E36M3 #3672

Sunday, April 04, 2004 09:36:33

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Re: [E36M3] broke my gas flap locker... - from Jim Bassett
#2. RE: [E36M3] 97 Digital Climate Control - from James Clay
#3. Re: [E36M3] Spark plugs - from Chris Papademetrious
#4. Overrev Damage - How can you tell? - from dhogg
#5. Hardwiring an IPOD (Long) - from Lew Becker
#6. Hardwiring an IPOD -- Correction - from Lew Becker
#7. Tires - from Edward N Frank
#8. RE: [E36M3] Tires - from Walter Jordan
#9. RE: [E36M3] Overrev Damage - How can you tell? - from Walter Jordan
#10. Re: [E36M3] Hardwiring an IPOD (Long) - from Jay W. Hudson

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#1. Re: [E36M3] broke my gas flap locker... - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2004 08:36:44 -0800 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] broke my gas flap locker... At 02:25 PM 4/2/04, Larry T wrote: >Ok, well I was running my power/ground wires for my stereo to the battery, >and while pulling off the trunk liner on the right hand side, I didn't >know about the emergency gas tank lock release and pulled that sucker >pretty hard. So the cord stretched out, I guess, and now the gas tank flap >doesn't lock. Is there anyway to fix this, or do I have to buy a new >actuator for that? Thanks guys. You need to "reset" the emergency release. I haven't done this in a while, but follow the cord to the actuator. IIRC, the cord is attached to a pivoting rod. You need to return the rod to the "normal" position. Sorry, I can't recall the actual mechanics on how to do this. Maybe someone else can. But play around with it, you should be able to figure out how to reset it; I know I did, once :-) Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP/A5

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#2. RE: [E36M3] 97 Digital Climate Control - from James Clay
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Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2004 15:07:42 -0500 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] 97 Digital Climate Control This comes up just in time to dig into mine today also. When mine started acting odd, I saw a little smoke come out of it. Still works, just on and off. Is this smoke a common accompaniment? James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648

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#3. Re: [E36M3] Spark plugs - from Chris Papademetrious
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Date: Sat, 03 Apr 2004 15:35:43 -0500 From: Chris Papademetrious <chrispy@ieee.org> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Spark plugs At 03:20 PM 3/29/2004 -0600, you wrote: >Chris, >Please report back and let us all know how they work out for you. I'll be >ordering a set for my M3 in a few weeks as well. > >Chuck Brazeau >1995 BMW M3 - Violet on Black >SCCA Solo2 - Street Modified #95 >http://www.brazeauracing.com/ Well, I put the NGK BKR6EIX plugs in today. They only have a single ground electrode, and it's the shrouded type. Very interesting. I had my doubts as to whether they'd idle as smoothly as the Bosch 2-electrode plugs that came out. Here's a picture of the plugs that came out (~45k miles) and the plugs that went in: http://www.chrispitude.net/view.php?dispsize=Original&album=cars&pic=IMG_4044.jpg&start=0&picindex=4&user= The around-the-block test drive verdict? It idles nice, and runs nice. In other words, no obvious problems. I'll post more after I get some more miles on them. - Chris

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#4. Overrev Damage - How can you tell? - from dhogg
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Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2004 18:20:09 -0500 From: "dhogg" <dhogg@suscom.net> Subject: Overrev Damage - How can you tell? Fresh off an engine rebuild, the track car is pulling like a bull, probably better than ever. Like a nice-guy idiot, I let my COO's husband drive the car today on the street. He took 4th to about 5K, then hit 3rd instead of 5th. He caught it and didn't let the clutch out the whole way, but it sounded higher than 7K to me. How do I know if he ruined this beautiful rebuild? What should I do? Dave Hogg

