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#1. Re: [E36M3] Head stud outcome -- not good - from Jason Knight
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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004 15:51:13 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Head stud outcome -- not good I keep an ME on retainer at all times for situations like this. Here is his response: ____________________________________ I think this equation should be applicable that is out of my design book from school. It is talking about how to figure out the torque specs to put in your instruction manual so that there is a 99% chance that the bolt will not permanently deform. You need to find out the bolt dimensions and it's surface condition to really make a good calculation, but just assume worst case and it should work. The equation is as follows**: T=KdESA Where: T=torque (in-lbs) K=Bolt Condition (see listings below) d=Bolt Major Diameter (in) E=1 (actually is the ratio of required stress induced in the bolt to tensile strength of bolt; assume to be one to imply actual achieved stress in bolt equal to tensile stress leading to failure) S=Strength of bolt achieve by 99% of a sample lot by ANSI (190,000 lbs/sq.in. per the guys email) A=Stress area of the bolt (look up on web, depends on bolt size and thread pitch) Bolt Condition K values** Nonplated, black finish 0.30 Zinc-Plated 0.20 Lubricated 0.18 Cadmium-Plated 0.16 With Bowman Anti-Seize 0.12 With Bowman-Grip Nuts 0.09 **All information from "Mechanical Engineering Design" by Shigley and Mischke, 6th edition, pg. 473 Example for 1/2-20 bolt (1/2 dia and 20 threads per inch) T=desired variable K=0.30 (assumed Nonplated, crappy bolt) d=0.500 in. E=1 (fracture of bolt) S=190000 lbs/sq.in. A=0.1599 sq.in. T=0.30*0.5*1*190000*.1599=4557.15 in.-lbs. = 379.7625 ft.-lbs. For a 1/4-28 bolt T=0.30*0.250*1*190000*0.0364=518.7 in.-lbs. = 43.225 ft.-lbs. Now, in reverse, assuming his head bolt was 1/2-20, lubricated with anti-seize T=46 ft-lbs = 552 in-lbs K=0.12 d=0.500 in. E=? S=190000 lbs/sq.in. A=0.1599 E=552/(0.12*0.5*190000*0.1599)=0.30282 which then is used for calculating the effective stress induced in the bolt by torquing it to 46ft-lbs... E=Si/Sf E=ratio Si=Stress induced Sf=Stress fracture Si=E*Sf=0.30282*190000=57,535.96 lbs/sq.in. Your factor of safety would then be Sf/Si, or the inverse of E, 3.30. Common stress areas for the following sizes of bolts are: 1/4-28 = 0.0364 3/8-24 = 0.0878 1/2-20 = 0.1599 3/4-16 = 0.373 These are from my "Universal Reference Calculator" available from TAD products Corp. I think this would be correct, and most likely the guy would need over 300 ft-lbs to break the head bolt. ___________________________________________ Anyone still reading, please don't ask me what any of this means, since I haven't a clue. I got a BA and not a BS for a very good reason! Jason --- KLchmn@aol.com wrote: > Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004 14:39:37 EDT > From: KLchmn@aol.com > Subject: Head stud outcome -- not good > > That's all well and good, but I'm curious how much > over the 42 ft-lbs I'd > have to go to break a 190,000 psi tensile strength > bolt. Anyone have that info > at hand?
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#2. E36M3- Wheel Binding Question - from JayKenty@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004 21:41:27 EDT From: JayKenty@aol.com Subject: E36M3- Wheel Binding Question I've had a clunk from the right front wheel area for a while- seems to happen on starting up from a stop, and only once a week or so. Dealer could find nothing wrong. I have a new clue that I'd like to hear some comment on from members. In changing to summer wheels, with the right front wheel off the ground, I spun the wheel in the forward direction to check free motion- OK. Then when I spun it in the reverse direction, it bound up each time. It could be forced to move in reverse with a little extra pressure. When I then moved it forward, I felt it release, and it spun freely forward again. I think the release is the source of the clunk. My amateur analysis is that sources of this problem could be pads somehow becoming cocked, or maybe an axle or bearing problem. Would greatly appreciate ideas and recommendations from the group. Thanks very much, Jay '97 M3 '01 525i stick
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Broken 98 E36 M3 gas pedal - from Vern Anderson
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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004 09:50:10 -0400 From: "Vern Anderson" <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Broken 98 E36 M3 gas pedal I stopped at the dealer here in Ft. Lauderadale (Lauderdale Imports) and they had a new pedal in stock for about $33. So either they are a really well-stocked parts department or these things break more often than I realized. Regardless, it looks like problem solved. Thanks for everyone's help, have a great week! Vern ----- Original Message ----- From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> To: "Vern Anderson" <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com>; "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2004 2:06 PM Subject: Re: [E36M3] Broken 98 E36 M3 gas pedal > Vern, > > Somewhere around 3/97 on, the design changed. I have a 97 with the new > design. I think it's a dealer part only. It just snaps in at the bottom, > and slides > in on top. No clip on top. The previous part used a circlip on top for > the 95's to ~2/97. > > The bottom part needs some prying with a screwdriver to remove, and > you will probably damage the old one, but no big deal. It's easy to slide > the new one on, and it clips in place firmly, but I saw no easy way to > remove it without damaging it. > > Mine did have to be ordered, but came in a few days. > > Good Luck, > > Chris > 97 M3/4 > > ----- Original Message ----- > > Date: Sun, 11 Apr 2004 09:41:33 -0400 > > From: "Vern Anderson" <vernon_anderson@yahoo.com> > > Subject: Broken 98 E36 M3 gas pedal > > > > Hello all, > > > > Yesterday at Moroso, my gas pedal broke (going into turn 9 at 9/10's, > which made that turn _really_ exciting as I tried to get the car to turn > without the throttle). It looks like it broke off the bottom, where it was > part of the plastic piece that is down in the footboard. Anyone know where > I can get a replacement? I looked online, but most of the aftermarket > pedals seem to attach to the existing pedal, which obviously won't do me > much good. Any ideas? I'm supposed to go to Sebring next weekend, so I'm > desperate for a quick fix. There is a BMW dealer 1/2 mile from me, so I'll > call them first thing Monday to see what they can do. It's a 98 M3 coupe. > The top has an attached plastic piece with a hole that slides over the > throttle lever. There was no clip or retainer at the top, I'm not sure if > there is supposed to be or not. Someone in the paddock at Moroso said he > had a similar problem with his early 97 M3, but BMW made a mid-year 97 > change, so his setup was slightly different at the top of the pedal. His > broke off at the top, so he was able to keep his pedal and fix the top part. > Thanks in advance for any help! >
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#4. Feeler: 96 M3 engine, tranny, driveshaft, diff for sale - from Reynaldo K Tong
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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004 20:35:12 -0700 (PDT) From: Reynaldo K Tong <chinesebmw@yahoo.com> Subject: Feeler: 96 M3 engine, tranny, driveshaft, diff for sale Hey all, I'm curious to see if anyone is in the market for this set up. The following parts are off a 1996 E36 M3, today at work I stumbled to a guy who wanted to buy a Turbo kit, and I sold him one, and he end up being a shop who does 2JZ swaps and one thing led to another and Im interested to do so. Another words, anyone is insterested in a 3.2L motor, tranny, driveshaft, 323lsd diff for sale? 75,400 miles maintained at AA. Don't want to waste anymore bandwidth, please email me privately if interested? thanks! Best Regards, Reynaldo Tong __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Small Business $15K Web Design Giveaway http://promotions.yahoo.com/design_giveaway/
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#5. Broke the Bimmer again! - from Dave Arnold
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Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 00:05:11 -0400 From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> Subject: Broke the Bimmer again! > Ok, > > So I'm volunteering at the Kentucky BMW chapter club's Teen Safety > school through the BMW foundation this past Saturday. We are getting > all of the cute teenage girls out in their parents old Audis and > BMW's, learning how to drive on slippery surfaces by setting up a skid > pad with water and gallons of liquid soap. The girl in the Volvo > station wagon makes doing doughnuts look like so much fun that when we > clear the track for the instructors to have a little fun, I take out > the ///M3. Superior German Engineering and a little rear wheel drive > action should give us all a thrill. Around we go a few times > scrubbing the tires that I'm still paying for when I decide that I'll > save a little for the Autocross course we'll set up later. On parking > the car I'm noticing enough steam and gurgling antifreeze puddles to > make the day into an expensive one as I continue to watch the young > teen age boys and girls have fun on the autocross course while my car > is placed on a flat bed for the few mile tow home. So much for the > Germans. The car looks more like puff the magic dragon relieving > itself after a night of heavy drinking. > > Seems that those superior German engineers have some sort of > temperature thermostat controlled circulatory device on a 95 M3 to > help keep the throttle body from freezing up when it's cold out. It's > got two (well mine has only one left) right angle connections for hose > attachments on some sort of temperature probe that I'm told plugs into > the air box of the 95 model only car. The previous owner put a cold > air intake on the car so this piece was just secured in the engine bay > and one of the pipes broke off. It looks like it was made from the > same quality plastic as the water pump impellers, radiator top tubes > and the V-1 rockets were made of. > > Can anyone provide me a replacement part number for this part? > > Can anyone tell me what this part is called? > > Do I have to replace it or can this just be bypassed and the two hoses > simply connected to each other? > > Oh, and if anyone can help with installing the ETK on an XP box I'll > keep my lame stories to myself. (Sysadmin installs, but under EPC, > install remains grayed out and won't install). > > Thanks in Advance > > Dave A > 95 ///M3 - Puff, The Phantom Green Piddler > > > > > >
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#6. RE: [E36M3] throttle body warmer (was: Broke the Bimmer again!) - from Bob Sutterfield
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Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004 22:23:37 -0600 From: "Bob Sutterfield" <Bob@XC.Org> Subject: RE: [E36M3] throttle body warmer (was: Broke the Bimmer again!) Dave Arnold wrote: > Seems that those superior German engineers have some sort of > temperature thermostat controlled circulatory device on a 95 > M3 to help keep the throttle body from freezing up when it's > cold out. Actually, cold ambient air isn't as much of a problem as high humidity. If you're near the dew point, the throttle body's Venturi will cause a pressure and temperature drop. The air's moisture will come out. If there's nothing cold and solid nearby, the humidity will condense as visible vapor. If there's something nearby that's cold enough, the humidity will sublimate as ice - frost. That will coat the inside of the throat, the butterfly, or whatever else is in the way. By circulating engine coolant in a jacket around the affected area, that surface is kept warm enough to avoid frost. > Do I have to replace it or can this just be bypassed and > the two hoses simply connected to each other? On my E30's M20 engine, I just connected the two hoses to each other with a barbed elbow and a couple of small hose clamps.
