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#1. Brake Fluid comparison chart - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 08:45:23 -0700 (PDT) From: Rich Dorffer <e36m3digest@ameritech.net> Subject: Brake Fluid comparison chart > >For those of you data mongers out there, I saw this posted > on the Shelby > >Club mailing list and thought that some of you would like > this data. I > >basically shows why I used to run Motul600 in the Mustang at > $10/pint which > >is cheap compared to Castrol SRF at $70/pint. > >http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/Brake%20Fluid%20Comparison.htm > > That Valvoline stuff is great, dirt cheap, and readily available. I > usually fill with ATE, but use the Valvoline when in a pinch. I couldn't agree with Andrew more. When I first found the Valvoline Synthetic brake fluid a little over a year ago, I started using it in all my street cars as it was great bang-for-the-buck brake fluid. I even used it recently in a friend's E36M3 to prepare it for his first few track schools. I highly recommend it for the price. Regards, Rich
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#2. Re: [E36M3] Brake Fluid comparison chart - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 08:55:40 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Fluid comparison chart On Aug 5, 2004, at 6:11 PM, Mel Silva wrote: > For those of you data mongers out there, I saw this posted on the > Shelby > Club mailing list and thought that some of you would like this data. I > basically shows why I used to run Motul600 in the Mustang at $10/pint > which > is cheap compared to Castrol SRF at $70/pint. > http://www.swedishbricks.net/700900FAQ/Brake%20Fluid%20Comparison.htm This explains why I've switched from ATE Typ200/Blue to Motul 600 in the race car. - Mark E36 325is JP/A5 #117 ----- mark@pdc-racing.net
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#3. Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) - from Rich Dorffer
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Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 09:09:47 -0700 (PDT) From: Rich Dorffer <e36m3digest@ameritech.net> Subject: Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) > The cut N Gut is not that big of a deal. I remember > when we did mine, > Wayne picked up this really cool pipe cutter, and make the > cutting of the > front strut housings VERY easy, and clean. After that it is > just a matter > of drilling in the center of the other side, and slipping in > the insert. Anyone interested in a set of 97 E36 M3 struts (housings and worn out inserts), let me know, I have a set and will sell for cheap. They are in good shape. > It sure seems like taller springs would fix that problem. > I went from 7" to 6" springs when I wanted to get the > car lower. Not really, you can't just add taller springs since the length of the rod will determine maximum height at a certain point. > I have no personal experience. But, I've read of many who've said the > Bilsteins are very harsh. AFAIK, they have no adjustability. They aren't harsh, they suffered from a bumpstop issue as the struts they *used* to provide for the E36 M3 application had a longer bumpstop which was an issue on the E36 M3s since they had a lower ride height than standard E36s. The old correction was to go into the strut and cut down the bump stop and this was an effective fix. The damping and rebound of the Bilsteins is terrific and there is zero need for adjustability as the damping and rebound rates are well suited to stock springs. Now, Bilstein has corrected the problem and the struts they are providing for E36 M3s have the proper travel and bumpstop height so there is no need for correcting it. I installed a set on a 1997 E36 M3 recently and they work marvelously with the stock springs for both street and light track duty. As far as Koni versus Bilstein. I believe that the updated Bilsteins are a better shock/strut combined with the stock springs than the Koni SAs. The adjustability of the Koni SAs is a bit overrated as adjusting rebound isn't nearly as important as being able to adjust compression. Once you get the rebound setting correct for the springs you are using, you really shouldn't need to adjust it and it is sort of a crutch to use this adjustment feature to change between the track and the street although it does provide some usefulness. The Bilsteins though are valved for rebound and compression properly for stock or slightly more stiff springs than stock. Furthermore, the monotube design of the Bilsteins is more roboust than the Konis. The Bilsteins will last for a very long time and they are less expensive than the Konis IIRC. Konis are fine, I simply think the Bilsteins are better in multiple regards. Regards, Rich 95 M3 - TC Kline Koni DAs 91 318is - stock Boge Turbo Gas 90 325is - Bilstein Sport
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#4. Re: [E36M3] Motorsport plaque - from Chris Salter