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#5. Hardwiring an IPOD (Long) - from Lew Becker
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Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2004 15:30:08 -0800 From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> Subject: Hardwiring an IPOD (Long) After observing my son use his MP3 player over the past several months, I wondered why I would limit my auto tunes to 6 cd's in the changer when I could literally have hundreds accessible at any time. So, a few weeks ago I picked up an IPOD and ordered ICE Link interfaces for my 97 M3 with HK sound (and my other car, an 01 allroad). I considered going with Phatnoise, but cost (for 2 cars) and portability considerations were the deciding factors. The ICE Links were back ordered, and I did not receive them until this past week. On Thursday evening, I installed the ICE Link in my allroad (in the dash, behind the head unit -- no cable running from the rear CD changer location). The ICE Link is Hot Stuff. The IPOD plays through the car's stereo system; sound quality is CD comparable, and noticeably better than when played through the radio via an FM transmitter; the head unit controls volume, and changes tracks (up and down); and (in the allroad) the radio now displays station information that it never did before (name of station and genre, in addition to frequency). In addition, the IPOD charges when connected; pauses when I switch to the radio; and turns off when the car is shut down. (It does not, however, display information on the head unit about what is playing on the IPOD). The ICE Link for the M3 was/is only available in a trunk mount configuration, and the installation is proving considerably more challenging than it was in the allroad. I've stalled out, and need help on the following: 1. Where is the DSP amp, and how do I get access to it? 2. I prefer to keep the IPOD in the glovebox, out of sight; and ran the connecting wires in the allroad directly into the glove box so I don't have to connect and disconnect the IPOD every time I get in and out of the car. (The connecting wires are long enough to easily take the IPOD out of the glove box for making selections; and, I enclosed them in a thin black, flexible "conduit", so there are no wire tangle issues). Any suggestions as to how I can run the cable from the trunk up to the glovebox? The seats are out, and I've followed the battery cable up to what appears to be a covered channel on the floor (passenger's side). Do I have to lift the entire carpet to get access to the channel? (I've started, but its proving to be a bitch). Is there an easier way to get the cable up to the glovebox? Thanks. Lew Becker

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#6. Hardwiring an IPOD -- Correction - from Lew Becker
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Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2004 15:49:19 -0800 From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> Subject: Hardwiring an IPOD -- Correction Correction: I don't need to find the DSP amplifier, but rather the DSP Converter (huh?). Can anyone tell me where it is, and how to get to it? Thanks again. Lew Becker

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#7. Tires - from Edward N Frank
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Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2004 19:12:08 -0500 From: "Edward N Frank" <enf@iglou.com> Subject: Tires It is time for me to replace my tires. I am soliciting advise and recommendations of all kinds. I am tired of spending the money in the Michelin's for such a short tread life HOWEVER for me they perform so well that I have a concern that I will lose a lot. I don't track or auto-X but I love my corners when ever and where ever I can get them. So my driving style would be considered City/Hwy Spirited. Tread life is what I need. Along with Handling. Noise isn't too much of an issue. Weather isn't a major factor other than rain. I have read some OK stuff on Sumitomo HTR+. The price is right and wear seems good, but there are concerns. So I leave it to the experts here. And again any and all thoughts are welcome. Ed Frank 97 M3/4

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#8. RE: [E36M3] Tires - from Walter Jordan
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Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2004 19:35:11 -0500 From: "Walter Jordan" <walter@walterj.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Tires Kumho Ecsta MXs or S03 Pole Positions are both very long-lived, superb dry performers that do pretty well in the wet too. The Kumhos are about $50 a tire cheaper but are louder after 10k or so. I have been running the Kumhos for a while now and am still pleased with them (noise doesn't bother me much either). I do track/auto-x as often as time and cash flow allow - and my last set of MXs went 19k w/ 3.5k of track duty in there... that is about as much as I could hope for. If rain is your only foul weather I'd avoid anything labeled as "all-season". Truth be told - I'd avoid them if you told me you lived in the alps... but that is a holy war I'm not prepared to start tonight ;) -----Original Message----- From: Edward N Frank [mailto:enf@iglou.com] Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2004 7:16 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Tires Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2004 19:12:08 -0500 From: "Edward N Frank" <enf@iglou.com> Subject: Tires It is time for me to replace my tires. I am soliciting advise and recommendations of all kinds. I am tired of spending the money in the Michelin's for such a short tread life HOWEVER for me they perform so well that I have a concern that I will lose a lot. I don't track or auto-X but I love my corners when ever and where ever I can get them. So my driving style would be considered City/Hwy Spirited. Tread life is what I need. Along with Handling. Noise isn't too much of an issue. Weather isn't a major factor other than rain. I have read some OK stuff on Sumitomo HTR+. The price is right and wear seems good, but there are concerns. So I leave it to the experts here. And again any and all thoughts are welcome. Ed Frank 97 M3/4 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************

