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#1. Re: [E36M3] Box of marbles exorcised after two years - from ajoseph1981@earthlink.net
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Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 10:22:52 -0500 (GMT-05:00) From: ajoseph1981@earthlink.net Subject: Re: [E36M3] Box of marbles exorcised after two years > -------------------- 5 -------------------- > Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 00:31:16 EDT > From: LoweSeaton@aol.com > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Box of marbles exorcised after two years > > chester_p_wong@yahoo.com writes: > > > Timing the whole thing is a bit trickier. If you follow the TIS word for > > word, you will most likely end up with an intake cam that starts retarded > > and advances to only slightly past normal. > > Ask me how I know this to be true! One of the local Dallas CCA club tech > advisors incorrectly timed my single VaNoS '95 M3. I argued with him for 4 > months trying to convince him. Finally I had to pay another mechanic to correctly > time my M3 and even then I don't know if the second mechanic would have done > it right if I hadn't been coaching. > > > > > You need a TDC gauge, skip one tooth of the VANOS engagement before sucking > > the unit in, and need to adjust the intake cam w.r.t. the exhaust cam after > > all is said and done. > > > > I'm not sure I follow all three of Chester's steps but he has the right idea. > Chester - when you say "TDC gauge", do you mean the pin you stick in the > transmission bellhousing to hold the crankshaft at TDC? That is a "no-brain" way > to ensure the crank is at TDC (at cylinder #1) but there is also a timing > mark on the crank pulley/damper you can use. Or you could use a dial indicator > through the #1 spark plug hole to determine when the #1 cylinder is at TDC. I > don't believe the BMW pin tool will work if you have an aftermarket flywheel. > > The key to correctly timing the single VaNoS E36 motor is to absolutely and > completely push the splined VaNoS gear into the VaNoS housing. You must have > it completely "retarded" before you begin to slide it onto the studs. > > And the other key critical step is to completely and absolutely turn the > intake cam sprocket clockwise until it stops before installing the VaNoS unit. I > think this is where most mistakes in timing the E36 engine are made. You have > to make damn sure the intake cam sprocket is all the way clockwise, i.e, > "advanced." The secondary chain and/or intake cam sprocket can catch and you may > think you are all the way clockwise when you are not. My advice is to "clock" > it several times to get a good feel where the stop is and then do it three > more times to make sure. There is a special BMW tool made for clocking the > intake cam sprocket (you actually turn the exhaust cam sprocket but the secondary > timing chain then rotates the intake cam sprocket - same difference) but I > think you can get by without the special tool if you are careful and diligent. To make the above step extra fun, the holes in the sprockets (in my case) do not jive with the TIS instructions anyways...When you put the sprockets and chain in place on the front of the cams, you are supposed to be centered in both sets of holes. Well, that wasn't exactly the case. If you center the holes in the exhaust sprocket, the holes in the intake sprocket are off center and vice-versa. I finally settled on a setting where clocking the exhaust sprocket fully clockwise prior to offering up the new VANOS unit resulted in about 3-5 degrees of opening still left in the intake sprocket. My reasoning: starting out with the exhaust sprocket centered, the holes in the exhaust sprocket are smaller, so you can not clock it as far to start with. When the VANOS is all the way extended, you will not be up against the 'stops' in the intake sprocket, thereby you will have all the travel of the VANOS available. > > When installing the VaNoS unit onto the now well clocked intake cam sprocket, > the most you want to skip is one tooth. You want to engage the teeth as soon > as possible or else you are reducing the available timing advance from the > VaNoS. Again, I think this is another mistake mechanics make when timing an E36 > motor. Just plain carelessness on the mechanic's part. > > I'm not sure what Chester meant by his third step "adjust the intake cam > w.r.t. the exhaust cam after all is said and done." I think I covered the same > idea above. > > Probably the one special BMW tool you do need is the camshaft jigs to hold > the two camshafts still while you clock the intake cam sprocket as I described > above. These are the same cam blocks that somebody tried to borrow from > Chester and got snippy when Chester didn't FedEx them overnight to the guy. But > after my research and supervising the timing of my camshafts, I would almost > wager you could get by without them too. All you need to do is visually observe > that the camshaft "blocks" are 90 degrees with the cylinder head. I would even > be tempted to cheat a little and give the intake camshaft a tad bit more > advance timing to insure the VaNoS fully advanced. You loose a fraction of the > VaNoS advance depending on how far you have to turn back the intake cam sprocket > to engage that first tooth on the VaNoS spline gear. I have to agree with Lowell here...using the jigs and the dowel pin to time everything makes a lot of this much simpler. you don't have to worry about moving anything while you are in there turning and twisting this and that. I was able to confirm that my VANOS was fully advancing by measuring the amount that the VANOS would advance and then installing it. While the exhaust cam was still loose, I put 60psi air to the unit, energized the solenoid, and let the splined cup push in to the intake cam. I then measured the amount of the shaft that was protruding from the VANOS unit, and viola, full extension. I then took everything apart, retarded the VANOS, reclocked, and reinstalled everything, and hoped for the best...so far so good. > > If you need to R&R your VaNoS or camshafts, you won't go wrong having Chester > oversee the operation. > > Lowell Seaton > '95 M3 Or Lowell... --Andrew Joseph Free Breathing '95 M3
