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#1. FS 95 M3 - from Bruce
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Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2004 20:32:42 -0500 From: "Bruce" <gobuffs93@comcast.net> Subject: FS 95 M3 80k miles, recent TC Kline trackline suspension, all cooling systems problems taken care of, new plugs have been ordered, new O2 sensor going in as well. White, black interior. Strong engine (223 hp, 210 torque)- $18.5k. Bought it a year and a half ago from the original owner. Autoscope did a PPI and said it was "a cream puff". Would make a great start for a club race car due to the strong engine. Bruce Dallas
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#2. E36 M3 Headlight improvements - from Mo Karamat
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Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2004 23:40:19 -0400 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: E36 M3 Headlight improvements Group, Hello.. With all of this talk about e36 headlight improvements, what do you guys think about the Hella Celis (SP?) ellipsoids? Any suggestions on where a good source is for ellipsoids? Thanks! Mo 98 M3/4 91 325IX 82 323i
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#3. What the best choice is for securing / alarming my car ? - from kwill69058@comcast.net
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Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 15:44:19 +0000 From: kwill69058@comcast.net Subject: What the best choice is for securing / alarming my car ? Hi, Can you tell me what the best choice is for securing my car ? I just bought my first BMW a 1995 in great condition. I have not had the car 2 weeks and somebody (3 young men) tried to steal it out of my driveway early last evening. In a busy area. I managed to look out at the same time that they made their attempt and scared them off but they want it so they will be back. Many people have told me a Viper system with remote and the GPS tracking system or a removable steering wheel? At least if they bypass the Viper, with the GPS I can get on the internet and track the car to any point. Where as the Lo-Jack has more limitations. Any thoughts ? Thanks, Keith.
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#4. RE: [E36M3] What the best choice is for securing / alarming my ca - from Go, Jeffrey
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Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 20:06:52 +0200 From: "Go, Jeffrey" <jeffrey.go@sap.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] What the best choice is for securing / alarming my ca r ? Keith, Try Clifford alarms. I have the Intelliguard 850 on my M3. It's a good alarm. ALso remember, the installation is half the battle, so make sure to find a good installer... -----Original Message----- From: kwill69058@comcast.net [mailto:kwill69058@comcast.net] Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2004 8:47 AM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] What the best choice is for securing / alarming my car ? Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 15:44:19 +0000 From: kwill69058@comcast.net Subject: What the best choice is for securing / alarming my car ? Hi, Can you tell me what the best choice is for securing my car ? I just bought my first BMW a 1995 in great condition. I have not had the car 2 weeks and somebody (3 young men) tried to steal it out of my driveway early last evening. In a busy area. I managed to look out at the same time that they made their attempt and scared them off but they want it so they will be back. Many people have told me a Viper system with remote and the GPS tracking system or a removable steering wheel? At least if they bypass the Viper, with the GPS I can get on the internet and track the car to any point. Where as the Lo-Jack has more limitations. Any thoughts ? Thanks, Keith. ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#5. Re: Idle Drops on Braking - from Nancy and Bob Fluharty
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Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 15:12:43 -0000 From: "Nancy and Bob Fluharty" <FLUHAR@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: Idle Drops on Braking Update and belated thank-you to those who responded to my problem last week. That problem, to recap, was engine speed in my E30/S50 dropping to near-stall upon braking. One thing apparent from the responses: this is a fairly common problem, and what solved it for some had no effect for others. Suggestions were: 1. Vacuum leak. I have examined every inch of the intake and everything connected to it, and have sprayed starting fluid on every pipe union or other possible leak point. I'm convinced there is no vacuum leak. As further evidence, I've noticed that I can pull off the intake-to-booster hose an hour after the engine ran, and still get a whoosh from retained vacuum. 2. Oxygen sensor. New in January. Always a possibility of a defective part, but seems unlikely. Several people said a new sensor cured the problem; others said it didn't. 3. Chip. I've got a Conforti chip. Zach Steinkamp sent me a link to an old digest post from Jim C himself, acknowledging the problem and proposing to provide another chip. (http://www.unofficialbmw.com/e36/engine/e36_m3_idle_surge.html) I called Eurosport and talked to Josh. He said it's very rare; it's only happened a couple of times; it's almost certainly. . .a vacuum leak or bad O2 sensor! 4. Idle Control Valve. Several people proposed replacing or cleaning the ICV. This is a non-trivial job on this car, so I'd like some certainty that it actually needs done before proceding. FWIW, Josh said ICV's very rarely go bad. I've been trying to pin down exactly the conditions when this happens, and here's where it gets a little weird. If I push the brake pedal, even hard or quickly, while the car is at rest and idling , it has no effect on idle. If I coast down a hill with clutch disengaged, and repeatedly brake hard, the idle is rock-steady. So braking alone is not the determinant. If I coast and repeatedly blip the throttle up to 3k or so, each time the engine returns smoothly to idle speed. So closing the throttle while vehicle is moving is not the determinant. If I let the engine speed drop below 1000 before I get on the brakes, there is no near-stall. BUT if, as I approach a stop sign, I quickly get off throttle, push clutch in, and brake briskly, engine speed will drop below 500, then surge above 1000, and I'll feel the effect on boost in the brake pedal. And my MPG-meter, which DOESN'T WORK, will briefly shoot across to max. This has turned into a long post. Let me ask 2 followup questions to decide my next step, and I'll shut up. 1. Does anyone WITHOUT an aftermarket chip have this problem? 2. Has anyone actually solved the problem by cleaning or replacing the ICV? Thanks everyone! Bob Fluharty 95 M3 <--for sale soon! 87 325is/3.0 Cincinnati
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#6. Re: [E36M3] What the best choice is for securing / alarming my ca - from Jay G
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Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 09:43:02 -1000 From: Jay G <jguzman@hawaii.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] What the best choice is for securing / alarming my ca ditto on the comment for clifford alarms...i have one in my 97 M3, and no problems...didnt the 95s come with EWS (the electronic driveaway protection) in which you need the key to get it running??? anyway, i also had a paging system incorporated to the alarm, so when the doors open or alarm goes off, it pages you via a separate pager...of course i dont really carry the pager around anymore, but it was cool back in 97...my installer also soldered every connection, instead of using crimp connectors, so it was more durable...of course if the thives really want it, they'll find a way to get it... ----- Original Message ----- From: "Go, Jeffrey" <jeffrey.go@sap.com> > > Try Clifford alarms. I have the Intelliguard 850 on my M3. > It's a good alarm. > > ALso remember, the installation is half the battle, so make sure to find a good installer...