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Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 09:21:54 -0700 (PDT) From: Chris Salter <errsomeone@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Motorsport plaque 51-14-2-263-583 atleast that is what my ETK has. This is the one on the M3 GT -Chris Salter --- "Suneal N." <suneal@suneal.net> wrote: > Date: Thu, 5 Aug 2004 21:14:31 -0400 > From: "Suneal N." <suneal@suneal.net> > Subject: Re: [E36M3] Motorsport plaque > > I can't help you with the part number, but I can > show you a guy who sells > 'em: > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7914002574&category=33731 > $30 bones each. > > Suneal Nandigam > > > > ************************************************* > Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our > sponsors: > > Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com > Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com > Eurosport High Performance > http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com > Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com > > DIGEST INFORMATION: > http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm > ************************************************* > > > __________________________________ Do you Yahoo!? Yahoo! Mail - You care about security. So do we. http://promotions.yahoo.com/new_mail
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#5. RE: [E36M3] Stomp code 1281 - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 11:50:53 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <jhowton@fotofab.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Stomp code 1281 It seems like it trips that code every time the idle stumbles. Brett Anderson has suggested that I likely have a loose power or ground connection somewhere, so I am going to start checking for that. I did change out the voltage regulator while I had the intake off, so maybe I forgot to tighten down the power cable on the alternator or something. The trouble did persist with both DMEs, although I used the same chip in both. Thanks for the feedback. Jamie Howton
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#6. Re: [E36M3] Brake Fluid comparison chart - from Andrew Kalman
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Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 09:43:09 -0700 From: Andrew Kalman <aek@pumpkininc.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Fluid comparison chart Mark Dadgar wrote: >This explains why I've switched from ATE Typ200/Blue to Motul 600 in >the race car. Quit using your brakes! :-) -- ______________________________________ Andrew E. Kalman, Ph.D. aek@pumpkininc.com
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#7. Suspension component questions - from Chester Wong
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Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 10:07:30 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Suspension component questions Hi all. I'm at a cross roads of sorts. I have the Elise coming in a few weeks and sure, that would make a great track car, but... a) some chapters don't allow it since they consider it an open top and b) it's a freakin' brand new car!!! Now, my POS M3 will break 90k miles by next week so I have no issues with tracking it. Here's my dilemna. I currently have Eibach sways, Koni SA replacement struts/shocks and stock springs. My car is the SUV of the group since it sits sooo high, but I manage to coax it around the track at a good speed. The only problem is I'm really killing the shoulders of my track tires and probably am not utilizing the full potential of the tire since I'm riding on the shoulder. I once had the Ground Control coilover retrofit kit installed. While the handling was great, the overall execution left a bit to be desired. Springs popping out on the back when you jacked the car and the front springs jangling around as well when you lifted the front. Because the kit used 2.5" springs (I think), the amount you can compress the Eibach Race Springs really restricted your travel for non-astronomically high spring rates. I bottomed out the rear springs and went airborn at one point....not fun. Of course, when you bottom a spring, you weaken it so the rate went to hell. Anyway, I want to stiffen the spring rates but you're fairly limited in springs rates if you stay with stock sized springs. I believe the choices out there are H&R OE Sport, H&R Sport, H&R Race, Eibach Pro kit. I'm not a huge fan of progressive rate springs, so that kicks the H&Rs to the curb. The Eibach fronts only add something like 30#/inch of additional stiffness and the back a little bit more as well. So...enter the world of coilovers...EEEKK!!! I'll break out my thoughts about the different type of kits out there: H&R coilover kit: A company with a good reputation and I believe I installed this kit on someone's E36m3 a long time ago. Someone recently bought the kit and the front springs are the same diameter at the top and bottom (2.5" size) and bulges in the middle. A bulge in the spring is good since it allows for my compression before binding the coil. My only gripe is the shocks are not adjustable so you're kinda stuck with those spring rates. Bilstein PSS-9: Apparently very good on the E46M3 cars; however, no kits for E36M3 that has the swaybar tab, etc. This pretty much rules it out. Ground Control: I only have experience with the conversion kit. They offer a Koni SA shortened kit for $1700. Does anyone have this kit? Do springs flop around when you lift the car? The one thing I love about