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#1. Re: [E36M3] Rust in the battery compartment - from B Stoll
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Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 22:59:48 -0500 From: "B Stoll" <bobstoll@ameritech.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Rust in the battery compartment John, http://www.por15.com/ Miracles through modern chemistry...jajaja Seriously, this "rust-converter" paint is not the Duro and Rust-Ol-again-eum you buy at Pepgirls This stuff is great. I have repaired & repainted battery boxes on several cars with this. And (after the repair) I usually put a plastic marine-battery box in the bottom as a "liner" to catch any battery acid drippings. Good luck. -Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Hovell" <jhovell@stanford.edu> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, April 22, 2004 3:26 PM Subject: [E36M3] Rust in the battery compartment > Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 13:26:21 -0700 (PDT) > From: John Hovell <jhovell@stanford.edu> > Subject: Rust in the battery compartment > > Folks -- > > I pulled out my battery today to trickle charge it, as I had drained it by > leaving a light on. > > I was absolutely shocked to see brown, sludgy rust all over the bottom of > the compartment that holds the battery in the trunk. > > The battery was replaced less than a year ago with an OEM unit by a shop > who was working on my car -- they also managed to drain the battery and > left the car unattended for several weeks after which time the battery > would not hold a charge. I have heard these new batteries were sealed, > but in this case there was no vent tube installed. The battery just has a > rubber plug over what I think might be the vent tube hole, which is at the > negative terminal end of the battery, not on the positive side like they > used to be. The part number of the battery is 61-21-8-381-724. Anyone > know if this is the proper part? I'm curious why the vent tube is at the > other end. > > Is this the shop's fault? Am I over-reacting? What could have caused > this to happen? I am all but positive this area was pristine as of 1 year > ago, except for some white powder which I've been pretty good at cleaning > out on a somewhat regular basis. > > TiA for any help/suggestions here.... > > Best, > John
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#2. Re: Caliper mounting bolts - from Neil Maller
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Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 23:28:45 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Caliper mounting bolts on 4/22/04 11:06 PM, Kevin McLeaster <kmcleaster@iquest.net> wrote: >> Neil Maller wrote: >> Subject: Re: Caliper mounting bolts >> Air tools are nice... > > I'm days away from doing this for the first time myself. I'm learning that > air tools are indeed nice, but from what I understand about the clearance > issues, you can't use an impact wrench, correct? You need an air ratchet. Sure you can - I use an air impact gun (IR 2131) for this. Plenty of room with the steering turned for access. > Do the calipers have to come off to replace the front struts? They don't have to come off the car - i.e. break the hydraulic circuit - but they do have to come off the steering knuckle. Support the caliper on an upturned bucket or wire it up out of the way. Otherwise you'll find the brake hose supporting the weight of the steering knuckle/hub assembly, not a good thing. Taking the brake rotor off is optional, with easier access to the strut bolts if you do. Neil 96 M3
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#3. RE: [E36M3] Re: Caliper mounting bolts - from Johnny Lee
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Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 00:39:02 -0400 From: "Johnny Lee" <arionatof@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Re: Caliper mounting bolts I did that last year and the first time I tried I encountered the same problem. My 6" ratchet just didn't generate enough torque to loosen the bolts. Then I bought a longer ratchet from Sears and I was able to get it done. I bought a 12" ones, the thinner, polished version. HTH Johnny 1998 M3/4 >Air tools are nice... I'm days away from doing this for the first time myself. I'm learning that air tools are indeed nice, but from what I understand about the clearance issues, you can't use an impact wrench, correct? You need an air ratchet. An air ratchet that can generate the required torque is rather rare / expensive, isn't it? Do the calipers have to come off to replace the front struts? I'm getting ready to sub that job out so if they have to come off perhaps I should do the brakes afterwards myself and benefit from the bolts being "limbered up". Comments and advice welcome.