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#2. RE: [E36M3] RE: Weird Overheating Problem With Race Car - from Michael Lawrence
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Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 13:50:48 -0400 From: "Michael Lawrence" <95m3ltw@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] RE: Weird Overheating Problem With Race Car I cant stress enough to have the motor tested for a leaking head gasket. I have seen too many racers wonder where the water is going during each session only to have a major hydro lock in a race. My co-driver went thru this EXACT problem. Turns out the head gasket was leaking between 5-6 and finally let go at 130mph at Summit Point. Ruined the engine. The motor will NOT lose performance if the head gasket is leaking, trust me. It will run great, but just overheat after a period of full throttle. I have seen cases where the car ran fine for 1000's of miles, only overheating after periods of 45secs of full throttle. Further investigation found a leaking head gasket. I would even venture to say most motors that blow up, so to speak, on the track are the result of a slow head gasket leak that went undetected. I have seen too many with the classic symptoms. They were using a quart or 2 of water ever so often, no other signs of problems. If the cap is bad, there should be signs of fluid residue around it Mike -> -----Original Message----- -> From: mzealot@bellsouth.net [mailto:mzealot@bellsouth.net] -> Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 8:02 AM -> To: E36M3 -> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Weird Overheating Problem With Race Car -> -> -> Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 07:53:39 -0400 -> From: <mzealot@bellsouth.net> -> Subject: Re: [E36M3] RE: Weird Overheating Problem With Race Car -> -> Thanks for all the feedback. As always this list is a great resource. -> -> I am leaning towards the radiator cap, but will go ahead and -> get the Fluidyne radiator or the Euro M3 triple core. -> -> As far as the head gasket is concerned, the engine is fine, -> they don't run like this one did with a leaky HG! I think -> the start of the problem was following an AS Mustang too -> close or maybe the GT1 Camaro, not sure! LOL! -> -> Thanks again everybody! -> -> -> -> ************************************************* -> Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: -> -> Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com -> Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com -> Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com -> Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com -> -> DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm -> ************************************************* -> ->
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#3. BBS Wheel Specials - from James Clay
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Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 15:03:40 -0400 From: "James Clay" <james@bimmerworld.com> Subject: BBS Wheel Specials Only 3 sets available (12 wheels), sold in sets of 4 only, $1100 per set - BBS RK, 18x8.5, 38et, E36/46 fitment, ball polished (very shiny, polished aluminum with clearcoat - not a silver paint). Please email me if interested, I am putting them on the website tomorrow if they aren't sold. James Clay http://www.bimmerworld.com Engineered BMW Performance 540.639.9648
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#4. Re: VANOS Sprocket Timing - from Steve Klein
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Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 15:51:14 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Re: VANOS Sprocket Timing Lowell- Excellent information! In the three times I've pulled the VANOS, I noted all the relationships between parts and reassembled to replicate their original positions, but I've wondered about how the timing is set exactly. Can you clarify the starting and ending positions of the sprockets with respect to the slots and the studs that they ride over when re-inserting the VANOS splined cup? By having the intake secondary chain sprocket fully clockwise, that puts the studs at the far left of the slots in the sprocket, correct? (Specifically, from the front of the engine, the slot on the upper section of the sprocket would have the stud at the left edge?) Where does that leave the exhaust sprocket slots in relation to the studs? Also left justified? When inserting the splined cup, it causes the entire secondary chain/sprocket combo to rotate Counter Clock Wise, correct? So the object is to reassemble the system with as little pre-rotation CCW, trying to keep the studs as close to the left edge of the slots as possible and leaving the most effective range of adjustment for the VANOS splined cup to push/pull the intake sprocket/shaft relationship? (about 12 deg., right?) I think that's how I've reasoned it subconsciously, but I'd love to understand proper timing so that I'm not just imitating what I see and remember. Thanks again for the useful info! Steve
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#5. OT: ceramics - from jason
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Date: 09 Jun 2004 14:18:13 -0700 From: jason <jason@doomba.com> Subject: OT: ceramics i got my first ceramic kitchen knife yesterday and its quite fascinating. very light when you pick it up and the white blade looks weird. it is supposed to hold its edge really good and the guy who sharpened it said it turned red hot while he sharpened it, but didn't effect anything. got me curious about ceramics for brake rotors. seems the weight and heat characteristics would make them ideal. just curious what the collective opinion is... jason PS: does anybody know if airports can deal with ceramic knives? i'm a little worried that they would have no idea if i walked through the metal detector carrying one...
