-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Coolant Smell - from Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net
Top
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 22:31:59 -0400 From: <Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net> Subject: Coolant Smell I keep smelling coolant when I start my car, so of course I suspect some minor leak, but haven't seen any leaks below the car. When running, and warmed up, the coolant temp gauge shows just past half way. I would consider changing water pump, thermostat, thermostat housing, hoses and perhaps even radiator since there hasn't been any major service done to the engine in 50k miles and the car now has 145k miles on it. Of course I would like to be sure the problem isn't in the heater core, or some unrelated part first... Any suggestions on what to look for, and how to diagnose the problem? Thanks! P.S. New control arms, tie rod assemblies and Powerflex bushings up front eliminated the "slack" in the steering wheel. Regards, Stan Shaw Stan.Shaw@Excell.Net Phone: (413) 599-0399 Fax: (413) 599-0421 Excell.Net Owner/Operator http://www.Excell.Net/ 928 Owners Club President http://www.928OC.org/ 928Racing.net Team Member http://www.928Racing.net/ "Liberty once lost is lost forever." - John Adams
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Re: [E36M3] Jack Stand Newbie Question - from Zachary Eyler-Walker
Top
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 23:01:38 -0400 (EDT) From: Zachary Eyler-Walker <zwalker@cs.utk.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Jack Stand Newbie Question > From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> > > At 06:16 PM 4/27/04, Johnny Lee wrote: > > This is going to sound so ... trivial. But this weekend will be > > the first > >time I put the M3/4 on 4 jack stands. > > Usually what I do is get one front corner up on a stand first. Once one of > the front corners is on a stand, I can get my jack to reach the front > subframe, and lift the whole front up evenly and get the stands positioned. I have done it this way, too, and while it was tough to keep the car level when jacking from the front subframe (because of the tilt) it is doable. If you want to do it this way, you should just jack up from the rear jack pad -- that whole side of the car will lift off the ground. Another option is to keep a few boards around to drive the front up on, as makeshift ramps. You need just enough space to get the jack under the subframe, then lift as usual. > I usually leave the jack pads in there. That's what they're there for. I think they're more there for commercial lifts, not jack stands, though. Not exactly a confidence inspiring fit. That said, I use them, too. > Once it's up on all fours, I'll give the side of the car a good shove. > Chance are good that if I can't push it off the stands, it won't fall on me > :-) So far, so good, under 2 E36s <knock on wood>. Yeah, always a good idea. I would also recommend using back up devices as possible. What I usually do is put one of my wheels sideways under the car near where I'm working. I don't think I'd be comfortable getting under the car with just four little jackstands holding it up. Look around with google and you'll find a few sites that discuss this, some including pictures. Good luck. Zach
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. RE: [E36M3] Jack Stand Newbie Question - from Johnny Lee
Top
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 23:21:15 -0400 From: "Johnny Lee" <arionatof@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Jack Stand Newbie Question Great! Thank you (and Jim)'s help. I have a pair of Rhino ramps which I usually drive up to do oil change, raditor service type of work. I will just use it to drive up so I can lift by the from subframe. And I use the ramps as my secondary safety device ... -----Original Message----- From: Zachary Eyler-Walker [mailto:zwalker@cs.utk.edu] Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 11:06 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Jack Stand Newbie Question Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 23:01:38 -0400 (EDT) From: Zachary Eyler-Walker <zwalker@cs.utk.edu> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Jack Stand Newbie Question > From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> > > At 06:16 PM 4/27/04, Johnny Lee wrote: > > This is going to sound so ... trivial. But this weekend will be > > the first > >time I put the M3/4 on 4 jack stands. > > Usually what I do is get one front corner up on a stand first. Once one of > the front corners is on a stand, I can get my jack to reach the front > subframe, and lift the whole front up evenly and get the stands positioned. I have done it this way, too, and while it was tough to keep the car level when jacking from the front subframe (because of the tilt) it is doable. If you want to do it this way, you should just jack up from the rear jack pad -- that whole side of the car will lift off the ground. Another option is to keep a few boards around to drive the front up on, as makeshift ramps. You need just enough space to get the jack under the subframe, then lift as usual. > I usually leave the jack pads in there. That's what they're there for. I think they're more there for commercial lifts, not jack stands, though. Not exactly a confidence inspiring fit. That said, I use them, too. > Once it's up on all fours, I'll give the side of the car a good shove. > Chance are good that if I can't push it off the stands, it won't fall on me > :-) So far, so good, under 2 E36s <knock on wood>. Yeah, always a good idea. I would also recommend using back up devices as possible. What I usually do is put one of my wheels sideways under the car near where I'm working. I don't think I'd be comfortable getting under the car with just four little jackstands holding it up. Look around with google and you'll find a few sites that discuss this, some including pictures. Good luck. Zach ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. Re: [E36M3] Jack Stand Newbie Question - from Mark Dadgar
