-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Short Shifter - from Brent Parks
Top
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 00:53:33 -0400 From: Brent Parks <Bparks@fas.harvard.edu> Subject: Short Shifter I have a quick question about them, but I do not want to start a big debate about what is best. In my last 95 M3 I just had a bent MZ3 shifter in there with no problems. I'm assuming this would work again without problem. Just wondering, but why does a $50 shifter wind up costing $350 from UUC and other places. I was happy with the original shift feel, albeit it was a bit notchy, but nothing I couldn't deal with. Thanks for your opinions, Brent Parks
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Re: [E36M3] M3 trailer tie-down technique? - from Mark Dadgar
Top
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 21:56:31 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] M3 trailer tie-down technique? On Jun 13, 2004, at 8:01 PM, John Phillips wrote: > I'm planning to trailer my '95 M3 to Homestead racecourse for a DE > June 20. I have towed other cars on my trailer before. They had > tubular frames and were easy to find good strap attachment points on, > to tie the car down to the trailer. Are there any commonly used > attachment points on the M3? Looks like I could go around the rear > uprights at the shock bolt, or maybe use the bracket under the > differential? I have no good ideas for the front yet. http://www.tunnellracing.com/thook.html You can get the T-hooks from Northern Tool, too (which is where Bimmerhaus sent me when they were out of stock). - Mark E36 325is JP/A5 #117, t-hooks for towing ----- mark@pdc-racing.net
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Re: [E36M3] Short Shifter - from Kent L. Shephard
Top
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 23:03:01 -0700 From: "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Short Shifter Hi, Simply, redesign and workmanship. Kent Brent Parks wrote: > Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 00:53:33 -0400 > From: Brent Parks <Bparks@fas.harvard.edu> > Subject: Short Shifter > > I have a quick question about them, but I do not want to start a big > debate about what is best. In my last 95 M3 I just had a bent MZ3 > shifter in there with no problems. I'm assuming this would work again > without problem. Just wondering, but why does a $50 shifter wind up > costing $350 from UUC and other places. I was happy with the original > shift feel, albeit it was a bit notchy, but nothing I couldn't deal with. > > Thanks for your opinions, > Brent Parks > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > -- "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public." 1918, Theodore Roosevelt
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. M3 tie downs - from Msebmwman@aol.com
Top
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 02:21:18 EDT From: Msebmwman@aol.com Subject: M3 tie downs John; You will probably get multiple answers to your question. Go here: http://www.bimmerhaus.com/tech/thook.html and click on complete instructions for the answer to your question. I have never done this but this shop and the information I believe to be correct as it is from Bob Tunnell, M3 driver extraordinaire.. Regards, Marc 95M3
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Re: Front Seatback Removal - from Martin Bullen
Top
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 06:04:14 -0400 From: Martin Bullen <vze322dw@verizon.net> Subject: Re: Front Seatback Removal Can't believe I quoted back an entire digest. Gulp......sorry folks, I must be more jet-lagged than I thought (24 hours back from China will do that to you, I guess). And the car is a 6/94 '95 M3 (not 6/04); not one of my best days yesterday, apparently. Martin Bullen '95 M3 '97 Z3 2.8 On Jun 13, 2004, at 11:11 PM, E36M3 wrote: > Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2004 19:15:16 -0400 > From: Martin Bullen <vze322dw@verizon.net> > Subject: Front Seatback Removal > > I need to remove the passenger-side front seatback (or, at least, the > cover) to get at the broken tilt-cable. > > Chris Connor's website, http://m3.digital7.com/vaderswap.php is very > useful, but I'm stalled at one of the first steps: I cannot find the 2 > torx screws he mentions as holding on the seatback; other postings in > the archive while inspirationally useful also don't locate these > screws. The only ones I can find are the two under the seat towards > the back, that hold on a plastic cover. > > Where are those two missing screws? > > The car is a 6/04 M3 with manual heated vaders. > > TIA. > > Martin Bullen > '95 M3 > '97 Z3 2.8
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. Re: Consensus is bmw synthetic oil is Castrol Syntec? - from bs
Top
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 08:20:19 -0400 From: "bs" <m3bs@comcast.net> Subject: Re: Consensus is bmw synthetic oil is Castrol Syntec? The fact that Castrol Syntec is NOT one of the approved oils ( for my 330, at least) leads me to believe that it is not the same stuff. It is a Castrol product, but I'm not convinced it is the same as the commercially available Syntec. With my BMWCCA discount, I can get the BMW stuff cheaper than Mobil 1 at Wal-Mart!
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Steering ratios continued... - from Chip Mitchell
Top
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 08:45:56 -0400 From: Chip Mitchell <chipm@uga.edu> Subject: Steering ratios continued... I did a little comparison between my OE steering rack (04/94 PD) and my AutoZone remanufactured rack (07/03 PD). Lock-to-Lock: OE 3 and a tiny fraction; Reman 3.5 This is consistent with observations here last week. But, more importantly in my opinion, Rack displacement at 90 deg: OE 7/16 in; Reman 7/16 in. Rack displacement at 360 deg: OE 28/16 in; Reman 28/16 in. This indicates to me that the racks are identical throughout the critical range. I didn't think until after I had installed the new rack to measure throughout the range and address the variable ratio issue, but in my mind this settles the OE vs Reman steering ratio question within the limits of my measuring abilities (which are admittedly weak).
