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#1. Re: [E36M3] RE: [RMsolo] Kumho 710s recalled? - It's official - from Robert Chay
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Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 16:45:35 -0400 From: "Robert Chay" <lists@rchay.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: [RMsolo] Kumho 710s recalled? - It's official "Consumers will be given the choice of a free replacement of the ECSTA V710 with either the ECSTA V700 or Victoracer. They will also be provided a free set of the modified ECSTA V710 upon its arrival." Wow. -Bobby ----- Original Message ----- From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> > > http://www.kumhousa.com/V710.asp > Graeme >
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#2. RE: [E36M3] RE: [RMsolo] Kumho 710s recalled? - It's official - from Dave Spragg
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Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 17:19:12 -0400 From: "Dave Spragg" <davelist@spragg.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: [RMsolo] Kumho 710s recalled? - It's official Those SOB's should have recalled the V700 Ecsta last year... Instead they screwed me and many others out of a lots of money. For the amount of time they lasted Hoosier are cheaper! I have also noted that whatever rubber compound they are using on the V700 Victoracers (which I dearly loved) seems to have gone downhill and now blisters with ease even on lightweight cars. They sure screwed me so I am glad others will get free replacement tires... You should fight for the cash back though since their other tires blow and they have treated loyal customer abysmally now for 2+ years. Cheers, Dave "Hoosier and Toyo User" Spragg dave@spragg.com 99 M3 street ( sold :( ) 92 318is #330 IP (95 M3 engine and suspension) 03 Toyota Tundra -----Original Message----- From: Robert Chay [mailto:lists@rchay.com] Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 4:56 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: [RMsolo] Kumho 710s recalled? - It's official Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 16:45:35 -0400 From: "Robert Chay" <lists@rchay.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: [RMsolo] Kumho 710s recalled? - It's official "Consumers will be given the choice of a free replacement of the ECSTA V710 with either the ECSTA V700 or Victoracer. They will also be provided a free set of the modified ECSTA V710 upon its arrival." Wow. -Bobby
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Wanted: ABS Pump for 94 E36 325 - from Jeremy Conners
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Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 17:27:48 -0400 From: "Jeremy Conners" <jeremy.conners@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Wanted: ABS Pump for 94 E36 325 You should request this by part number. I'm pretty sure (ask me how I know) that the 'regular' E36 had Teves Mk20 systems and the E36M3 had Teves MkIVG. Caveat Emptor. -Jeremy -----Original Message----- From: Dave Kelley [mailto:d.kelley@usa.net] Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 4:06 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Wanted: ABS Pump for 94 E36 325 Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 16:00:16 -0400 From: "Dave Kelley" <d.kelley@usa.net> Subject: Wanted: ABS Pump for 94 E36 325 Anyone have a working ABS pump that maybe they have stripped out of their E36 race car? Or how about a link to a used parts dealer that may have one? Need one to fit a 94 325i. Regards, Dave Kelley 98 M3/4 94 325i
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#4. Re: Wanted: ABS Pump for 94 E36 325 - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2004 16:32:38 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Wanted: ABS Pump for 94 E36 325 on 4/5/04 3:45 PM, "Dave Kelley" <d.kelley@usa.net> wrote: > Anyone have a working ABS pump that maybe they have stripped out > of their E36 race car? Or how about a link to a used parts dealer that > may have one? Need one to fit a 94 325i. You might try: http://www.zionsvilleautosport.com Neil 96 M3
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Lighweight Battery - from Hunt Hodgetts
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Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 18:15:12 -0700 (PDT) From: Hunt Hodgetts <hhodgetts@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Lighweight Battery I have been using my lightweight battery for 6 months with no issues. http://www.gotbatteries.com/ I have the Hawker PC680. For installation, I used a shoe box and can of "Great Stuff". Once again, no problems. ===== Hunt Hodgetts (404) 644-6020 Wholesale Auto Broker Atlanta, GA Note - I only have access to my email account once a day. If you need to reach me immediately, please call my cell phone at (404) 644-6020. __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Heading to the dyno - from Alain van der Heide
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Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 20:34:28 -0600 From: "Alain van der Heide" <ajvdh1@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Heading to the dyno Looks like pin 1 of the data link connector (aka diagnostic port) is always crank rpm. Who's doing the dyno? We did a group pull at Autosport Werks a year or so ago, and they just hooked a sensor up to a random positive wire. Apparently the pickup was sensitive enough to detect the ignition pulses. It seemed to be pretty accurate on my car and on an M Roadster, but on another guys E34 540 it was waaaay off. - Alain ----- Original Message ----- From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 1:25 PM Subject: [E36M3] Heading to the dyno > Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 13:18:56 -0600 > From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> > Subject: Heading to the dyno > > I'm heading to the dyno later in the week. > Where is the best place to pick up the tach signal? > TIA, > Graeme
