-------------------- 1 --------------------
#1. Re: [E36M3] Brake Fluid comparison chart - from Andrew Kalman
Top
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2004 18:29:58 -0700 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Fluid comparison chart Re: >For those of you data mongers out there, I saw this posted on the Shelby >Club mailing list and thought that some of you would like this data. I >basically shows why I used to run Motul600 in the Mustang at $10/pint which >is cheap compared to Castrol SRF at $70/pint. >http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/Brake%20Fluid%20Comparison.htm That Valvoline stuff is great, dirt cheap, and readily available. I usually fill with ATE, but use the Valvoline when in a pinch. -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
-------------------- 2 --------------------
#2. Re: Fuse Box Question - RE: AC problems - from Neil Maller
Top
Date: Thu, 05 Aug 2004 20:54:04 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Fuse Box Question - RE: AC problems on 8/5/04 8:31 PM, "Robert S. Hatrak II" <rob@hatrak.com> wrote: > Can someone please take a look at your fusebox and tell me the orientation > of your relays for your fan speed and AC Compressor? The fan speed relays > are yellow one and the compressor relay is purple. Is the purple in the > middle, or on the left? If anyone is able to reply, please also let me know > the year or your car. Rob, Some of the relays are in different positions depending on model year, so be VERY careful. Don't ask me how I know this, but it did involve replacing a fried engine wiring harness. The different colour relays not only have different ratings, but different terminal layout. The relay info in Bentley is no reliable. The way to be absolutely sure is to check the wire colours under the fuse/relay box, or to check another car of the same model year. Neil 96 M3
-------------------- 3 --------------------
#3. Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) - from Mo Karamat
Top
Date: Thu, 05 Aug 2004 22:46:53 -0400 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) Jason, The cut N Gut is not that big of a deal. I remember when we did mine, Wayne picked up this really cool pipe cutter, and make the cutting of the front strut housings VERY easy, and clean. After that it is just a matter of drilling in the center of the other side, and slipping in the insert. I highly recommend the Koni's. The adjustment is a nice feature as well. If you do this, I would also suggest the externally adjustable rears. As far as springs, I have the Eibach Pro kit, which does lower the car.. I believe that you can stay with the stock springs when using the Koni's. I have heard that the Blisteins have quite a harsher ride than the Koni's in our cars. The strut hat swap will give you more negative camber, but will also eat the insides of your front tires a LOT more... So it is a trade off.. (That is why I am looking into camber plates..) I am sure a bunch of the other guys will have opinions as well.. Hope this helps Mo 98 M3/4 91 325IX 82 323i (Perhaps will have a completed engine next weekend!) -------------------- 6 -------------------- Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2004 17:48:01 -0700 (PDT) From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> Subject: Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) So I searched the archives on Konis vs. Bilsteins, and after a couple of hundred posts I'm not much better off than I was before. Maybe I should have read them as they came out over the last couple of years. Anyhow, on to the question.... After 45000 miles or so my '97 feels like it could get some new shocks and struts. I'd like to be able to buy the shocks and struts and not have to tear them apart as I've read is required with Konis (I think). I'd like to retain stock ride hieght, and have a slightly firmer ride. Of course I suppose I could just go with OE Boge units and be done with it. However, I do track the car about 3 to 5 times a year and would like the added performace of aftermarket. In fact the reason for finally doing suspension work is the Sept 11 NASA event at Infineon. The wife's American Iron Camaro lost the engine, so we get a chance to relive the good old days of taking the car to the track without the truck, trailer, gas jugs, mountain of spares, etc.... Suggestions on shocks and struts that will provide a slightly firmer ride, keep stick height, and not require pre-install, are much appreciated. Also, should I swap the strut hats while I have it all apart? Thanks! Jason
-------------------- 4 --------------------
#4. RE: [E36M3] Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) - from Dave DeBuhr
Top