Top
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 20:11:13 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Jack Stand Newbie Question On Apr 27, 2004, at 8:06 PM, Zachary Eyler-Walker wrote: >> Once it's up on all fours, I'll give the side of the car a good shove. >> Chance are good that if I can't push it off the stands, it won't fall >> on me >> :-) So far, so good, under 2 E36s <knock on wood>. > > Yeah, always a good idea. I would also recommend using back up > devices as > possible. What I usually do is put one of my wheels sideways under the > car near where I'm working. I don't think I'd be comfortable getting > under the car with just four little jackstands holding it up. I also give the car a push as well as put a wheel or two under the frame rail. I also leave the jack under a frame rail with the jack saddle just touching the car. So with cars, like underwear, you can never have too much support. - Mark ----- mark@pdc-racing.net
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Re: Jack Stand Newbie Question - from Fernando Mujica
Top
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 22:19:17 -0500 From: Fernando Mujica <fmujica@mac.com> Subject: Re: Jack Stand Newbie Question I replaced all 4 jack pads on my E36 M3/4 with the E46 rectangular shaped ones. I got the shallower ones that had a lock pin in the middle. I also got the same 3 1/2 ton Craftsman jack stands and cut out the ends so that they fit in the rectangular pad. I think the E46 style pads are more stable than the E36 ones for keeping the car up in four jack stands. I also have an E46 330i so this works for both cars. As for the procedure: I start with the front sub-frame mount, jack up the front set jack stands. Then jack up the rear from the diff mount. Fernando On Apr 27, 2004, at 9:26 PM, E36M3 wrote: > Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 21:21:45 -0400 > From: "Johnny Lee" <arionatof@comcast.net> > Subject: Jack Stand Newbie Question > > Folks, > > This is going to sound so ... trivial. But this weekend will be the > first > time I put the M3/4 on 4 jack stands. I am using 4 of those Sears 3.5 > tons > jacks. What is the proper order of events to put the car on all 4 jack > stands (as you can tell, I have never done it, not even on two jack > stands.) > I am going to a friend's house, and he has the Sears aluminum floor > jack, so > it ought to help a bit. I am going to take out the hockey pucks and > just > use some newspaper to sandwich between the jack stand and the chassis. > BTW, > I still have one of the E46 jack pads left from when I did the Stygar > drill-through hockey puck conversion, and I realized that the E46 jack > pads > fits the Sears jack stand quite well. has anyone tried that before? > > The reason I am putting the car on jack stands is that I am doing > RTABs, > transmission and differential fluids, fuel filter, changing the muffler > hanging brackets, flush brake fluids. it should be an eventful day :) > > TIA, > > Johnny > > 1998 M3/4 ~78K
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. Re: Jack Stand Newbie Question - from Bill Steele
Top
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 20:22:01 -0700 (PDT) From: Bill Steele <autoxcrazy@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: Jack Stand Newbie Question I just replaced my RTAB's this past weekend -- my first time doing the job. I have a pair of jack stands, a pair of those cheap metal ramps that you can drove some cars on, and a floor jack. I used the floor jack on the front stock lift points to lift the front end up (one side then the other) and placed the tires on the ramps (there is a slight depression in the top of the ramp that helps to keep the vehicle from rolling forward). To get the rear in the air I placed the floor jack under the cross support over the rear differential. I lifted the rear of the car and placed the jack stands under the stock lift points in the rear. This configuration was very stable for me. I had plenty of room to work under the car and got the trailing arm bushings out with no problems. I rented the proper tool from Brett A. -- I can't imagine how you would get them out and back in w/o it! It was a really tight fit! I also added the limiter kit sold by Turner. Tightening the bolt that goes through the carrier was a little difficult because the bushing flexes while you are applying force. I finally used a ratchet and socket (18mm?) with a long piece of pipe for leverage on one side and the torque wrench on the other end and worked them in different directions. Good luck -- feel free to email me if you have any questions. Bill 99 M3 --------------------------------- Do you Yahoo!? Win a $20,000 Career Makeover at Yahoo! HotJobs
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Was Jack Stand, now RTAB - from Johnny Lee
Top
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 23:57:16 -0400 From: "Johnny Lee" <arionatof@comcast.net> Subject: Was Jack Stand, now RTAB Well, I am using the BT hacksaw method since I didn't plan well enough to go the route of renting the tool. So I just figure if someone else has fdone it, I ought to be able too. But if someone has the proper tool to rent and is located in the DC/VA/MD area, please send me an email ... >I had plenty of room to work under the car and got the trailing arm >bushings out with no problems. I rented the proper tool from Brett >A. -- I can't imagine how you would get them out and back in w/o >it! It was a really tight fit!
