0700 From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] [OTH] Tire Storage I hang mine on hooks (the ones Home Depot sells for hanging ladders) that pass through the center of the wheel. That way, there is no significant weight on the tire at all. Most of the racers I know have fabbed up an angle iron frame so the wheel sits vertically. In fact, most of them keep their mounted wheels in their trailers where it has to get pretty hot, but it is out of direct sunlight. Graeme -----Original Message----- From: Tom Voloshin [mailto:tvoloshin@yahoo.com] Sent: Monday, March 22, 2004 5:10 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] [OTH] Tire Storage Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2004 15:57:01 -0800 (PST) From: Tom Voloshin <tvoloshin@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] [OTH] Tire Storage Thanks, so I should anticipate building a tire "shelf" (more like a large vertical 'ball bin') so they stack vertically and rest on their sidewalls? Is that the concensus? Thanks to all for your time and input. :) Tom --- Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> wrote: > I thought the rule of thumb was that if the tire was unmounted, it > should stand on the tread. If it is mounted and has air pressure, > they should lay on the > sidewall... > > I just have a shelf that sits in front of the car and I put the > tires/wheels inside garbage bags and throw them on the shelf. > > Chester > > --- Tom Voloshin <tvoloshin@yahoo.com> wrote: > > What is the best recommended way to store track and winter tires > > (mounted on rims) in my garage? I have a two car garage with both > bays > > being used to park cars. It is a 19'x 20' garage, so there isn't > much > > room. :( I was thinking on constructing a tire "shelf" along the > one > > wall high up near the ceiling. Assuming the tires should rest on > their > > treads and not their sidewalls (standing up as opposed to lying > down). > > Does it matter what materials I use to construct the "shelf" with? > > They will not be in direct sun light. I have a crawl space above > my > > garage, but I did not think it wise to store them up there since it > > gets "attic-like" temperatures up there. > > > ===== > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Finance Tax Center - File online. File on time. http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************

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#5. Re: [E36M3] Kumho V710 - from cteague@cox.net
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 17:22:07 -0500 From: <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Kumho V710 Pat, You are correct. Choices are: 1) Use the Victoracers (I run 255/40-17's) 2) Shortly the older Ecsta 700 will be available in a 245/40-17 size according to Tirerack 3) Use the new Hoosier A3S04 in a 245/40-17 size available now from Tirerack. 4) Wait for new 710 sizes: Here's a list of sizes Kumho will make in the V710 for 2004. They are also listed by priority. 1) 225/50-15 2) 225/50-14 3) 225/50-16 4) 245/45-17 5) 245/35-18 6) 285/30-18 7) 195/55-14 8) 205/55-14 9) 215/50-13 10) 215/40-16 The 245/45-71's may be a little tall. The 245/35-18's require new wheels for those of us with 17" already. I already have 17x9's. Rumor is these might not be here until Aug/Sep though, possibly later. And of course, the 285/30-18's are the size Tunnell and others run if you flare the fenders. ;-) My current Victoracers have several events left, but I really don't know what to get next. Everyone I talked to raves about the 710's, but even the next batch doesn't look great for our cars unless you have some 18" wheels. Anyone tried the A3S04's in 245/40-17's yet? Chris 97 M3/4 > Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 15:09:19 -0500 > From: "Pat Kelly" <pkelly@agincourtcapital.com> > Subject: Kumho V710 > > The new Kumho V710's look like Hoosier killers, but as of now don't have a > size that comes anywhere close to fitting an E36 (unless you want to use the > "pliers and blowtorch" method). > > Any word on whether they will be expanding the available sizes anytime soon? > I'm gonna need some new autoX tires before too long... > > Here's the link: > http://www.kumhousa.com/Products/PtnDetails.asp?mainCatID=1&PtnID=EV710