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#7. Feedback- E36M3- Wheel Binding Question - from JayKenty@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 21:03:07 EDT From: JayKenty@aol.com Subject: Feedback- E36M3- Wheel Binding Question I posted the below message a couple of weeks ago. I only got one response, but I thought list members might be interested in the cause of the problem- the inside right front pad material was separated from its backing plate. The backing plates were very badly corroded, probably from our hideous New England salt. Those of you in the salt belt might check your pads closely if they haven't been replaced for a while. Best, Jay Previous message: "I've had a clunk from the right front wheel area for a while- seems to happen on starting up from a stop, and only once a week or so. Dealer could find nothing wrong. I have a new clue that I'd like to hear some comment on from members. In changing to summer wheels, with the right front wheel off the ground, I spun the wheel in the forward direction to check free motion- OK. Then when I spun it in the reverse direction, it bound up each time. It could be forced to move in reverse with a little extra pressure. When I then moved it forward, I felt it release, and it spun freely forward again. I think the release is the source of the clunk. My amateur analysis is that sources of this problem could be pads somehow becoming cocked, or maybe an axle or bearing problem. Would greatly appreciate ideas and recommendations from the group. Thanks very much, Jay '97 M3 '01 525i stick"
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#8. Caliper mounting bolts - from Tucker Ryals
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Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 19:43:04 -0700 (PDT) From: Tucker Ryals <tuckerryals@yahoo.com> Subject: Caliper mounting bolts Folks, I'm in the process of installing new pads and rotors and it is my first time doing so on this particular car (11/95 build). I successfully removed the calipers, hung them to the side, and pulled out the pads, but am stuck on getting the caliper mounting bolts removed from the steering arm. Does anyone have a trick for this? Given the tight quarters, it is hard to get a great deal of leverage on the ratchet. Suggestions, tricks, advice, etc. would be greatly appreciated! Tucker Ryals Gainesville, FL __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25¢ http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash
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#9. Re: Idle Drops on Braking - from Mel Silva
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Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 22:16:40 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Idle Drops on Braking Okay, I'll bite. I too had this problem and in an unrelated attempt to upgrade the battery from the Wal*Mart Special installed by the PO (no vent tube, lower AMP rating, etc), I replaced the batter with a proper sized and vented battery from Napa and the problem went away. Since changing the battery I have never had this problem again. I'm going to give Lowell kudos, and agree that this may be a voltage problem of sorts. Either the battery as in my case, or the alternator in Lowell's case was the source of the hunting idle when coming to a stop. Mine was worse at night and quite noticeable as the headlights dimmed in sync with the drop in idle speed. I don't post much on this list, since I still feel like a total noob to the BMW and the M3, but I know my way around a wrench. Oh, one more thing. After upgrading to the Shark Injector and the CAI the idle got more smooth and the idle hunting went away completely. Mel Houston, TX www.melsilva.net -----Original Message----- From: Nancy and Bob Fluharty [mailto:FLUHAR@worldnet.att.net] Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2004 2:17 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Re: Idle Drops on Braking snip... This has turned into a long post. Let me ask 2 followup questions to decide my next step, and I'll shut up. 1. Does anyone WITHOUT an aftermarket chip have this problem? 2. Has anyone actually solved the problem by cleaning or replacing the ICV? Thanks everyone! Bob Fluharty 95 M3 <--for sale soon! 87 325is/3.0 Cincinnati ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Caliper mounting bolts - from Rex Tener
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Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 20:18:53 -0700 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Caliper mounting bolts At 09:46 PM 4/18/2004 -0500, Tucker Ryals wrote: >I'm in the process of installing new pads and rotors >and it is my first time doing so on this particular >car (11/95 build). I successfully removed the >calipers, hung them to the side, and pulled out the >pads, but am stuck on getting the caliper mounting >bolts removed from the steering arm. Does anyone have >a trick for this? Given the tight quarters, it is hard >to get a great deal of leverage on the ratchet. Hi Tucker, Here is what I have done in the past. Hit the head of the bolts with a hammer or mini-sledge to help break the corrosion. I usually follow that with a hand impact driver and they come right out. :-) If that doesn't work, a floor jack can be used with a breaker bar. You can also turn the wheel all the way to the left/right to get better access to the bolts. Rex