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#1. RE: [E36M3] Caliper mounting bolts - from Mel Silva
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Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 22:34:57 -0500 From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Caliper mounting bolts I used a trick that a mechanic friend taught me with two monkeys, ...oh wait that was a 'different' friend. What I did used two box end wrenches, I forget the sizes, but use the box end that fits the bolt and use the next bigger size you have and put the box end of the second wrench over the tine, finger whatever you call it, of the first wrench. This effectively doubles the length of your box end wrench. Damn, this is so much easier to show than to describe, uh... okay, let's start with the driver's side: Turn the wheel to the right all the way, right, because the bolts are in the back of the steering arm. (God, I sound like I'm talking to a third grader, I'm sorry). Put the 18mm (I think this is the size) box end over the bolt on the caliper bolt. You are going to push down on the wrench to loosen it so, put the box end of the 19mm wrench over the bottom tine of the open end of the 18mm (make sense so far?). Now if you push down on the 19mm at the box end, you have A) a flat surface instead of an edged surface to apply pressure to and B) you 18mm wrench is now twice as long as it was giving you a lot more leverage. To do the passenger's side you want to pull up on the wrench so put the 19mm over the top tine of the 18mm. This will make sense once you try it. If I have done just a crappy job of describing what I'm talking about, send me a note and I'll take a picture of it. Mel Houston, TX www.melsilva.net -----Original Message----- From: Tucker Ryals [mailto:tuckerryals@yahoo.com] Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2004 9:47 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Caliper mounting bolts Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 19:43:04 -0700 (PDT) From: Tucker Ryals <tuckerryals@yahoo.com> Subject: Caliper mounting bolts Folks, I'm in the process of installing new pads and rotors and it is my first time doing so on this particular car (11/95 build). I successfully removed the calipers, hung them to the side, and pulled out the pads, but am stuck on getting the caliper mounting bolts removed from the steering arm. Does anyone have a trick for this? Given the tight quarters, it is hard to get a great deal of leverage on the ratchet. Suggestions, tricks, advice, etc. would be greatly appreciated! Tucker Ryals Gainesville, FL __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Photos: High-quality 4x6 digital prints for 25" http://photos.yahoo.com/ph/print_splash ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#2. RE: [E36M3] Caliper mounting bolts - from Bob Sutterfield
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Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 21:48:29 -0600 From: "Bob Sutterfield" <Bob@XC.Org> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Caliper mounting bolts You need an assortment of sockets and extensions to reach past the clutter, a breaker bar, and a floor jack as necessary. Remember to use thread locker when you reassemble.
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#3. H&R spring breakage? - from albert jenab
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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 05:13:06 -0400 From: albert jenab <jenab@his.com> Subject: H&R spring breakage? Hello, Any one heard of this happening? I have a set of Bilsteins and H&R sports on a 95 M3. Stock sway bars. Began to hear a chunking sound from the right front end over bumps, and noticed the left rear slightly elevated (1/4"). Semi-squirrelly handling on braking over bumps. Front spoiler scraped on parking lot curbs I normally don't scrape on. Put the car up on jack stands yesterday and the right front spring is broken. It looks like it partially rusted through, then failed. The break occurred right where it goes from tightly wound to more spaced-out coils. The coils collapsed on top of each other in such a way as to still support most of the load of the car. The left front is also rusted, rears seem OK. I am going to pull the rears and inspect them more closely. I have had this set-up on the car for about 5 years. I had noticed some slight rusting in front and monitored it, but not since last fall. I guess over this last winter it finally let go. It is like the powder coat was eaten off from the inside, then flaked off. The car has seen a couple of track days and no accidents. I did hit a huge pot hole a while back with that wheel. I am going to call Turner later today and ask them the same question. The car is parked (duh) until I get some new springs. I like the ride and height of the H&R's, but I am wondering about buying the same springs if this is a problem. Oh yeah, and maybe check your own H&R's if you have them. -Al 95 M3, grounded
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#4. Those who have replaced timing chain tensioners... - from Scott King
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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 07:11:59 -0400 From: "Scott King" <vw8vgti@hotmail.com> Subject: Those who have replaced timing chain tensioners... <html><div style='background-color:'><DIV class=RTE> <P>I was hoping I could get some advise from the group...</P> <P>Lately, I have started noticing an itermittent rattling in the engine compartment at approximately 2500 rpm. While my intial thought was VANOS, after operating the throttle by hand this weekend, I was able to hear/feel the rattle on the front of the cam cover. My thought now without pulling things apart is that the secondary timing chain tensioner is at fault. Anyone else experience this? The rattle does not happen all the time and only in a very small RPM window.</P> <P>For those of you who have changed tensioners, are there any watchouts? I was only able to quickly flip through the Bentley, but I didn't find much on the procedures. I have seen write ups on the primary tensioner, but never anything on the secondary. Do you have to remove the timing chain itself or anything else? From the few pictures in the Bentley, it didn't look like it was that bad to get to.</P> <P>Any advice or experieces would be greatly appreciated. I'm hoping this is another M3 project that I can tackle myself.</P> <P>Scott King </P> <P>97M3 Cincinnati</P> <P><BR><BR> </P></DIV></div><br clear=all><hr> <a href="http://g.msn.com/8HMAENUS/2728??PS=">FREE pop-up blocking with the new MSN Toolbar – get it now!</a> </html>
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Those who have replaced timing chain tensioners... - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 04:49:14 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Those who have replaced timing chain tensioners... This is most likely the VANOS adjustment unit that needs replacement. Chester --- Scott King <vw8vgti@hotmail.com> wrote: Lately, I have started noticing an itermittent rattling in the engine compartment at approximately 2500 rpm. While my intial thought was VANOS, after operating the throttle by hand this weekend, I was able to hear/feel the rattle on the front of the cam cover. My thought now without pulling things apart is that the secondary timing chain tensioner is at fault. Anyone else experience this? The rattle does not happen all the time and only in a very small RPM window. =====
