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#1. Re: [E36M3] E36 M3 splash shield - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 12:39:05 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36 M3 splash shield "Go, Jeffrey" <jeffrey.go@sap.com> wrote: > > was driving yesterday on hi-way, then all of a sudden, my splash > shield, the large shield under the car, came loose. I heard and > saw some bit and pieces of screws come off the car as I was driving. > > I had to park on the side, and then inspect the damage. it did come > loose and I had to jack the car up to remove the shield. > > Question is: Does this happen often? Yep. Welcome to the not-so-exclusive club, Jeffrey. > about a month ago, I just had the car in at my local shop for major > fluid changes (tranny, diff,power steering,brake, radiator flush), > and Inspection 1. I am wondering if the shop had to remove the shield > for any reason and did not attach it properly. Nope. > I had the car for 8 years and never had this happen to me, and to > top it off, the splash shield is only a year old... ??? If it has never happened to you, why is the splash shield younger than the rest of the car? Either way, you have two choices: buy another OE shield and thoroughly DIY reinforce all the plastic attachment areas -or- Get a JTD tray. Some have reported good results with reinforced OE parts. I've given up on the former and have installed two JTD trays on my E36s. IMHO, one major advantage of the JTD shield is that it completely replaces the pork chops. Being the lowest nose component, pork chops are the first to scrape over anything and stress the wheel well liner to which they are attached. The day I installed JTD under tray was the last time I had to replace the plastic wheel well liners as well. YMMV, alex f
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Short Shifter - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 13:00:13 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Short Shifter "Kent L. Shephard" <kents@kls-consulting.com> wrote: > > Hi, > > Simply, redesign and workmanship. Kent, What's wrong with BMW workmanship? Add me to the list of people happy with BMW shifter linkage and shifter knob design. Alas, 80K miles of wear have introduced noticeable sloppiness to the stock shifter movement. Does anyone have a list of replacements parts and tools needed to revitalize the stock shifter? I have no interest in installing an overpriced aftermarket shifter. Just want to resurrect the original shifter precision. TIA, alex f > Brent Parks wrote: > > From: Brent Parks <Bparks@fas.harvard.edu> > > > > I have a quick question about them, but I do not want to start a > > big debate about what is best. In my last 95 M3 I just had a bent > > MZ3 shifter in there with no problems. I'm assuming this would > > work again without problem. Just wondering, but why does a $50 > > shifter wind up costing $350 from UUC and other places. I was > > happy with the original shift feel, albeit it was a bit notchy, > > but nothing I couldn't deal with. > > > > Thanks for your opinions, > > Brent Parks
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#3. Re: Heated Seats - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 14:39:46 -0400 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: Re: Heated Seats Patrick, You can buy the heated seat pads from the dealer. I would not recommend getting used ones, as they tend to crack, short out, and burn. I replaced all four of my heated seat pads last fall. Get a set of hog ring pliers (available at a good hardware store) and a whole bunch of hog rings (you can get from the dealer or hardware store). Cut (use a very sturdy set of cutting pliers) all the rings and remove each cushion (lower and upper). Then reattach the rings with the new heated seat pad installed. You will also need to run some wiring to the seats back to the switches, and you may need to source the connector from BMW or get it from a recycler. Also you may need to tap it to the fuse box though I am not sure exactly what circuit it runs off of, though I can look it up if you are interested. But the install should not be too bad either way. Depends on how comfortable you are with wiring. The actual heated seat pads are time consuming but not overly difficult to deal with. To remove/dismantle/reassemble each seat figure on at least a couple of hours per seat. No your leather won't be as perfectly tight on the seat as it was before. -Justin -- '76 02 '97 m3 bmw cca checkout http://www.bmw2002.net
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#4. RE: Looking for '99 3 spoke airbag steering wheel - from Burgess, Kim L
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 11:52:18 -0700 From: "Burgess, Kim L" <kim.l.burgess@boeing.com> Subject: RE: Looking for '99 3 spoke airbag steering wheel -josh asked: "What's the deal with wiring one of these up into a '95 M3?" originally submitted to the "E36M3 List" by peterg Thanks Peter!!! These instructions may not apply to your situation. Use these instructions at your own risk. I in no way imply that this procedure is safe and I am not a professional. -- this is not a technical recommendation for litigation-happy shade-tree mechanics!....that said.... ----------------------------------------------------------------------- The parts you'll need are: Steering wheel: 32 34 2 228 230 $320.30 retail Air bag: 32 34 2 229 030 $622.50 retail Lock support: 32 31 1 162 088 $3.16 retail SRS Reel/horn ring/spindle -- part number to come -- approx. retail $120 (this item should already be attached to the wheel) A used wheel/airbag from an M Coupe or Roadster should work, but