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#1. Re: [E36M3] Help: Soft Brake Pedal - from Chris Turrisi
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Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2004 12:05:55 -0400 From: Chris Turrisi <cturrisi@worldnet.att.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Help: Soft Brake Pedal Scott, On my JP 1992 E36 325 I was/am having the same problem......the car has 103k miles on it. First I will give you a description of my problem and then what I have done to date... Car has a mushy/soft pedal when you first step on it, but if you pump it once (step on the pedal, let off and then step again) I get a great/hard/high pedal. The ABS works, and sometimes when I first step on the pedal it is hard. This is what I have done and the results.... Bleed the system using pressure bleeders/old push the pedal - changed nothing Changed fluid to Castrol SRF - Changed nothing Replaced the Hawk HT-10 pads with new - Changed nothing Rebuilt all calipers - changed nothing Replaced master cylinder - changed slightly, got a little harder, but did not fix the problem (all the symptoms lead to this as per 2 BMW master techs) Replaced the front wheel bearings, and installed new rotors - the problem got much, much better..... I was told by the director of motorsports for Performance Friction, and Sunny from UUC Motorwerks that I could be experiencing brake push back. This is when the wheel bearings and/or rotors are slightly out of round and as you drive the rotor pushes the caliper piston into the caliper. So the first pedal push, pushes the piston back out and the second pedal push produces brake pedal feel. Right now, I think that my suspension set-up and alignment settings are causing the remaining brake problems.....going to softer springs for this weekend at Watkins Glen and also bought some temperature sensitive paint to see what brake temps I am running, to see if I am running too cool or too hot for the pad compound. Will check back on Wed when I return..... Good luck, - Chris At 04:11 PM 6/17/2004 -0500, you wrote: >Date: Thu, 17 Jun 2004 16:10:38 -0500 >From: "Riley, Scott" <sriley@cardinalcapital.com> >Subject: Help: Soft Brake Pedal > >Does anyone know if the E36 M3 has a brake pedal adjustment nut/bolt setup >similar to the E30 M3s? I have been battling a soft brake pedal in my >I-Stock E36 M3 for quite some time. I've rebuilt the calipers, replaced >2-3 year old SS lines with new SS lines, professionally bled the entire >system, using Castrol SRF and still can't fix it. I am now considering >replacing the master cylinder and reservoir to see if that helps, but it >will cost over $500 in parts alone. > >Any advice is appreciated. > >TIA, >Scott > > >************************************************* >Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: > >Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com >Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com >Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com >Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > >DIGEST INFORMATION: >http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm >*************************************************
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#2. Re: Help Soft Brake Pedal - from JUSTIN GERRY
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Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2004 12:13:14 -0400 From: "JUSTIN GERRY" <JGERRY@butchers.com> Subject: Re: Help Soft Brake Pedal No adjustment that I know of. A friend of mine just went through the same situation. Rebuild calipers, new master cylinder, new lines etc.... everything except...his ABS pump. When he had the ABS pump replaced, the brakes are now nice and firm. I'd bet that its probably that. Go for a used one though, I think they are about $1200 from the dealer. -Justin
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#3. Re: 255 RA1s on '95s - from John Hovell
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Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2004 09:23:43 -0700 (PDT) From: John Hovell <jhovell@stanford.edu> Subject: Re: 255 RA1s on '95s As an additional data point, I have 255/40/17 RA1's on all 4 corners of my 4/94 build '95 M3, with stock 8.5 rims. H&R coilover suspension. I have ~2.0 degrees of negative camber in the rear, and some mild fender rolling, including removal of the inner fender liner. I have run this setup for a few years now and haven't noticed any rubbing; except in the last few months I noticed some of the undercoating worn off on the *inner* side of the wheel well on just one side. - John
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#4. Flipping Victoracers - from KResener@aol.com
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Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2004 12:36:57 EDT From: KResener@aol.com Subject: Flipping Victoracers I've got three DE's on my Victoracers, and they're getting a little worn. At the end of my last event someone in the paddock suggested flipping them on the rims to get more wear. Is this a good idea? I'm not sure but I thought there's a "this side out" warning stamped on the tire. Also, regarding Jake's post yesterday on the Cheapwheels.com deal on TSW wheels, will my 245 45 17 tires fit on the 17x8 wheels okay? I'm running 7.5 wheels now. That seems like too good of a deal to pass on... Thanks, Kurt
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Flipping Victoracers - from cteague@cox.net
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Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2004 13:19:38 -0400 From: <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Flipping Victoracers Victoracers work fine flipped, and it can help the wear. I used to do that. Now I just run 3 degrees of negative camber to even out the wear. ;-) Chris > Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2004 12:36:57 EDT > From: KResener@aol.com > Subject: Flipping Victoracers > > I've got three DE's on my Victoracers, and they're getting a little worn. At > the end of my last event someone in the paddock suggested flipping them on > the rims to get more wear. > Is this a good idea? I'm not sure but I thought there's a "this side out" > warning stamped on the tire. > Also, regarding Jake's post yesterday on the Cheapwheels.com deal on TSW > wheels, will my 245 45 17 tires fit on the 17x8 wheels okay? I'm running 7.5 > wheels now. That seems like too good of a deal to pass on... > Thanks, > > Kurt
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#6. Re:Looking for a Kart track in San Diego area - from jmihal