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2004 20:20:17 -0700 From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) He wants to maintain stock ride height. At their highest settings, the GC kit will have you 1" lower. I just installed the GC track school kit about a month ago and am thrilled with the quality and performance. IF you want to keep stock ride height, I would probably keep the stock springs and get some adjustable Konis. The mods to your strut housing to fit the Konis are not that hard (or expensive if you have someone do it). -----Original Message----- From: Chris Teague [mailto:cteague@cox.net] Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2004 6:21 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2004 18:14:21 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) Jason, Ground-Control track/school kit comes with Koni SA's, and complete housings, so it's a pure bolt on. Bimmerworld sells this setup. Or if you go with the Koni DA's from TC Kline or Bimmerhaus, those are complete struts. There is no insert. That's what I have. In either case, spring rates are selectable. Of course, you didn't actually say you wanted springs, but hey, it's all apart anyway, and you did want better handling. I have also ran the Koni SA inserts in the stock housing, and I think it took about 1 hour per strut to cut the top off with a hacksaw and drill the hole in the bottom. Really no big deal. Chris ----- Original Message ----- > Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2004 17:48:01 -0700 (PDT) > From: Jason Knight <knight2244@yahoo.com> > Subject: Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) > > So I searched the archives on Konis vs. Bilsteins, and > after a couple of hundred posts I'm not much better > off than I was before. Maybe I should have read them > as they came out over the last couple of years. > Anyhow, on to the question.... > > After 45000 miles or so my '97 feels like it could get > some new shocks and struts. I'd like to be able to > buy the shocks and struts and not have to tear them > apart as I've read is required with Konis (I think). > I'd like to retain stock ride hieght, and have a > slightly firmer ride. Of course I suppose I could > just go with OE Boge units and be done with it. > However, I do track the car about 3 to 5 times a year > and would like the added performace of aftermarket. > > In fact the reason for finally doing suspension work > is the Sept 11 NASA event at Infineon. The wife's > American Iron Camaro lost the engine, so we get a > chance to relive the good old days of taking the car > to the track without the truck, trailer, gas jugs, > mountain of spares, etc.... > > Suggestions on shocks and struts that will provide a > slightly firmer ride, keep stick height, and not > require pre-install, are much appreciated. Also, > should I swap the strut hats while I have it all > apart? > > Thanks! > > Jason ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
-------------------- 5 --------------------
#5. Re: [E36M3] Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) - from Chris Teague
Top
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2004 21:10:41 -0700 From: "Chris Teague" <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) It sure seems like taller springs would fix that problem. I went from 7" to 6" springs when I wanted to get the car lower. Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> To: "E36M3" <e36m3@bmw-m.net> Sent: Thursday, August 05, 2004 8:21 PM Subject: RE: [E36M3] Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) > Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2004 20:20:17 -0700 > From: "Dave DeBuhr" <debuhr@comcast.net> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) > > He wants to maintain stock ride height. At their highest settings, > the GC kit will have you 1" lower. > > I just installed the GC track school kit about a month ago and am thrilled > with the quality and performance. > > IF you want to keep stock ride height, I would probably keep the stock > springs > and get some adjustable Konis. The mods to your strut housing to fit the > Konis > are not that hard (or expensive if you have someone do it).
-------------------- 6 --------------------
#6. ipod in the M3 - from Lew Becker
Top
Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2004 22:37:40 -0700 From: "Lew Becker" <lmb_cfls@sbcglobal.net> Subject: ipod in the M3 Check out the IceLink at www.dension.com. Works just like the new ipod-E46 interface, as near as I can tell except: (a) the IceLink uses both firewire on the bottom of the ipod to charge it and headphone/remote jacks on top for sound and control (through headunit) and (b) it replaces the cd changer (the IceLink connects to the head unit through the pre-wired cd changer plug in trunk ). I have one IceLink in my 97 M3 and another in my Audi allroad (hi Marc), and swap my ipod between them (in both cars, I've located the ipod in the glovebox). BUT on both IceLinks, the headphone/remote connector was loose after a month or so -- on the Audi, I was able to superglue the plug back together; on the M3, there's a loose connector that I have to track down (and re-connect, re-solder, or both). Lew Becker -----Original Message----- -------------------- 6 -------------------- Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2004 21:14:43 EDT From: Shelhart2@aol.com Subject: ipod in the M3 I bought a new Ipod last week. What a great little device (no affiliation). It holds up to 10k songs and hooks right into my Bose Lifestyle unit. The software interface is great as well. It appears that BMW and Mac have a kit for models 2002 and newer. Anyone fitted this in their vehicle yet that has found the most efficient and clean way? I know I can send the stereo output on the Ipod to a y connector and put it into the stereo input if any exist on the head unit. I al;so know I can get a radio frequency adapter. Question is has anyone done it already or am I in virgin territory? Shel Hart 98 M3 02 996
