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#1. Re: [E36M3] Broken 98 E36 M3 gas pedal - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 10:54:17 -0400 From: "Vern Anderson" <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Broken 98 E36 M3 gas pedal Thanks Gerry, I plan on calling the dealer here in Ft Lauderdale first thing tomorrow. Do you recall how difficult it was to install? I tried to pull the remaining plastic piece out of the floor, but it didn't want to come out. I didn't play with it all that much, as we had to leave the track in a hurry before the evening's drag racers showed up for the Sat night drags, and I could drive the car home with the throttle lever. Really isn't safe to track it like that though, as heel-toe is impossible and full throttle requires some foot contortions. Is there supposed to be anything at the top other than the throttle-lever plastic-dowel thingy (the part that comes out of the firewall) that the gas pedal hole slides over? Is there a clip or retainer at all? I'm guessing they don't carry E36 gas pedals, hopefully they can get it in by Thursday or so. Thanks very much for the info! Vern ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gerry" <gerry@parallel-mkt.com> To: "Vern Anderson" <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com>; "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2004 10:36 AM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Broken 98 E36 M3 gas pedal > Vern, > I broke my gas pedal in the same spot as you at LeCircuit, Mt. Tremblant. Just replace the whole gas pedal with a BMW OE part. The plastic hinge at the bottom of the pedal get brittle with age and breaks. > Gerry > > > > From: "Vern Anderson" <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> > > Date: 2004/04/11 Sun AM 09:45:25 EDT > > To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > > Subject: [E36M3] Broken 98 E36 M3 gas pedal > > > > Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 09:41:33 -0400 > > From: "Vern Anderson" <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> > > Subject: Broken 98 E36 M3 gas pedal > > > > Hello all, > > > > Yesterday at Moroso, my gas pedal broke (going into turn 9 at 9/10's, which made that turn _really_ exciting as I tried to get the car to turn without the throttle). It looks like it broke off the bottom, where it was part of the plastic piece that is down in the footboard. Anyone know where I can get a replacement? I looked online, but most of the aftermarket pedals seem to attach to the existing pedal, which obviously won't do me much good. Any ideas? I'm supposed to go to Sebring next weekend, so I'm desperate for a quick fix. There is a BMW dealer 1/2 mile from me, so I'll call them first thing Monday to see what they can do. It's a 98 M3 coupe. The top has an attached plastic piece with a hole that slides over the throttle lever. There was no clip or retainer at the top, I'm not sure if there is supposed to be or not. Someone in the paddock at Moroso said he had a similar problem with his early 97 M3, but BMW made a mid-year 97 change, so his setup was slightly different at the top of the pedal. His broke off at the top, so he was able to keep his pedal and fix the top part. Thanks in advance for any help! > > > > Vern Anderson > > > > ************************************************* > > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > > ************************************************* > > > > > >
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Broken 98 E36 M3 gas pedal - from Chris Teague
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Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 11:06:58 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Broken 98 E36 M3 gas pedal Vern, Somewhere around 3/97 on, the design changed. I have a 97 with the new design. I think it's a dealer part only. It just snaps in at the bottom, and slides in on top. No clip on top. The previous part used a circlip on top for the 95's to ~2/97. The bottom part needs some prying with a screwdriver to remove, and you will probably damage the old one, but no big deal. It's easy to slide the new one on, and it clips in place firmly, but I saw no easy way to remove it without damaging it. Mine did have to be ordered, but came in a few days. Good Luck, Chris 97 M3/4 ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 09:41:33 -0400 > From: "Vern Anderson" <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> > Subject: Broken 98 E36 M3 gas pedal > > Hello all, > > Yesterday at Moroso, my gas pedal broke (going into turn 9 at 9/10's, which made that turn _really_ exciting as I tried to get the car to turn without the throttle). It looks like it broke off the bottom, where it was part of the plastic piece that is down in the footboard. Anyone know where I can get a replacement? I looked online, but most of the aftermarket pedals seem to attach to the existing pedal, which obviously won't do me much good. Any ideas? I'm supposed to go to Sebring next weekend, so I'm desperate for a quick fix. There is a BMW dealer 1/2 mile from me, so I'll call them first thing Monday to see what they can do. It's a 98 M3 coupe. The top has an attached plastic piece with a hole that slides over the throttle lever. There was no clip or retainer at the top, I'm not sure if there is supposed to be or not. Someone in the paddock at Moroso said he had a similar problem with his early 97 M3, but BMW made a mid-year 97 change, so his setup was slightly different at the top of the pedal. His broke off at the top, so he was able to keep his pedal and fix the top part. Thanks in advance for any help!