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#7. RE: [E36M3] RE: Overrev Damage - How can you tell? - from Patrick Goss - PA
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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 09:20:05 -0400 From: Patrick Goss - PA <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: Overrev Damage - How can you tell? I've read on somewhere the over-rev codes are not accurate. Well here it is and btw it worked on my 97M3/4 http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/test.htm -----Original Message----- From: dhogg [mailto:dhogg@suscom.net] Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 1:16 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] RE: Overrev Damage - How can you tell? Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2004 13:09:46 -0400 From: "dhogg" <dhogg@suscom.net> Subject: RE: Overrev Damage - How can you tell? Thanks, Neil. Will do. This occurred to me yesterday as well. Dave > -----Original Message----- > From: Neil Maller [mailto:neil.maller@gte.net] > Sent: Monday, April 05, 2004 9:21 AM > To: E36M3 > Cc: dhogg@suscom.net > Subject: Re: Overrev Damage - How can you tell? > > on 4/4/04 11:45 PM, "dhogg" <dhogg@suscom.net> wrote: > > > Fresh off an engine rebuild, the track car is pulling like a bull, > > probably better than ever. Like a nice-guy idiot, I let my COO's husband > > drive the car today on the street. He took 4th to about 5K, then hit > 3rd > > instead of 5th. He caught it and didn't let the clutch out the whole > way, > > but it sounded higher than 7K to me. How do I know if he ruined this > > beautiful rebuild? What should I do? > > The ECU records over-revs, and your dealer can retrieve that info for you. > Of course that won't tell you whether any damage has occurred as a result. > If there was an over-rev, the next thing to do is have a compression and > leak-down test done. This will show whether any valves got bent and are > now > failing to seat properly. It's still possible that there might be slight > damage that doesn't show up: only disassembly and inspection will show for > sure. > > If it really played out the way you describe I think you've got a > reasonable > chance of the engine being OK. Most of those nasty money-shift incidents > seem to involve full bore speed-(mis)shifts at redline. Years ago Josh at > Eurosport told me that a quite high proportion of the ECUs they saw (this > was before the Shark Injector, when you had to send your OBD-II ECU to > them > for flashing) had already recorded over-revs. It seems likely that the > owners were unaware of this and there had been no engine damage. > Supposedly > the threshold for valve float is around 7400 rpm. > > But the first thing to do is definitely to have your dealer check the ECU > stored data. If that's OK then stop worrying. If not, get the compression > and leak-down tests. > > Neil > 96 M3 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#8. Reduced power on high speed right-hand turns - from Stephen Ayers
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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 11:14:53 -0400 From: Stephen Ayers <sayer@ayersnet.com> Subject: Reduced power on high speed right-hand turns At CMP this weekend I was experiencing reduced power on the high speed right-hand turns (note the track doesn't have any sweeping left-handers). The engine just did not accelerate staying at 4000 RPM until nearly track out at which case it would pull strong down the straight. The fuel tank was 3/4 full. It didn't have the feeling of true fuel starvation, i.e., engine stumbling, momentary complete power loss, etc. I also had some trouble finding 3rd while downshifting at the end of the straights. It seemed to be a little off to the right and very intermittent. I have the UUC short shift kits and trans mount braces. Any suggestions? -Steve sayer@ayersnet.com 98 E36 M3 91 E30 M3
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#9. E36 (and more) stuff on ebay - from Rich Beebe
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Date: Tue, 06 Apr 2004 11:28:20 -0400 From: Rich Beebe <rich@beebecomm.com> Subject: E36 (and more) stuff on ebay if anybody is interested. cleaning out the cabinets, with both E36 M3s sold. http://tinyurl.com/2mw6j rich
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#10. RE: Head Gasket - from Kyle J Mathews
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Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2004 12:15:05 -0400 From: "Kyle J Mathews" <mathewsk@wam.umd.edu> Subject: RE: Head Gasket The job is not that hard, I have done it twice. As for price, it can vary from 500-1000, it depends on weather you want to just replace the head gasket ($110) or gasket set ($220), and then if you take out the cams and valve's you have valve seal cost ($45) plus lapping tools and compound ($25). Its not a bad job if you can take your time and not feel rushed. Its also a nice way to get to know your car. As for special tools, you can disassemble the head for the most part without them, you do need to make one to remove the head bolts, its just a external torx 12 that you need to grind to make thinner so it fits between the cam and the holder, not too hard. To reassemble you need the special tools to time the engine and the vanos, but you can rent those from https://www.koalamotorsport.com should call ahead because there can be a wait. If you do decide to remove the cams, here is a write up that helps get around that special tool, http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/techarticles/E36-Camshaft-Removal/E36-camsha ft-removal.htm good luck and let me know if I can be more help P.S. I had my head pressure tested (thought it was cracked) milled, and cleaned for 160 at a local machine shop. They say its a good idea to have it milled every time you take the head off so its nice and flat, I found the machine shop by calling the parts counter of the dealer I trust and getting a recommendation.