-------------------- 7 --------------------
#7. Re: [E36M3] ipod in the M3 - from Jay W. Hudson
Top
Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 05:56:45 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] ipod in the M3 Posted by andy r. > > third - Alpine has a "iPod-ready" interface box that lets you control the > iPod through the deck like a CD changer. aren't some of the stock decks > made by alpine, and use its "AI-net" connectivity? Anyone know about this? > http://www.alpine-usa.com/products/leading_technology/leading_tech_kca-420i.htm > > andy r. > 98 m3/2 > The Alpine interface is supposed to be available in Sept. Although many factory BMW decks are made by Alpine, they are not Ai-net. They use a version of the M-bus that is different from the aftermarket M-bus decks. That's why you can't use an aftermarket Alpine CD changer with the factory deck or visa-versa. Unless you use some sort of adapter. Now, I know some of you engineer types are turning the wheels now. AFAIK, even if you had an adapter for the factory deck, you can't change an M-bus deck into an Ai-net deck. The Ai-net bus has 2-way communication. The deck has to be able to support this. Happy tunes - Jay
-------------------- 8 --------------------
#8. Re: [E36M3] Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) - from Jay W. Hudson
Top
Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 06:20:31 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) > > So I searched the archives on Konis vs. Bilsteins, and > after a couple of hundred posts I'm not much better > off than I was before. Maybe I should have read them > as they came out over the last couple of years. > Anyhow, on to the question.... > > After 45000 miles or so my '97 feels like it could get > some new shocks and struts. I'd like to be able to > buy the shocks and struts and not have to tear them > apart as I've read is required with Konis (I think). > I'd like to retain stock ride hieght, and have a > slightly firmer ride. Of course I suppose I could > just go with OE Boge units and be done with it. > However, I do track the car about 3 to 5 times a year > and would like the added performace of aftermarket. > > In fact the reason for finally doing suspension work > is the Sept 11 NASA event at Infineon. The wife's > American Iron Camaro lost the engine, so we get a > chance to relive the good old days of taking the car > to the track without the truck, trailer, gas jugs, > mountain of spares, etc.... > > Suggestions on shocks and struts that will provide a > slightly firmer ride, keep stick height, and not > require pre-install, are much appreciated. Also, > should I swap the strut hats while I have it all > apart? > > Thanks! > > Jason I prefer the Konis. The adjustability is great for having a street setup and also being able to change them for track days. As has been said, the cut-n-gut process isn't that difficult. You can use the H&R OE Sports to maintain a near stock ride height and still get improved handling with slightly higher spring rates. I bought my old Koni/H&R OE Sport setup from TC Kline Racing. I think it's called the Streetline package. I was very happy with this setup. I recently upgraded to a GC track suspension. I have no personal experience. But, I've read of many who've said the Bilsteins are very harsh. AFAIK, they have no adjustability. Jay
-------------------- 9 --------------------
#9. RE: [E36M3] Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) - from Robert Chay
Top
Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 09:54:30 -0400 From: "Robert Chay" <lists@rchay.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) Bilsteins were valved for stock to moderate springs. They work very well with the stock springs. The harshness in the ride that some people talk about was from the bumpstops which I've heard have been either shortened or removed. I have Eibach Pro-Kit and Bilsteins installed on my 98 m3 for about 3 or 4 yrs and ~60k miles now. I don't think you can really go wrong with either Bilsteins or Konis. -Bobby > -----Original Message----- > From: Jay W. Hudson > <snip> > > I have no personal experience. But, I've read of many who've said the > Bilsteins are very harsh. AFAIK, they have no adjustability. > > Jay > >
-------------------- 10 --------------------
#10. Stomp code 1281 - from Steve Klein
Top
Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 09:32:16 -0500 From: Steve Klein <klein@robinsonad.com> Subject: Stomp code 1281 Jamie- I just got the same code myself on my '95 after removing, cleaning and reconnecting all the connections I could find in the engine bay, including the big bar that connects to the DME. I think it simply records a power supply interrupt, since I was codeless before I cleaned the contacts and checked codes right after I cleaned. Alas, my car ran fine after re-connecting everything, but I'm stock in that respect, so all I can do is hope to eliminate that as a source of your problems. When you swapped DME's (and moved the chip across, right?) did the trouble persist? Steve