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. heated seats - from Patrick Goss - PA
Top
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 10:28:20 -0400 From: Patrick Goss - PA <Patrick_Goss@GMACM.COM> Subject: heated seats I grabbed some basically free heated seat buttons off e_bay for my non seat heated 97 M3/4. Has anyone ever performed the retro-fit, or are there any helpful links/info? I've known people to buy aftermarket kits and pull the seat covers off to install some sorta heating element on other cars before with little trouble. I took a guess figuring that BMW had the plugs for these switches in the harness in the center console/dash already thinking its cheaper to engineer one universal harness, (I was wrong). Perhaps you have to get a separate run of harness from power source to switch, and then of course to seat. Ideas, tips, advice? I will accept throwing the switches out if it's too much trouble. Patrick
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. Re: [E36M3] Front Seatback Removal - from Jim Bassett
Top
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 09:48:25 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Front Seatback Removal At 04:21 PM 6/13/04, Martin Bullen wrote: >Chris Connor's website, http://m3.digital7.com/vaderswap.php is very >useful, but I'm stalled at one of the first steps: I cannot find the 2 >torx screws he mentions as holding on the seatback; other postings in the >archive while inspirationally useful also don't locate these screws. The >only ones I can find are the two under the seat towards the back, that >hold on a plastic cover. > >Where are those two missing screws? > >The car is a 6/04 M3 with manual heated vaders. Not sure if the Vader seats are different, but on my Sport seats there are only 2 torx screws. They are the ones that hold the back of the seat on (the plastic piece that faces the rear seat). Remove those two and the seat back lifts off. You can then peel back the leather cover and access the internals of the seat as needed. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett ---- Hardware Engineer for hire http://www.jimbassett.com/Resume1.htm
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. RE: Alternator damaged by charging? - from Michael, Dave
Top
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 12:58:13 -0400 From: "Michael, Dave" <Dave_Michael@Maxtor.com> Subject: RE: Alternator damaged by charging? An update: I replaced the alternator this weekend, and as one lister suggested, the battery problems were caused by the alternator and not the other way 'round; one of the brushes had worn a 1/8 deep groove in slip ring. The other ring was fine, but the groove in the worn ring was all the way through the copper. Very weird. The job itself was relatively straightforward. I bought the bmw tool to hold the fan hub while I loosened the 32 mm fan nut, but I think it was not really needed - the nut came loose pretty easily. The special tool requires that the fan hub be oriented just so, otherwise it doesn't go over the bolt heads that it "grips" . I did not remove the fan shroud and fan as Bentley suggests, but instead moved the fan farther "in" to the shroud, which gave me just enough room to maneuver the serpentine belt. The toughest part of the whole job was getting the belt back on - it tends to want to unwind itself all the time. Thanks ot all those who made suggestions, Dave 02 MCS 12k 98 m3/4 75k 90 200qa 200k > -----Original Message----- > From: Michael, Dave > Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 1:04 PM > To: 'E36M3' > Subject: Alternator damaged by charging? > > Hi Folks > > The 6 year old oem battery in my 98 m3/4 was a little weak > after the car sat for two weeks (ie, wouldn't start), so I > threw my charger on to see if the battery could be revived. I > also topped up the cells with distilled water. I did NOT > follow the Bentley in that I did NOT disconnect the battery > and instead just hooked the + cable to the jumper post and > the - to ground. > > So the battery charged up fine, but now the alt. light is on. > I checked the output from the B+ (the smaller termianl on the > alternator) and its putten' out nothing. > > So, how can I have fried the alternator with a 6 amp battery charger? > > Along t he same lines, to replace the thing, I know I need to > remove the clutch etc. But what size/shape is the wrench used > to unload the tensioner? In the Bentley, it looks like an > Allen wrench. > > As usual, TIA for any insights/suggestion! > > Dave > 98 m3/4 80k > 90 200QA 200K > 02 MCS 12k
-------------------- 11 --------------------
#11. E36 M3 splash shield - from Go, Jeffrey
Top
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 19:00:49 +0200 From: "Go, Jeffrey" <jeffrey.go@sap.com> Subject: E36 M3 splash shield Hi gruppe, was driving yesterday on hi-way, then all of a sudden, my splash shield, the large shield under the car, came loose. I heard and saw some bit and pieces of screws come off the car as I was driving. I had to park on the side, and then inspect the damage. it did come loose and I had to jack the car up to remove the shield. Question is: Does this happen often? about a month ago, I just had the car in at my local shop for major fluid changes (tranny, diff,power steering,brake, radiator flush), and Inspection 1. I am wondering if the shop had to remove the shield for any reason and did not attach it properly. I had the car for 8 years and never had this happen to me, and to top it off, the splash shield is only a year old... any ideas are appreciated and thanks in advance. -----Original Message----- From: Jim Bassett [mailto:jim@jimbassett.com] Sent: Monday, June 14, 2004 9:51 AM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Front Seatback Removal Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 09:48:25 -0700 From: Jim Bassett <jim@jimbassett.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Front Seatback Removal At 04:21 PM 6/13/04, Martin Bullen wrote: >Chris Connor's website, http://m3.digital7.com/vaderswap.php is very >useful, but I'm stalled at one of the first steps: I cannot find the 2 >torx screws he mentions as holding on the seatback; other postings in the >archive while inspirationally useful also don't locate these screws. The >only ones I can find are the two under the seat towards the back, that >hold on a plastic cover. > >Where are those two missing screws? > >The car is a 6/04 M3 with manual heated vaders. Not sure if the Vader seats are different, but on my Sport seats there are only 2 torx screws. They are the ones that hold the back of the seat on (the plastic piece that faces the rear seat). Remove those two and the seat back lifts off. You can then peel back the leather cover and access the internals of the seat as needed. Hope that helps, Jim Bassett ---- Hardware Engineer for hire http://www.jimbassett.com/Resume1.htm ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************