E36M3 #3675

Monday, April 05, 2004 15:35:55

This digest contains the following messages:

#1. Lightweight battery (Optima?) - from Wayne Miller
#2. Re: [E36M3] Lightweight battery (Optima?) - from cteague@cox.net
#3. RE: Overrev Damage - How can you tell? - from dhogg
#4. RE:[E36M3] broke my gas flap locker...(FIXED!) - from Larry T
#5. THREAD PITCH: temp sender switch - from RFKoby@aol.com
#6. Heading to the dyno - from Graeme Weston-Lewis
#7. RE: M3 Parts For Sale and more!!! - from Burgess, Kim L
#8. Wanted: ABS Pump for 94 E36 325 - from Dave Kelley
#9. Kumho V710 Warning - from Pat Kelly
#10. RE: [RMsolo] Kumho 710s recalled? - It's official - from Graeme Weston-Lewis
#11. x3S04 update - from Graeme Weston-Lewis

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#1. Lightweight battery (Optima?) - from Wayne Miller
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Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 12:00:15 -0400 From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> Subject: Lightweight battery (Optima?) I have a friend that is looking to replace his stock battery in his E46M3 with one of the lightweight ones. Does anyone know the specific make/model of one that works well? I think that the battery trays are the same between E36's and E46's or at least very similar. Does anyone make a special bracket that holds the smaller battery in place? Thanks, -Wayne

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#2. Re: [E36M3] Lightweight battery (Optima?) - from cteague@cox.net
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Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 12:29:17 -0400 From: <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Lightweight battery (Optima?) The Hawker Odyssey 680 is what was recommended to me. I have the box shown here: http://www.bimmerhaus.com/vendors/wiles.html More notes on installation and battery issues are on that URL. Got the box from Bimmerhaus, but still need to order the battery. Chris 97 M3/4 > Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 12:00:15 -0400 > From: "Wayne Miller" <m3@waynemiller.com> > Subject: Lightweight battery (Optima?) > > I have a friend that is looking to replace his stock battery in his > E46M3 with one of the lightweight ones. Does anyone know the specific > make/model of one that works well? I think that the battery trays are > the same between E36's and E46's or at least very similar. Does anyone > make a special bracket that holds the smaller battery in place?

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#3. RE: Overrev Damage - How can you tell? - from dhogg
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Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 13:09:46 -0400 From: "dhogg" <dhogg@suscom.net> Subject: RE: Overrev Damage - How can you tell? Thanks, Neil. Will do. This occurred to me yesterday as well. Dave > -----Original Message----- > From: Neil Maller [mailto:neil.maller@gte.net] > Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 9:21 AM > To: E36M3 > Cc: dhogg@suscom.net > Subject: Re: Overrev Damage - How can you tell? > > on 4/4/04 11:45 PM, "dhogg" <dhogg@suscom.net> wrote: > > > Fresh off an engine rebuild, the track car is pulling like a bull, > > probably better than ever. Like a nice-guy idiot, I let my COO's husband > > drive the car today on the street. He took 4th to about 5K, then hit > 3rd > > instead of 5th. He caught it and didn't let the clutch out the whole > way, > > but it sounded higher than 7K to me. How do I know if he ruined this > > beautiful rebuild? What should I do? > > The ECU records over-revs, and your dealer can retrieve that info for you. > Of course that won't tell you whether any damage has occurred as a result. > If there was an over-rev, the next thing to do is have a compression and > leak-down test done. This will show whether any valves got bent and are > now > failing to seat properly. It's still possible that there might be slight > damage that doesn't show up: only disassembly and inspection will show for > sure. > > If it really played out the way you describe I think you've got a > reasonable > chance of the engine being OK. Most of those nasty money-shift incidents > seem to involve full bore speed-(mis)shifts at redline. Years ago Josh at > Eurosport told me that a quite high proportion of the ECUs they saw (this > was before the Shark Injector, when you had to send your OBD-II ECU to > them > for flashing) had already recorded over-revs. It seems likely that the > owners were unaware of this and there had been no engine damage. > Supposedly > the threshold for valve float is around 7400 rpm. > > But the first thing to do is definitely to have your dealer check the ECU > stored data. If that's OK then stop worrying. If not, get the compression > and leak-down tests. > > Neil > 96 M3

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#4. RE:[E36M3] broke my gas flap locker...(FIXED!) - from Larry T
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Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 12:39:52 -0500 From: "Larry T" <ltrainsvt@hotmail.com> Subject: RE:[E36M3] broke my gas flap locker...(FIXED!) Thanks to all who replied. I got it fixed yesterday, when I was re-arranging the power/ground cables for my stereo. The rod had fallen off, and once I got the cable detached, it took about 5 minutes to figure out how it clipped back on. Left the cable unattached until I was done, and then clipped everything back together. One working gas flap locker! Thanks everyone. Larry >-------------------- 3 -------------------- >Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2004 08:26:57 -0700 >From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> >Subject: Re: [E36M3] broke my gas flap locker... > >I just encountered this same situation hardwiring in my IPOD: > >There's nothing to "re-set" per se. A small black plastic rod (~2" long, >with 3/4 of a hollow cylinder on 1 end) "clips" onto a metal pin that >protrudes from the actuator (a small metal box, on the inside of the >fender); the rod slips in and out of the black rubber grommet that you see >on the left side of the square recess in which the gas cap resides. >There's >an emergency release collar around the rod attached by a thin plastic line >to a black plastic cap in the trunk liner. The collar pulls the rod off >the >actuator pin when the liner is pulled back by design to allow access to the >gas cap if the actuator fails. > >Just locate the rod (its almost certainly in the trunk -- it may have >fallen >into the battery compartment) and clip it back onto the actuator pin (after >threading it through the rubber grommet). Small hands and manual dexterity >help; but, patience is the key, because you're working by feel in a cramped >space. It may help to pull the actuator (just loosen the 2 screws that >secure it, and slide the actuator over to the right to unfasten it from the >mounting bracket) and look to see how the rod clips on. You can easily >clip >the rod on when the actuator's out; but, I suspect you'll have to put the >actuator back, and then clip the rod on by feel. (I left the emergency >release collar off, so I didn't have to do this every time I pulled the >liner -- its easy enough to disengage the rod manually, if the actuator >fails). > >Lew Becker _________________________________________________________________ Is your PC infected? Get a FREE online computer virus scan from McAfeeŽ Security. http://clinic.mcafee.com/clinic/ibuy/campaign.asp?cid=3963