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#9. RE: [E36M3] Overrev Damage - How can you tell? - from Walter Jordan
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Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2004 19:42:31 -0500 From: "Walter Jordan" <walter@walterj.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Overrev Damage - How can you tell? 5k in 4th would not translate to an overrev in 3rd... but, in any case, if someone damaged your car - they should be responsible for the repair. If he'd hit a pole - he'd be on the carpet for the repair. -----Original Message----- From: dhogg [mailto:dhogg@suscom.net] Sent: Saturday, April 03, 2004 6:26 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Overrev Damage - How can you tell? Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2004 18:20:09 -0500 From: "dhogg" <dhogg@suscom.net> Subject: Overrev Damage - How can you tell? Fresh off an engine rebuild, the track car is pulling like a bull, probably better than ever. Like a nice-guy idiot, I let my COO's husband drive the car today on the street. He took 4th to about 5K, then hit 3rd instead of 5th. He caught it and didn't let the clutch out the whole way, but it sounded higher than 7K to me. How do I know if he ruined this beautiful rebuild? What should I do? Dave Hogg ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************

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#10. Re: [E36M3] Hardwiring an IPOD (Long) - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 07:28:55 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Hardwiring an IPOD (Long) First, a word of caution. I'm not sure if there's the possibility of picking up induced noise in the wiring you'll be running from the trunk. If there is, you should NOT run the wires near/parallel to the battery cable on the pass side of the vehicle. When we do amp installs, we always run the RCA cables on the driver's side for this reason. Or, you could run the wires up the center console. You don't have to remove the carpeting. You can fish the wires thru, using a stiff wire like a coat hanger or old car antenna. If you do run the wires up the side of the car, you'll have to remove the door sill and the kick panel on that side. The door sill is a bitch. Be prepared to buy new clips. Now, a suggestion. If you have the center arm rest, you could use some velcro to attach the IPOD to the top of the console area, under the arm rest. Running the wires would be much easier. Access to the IPOD would be as easy as raising the arm rest. And, it would be stable but removable. Sorry, I don't know about the DPS converter. Good luck and happy tunes. Jay > Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2004 15:30:08 -0800 > From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> > Subject: Hardwiring an IPOD (Long) > > After observing my son use his MP3 player over the past several months, I > wondered why I would limit my auto tunes to 6 cd's in the changer when I > could literally have hundreds accessible at any time. So, a few weeks ago I > picked up an IPOD and ordered ICE Link interfaces for my 97 M3 with HK sound > (and my other car, an 01 allroad). I considered going with Phatnoise, but > cost (for 2 cars) and portability considerations were the deciding factors. > The ICE Links were back ordered, and I did not receive them until this past > week. On Thursday evening, I installed the ICE Link in my allroad (in the > dash, behind the head unit -- no cable running from the rear CD changer > location). > > The ICE Link is Hot Stuff. The IPOD plays through the car's stereo system; > sound quality is CD comparable, and noticeably better than when played > through the radio via an FM transmitter; the head unit controls volume, and > changes tracks (up and down); and (in the allroad) the radio now displays > station information that it never did before (name of station and genre, in > addition to frequency). In addition, the IPOD charges when connected; > pauses when I switch to the radio; and turns off when the car is shut down. > (It does not, however, display information on the head unit about what is > playing on the IPOD). > > The ICE Link for the M3 was/is only available in a trunk mount > configuration, and the installation is proving considerably more challenging > than it was in the allroad. I've stalled out, and need help on the > following: > 1. Where is the DSP amp, and how do I get access to it? > 2. I prefer to keep the IPOD in the glovebox, out of sight; and ran > the connecting wires in the allroad directly into the glove box so I don't > have to connect and disconnect the IPOD every time I get in and out of the > car. (The connecting wires are long enough to easily take the IPOD out of > the glove box for making selections; and, I enclosed them in a thin black, > flexible "conduit", so there are no wire tangle issues). Any suggestions as > to how I can run the cable from the trunk up to the glovebox? The seats are > out, and I've followed the battery cable up to what appears to be a covered > channel on the floor (passenger's side). Do I have to lift the entire > carpet to get access to the channel? (I've started, but its proving to be a > bitch). Is there an easier way to get the cable up to the glovebox? > > Thanks. > > Lew Becker

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