keep in mind that the spindle at the base of the wheel needs to be the one from he '99 M3. This is to mate properly to the airbag and to the horn wiring. You'll know the reel is correct because it will have two connectors of four wires on the back -- a blue/brown combo (the horn) and a harness for the airbag (plugs in where the old airbag wiring was). A really complex wiring harness at the base of the wheel means you have the wrong one. ;-) The Procedure: - Make sure your wheels are pointed straight ahead and your steering wheel is perfectly level. - Disconnect your positive battery terminal and let the car sit for 10 minutes to clear the electricity out of the system - Using a torx socket, carefully unscrew the two bolts holding the airbag. These bolts are in recesses on the back of the wheel. - Remove airbag, disconnecting the harness from the back. Carefully place the airbag face down away from your work area. - Unscrew the black plastic screw from the bottom and top of the steering column cover. Do not remove the screw completely -- leave a bit in and pull the screw out. This will remove the base that actually holds the cover on. - Pull the black plastic cover off of the steering column. It simply "clicks" into place, so you can just tug on it to pull it apart. - Using a 16mm socket, unbolt the steering wheel from the steering column. Disconnect the harness from the steering column. Pull the wheel off the column and put it aside. Here's where the real fun begins: - You will now see the lock support piece. On the '95, there are two items on the lock support piece that are not on the '99 -- a white probe that holds the spindle in place, and a copper contact that touches the horn ring on the '95 wheel. - Note the horn contact on the lock support. The wiring for this contact attaches to a harness on the steering column (a brown/red wire) and into a spring-loaded plastic case for the contact point. Clip the wire as close the plastic case as possible. You want to make use of the harness that connects to the column when you wire the horn on the new wheel. - Remove the turn signal and windshield wiper stalks from the lock support. Let them dangle. - Unbolt the lock support and remove it. - Install the new lock support. Reinstall the stalks. - Look at the base of the 3-spoke steering wheel. There is a white plastic harness with a brown and blue wire. Clip the white harness off. - Seal the end of the blue wire. It will not be used. - Attach a male or female connector to the brown wire. - Now you get to re-use the hold horn connector from the '95 wheel. It should already still be plugged in at the steering column. Attach a male or female connector (to connect to the brown wire on the wheel). - Plug the airbag harness in at the steering column (the wire colors don't sync up, but the harnesses will -- no worries). Connect the two horn wires. - Slide the wheel onto the column. Bolt it into place. - There should be three connectors (4 total wires) on the other side of the airbag. The blue wire screws into the wheel, the brown wire attaches to a metal tab on the airbag. The airbag connector is an obvious one. - Connect the wires in the airbag. Place the airbag in the wheel and bolt it into place with the torx socket. - Close up the black covers on the column and you are done! - Reconnect the battery. Put the ignition to the "on" position and check to make sure the airbag light goes out and that the horn works. If both are fine, the conversion is complete!
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#5. RE: [E36M3] E36 M3 splash shield - from Dave Arnold
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 15:11:15 -0400 From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] E36 M3 splash shield I just finished installing my JTD under tray yesterday, and it's really nice. But my question is about the "pork chops" what are is the function of these two parts? -----Original Message----- From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com [mailto:alex.fadeev@verizon.com] Sent: Monday, June 14, 2004 1:41 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36 M3 splash shield Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 12:39:05 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] E36 M3 splash shield "Go, Jeffrey" <jeffrey.go@sap.com> wrote: > > was driving yesterday on hi-way, then all of a sudden, my splash > shield, the large shield under the car, came loose. I heard and > saw some bit and pieces of screws come off the car as I was driving. > > I had to park on the side, and then inspect the damage. it did come > loose and I had to jack the car up to remove the shield. > > Question is: Does this happen often? Yep. Welcome to the not-so-exclusive club, Jeffrey. > about a month ago, I just had the car in at my local shop for major > fluid changes (tranny, diff,power steering,brake, radiator flush), > and Inspection 1. I am wondering if the shop had to remove the shield > for any reason and did not attach it properly. Nope. > I had the car for 8 years and never had this happen to me, and to > top it off, the splash shield is only a year old... ??? If it has never happened to you, why is the splash shield younger than the rest of the car? Either way, you have two choices: buy another OE shield and thoroughly DIY reinforce all the plastic attachment areas -or- Get a JTD tray. Some have reported good results with reinforced OE parts. I've given up on the former and have installed two JTD trays on my E36s. IMHO, one major advantage of the JTD shield is that it completely replaces the pork chops. Being the lowest nose component, pork chops are the first to scrape over anything and stress the wheel well liner to which they are attached. The day I installed JTD under tray was the last time I had to replace the plastic wheel well liners as well. YMMV, alex f ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#6. Where to find the VIN on an M3 engine? - from Juan Bruce