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#6. Re: [E36M3] Service Interval Lights revisited - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 14:52:00 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Service Interval Lights revisited At 01:50 PM 3/23/04, Newman, Christopher wrote: >Just curious if NOT resetting the lights will cause problems or not. Thanks >for any comments. I don't know what the effects would be if you left the SI lights un-reset, but I do know that the car does not know that you changed the oil. Resetting the SI lights tells it. There's a couple of easy ways to reset the lights: 1. Search the archives, there's a way to reset them by jumping two terminals on the diagnostic connector; 2. Find someone in your area that has a Peake reset tool and ask them to reset your lights - should take 30 seconds (not counting travel time :-)) Jim Bassett ---- Hardware Engineer for hire http://www.jimbassett.com/Resume1.htm

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#7. Re: Slave Cylinder Idiocy - from Dave Bell
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 17:59:33 -0500 From: Dave Bell <davebell@cox.net> Subject: Re: Slave Cylinder Idiocy Mike writes: >I'm the person who did the same as you last year and the tool that Rex >recommended from Sears made the job a snap. I wouldn't recommend >using a magnet >on a string or what not because the pressure plate will attract anything >that >is >not in your absolute control (ask me how I know). Thanks for the offer, Mike. Unfortunately, after trying for half an hour to use the tool today, I was not successful. Hat in hand, I had my car towed to my local mechanic, who seems pretty sure he's going to have to drop the transmission. Oh well, might as well do the clutch and rear seal while we've gone this far. Pending price, maybe a lightweight flywheel, as well. ;-) (talk about making lemonade out of lemons, huh - good idea Mr. Sutterfield!) Thanks to all the people who offered suggestions. If I have anything to contribute to all of this, it's that I think the Bentley's directions for bleeding the slave cylinder are wrong. They tell you to remove the slave cylinder and activate the piston to remove the air from the slave. But then you have a fully pressurized cylinder and you can't compress the piston to mount it back on the transmission. My mechanic mentioned that they usually don't that step necessary - just bleeding the slave in place is sufficient, but if they do have problems, they've been successful "reverse-bleeding" - adding fluid via the bleed screw. YMMV. Thanks again to everyone. Dave Bell davebell@cox.net 95 M3 BMW CCA

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#8. Re: [E36M3] Service Interval Lights revisited - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 15:03:09 -0800 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Service Interval Lights revisited For those in the Hayward, Ca. area. I have a Fault Code Reader/Reset Tool. Kent Jim Bassett wrote: > Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 14:52:00 -0800 > From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Service Interval Lights revisited > > At 01:50 PM 3/23/04, Newman, Christopher wrote: > >> Just curious if NOT resetting the lights will cause problems or not. >> Thanks >> for any comments. > > > I don't know what the effects would be if you left the SI lights > un-reset, but I do know that the car does not know that you changed > the oil. Resetting the SI lights tells it. > > There's a couple of easy ways to reset the lights: > 1. Search the archives, there's a way to reset them by jumping two > terminals on the diagnostic connector; > 2. Find someone in your area that has a Peake reset tool and ask them > to reset your lights - should take 30 seconds (not counting travel > time :-)) > > Jim Bassett > ---- > Hardware Engineer for hire > http://www.jimbassett.com/Resume1.htm > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >

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#9. Re: [E36M3] Service Interval Lights revisited - from Robert Chay
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 18:19:02 -0500 From: "Robert Chay" <lists@rchay.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Service Interval Lights revisited I have a Peake code reader and also have access to a full OBDII scanner if anyone needs it. I'm in the Northern NJ/NYC area. -Bobby '98 M3 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> > > For those in the Hayward, Ca. area. > I have a Fault Code Reader/Reset Tool. > > Kent > >

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#10. Re: [E36M3] Re: Slave Cylinder Idiocy - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2004 16:11:04 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Slave Cylinder Idiocy At 03:00 PM 3/23/04, Dave Bell wrote: >If I have anything to contribute to all of this, it's that I think the >Bentley's >directions for bleeding the slave cylinder are wrong. I went through this a little while ago. Fortunately I was lucky and didn't lose the piston. One of my local mechanics suggested bleeding it by raising the rear of the car only. This helps to get the air out without risking loosing the piston of the slave cylinder. Jim Bassett

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