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#6. RE: [E36M3] OT: ceramics - from Graeme Weston-Lewis
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Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 15:41:36 -0600 From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] OT: ceramics Yup, very cool (get it, cool hahahha) technology. Unfortunately, the experience of the Porsche folks with PCCB (ceramic composite) brakes is not great. There is nothing actually wrong with them, the problem lies in that they do not appear to work any better or last much longer than regular brakes (at least under track conditions) and I have not heard anyone comment they even notice the weight savings. Couple this with the extortionate price ~10k for a brake job on a Porsche and upwards of ~25k for a brake job on a Ferarri Enzo and you end up with a product that may be just a little immature for the mass market. Graeme -----Original Message----- From: jason [mailto:jason@doomba.com] Sent: Wednesday, June 09, 2004 3:22 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] OT: ceramics Date: 09 Jun 2004 14:18:13 -0700 From: jason <jason@doomba.com> Subject: OT: ceramics i got my first ceramic kitchen knife yesterday and its quite fascinating. very light when you pick it up and the white blade looks weird. it is supposed to hold its edge really good and the guy who sharpened it said it turned red hot while he sharpened it, but didn't effect anything. got me curious about ceramics for brake rotors. seems the weight and heat characteristics would make them ideal. just curious what the collective opinion is... jason PS: does anybody know if airports can deal with ceramic knives? i'm a little worried that they would have no idea if i walked through the metal detector carrying one... ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#7. WTB: 15mm hubcentric spacers - from Jonathan Sargent
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Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 18:08:50 -0400 From: Jonathan Sargent <jonathan@rgbtvinc.com> Subject: WTB: 15mm hubcentric spacers Hey everyone, I'm trying to find some used spacers to fit my E36M3 so I can cram the new 993 TT Porsche BBK under my Fikse FM-5's. If anybody has any for sale, please contact me. Don't need lugs, going with wheel studs instead. Thanks, Jonathan
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#8. Need stock E36 M3 springs (San Jose, CA. area) - from michael smith
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Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 15:54:05 -0700 From: "michael smith" <mwsmith99@pacbell.net> Subject: Need stock E36 M3 springs (San Jose, CA. area) Looking for a fairly young set of E36 stock M3 springs. No luck in the local yards but will scour Ebay and other places as well. Thanks in advance. Reply directly to me at mwsmith99@pacbell.net _MWS
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#9. [E36M3] Need stock E36 M3 springs (San Jose, CA. area) - from michael smith
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Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 18:01:36 -0500 From: "michael smith" <mwsmith99@pacbell.net> Subject: [E36M3] Need stock E36 M3 springs (San Jose, CA. area) Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 15:54:05 -0700 From: "michael smith" <mwsmith99@pacbell.net> Subject: Need stock E36 M3 springs (San Jose, CA. area) Looking for a fairly young set of E36 stock M3 springs. No luck in the local yards but will scour Ebay and other places as well. Thanks in advance. Reply directly to me at mwsmith99@pacbell.net _MWS ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#10. VW Jetta for sale - from Brent Parks
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Date: Wed, 9 Jun 2004 22:06:11 -0400 From: Brent Parks <Bparks@fas.harvard.edu> Subject: VW Jetta for sale I know this is a M3 board, but if anyone you know is looking for a reliable 4 door daily driver, please let them know. It is on ebay with no reserve. The "family emergency" is that I really NEED another BMW as I not having one for almost 3 years is killing me. That is certainly an emergency. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ViewItem&item=2481784392&sspagename=ADME%3AB%3ALC%3AMT%3A1 Thanks, Brent Parks BMW less hopefully for not too much longer.