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#7. E36M3 Lightweight for sale - from Msebmwman@aol.com
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Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 01:04:42 -0400 From: Msebmwman@aol.com Subject: E36M3 Lightweight for sale All; I have 2 E36M3s and the LTW has to go since I'm turning my regular M3 into the daily driver/track car chimera. Please contact me if you would like additional information about this car. It is as near stock as I can get it. You can also see more at www.spgmotorsports.com/ltw/ Car is in California as am I. I am interesting in best reasonable offers. Car has 36K on it and had also been previously owned by Bob Stommel from whom I purchased it in 1999. Some of you may have seen this car at Putnam Park, LRP, WGI, Summit Point, or a few tracks out on the West Coast. 1995 M3 Lightweight VIN WBSBF9320SEH08047 Alpine white/black cloth, only 36K miles. Beautiful rare M3 (1 of ~125 made). Motorsport flags and all LTW Motorsport GT parts installed. Near stock condition and has TCKline roll bar, Euro M3 oil cooler, gauges, new Red Line fluids, maint. records, LA chapter 2003 clean car winner. $34,500 or best reasonable offer. www.spgmotorsports.com/ltw/ (CA). Thank you, Marc msebmwman at aol dot com
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#8. RE: [E36M3] M4 Coming in 2006 - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 13:34:09 -0400 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] M4 Coming in 2006 Well, there is a front-view picture...of the new 2006 M3 SEDAN. http://www.streetracersonline.com/gallery/displayimage.php?album=22&pos=5 -rb Ron Buchalski BMWCCA #76387 1995 E36 M3 1993 E34 525iT 1999 Mazda Miata 1998 Hyundai Elantra >Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2004 13:27:44 -0600 >From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> >Subject: RE: [E36M3] M4 Coming in 2006 > >Not too offensive from the side. I'll reserve judgement until I see how >Bangled the front and rear are. I *hate* the front >styling of the new 5'er. > Graeme _________________________________________________________________ Persistent heartburn? Check out Digestive Health & Wellness for information and advice. http://gerd.msn.com/default.asp
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#9. Alternative to Lojack - from Ron Buchalski
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Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 13:35:39 -0400 From: "Ron Buchalski" <rbuchals@hotmail.com> Subject: Alternative to Lojack Lojack was the best. But now, check this out: http://www.fun.from.hell.pl/2004-03-17/monkey.wmv -rb Ron Buchalski BMWCCA #76387 1995 E36 M3 1993 E34 525iT 1999 Mazda Miata _________________________________________________________________ Limited-time offer: Fast, reliable MSN 9 Dial-up Internet access FREE for 2 months! http://join.msn.com/?page=dept/dialup&pgmarket=en-us&ST=1/go/onm00200361ave/direct/01/
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#10. Grills and CEL - from Patrick Goss - PA
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Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2004 14:24:53 -0400 From: Patrick Goss - PA <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: Grills and CEL Does anyone know the going rate on the front grill support, and are there differences between years???? Pecked at a Volvo recently and lost sometime ago. I noticed a couple cheap ones on e_bay for around 70 or so plus shipping. Thinking I might get it local for more but no ship expense at least. In other news, I ran dangerously low on gas this morning, this dang range light tell me too much, so I end up pushing it. (I am not used to this much info I guess) I was on a hill steady cruising in 5th when it started to sputter, by the top I had to be in 3rd to keep momentum to make it to the gas station. I had barely enough go to reverse to pump...so how long for the CEL to go out now. How many turns of key, or should I just reset it with my peake tool? Thanks again, Patrick Goss