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Re: Idle Drops on Braking - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 01:14:08 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Idle Drops on Braking FLUHAR@worldnet.att.net writes: > I'm back to two possibilities: JC chip, or ICV. No one responded to my > survey-type questions from my last post, but before proceeding, I'd really > like to get a few responses, so I'll try again. For simplicity, let's stick > to '95 engines. > 1. Is this problem confined to chipped engines? Does anyone with the > stock chip experience the problem? > 2. Can anyone testify that they had the problem and cured it by cleaning > or replacing the ICV? > Bob, I must have missed your first request for help. I'll be about your best source since I have a nearly identical M3. I've owned my 1995 M3 since February 1996 when it was 2 months/2,000 miles old. Short answer, it is normal. I have used the stock chip, Dinan chip, and JC Euro HFM chip. All will do it on occasion. The stock chip was the most frequent - about once a day. The Dinan chip was better - about once a week. The JC chip is best of all - about once a month. I have long recommended the JC chip/software for drivability reasons if nothing else. JC smoothes out much of the quarks in the BMW power curve. Jim Conforti very clearly explained the reason on this list. I tried to find JC's post but couldn't find it. Now how severe is it? It really shouldn't be too noticeable. Even with my stock chip, it was not obtrusive. More of "what was that?" it happened so quick and subtle. If your dip is really noticeable, then you have other problems than normal. How long have you had your M3? How severe is the drop? If it is only dropping down to about 500 or 550 rpm, then I would not worry about it. It shouldn't occur every stop but as long as the engine is not dying, you can probably live with it. Getting to the ICV is a pain. It is under the intake manifold. Unless you have another reason to take the intake off, I would just leave it. Sorry I am not much good but hopefully knowing it is not unusual helps. Lowell Seaton '95 M3
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Re: Caliper mounting bolts - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 22:27:35 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Caliper mounting bolts At 09:36 PM 4/22/04, Neil Maller wrote: > > I'm days away from doing this for the first time myself. I'm learning that > > air tools are indeed nice, but from what I understand about the clearance > > issues, you can't use an impact wrench, correct? You need an air ratchet. > >Sure you can - I use an air impact gun (IR 2131) for this. Plenty of room >with the steering turned for access. Also plenty of room for a cordless impact in there. Since torque spec on the front bolts is 81 ft-lbs, my old 12V Snap-On handled them easily. The new 14.4V batteries, even better :-) And just to make things as easy as possible, I use a short impact socket. Jim Bassett 1998 M3/4 1993 325is #44 JP/A5
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Newbie Intro --and parts request - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 22:29:00 -0700 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Newbie Intro --and parts request Since you are local (SF Area, I am too) have you tried 002 Salvage in Hayward. Sometimes a little high but they do have parts. Also I guess you are looking for the manual version of the seat in the models with the Lux package? Kent - Not sure if I did an intro. BMW owner for the last 15 years. Previous cars were a '76 530i (great car - thermal reactors sucked. and a '88 E30 M3 that I sold about 3 years ago. My current car is a '97 E36 M3 with ~80K miles. (Currently lusting after more power - E46? Nah the wife would kill me.) Kent michael smith wrote: >Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 18:58:34 -0700 >From: "michael smith" <mwsmith99@pacbell.net> >Subject: Newbie Intro --and parts request > >I'm Michael Smith, in San Jose, California. Steve Grigory told me about this list. He also first talked me into test-driving an M3 and I've been grateful ever since. > >I work on cars and am a fan of BMWs as well as 300zxs (of which I have three in various states of modification). I also know the Mazda FD real well (a bit too well, if you know what I mean;-) > >My wife and I have owned a 1995 E36 M3 (Dakar Yellow) for a coupla years now (her daily driver). Bought it used with 50K miles. Conforti chip and K&N drop-in filter. I sneak a drive in it whenever I can. > >For some time now, we've been looking for a set of stock springs that are not too used, and also, would like to know if someone with a regular E36 has some pull-out front seats that will fit our year/model. I'm 6'5" and find the Darth seats hit me in all the wrong places. Wierdly enough, my wife is only 5'6" and has the same problem. Our E36 325 we had for awhile actually had more comfortable seats for us. But before anyone starts talking "trade" we'll keep the Vader seats and store them until such time we may actually part with this car. > >Suggestions on where to look would be appreciated. > >Thanks, and it's good to be on the forum. > >_MWS > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >************************************************* > > > > >
