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#1. Re: Major Hesitation/Loss of Power - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 12:06:11 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Major Hesitation/Loss of Power on 6/7/04 11:41 AM, "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> wrote: > Last night I finally got an error reading. Here is the list: > F4 Flywheel adaption segment timing faulty > 53 Crankshaft sensor > FO Misfire # 3 > EF Misfire # 2 > F1 Misfire # 4 Several years ago there was a Service Action on the crank position sensor which called for replacing both the sensor and its wiring harness. The misfire is likely a consequence of the faulty sensor screwing up your ignition timing. Your car's symptoms are 100% consistent with a failing crank sensor - BTDT. It's located someplace down on the block, but I forget which side. > I am going in circles. Well, when the error code says Crank Sensor... Neil 96 M3
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#2. Vibration under hard braking - from Michael Michalski
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Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 12:26:43 -0500 From: "Michael Michalski" <MMichalski@srigroup.com> Subject: Vibration under hard braking Hi Guys, It has been awhile since I have asked for some advice on a problem I have been having recently on my 97 M3 Coupe MT, which I guess is good ;-). Unfortunately I have this problem and I need some help figuring it out. The problem I am having recently is a vibration I feel in the steering wheel when I apply the brakes rather hard. I am wondering what could cause this vibration. The car has Zimmerman front cross drilled rotors with new pads and the rear has stock M3 rotors with new pads. Thank you in advance. Michael Michalski 97 ///M3
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#3. Re: [E36M3] Re: Major Hesitation/Loss of Power - from Rex Tener
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Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 10:50:10 -0700 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: Major Hesitation/Loss of Power At 12:11 PM 6/7/2004 -0500, Neil Maller wrote: >Your car's symptoms are 100% consistent with a failing crank sensor - BTDT. >It's located someplace down on the block, but I forget which side. I agree with Neil's diagnosis. We went through this with our black car, a 1996 M3, in 1999. Rex
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Weird Overheating Problem With Race Car - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 11:18:33 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Weird Overheating Problem With Race Car At 07:31 AM 6/7/04, mzealot@bellsouth.net wrote: >If anybody has an idea or a guess, I would be happy to hear any opinion or >input. To add to what Walter said, definitely have the system and cap pressure tested. Also, think about having the catch tank replaced. Several racers have reported problems with them lately. Also, try placing your temp sender in the hose to the right of the thermostat, like I've done: http://www.jimbassett.com/WaterTemp1.jpg I get very reliable readings. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett ---- Hardware Engineer for hire http://www.jimbassett.com/Resume1.htm
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Vibration under hard braking - from Jim Bassett
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Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 11:23:39 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Vibration under hard braking At 10:41 AM 6/7/04, Michael Michalski wrote: >It has been awhile since I have asked for some advice on a problem I have >been having recently on my 97 M3 Coupe MT, which I guess is good >;-). Unfortunately I have this problem and I need some help figuring it >out. The problem I am having recently is a vibration I feel in the >steering wheel when I apply the brakes rather hard. I am wondering what >could cause this vibration. The car has Zimmerman front cross drilled >rotors with new pads and the rear has stock M3 rotors with new pads. Thank >you in advance. Is is short little vibrations, or larger ones? If it's the former, then I would guess it's the new pads getting bedded into the cross-drilled rotors. If it's larger vibrations, maybe warped rotors, or bad wheel bearings, or something else in the front suspension. (FWIW, I hate drilled rotors. Less pad contact area, less heat-sink area, and that annoying "cheese-grater" feeling. YMMV.) Hope that helps, Jim Bassett ---- Hardware Engineer for hire http://www.jimbassett.com/Resume1.htm
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Major Hesitation/Loss of Power - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 11:26:17 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Major Hesitation/Loss of Power This might be a long shot, but are you sure your battery and charging system are in good order. Low voltage will cause some very strange things to happen. Jay ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 9:31 AM Subject: [E36M3] Major Hesitation/Loss of Power > Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 12:17:58 -0400 > From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> > Subject: Major Hesitation/Loss of Power > > Group, > > Last week I had a post regarding hesitation on my car. Once again, here > is the scoop: > > Car started jerking 2 months ago (like a severe fuel cut) once in a > while around 2-3K, and would run fine. I thought it must be the spark > plugs and would do the entire Inspection II together. > > Last week, it started jerking more often especially when fully warmed > up. Runs fine from cold; after the temperature gauge climbs to the 1/2 > way mark, it accelerates perfectly fine under WOT. After a while it > begins to hesitate. Jerking really badly; I can watch my tach go up and > down, and the check engine light would flash along with it (and would > not stay lit). No problem under idle. Cursing or accelerating jerks the > car a lot (like on/off on power). Drive it more, there is absolutely NO > POWER. WOT and the car sounds like its misfiring and there is just no > power. Engine is jerking so you can feel it misfiring as well. Now there > is no hesitation or jerking; just no power what so ever. First gear to > 6K takes literally 5 secs. Let the car rest/cool and start it up, she > runs fine and then the symptoms repeat in the above order till there is > no power. > > Peake Tool Reading: -- (No errors). > I replaced the sparkplugs. Problem remains. > I exchanged all 6 ignition packs from a friend's M3. Problem remains. > > Last night I finally got an error reading. Here is the list: > F4 Flywheel adaption segment timing faulty > 53 Crankshaft sensor > FO Misfire # 3 > EF Misfire # 2 > F1 Misfire # 4 > > Here is what I am thinking: > > I discounted out the injectors and the ignition (new plugs and working > ignition packs) since the car runs fine and will redline fine in all > gears early on (there the problem is heat dependent). > > Reminds me of my 98/4 when it would misfire along higher rpms (back then > the car was under warranty) and the dealer had to replace the cat > (faulty). > > I am going in circles. Anyone has issues like this? HELP! > > Thanks in advance, > > Ahmad > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > >
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Vibration under hard braking - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 11:28:59 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Vibration under hard braking Could be pad transfer. Could be warped rotors. Could be wheel out of balance. I'd check for pad transfer 1st. Jay ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Michalski" <MMichalski@srigroup.com> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 10:41 AM Subject: [E36M3] Vibration under hard braking > Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 12:26:43 -0500 > From: "Michael Michalski" <MMichalski@srigroup.com> > Subject: Vibration under hard braking > > Hi Guys, > > It has been awhile since I have asked for some advice on a problem I have been having recently on my 97 M3 Coupe MT, which I guess is good ;-). Unfortunately I have this problem and I need some help figuring it out. The problem I am having recently is a vibration I feel in the steering wheel when I apply the brakes rather hard. I am wondering what could cause this vibration. The car has Zimmerman front cross drilled rotors with new pads and the rear has stock M3 rotors with new pads. Thank you in advance. > > Michael Michalski > 97 ///M3 > > > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > >
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#8. RE: [E36M3] Vibration under hard braking - from Walter Jordan
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Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 14:41:36 -0400 From: "Walter Jordan" <walter@walterj.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Vibration under hard braking Also, check the tie rods and steering rack for play. When the wheels are raised, try moving them on the steering axis by pushing one - you should feel zero slop. -----Original Message----- From: Jim Bassett [mailto:jim@jimbassett.com] Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 2:32 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Vibration under hard braking Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2004 11:23:39 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Vibration under hard braking At 10:41 AM 6/7/04, Michael Michalski wrote: >It has been awhile since I have asked for some advice on a problem I have >been having recently on my 97 M3 Coupe MT, which I guess is good >;-). Unfortunately I have this problem and I need some help figuring it >out. The problem I am having recently is a vibration I feel in the >steering wheel when I apply the brakes rather hard. I am wondering what >could cause this vibration. The car has Zimmerman front cross drilled >rotors with new pads and the rear has stock M3 rotors with new pads. Thank >you in advance. Is is short little vibrations, or larger ones? If it's the former, then I would guess it's the new pads getting bedded into the cross-drilled rotors. If it's larger vibrations, maybe warped rotors, or bad wheel bearings, or something else in the front suspension. (FWIW, I hate drilled rotors. Less pad contact area, less heat-sink area, and that annoying "cheese-grater" feeling. YMMV.) Hope that helps, Jim Bassett ---- Hardware Engineer for hire http://www.jimbassett.com/Resume1.htm ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#9. RE: Weird Overheating Problem With Race Car - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 12:30:03 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Weird Overheating Problem With Race Car "1st - have head checked for compression/leak down" All of the tests cited are good diagnostics! Assuming correct bleeding of the cooling system has been accomplished, my suspicion would be a slight head gasket leak that allows combustion pressure into the head/cylinder water passages causing over-pressurization of the cooling system - blow off/consumption of coolant and possible trapped air in the system. Kim L Burgess
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#10. Rear Subframe Adventure - from Steve Klein
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Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2004 15:00:08 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Rear Subframe Adventure Hi, Gang- Sunday, I decided I had all the tools and equipment at the ready to disassemble the entire rear subframe and replace all the bushings that I've been worried about. This would also give me a chance to eliminate all the possible klunking sources in the rear of the car (I suspect I need new spring hats up front after 133k/mi, but that's the other end of the car and another plot). With the rear of the car securely on jack stands and the front heavily choked, it was actually a very straightforward process to disassemble everything. I found that it was much easier to just lift and remove the diff. by hand rather than use a jack and wiggle it around. Let me rephrase that: being big made it much easier to do by hand. To my surprise, even at this age, all the bushings were in remarkable condition. The cracks that had me worried on the front of the diff. were only on the surface, so I wound up just cleaning everything up, marveling at the robustness and longevity of the design, and leaving most of the bushings in. What I DID replace, were the ball joints on the wheel hub that the upper trailing arms connect to. They were a bit trickier to get to because they're at an angle, but I could feel a good amount of play and actually make the bearings click by hand when I wiggled them. On my test drive last night, the back end was much quieter and felt much more solidly planted in turns. Because of the location of the arm and spring, it makes sense that on the larger bumps where I was hearing the klunks, it may have been the shifting in loads on that ball joint. Could that little bit of play (approx .5 mm on each ball joint) make a significant difference in how the back feels? Like I said, all other bushings (including the recently replaced trailing arm bushings with GC spacers) are in tip-top shape. Thanks for listening, and I'd welcome any feedback, Steve