-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. RE: [E36M3] Re: Caliper mounting bolts - from Dave Spragg
Top
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 11:04:34 -0400 From: "Dave Spragg" <davelist@spragg.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Caliper mounting bolts After 5 years of this and wondering what the heck everyone was talking about with these getting stuck it happened to me last year. A word to the wise, it seems that once in a while something gets in there when you are reassembling and causes what I am guessing is "galling". Not sure if that is the word but it is when pressure (and thus heat) combine with dissimilar metals and make them bond together when you torque it back up. I take these bolts out 4 to 6 times a year and they never give me and trouble (what the regular box end with a 12 oz hammer once and it's loose) but once it just wouldn't move. I tried the breaker bar (22"), jack lowering trick, heating it with a butane torch, battery powered Snap-On impact wrench, and managed to partly mess up the head, bend a box end, break a regular socket and an impact socket. I was ready to do some drilling and fuming mad at this 30 minute chore turned into an full afternoon and went to Sansossio Autobody in Natick where friend and fellow racer Phil Sansossio and his Dad (Philipo) took an acetylene torch to the bolt and hit it with a SERIOUS looking and sounding air impact gun which was a step larger than the 1/2" ones and it broke loose. Even then it wasn't instant and I thought the socket was going to break or slip and it would be time for the drills. I guess what I learned was that if this occurs you really want the speedy hit of an impact gun rather than the powerful but slow force of a breaker bar trapped under the car. Dave Spragg dave@spragg.com 99 M3 street ( sold :( ) 92 318is #330 IP (95 M3 engine and suspension) 03 Toyota Tundra
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. E36 M3 units sold - from Graeme Weston-Lewis
Top
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 09:29:56 -0600 From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> Subject: E36 M3 units sold Someone here (or maybe on another board) posted a link to the annual sales of E36 M3's. Does anyone have a link to that page handy? Thanks, Graeme
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Re: [E36M3] Caliper mounting bolts - from Kevin Bishop
Top
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 10:36:23 -0500 From: Kevin Bishop <kbishop371@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Caliper mounting bolts Actually, the ETK/TIS recommend that these bolts be lightly oiled. I couldn't believe that was the case until I removed them the first time and saw that they were indeed lightly oiled. The only thing I can figure is that BMW recommends this as the chances that the bolt will freeze are greater than the chances that they'll back off. FYI, I use air tools on mine. The embarrassing part is that I the first time I did this I struggled for at least an hour before I realized that I had some "heavy artillery" available for assistance. Kevin On Apr 19, 2004, at 10:06 AM, E36M3 wrote: > -------------------- 2 -------------------- > Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2004 21:48:29 -0600 > From: "Bob Sutterfield" <Bob@XC.Org> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Caliper mounting bolts > > Remember to use thread locker > when you reassemble.
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. RE: Tensioner - from John Galt
Top
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 10:33:24 -0700 From: John Galt <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: RE: Tensioner Scott- I've gone in and replaced that and more on my '95. Suzy is hosting write-up I put together. It's in her tech section: http://bmw-m.net/TechProc/camshaft.htm I believe you'll need to remove the VANOS unit to get to the lower bolt (which is long). After replacing sprockets, the VANOS unit, lifters and tensioners, I still have a strong klacking that I can feel on the cover right above the tensioner. My last suspect: Upper Timing Chain. That's the only component I haven't replaced in the top end and at 130k/mi of service, I'm sure it's due for retirement. Actually, looking at the pictures in my write-up, it looks a bit loose. If you're going in to do the tensioner, I'd at least replace the chain as well. I'll have mine and hope to install it this weekend. I'll let you know how it turns out. Namaste, Steve a.k.a. Mad Pierot
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Where to get replacement Schrick manifold gasket? - from K Quistorff
Top
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 17:35:03 -0400 From: "K Quistorff" <kqkq@nc.rr.com> Subject: Where to get replacement Schrick manifold gasket? I pulled my Schrick intake manifold off and need to get my hands on a new gasket to reinstall it to the head. OEM/BMW rubber o-rings will not work, the Schrick manifold has a flat (not channeled) contact surface. Bought the car used, so I'm not sure where the manifold was purchased. Any suggestions on who sells replacement gaskets? Keith Q. 1996 M3 - Dinan Stage 5
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. Rotor sale, part 2 - from James Clay
Top
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 17:57:36 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: Rotor sale, part 2 I just got back from the track. Sorry, I didn't realize this would take so long to go through the system - I didn't get it in digest until it was past. If anyone still wants to take advantage of the rotor prices, I will extend them through this Thursday. These are Front rotors, not Floating - the markups in the parts business are nowhere near the 200% that would cover those! So a pair of fronts is $96, Crossdrilled are $126, call-in orders only, Zimmerman brand rotors. James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Re: Idle Drops on Braking - from Som Naderi