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Roundels for Sale - from Philip
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Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 11:29:01 -0700 From: "Philip" <estorilphil@highstream.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Roundels for Sale I gave away like 2-3yrs (?) worth of back issues for free to a list member sometimes ago. That's like recycling right? :-) Ummm, I wonder if the library will take them if they were donated? Having said that, I'll probably try and donate 'em to the local library next time... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Lenarcik" <lenarcik@pacbell.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Friday, April 09, 2004 7:05 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Roundels for Sale > Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 18:55:47 -0700 > From: Bob Lenarcik <lenarcik@pacbell.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Roundels for Sale > > Wow, doesn't anyone even try to recycle their old Roundels? > > Sue Kraft wrote: > > > Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2004 13:42:15 -0500 > > From: Sue Kraft <suekraft@new.rr.com> > > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Roundels for Sale > > > > Nope, can't be spam. This is still a closed list. I just threw away a > > whole shitload of old Roundels. Nobody even wanted them for free... > > > > Suzy
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Head saga goes from bad to stupid - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 11:32:54 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head saga goes from bad to stupid At 01:55 PM 4/10/04, KLchmn@aol.com wrote: >Well, today a local BMW tech and another friend of mine stopped by to put the >head back on my '95 M3 I-Stock club race car. Very kind souls indeed! As >some of you know, I'm out of commission due to a tonsillectomy and other >nose/throat surgery last week. My contribution to today's work was to sit >on the shop >stool and *supervise* (i.e., take coffee orders). Unless you also had a beer in your hand, it's not really supervising: http://www.jimbassett.com/Jim_supervising.jpg >The BMW tech was going through the final torque process on the head studs (42 >ft-lbs, per RaceWare's instructions), when one of the studs snapped! We >couldn't believe it. It is a good thing that I'm still on narcotic pain >relievers >or I'd have needed some at that point. Fortunately, we were able to get the >broken piece out of the block. <whew!> Damn! Sorry to hear about that. The number of times the head has been off my race car, I'm considering using quick-release fasteners, like on bicycle wheels, next time :-) Sheesh. >Monday morning will be interesting when I call RaceWare and see what they'll >do to fix this problem. Good luck. >Hope you all are having a better weekend than I am. Well, I decided (against my better judgement) to run the race car at Sears on Sat for 1/2 day with Speed Ventures. Wonderful weather, put in 107 miles in just over 2 hours. Fun! And the Sharks won, taking a 2-0 lead over St. Louis (that's hockey, for those not following along :-)). Except for the narcotics, I'd say mine was better <bfg>. Jim Bassett
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#5. GC Shim Question - from Murray Roblin
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Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 11:38:07 -0700 From: "Murray Roblin" <murray@farleyroblin.com> Subject: GC Shim Question How do the Ground control RTAB shims fit? Concave to carrier/convex to RTAB or vice-versa? Thanks, Murray
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#6. Optima Battery Install - from Martin Bullen
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Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 15:35:28 -0400 From: Martin Bullen <vze322dw@verizon.net> Subject: Optima Battery Install With the battery on my Z3 conking out over the winter (after 7 years, but only 22k miles) I picked up an Optima 34R (what used to be the "orange top", with reversed terminals) to put into the M3, and transferred the group 48 I'd put into the M a couple of years ago over to the Z3. It was actually pretty easy. I basically followed the principles that Shawn Fogg used to put an Optima into a Z3, which he outlines on his website: http://www.ackthud.net/shawnfogg/optima.html All I had to do was the same modication he outlines to the hold down clamp. I also found that if I turned the clamp over, I didn't need the spacer nuts Shawn mentions. The only other trick to the installation was that the cables were only just long enough. I put them in place before I snugged the battery down. Oh, and I used a battery saver, which plugs a 9v battery into the cigarette lighter, to save the radio presets/code/window initialisation, etc. The only (minor) drawback is that the tray over the battery doesn't sit quite flush, but it's not noticeable. If I'd routed the battery handle under the wires it might not even be a problem. So, no parts to buy, except the battery itself, it removes some weight from the car, is maintenance-free (and sealed, so no vent hose), and should prevent any corrosion issues caused a leaking battery. Martin Bullen '95 M3 '97 Z3 2.8
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#7. Re: [E36M3] GC Shim Question - from David Ngo
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Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 13:28:42 -0700 (PDT) From: David Ngo <rudngo@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] GC Shim Question Concave to carrier, flat side to RTAB. (Otherwise, I got mine wrong last week. ;-) ) Dave --- Murray Roblin <murray@farleyroblin.com> wrote: > Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 11:38:07 -0700 > From: "Murray Roblin" <murray@farleyroblin.com> > Subject: GC Shim Question > > How do the Ground control RTAB shims fit? Concave to > carrier/convex to > RTAB or vice-versa? > > Thanks, > > Murray > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance > http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Tax Center - File online by April 15th http://taxes.yahoo.com/filing.html
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#8. Glovebox Removal - from Lew Becker
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Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 17:08:25 -0700 From: "Lew Becker" <lmbeckercfls@earthlink.net> Subject: Glovebox Removal The ICE Link install continues: I've done it before; but, I can't remember how to drop the glovebox light, to get access to the 10 mm bolt so I can remove the glovebox. (I don't want to drill the access hole to run the cable while the box is in the car). I know at least one of you (us) knows how. So, what's the trick? Thanks. BTW: A special thanks to Jay Hudson for his tip about running the cable down the left side of the car to avoid induced noise -- I re-routed the cable (after having completed the run down the right side -- induced noise would have made me crazy) and, in the course of doing so, noted that the factory runs all the stereo wiring down the left side). Lew Becker
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Glovebox Removal - from Steve Tymoszuk
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Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 21:00:21 -0400 From: Steve Tymoszuk <steve.tymoszuk@tds.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Glovebox Removal i think the following link will help you. http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/interior/e36_glovebox_removal.html -steve Lew Becker wrote: >I can't remember >how to drop the glovebox light, to get access to the 10 mm bolt so I can >remove the glovebox. (I don't want to drill the access hole to run the >cable while the box is in the car). I know at least one of you (us) knows >how. So, what's the trick? > >
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#10. Rear shock tower - from Robert Exconde
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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004 08:31:57 -0500 From: "Robert Exconde" <99e36m3@exconde.com> Subject: Rear shock tower Greetings, Going to work today, I found the slight rattle that I thought was a loose speaker, turned into a rough banging noise. I got to work I found that the rear shock tower was torn. Basic question ... What do I do? Who to take it to in the Chicagoland area? I know I cant drive it, so I'll have to tow it; just need to know where Does anyone know what it costs to weld/fix the tower? I know its a known to happen on the E36. I live in the chicago land area, but work in Lake Forest. Robert 847-638-1539