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#5. THREAD PITCH: temp sender switch - from RFKoby@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 13:48:31 -0400 From: RFKoby@aol.com Subject: THREAD PITCH: temp sender switch I am working on a custom project.... and I need to know the thread pitch for the temperature sensor switch on the E36 3 series cars: 325 and M3. This is the temperature sensor switch on the passenger side of the raditor that controls the auxillary electric fan. please reply privately... bob

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#6. Heading to the dyno - from Graeme Weston-Lewis
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Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 13:18:56 -0600 From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> Subject: Heading to the dyno I'm heading to the dyno later in the week. Where is the best place to pick up the tach signal? TIA, Graeme

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#7. RE: M3 Parts For Sale and more!!! - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 12:34:31 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: M3 Parts For Sale and more!!! Hi, "Before this goes any further. I'd like to interject that email tone often does not reflect true intent and it's difficult to judge." .....but, are pictures available? Sounds like local pick-up is welcomed and encouraged!! KLB -------------------- 2 -------------------- Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 02:30:35 -0400 From: "Bill P" <billpanop@suscom.net> Subject: M3 Parts For Sale Hello, Having a new 3.2L engine built by Pete McHenry. So I have a few items that I need to sell. < snip > 1976 Vintage Blonde Girlfriend with LOTS of miles but still drives and rides like new. Runs great when you put into cruise control. Bitchy at times but pretty good overall. - $$ BEST OFFER $$ < snip > Prices are listed but feel free to make me an offer on each. Prices DO NOT include shipping. Local pick-up is welcomed. Bill P

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#8. Wanted: ABS Pump for 94 E36 325 - from Dave Kelley
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Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 16:00:16 -0400 From: "Dave Kelley" <d.kelley@usa.net> Subject: Wanted: ABS Pump for 94 E36 325 Anyone have a working ABS pump that maybe they have stripped out of their E36 race car? Or how about a link to a used parts dealer that may have one? Need one to fit a 94 325i. Regards, Dave Kelley 98 M3/4 94 325i

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#9. Kumho V710 Warning - from Pat Kelly
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Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 16:06:30 -0400 From: "Pat Kelly" <pkelly@agincourtcapital.com> Subject: Kumho V710 Warning Just saw that Tire Rack has pulled the new Kumho V710's (the replacement for the V700's many of us autoX with) after many reports of de-laminating (AKA "Firestoning"). Check out this thread that was posted on our local autoX forum: http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=822611 Lucky for most of us, they didn't sell this tire in an E36M3 size. Boy Howdy, Pat Kelly

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#10. RE: [RMsolo] Kumho 710s recalled? - It's official - from Graeme Weston-Lewis
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Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 14:28:07 -0600 From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> Subject: RE: [RMsolo] Kumho 710s recalled? - It's official http://www.kumhousa.com/V710.asp Graeme -----Original Message----- From: Graeme Weston-Lewis [mailto:gweston@lsil.com] Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 1:08 PM To: RMR_PCA; RMC BMW CCA Subject: FW: [RMsolo] Kumho 710s recalled? Passing this along as it will be of interest to some. This is not the only instance of 710's delaminating. As I consider a lot of you friends, please stop using this tire until Kumho gets the problems sorted out. I have not heard anything official about SCCA banning this tire, but I have heard rumors that neither it nor the x3S04's passed DOT certification on their first go around. I'll keep everyone informed as I get more info. Graeme -----Original Message----- From: rmsolo@rmsolo.org [mailto:rmsolo@rmsolo.org]On Behalf Of Paul Leonard Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 12:30 PM To: RMsolo@rmsolo.org Subject: [RMsolo] Kumho 710s recalled? I read a post on another board that the entire first batch of 710s are being recalled because they delaminate. I also heard that they are going in for further testing this week which they may not pass. See this thread for some pics of REALLY bad problems; http://www.sccaforums.com/ubb/ultimatebb.php/topic/14/151.html Paul Leonard Cobra Vert _____________________________________________________ RMsolo mailing list - Send posts to RMsolo@rmsolo.org Find autocrosser contact info at: http://www.rmsolo.org/reg/paging.php Archives, info and help: http://www.rmsolo.org/mailman/listinfo/rmsolo

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#11. x3S04 update - from Graeme Weston-Lewis
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Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 14:31:49 -0600 From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> Subject: x3S04 update I just got an update on the DOT status of the Hoosier x3S04. Bottom line, this tire is currently going through the approvals process. The test info has been sent to the DOT and it should have no problems. Good news given the V710 is toast! Graeme

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