Top
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 16:02:30 -0800 From: "Som Naderi" <som@dimensionracing.com> Subject: Re: Idle Drops on Braking I have experienced the exact same thing you're experiencing on my 98. The only difference is that, for me, it happened when I had the AFM disconnected. I had some brake/suspension work done awhile back and when I got the car back it would stall when I lightly pressed on the accelerator. The CEL came on, also. When I had the codes read, the AFM came back as faulty. So I bought another AFM (per the mechanic's suggestion based on the fact that he'd "never seen CEL code for a bad AFM that didn't turn out to be a bad AFM"). The new AFM had the same problem. Unfortunately, the mechanic was a d*ck and kept suggesting that my problem probably had to do with loaded spark plugs or something unrelated to their work (despite the fact that the engine ran fine before I took it in). In order to get the car to work properly (or close to properly), I had to disconnect the AFM altogether. This caused the car not to stall when I lightly pressed the accelerator, but it also caused it to behave in the same manner as has been described -- the engine would stall (or almost stall) whenever I would brake somewhat hard from about 3k+ RPM and then push the clutch in at the last second (around 1000-1500 RPM). The temporary fix for me was to push the clutch in earlier and blip the throttle at the last second. When I took it to the dealer, they said that there were 2 things wrong. 1, there was a hose not attached. Unfortunately, I was so happy the car was working again that I didn't get a precise location of where the hose was -- the guy said the hose was attached *before* the AFM (I can only assume he meant between the AFM and the engine... are there any hoses that connect on the other side? I'm pretty sure no.) He said that the tech had put the hose back on and the problem hadn't been fixed. 2, the connector to the AFM was corroded. The corrosion changed the resistance from the AFM and caused the ECU to get improper readings. Now, in my case, having the connector freely floating around for about a month likely caused the corrosion, but checking it out might not be a bad idea. It was about 6 bucks to have fixed. That's my experience with it, and it probably won't help you out much, but there it is. I would say the only thing you may get out of it is that your AFM may be on the way out and maybe having it checked out might not be a bad idea. Though I would imagine the CEL would go on if the AFM had a problem. Anyways, good luck... - Som Athena - '98 M3 Coupe Alpine White
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Re: Idle Drops on Braking - from Nancy and Bob Fluharty
Top
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 19:54:33 -0000 From: "Nancy and Bob Fluharty" <FLUHAR@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: Idle Drops on Braking Mel Silva said: "Okay, I'll bite. I too had this problem and in an unrelated attempt to upgrade the battery from the Wal*Mart Special installed by the PO (no vent tube, lower AMP rating, etc), I replaced the batter with a proper sized and vented battery from Napa and the problem went away. Since changing the battery I have never had this problem again. I'm going to give Lowell kudos, and agree that this may be a voltage problem of sorts. Either the battery as in my case, or the alternator in Lowell's case was the source of the hunting idle when coming to a stop. Mine was worse at night and quite noticeable as the headlights dimmed in sync with the drop in idle speed." OK, that's an interesting theory, and one I can test! The E30/S50 (with the problem) has a chain-store battery over 4 years old. The M3 (no problem) has an Interstate less than a year old. I'll switch them and report the results. Thanks Mel! Bob
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Re[2]: [E36M3] Those who have replaced timing chain tensioners... - from Andrej Dolenc
Top
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 20:56:46 -0400 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re[2]: [E36M3] Those who have replaced timing chain tensioners... Is there a normal timeframe / mileage-frame when the Vanos units wear out? Wondering if I should worry about it a 109k miles. There does seem to be some rattling from under the hood, but then again, there's always been at least a little. Andrej Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> wrote: > This is most likely the VANOS adjustment unit that needs replacement. > Chester > --- Scott King <vw8vgti@hotmail.com> wrote: > Lately, I have started noticing an itermittent rattling in the engine > compartment at approximately 2500 rpm. While my intial thought was VANOS, > after operating the throttle by hand this weekend, I was able to hear/feel the > rattle on the front of the cam cover. My thought now without pulling things > apart is that the secondary timing chain tensioner is at fault. Anyone else > experience this? The rattle does not happen all the time and only in a very > small RPM window.
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Re: Re[2]: [E36M3] Those who have replaced timing chain tensioners... - from Chester Wong
Top
Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2004 18:16:34 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Re[2]: [E36M3] Those who have replaced timing chain tensioners... I think it varies from VANOS to VANOS. Does that make it double VANOS? <vbg> The original one that came on my car went at 2x,xxx miles. Maybe my engine is prone to eating VANOS adjustment units? Or maybe I just drive harder ;) ....Yeah! That must be it! Chester --- Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> wrote: > Is there a normal timeframe / mileage-frame when the Vanos units wear > out? Wondering if I should worry about it a 109k miles. There does > seem to be some rattling from under the hood, but then again, there's > always been at least a little. =====