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. RE: [E36M3] Was Jack Stand, now RTAB - from Dave Arnold
Top
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004 00:08:37 -0400 From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Was Jack Stand, now RTAB I just changed these out on a friends car (95 M3) and getting ready to do this on mine. We rented the tool, messed with it for about 30 minutes, snapped the threaded rod, then took a drill, air saw (Harbor Freight $19.95)and cut them out much faster. I'm not going to bother with the tool on mine as the saw was much easier for us. A friend holding the arm down so there is clearance makes the job much easier, although I'm sure it can be done alone. Although, who will hold your beer while you saw your car apart if your alone? Dave A 95 ///M3 "HIOFCR" -----Original Message----- From: Johnny Lee [mailto:arionatof@comcast.net] Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 11:56 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Was Jack Stand, now RTAB Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 23:57:16 -0400 From: "Johnny Lee" <arionatof@comcast.net> Subject: Was Jack Stand, now RTAB Well, I am using the BT hacksaw method since I didn't plan well enough to go the route of renting the tool. So I just figure if someone else has fdone it, I ought to be able too. But if someone has the proper tool to rent and is located in the DC/VA/MD area, please send me an email ... >I had plenty of room to work under the car and got the trailing arm >bushings out with no problems. I rented the proper tool from Brett A. >-- I can't imagine how you would get them out and back in w/o it! It >was a really tight fit! ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. RE: [E36M3] Was Jack Stand, now RTAB - from Dave Arnold
Top
Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2004 00:08:56 -0400 From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Was Jack Stand, now RTAB I just changed these out on a friends car (95 M3) and getting ready to do this on mine. We rented the tool, messed with it for about 30 minutes, snapped the threaded rod, then took a drill, air saw (Harbor Freight $19.95)and cut them out much faster. I'm not going to bother with the tool on mine as the saw was much easier for us. A friend holding the arm down so there is clearance makes the job much easier, although I'm sure it can be done alone. Although, who will hold your beer while you saw your car apart if your alone? Dave A 95 ///M3 "HIOFCR" -----Original Message----- From: Johnny Lee [mailto:arionatof@comcast.net] Sent: Tuesday, April 27, 2004 11:56 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] Was Jack Stand, now RTAB Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 23:57:16 -0400 From: "Johnny Lee" <arionatof@comcast.net> Subject: Was Jack Stand, now RTAB Well, I am using the BT hacksaw method since I didn't plan well enough to go the route of renting the tool. So I just figure if someone else has fdone it, I ought to be able too. But if someone has the proper tool to rent and is located in the DC/VA/MD area, please send me an email ... >I had plenty of room to work under the car and got the trailing arm >bushings out with no problems. I rented the proper tool from Brett A. >-- I can't imagine how you would get them out and back in w/o it! It >was a really tight fit! ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Re: [E36M3] Jack Stand Newbie Question - from Jim Bassett
Top
Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2004 21:13:47 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Jack Stand Newbie Question At 08:06 PM 4/27/04, Zachary Eyler-Walker wrote: >Another option is to keep a few boards around to drive the front up on, as >makeshift ramps. You need just enough space to get the jack under the >subframe, then lift as usual. Good idea. I should really do this especially for the race car since it sits pretty low. >Look around with google and you'll find a few sites that discuss this, >some including pictures. One good place is: http://www.unofficialbmw.com/all/tools/all_jacking_and_supporting_your_car.html Jim Bassett