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Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2004 10:57:18 -0700 From: "jmihal" <jmihal@jt-designs.com> Subject: Re:Looking for a Kart track in San Diego area Amago Raceway on Palomar Mountain. Track details: .6miles, 12 turns, 32-33 seconds per lap, 63 gear changes per lap. Check it out here: http://www.go-karting.com/ After driving here you will think that your M3 is a stock car! Best, Jim Mihal www.bmwoffroad.com www.jt-designs.com > At 10:21 AM 6/18/2004 -0500, Carey Probst wrote: > >Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2004 11:18:33 -0400 > >From: "Carey Probst" <hcprobst@alum.mit.edu> > >Subject: Looking for a Kart track in San Diego area > > > >I'm looking for a kart facility in the San Diego area than could handle up > >to 80 people for a company sponsored event. > > > >We are having our unit review there next quarter and would like to do that > >as a group activity. > > > >As usual, thanks in advance. > > > >Carey > > > > > > > >Carey Probst, '99 M3/2, '86 325e w/i cam > >BMW CCA Patroon and Genesee Valley Chapters > >JC CAIed and Sharked, Stressed, Schrothed, Gauged, Hitched, X-Braced > >
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#7. Re: [E36M3] Re: 255 RA1s on '95s - from Rex Tener
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Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2004 11:07:03 -0700 From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Re: 255 RA1s on '95s At 11:31 AM 6/18/2004 -0500, John Hovell wrote: >As an additional data point, I have 255/40/17 RA1's on all 4 corners of my >4/94 build '95 M3, with stock 8.5 rims. H&R coilover suspension. Has anyone else noticed that '95 M3's have more clearance between the tire and strut than the 96+ cars? My guess is the offset lollipop bushing on the 95's pushes the tire/wheel away from the strut. >I have run this setup for a few years now and haven't noticed any rubbing; >except in the last few months I noticed some of the undercoating worn off >on the *inner* side of the wheel well on just one side. My experience with my '96 M3, 17x9 45mm offset SSR Comps, and Hoosier 245/40-17 tires, is when you start to rub the inner side of the rear wheel well with big tires, your rear trailing arm bushings needed to be replaced. I changed mine with Chester's RTB rental tools and added the Ground Crontrol RTB shims and experienced no more rubbing. -- Rex Tener rex_tener@yahoo.com
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#8. FS: Momo Daytona 3 steering wheel and hub - from DocWyte
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Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2004 13:02:08 -0700 (PDT) From: DocWyte <josh_wyte@yahoo.com> Subject: FS: Momo Daytona 3 steering wheel and hub Well, I found an airbag steering wheel from a '99 M3 and it's own its way. So, my current setup is for sale. It's in like new condition, 3 spoke Momo steering wheel with no exposed metal spokes. They're covered by a very nice sculpted pad that's an anthracite color. This wheel is no longer made by Momo, it's 360mm in diameter, so 20mm smaller than the '95-'98 stock wheels and 10mm smaller than the 3 spoke '99 wheel. It has a nice beefy rim and the bump outs for hand positioning at 3 and 9 o'clock. I can provide instructions for installation as well as wiring past the SRS brain so you don't get an airbag light and your passenger bag will still work. I'm looking to get $200 for the wheel and hub. The wheel cost more than that alone! -josh ===== __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail is new and improved - Check it out! http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
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#9. Re: Help: Soft Brake Pedal - from Neil Maller
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Date: Fri, 18 Jun 2004 17:20:20 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Help: Soft Brake Pedal on 6/18/04 11:01 AM, "Riley, Scott" <sriley@cardinalcapital.com> wrote: > Does anyone know if the E36 M3 has a brake pedal adjustment nut/bolt setup > similar to the E30 M3s? It does not. > I have been battling a soft brake pedal in my I-Stock E36 M3 for quite some > time. I've rebuilt the calipers, replaced 2-3 year old SS lines with new SS > lines, professionally bled the entire system, using Castrol SRF and still > can't fix it. I am now considering replacing the master cylinder and > reservoir to see if that helps, but it will cost over $500 in parts alone. That seems to be your remaining option. Note that the going price for an E36 M3 master cylinder is about $325. There's normally no need to replace the reservoir, which is a friction fit in the two sealing rings on top of the M/C, and pulls straight up and off. There's also no need to remove the hoses from the reservoir. If you're careful you can pull it off and tuck it aside while the M/C is replaced. Be prepared to have the paint stripping qualities of brake fluid fully confirmed. This is a messy job, although not a difficult one. Neil 96 M3
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#10. Re: [E36M3] Euro S-50 - from Boen168@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2004 13:55:26 EDT From: Boen168@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Euro S-50 Gruppe, Anybody on this list have done a Euro S-50 OBD-1 conversion before? Just needs to know what extra parts are needed to do the job besides the engine, wiring harness and DME. From looking at pictures, seemed like the radiator, radiator overflow bottle and top plastic shroud are different from the US. As a matter of fact, the radiator overflow bottle is located in the back of the engine, similar in position to the E30M3s. Any input sincerely appreciated. Thanks much in advance. Regards, David '88 M3 '95 M3
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#11. Re: [E36M3] BMW Factory parts retail prices and lookup - from jason
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Date: 21 Jun 2004 11:01:43 -0700 From: jason <jason@doomba.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] BMW Factory parts retail prices and lookup On Wed, 2004-03-24 at 21:10, Rex Tener wrote: > Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2004 21:05:20 -0800 > From: Rex Tener <rex_tener@yahoo.com> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] BMW Factory parts retail prices and lookup > > If you know the part numbers, you can type them into this web page and it > will give you the retail price. > > <http://www.circlebmw.com/parts/price.htm> > > -- > Rex Tener > rex_tener@yahoo.com > hi folks. just visited this url and couldn't find where to look up prices. did they move it? thanks for any pointers jason