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 12:17:48 -0700 From: Juan Bruce <jbruce@gmail.com> Subject: Where to find the VIN on an M3 engine? I'm talking to a guy about buying a 3.2L motor he has sitting on a pallet that suposedly has 28k miles and I am trying to get the VIN from him. He can't seem to find it. Any ideas on how I might describe where to look? Juan Bruce BMW CCA GGC '95 M3 in need of a 3.2
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#7. RE: [E36M3] E36 M3 splash shield - from alex.fadeev@verizon.com
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 14:26:07 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] E36 M3 splash shield "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> wrote: > > I just finished installing my JTD under tray yesterday, and it's > really nice. But my question is about the "pork chops" what are > is the function of these two parts? With JTD under tray installed, the only job left for "pork chops" is to stick down. Where they become the first point of contact with debris/parking curbs and transmit that force directly to the plastic wheel well liners. Long story short, remove the suckers. alex f
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#8. Looking for '99 3 spoke airbag steering wheel - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 12:40:48 -0700 (PDT) From: Rich Dorffer <e36m3digest@ameritech.net> Subject: Looking for '99 3 spoke airbag steering wheel Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2004 08:54:14 -0700 (PDT) From: DocWyte Subject: Looking for '99 3 spoke airbag steering wheel Finally got a chance to check one of these out in a '95 M3 and it was pretty nice. Didn't block the gauge cluster like my momo and felt pretty good in my hands. After seeing two accidents happen right in front of me, it's time to get an airbag back in the car. I thought that is why you had bought the euro airbag steering wheel? I take it you didn't care for it and resold it and what the other style 3 spoke steering wheel? That's it, gotta have one. Anyone have one of these laying around they want to get rid of? Or where I could get one from, junkyard, etc? I assume I can also use the 3 spoke wheel that was in the coupes and roadsters? I have one that I will sell... What's the deal with wiring one of these up into a '95 M3? I thought I sent you complete instructions with pictures, etc. for wiring these steering wheels, told you what parts need to replaced, etc.?? Regards, Rich - clearly confused...
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#9. RE: [E36M3] E36 M3 splash shield - from Dave Arnold
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 15:41:03 -0400 From: "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] E36 M3 splash shield I guess I was not clear enough in my question, I was curious what the original function was of these parts. Yes, BTW, I did remove them. -----Original Message----- From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com [mailto:alex.fadeev@verizon.com] Sent: Monday, June 14, 2004 3:31 PM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: [E36M3] E36 M3 splash shield Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 14:26:07 -0500 From: alex.fadeev@verizon.com Subject: RE: [E36M3] E36 M3 splash shield "Dave Arnold" <air2daa@insightbb.com> wrote: > > I just finished installing my JTD under tray yesterday, and it's > really nice. But my question is about the "pork chops" what are > is the function of these two parts? With JTD under tray installed, the only job left for "pork chops" is to stick down. Where they become the first point of contact with debris/parking curbs and transmit that force directly to the plastic wheel well liners. Long story short, remove the suckers. alex f ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Front Seatback Removal - from Martin Bullen
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Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2004 18:08:55 -0400 From: Martin Bullen <vze322dw@verizon.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Front Seatback Removal Jim, The Vader seats must be different from the sport seats. I can't see any torx screws, or any plastic caps that might cover them. Do I need to peel back a portion of the leather to see them? Martin Bullen '95 M3 '97 Z3 2.8 On Jun 14, 2004, at 12:48 PM, Jim Bassett wrote: > At 04:21 PM 6/13/04, Martin Bullen wrote: >> Chris Connor's website, http://m3.digital7.com/vaderswap.php is very >> useful, but I'm stalled at one of the first steps: I cannot find the >> 2 torx screws he mentions as holding on the seatback; other postings >> in the archive while inspirationally useful also don't locate these >> screws. The only ones I can find are the two under the seat towards >> the back, that hold on a plastic cover. >> >> Where are those two missing screws? >> >> The car is a 6/04 M3 with manual heated vaders. > > Not sure if the Vader seats are different, but on my Sport seats there > are only 2 torx screws. They are the ones that hold the back of the > seat on (the plastic piece that faces the rear seat). Remove those two > and the seat back lifts off. You can then peel back the leather cover > and access the internals of the seat as needed. > > Hope that helps, > > Jim Bassett > ---- > Hardware Engineer for hire > http://www.jimbassett.com/Resume1.htm