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: Caliper mounting bolts - from Kent L. Shephard
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Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 22:31:06 -0700 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Caliper mounting bolts The whole brake assembly needs to come apart to do the struts. I'm doing rotors soon. I'll see how bad the calipers are on my car. Kent Kevin McLeaster wrote: > Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 22:48:04 -0500 > From: Kevin McLeaster <kmcleaster@iquest.net> > Subject: Re: Caliper mounting bolts > > >> >> Neil Maller wrote: >> Subject: Re: Caliper mounting bolts >> >> Air tools are nice... > > > I'm days away from doing this for the first time myself. I'm learning > that air tools are indeed nice, but from what I understand about the > clearance issues, you can't use an impact wrench, correct? You need an > air ratchet. > > An air ratchet that can generate the required torque is rather rare / > expensive, isn't it? > > Do the calipers have to come off to replace the front struts? I'm > getting ready to sub that job out so if they have to come off perhaps > I should do the brakes afterwards myself and benefit from the bolts > being "limbered up". > > Comments and advice welcome. > > > Kevin D. McLeaster WB9HMI > '95 M3 Arctic Silver > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Newbie Intro --and parts request - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 22:43:41 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Newbie Intro --and parts request On Apr 22, 2004, at 10:36 PM, Kent L. Shephard wrote: > Since you are local (SF Area, I am too) have you tried 002 Salvage in > Hayward. > Sometimes a little high but they do have parts. Also I guess you are > looking for the manual version of the seat in the models with the Lux > package? Double02 Salvage is GREAT about supporting the the local racers, though! http://www.double02salvage.com/ - Mark
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#9. Re: [E36M3] Caliper mounting bolts - from Kevin Bishop
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Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 00:59:25 -0500 From: Kevin Bishop <kbishop371@comcast.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Caliper mounting bolts On Apr 22, 2004, at 11:06 PM, E36M3 wrote: > Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 22:48:04 -0500 > From: Kevin McLeaster <kmcleaster@iquest.net> > Subject: Re: Caliper mounting bolts > >> >> Neil Maller wrote: >> Subject: Re: Caliper mounting bolts >> >> Air tools are nice... > > I'm days away from doing this for the first time myself. I'm learning > that > air tools are indeed nice, but from what I understand about the > clearance > issues, you can't use an impact wrench, correct? You need an air > ratchet. Actually, an impact wrench will work if you turn the steering wheel all the way in the opposite direction of the side you're loosening. That gives you a lot more clearance. Another option is to use a normal depth impact socket instead of a deep one. Or if you've got a couple hundred extra bucks look at those small but powerful Ingersol Rand impact wrenches like the IR2135. Good luck! Kevin Bishop (uses a cheap impact wrench from Lowes)
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#10. Re: 99'M3 Contour wheels on 330i - from driver8 ///M3
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Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2004 04:40:58 -0700 (PDT) From: driver8 ///M3 <driver8m3@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: 99'M3 Contour wheels on 330i thats not true. many have put stock 8.5" rims on the front of e36m3s with no problems. i have 8.5" aftermarket rims on the front and needed 5mm spacers to keep the rim off the strut, but no fender rubbing. russell dakar 99 > Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2004 22:00:08 -0500 > From: Fernando Mujica <fmujica@mac.com> > Subject: Re: 99'M3 Contour wheels on 330i > > I have a '01 330i (wife's) and a '97 M3/4. Both came with the > staggered wheels 7.5/8.5 f/r. I'm almost positive both sets have same > offset f/r. If you put 8.5 all around, they will rub up front on both > cars.