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#6. Re: [E36M3] What the best choice is for securing / alarming my car ? - from hcprobst@nycap.rr.com
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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 09:31:16 -0400 From: hcprobst@nycap.rr.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] What the best choice is for securing / alarming my car ? I'm a fan of either the factory or the Stellar systems since both are plug ins. Couple one of those with a Glock 10mm and you should have no problems Carey ----- Original Message ----- From: kwill69058@comcast.net Date: Sunday, April 18, 2004 11:46 am Subject: [E36M3] What the best choice is for securing / alarming my car ? > Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 15:44:19 +0000 > From: kwill69058@comcast.net > Subject: What the best choice is for securing / alarming my car ? > > Hi, > > Can you tell me what the best choice is for securing my car ? > > I just bought my first BMW a 1995 in great condition. > > I have not had the car 2 weeks and somebody (3 young men) tried to > stealit out of my driveway early last evening. In a busy area. I > managed to > look out at the same time that they made their attempt and scared them > off but they want it so they will be back. > > Many people have told me a Viper system with remote and the GPS > trackingsystem or a removable steering wheel? > > At least if they bypass the Viper, with the GPS I can get on the > internet and track the car to any point. Where as the Lo-Jack has more > limitations. > > Any thoughts ? > > Thanks, > > Keith. > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#7. RE: [E36M3] Caliper mounting bolts - from Walter Jordan
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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 09:37:22 -0400 From: "Walter Jordan" <walter@walterj.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Caliper mounting bolts What several people are trying to tell you is that you need a longer wrench to apply enough torque to break them loose... go to sears and get a 1/2" drive "Strong-arm" or "breaker bar" and a 6" extension. They are not expensive, will be useful for many other things and won't slip and cause you to smash your face/hand/elbow when they slip while you are pressing as hard as you can. Turn the steering to get better access and all will be well... right tool for the job... yada, yada...
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Caliper mounting bolts - from Graeme Weston-Lewis
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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 08:06:12 -0600 From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Caliper mounting bolts The benefits of Walters' suggestion with the 2 wrenches is that is gives you some flexibility in the angle of your extension. Kinda like have a breaker bar that's flexibile in one axis (left/right), but solid in the axis of effort (up/down). Graeme -----Original Message----- From: Walter Jordan [mailto:walter@walterj.com] Sent: Monday, April 19, 2004 7:37 AM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] Caliper mounting bolts Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 09:37:22 -0400 From: "Walter Jordan" <walter@walterj.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Caliper mounting bolts What several people are trying to tell you is that you need a longer wrench to apply enough torque to break them loose... go to sears and get a 1/2" drive "Strong-arm" or "breaker bar" and a 6" extension. They are not expensive, will be useful for many other things and won't slip and cause you to smash your face/hand/elbow when they slip while you are pressing as hard as you can. Turn the steering to get better access and all will be well... right tool for the job... yada, yada... ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#9. Re: Caliper mounting bolts - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 09:12:08 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Caliper mounting bolts on 4/18/04 10:36 PM, Tucker Ryals <tuckerryals@yahoo.com> wrote: > I'm in the process of installing new pads and rotors > and it is my first time doing so on this particular > car (11/95 build). I successfully removed the > calipers, hung them to the side, and pulled out the > pads, but am stuck on getting the caliper mounting > bolts removed from the steering arm. Does anyone have > a trick for this? Given the tight quarters, it is hard > to get a great deal of leverage on the ratchet. The first time I ever removed these, years ago and by hand, I lost a painful amount of flesh off my knuckles! First you need to use a well-fitting 16mm 6 point socket. Apply force with an 18-24" long breaker bar. Of course you turn the steering for best access to the bolts. There's also a trick where you wedge the breaker bar against the ground, then slowly lower the car with your jack so the car's weight applies force to the bar. This would be better with two people, one to work the jack, and the other to keep the socket from slipping off the bolt head. Air tools are nice... Neil 96 M3
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Caliper mounting bolts - from ajvdh1@comcast.net
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Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 14:56:38 +0000 From: ajvdh1@comcast.net Subject: RE: [E36M3] Caliper mounting bolts I turn the wheel all the way to the appropriate side (e.g. all the way to the right for the drivers side), and use a socket on a breaker bar. If I need to, I'll slip a two foot section of pipe slipped over the breaker bar. Leverage is nice, 'cause if the bolt lets go suddenly, it's a lot easier to control things when you're not putting all your muscle into it. Make sure the head on the breaker bar swivles far enough that the bar/pipe doesn't hit the bodywork. The first time I did it I hit the bolts with some of that Wurth rust remover stuff and let it sit for 15 minutes. Since I now keep a separate set of rotors for track duty, I switch 'em out often enough that rust is not an issue. - Alain (Happy to remain ignorant about what Mel does with monkeys) -- "You can't buff out a tree." Jim Leithauser explains the advantages of autocross as a car-control training venue. > Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 22:34:57 -0500 > From: "Mel Silva" <melsilva@mindspring.com> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Caliper mounting bolts > > I used a trick that a mechanic friend taught me with two monkeys, > [snip] > -----Original Message----- > From: Tucker Ryals [mailto:tuckerryals@yahoo.com] > Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2004 9:47 PM > To: E36M3 > Subject: [E36M3] Caliper mounting bolts > > > Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 19:43:04 -0700 (PDT) > From: Tucker Ryals <tuckerryals@yahoo.com> > Subject: Caliper mounting bolts > > Folks, > > I'm in the process of installing new pads and rotors > [snip]