their setups are the ride height adjusters. I think this design is awesome. I don't like using two collars to jam against each other or a set screw that goes through the collar to gouge into the soft aluminum shaft. TC Kline: They have a Koni double adjustable setup (they also have a single adjustable kit). I believe these struts and shocks come from the factory that way, right? They have springs made by Vogtland that supposedly have thinner coils to prevent coilbinding. My ideal setup: - Koni DA coilover fronts with GC height adjusters - Koni DA rears with GC height adjusters - Front springs: - Track use: Either ERS or Vogtland front springs in a high rate - Street use: Something like the spring from the PSS-9 setup where it gets fat at the top to provide a nice cushy rate and avoid the associated risks of coilbinding with narrow diameter springs - Rear springs: - Track use: Probably go with the TCKline ones since they are pigtail shaped which would avoid coilbinding issues. They also come in a minimum 400# rate and many other rates above that. Am I on crack? Is this possible? Also, about camber plates, what are the GC hybrid ones that every one talks about? I'm not a fan of the TCKline plates. All the aluminum hardware is too soft and wears out. The spherical bearing also wears much too quickly. I would try to keep the stock type bearing hats...maybe the '96+ ones swapped left to right for street and when I plan on hitting the track, throw some shims on the lower two bolts. Ideas? Inputs? Thanks, Chester =====
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#8. Re: [E36M3] Brake Fluid comparison chart - from Mark Dadgar
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Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 10:21:12 -0700 From: Mark Dadgar <mark@pdc-racing.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] Brake Fluid comparison chart On Aug 6, 2004, at 9:43 AM, Andrew Kalman wrote: > Mark Dadgar wrote: >> This explains why I've switched from ATE Typ200/Blue to Motul 600 in >> the race car. > > Quit using your brakes! :-) I'm trying. When you scrub off too much speed, that little M50 takes FOREVER to haul the car back up to Warp 9 (or Warp 4 or whatever it'll manage). - Mark
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#9. My recent experience with Global Imports BMW in Atlanta - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 13:43:04 -0400 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: My recent experience with Global Imports BMW in Atlanta Folks, I am sharing my most recent service experience with Global Imports BMW. In mid June, I had a fender bender (driver rear). The wiring behind the amplifier was shorted (due to impact) and the surge damaged my CD player and the front 2 midrange speakers. After I got my car back from the body shop, I dropped it off at Global Imports folks. I got my car back after 5 days in the garage. The CD player was replaced and the labor to replace the CD and checking the wiring was $900. My insurance picked up the tab. As soon as I got the car (it was a Friday), the speakers sounded 'horrible' and the front under panel below the steering wheel was almost falling apart. On top of that, my airbag light was on. The following week I dropped the car back to the dealer. They replaced the right front speaker, reinstalled the under panel and reset the SRS light (which they admitted was their fault since the technician forgot to reset it prior to delivery). I went to pick up the car, and only the front right front speaker was not replaced. I was infuriated. The service advisor (Steve Andrews) had asked me to be there at 6PM and I was there 10 minutes before six to realize he was 'gone for the day' and I was now being helped by another advisor. This service advisor too agreed that the left front speaker was blown and that they will take care of it. The next morning I received a phone call from Steve informing me that I will be charged for the rental for one day since I did not show up to pick up my car. Funny when I told him about the night before when I "was" there, he apologized. I went to pick up the car and the speaker was STILL not replaced and I was told that it was working perfectly fine and that my CDs were not designed to be played on this BMW system hence the distorted sound. HUH?? At that point, I had lost it. I asked the service advisor to get his test CD and prove it to me that the speaker was not blown. After testing the CD he was convinced (not to mention embarrassed) and decided to change the speaker. Another half day of mine wasted. I paid the invoice on the spot which was also faxed to my insurance company. Now the interesting part. Global Imports BMW had charged me $115.88 to reset the SRS light (I overlooked the invoice before picking up the car). I went back to the dealership. The incompetent service advisor called up my insurance and his explanation was "we apologize but someone had entered the system and put the speaker labor in the wrong column". Insurance company refused the payment and now I am short paid with no fault of mine. I will call up my credit card company and dispute the payment. Apparently they are taking care of this (whatever that means). Overall my experience with Global Imports BMW has been 'terrible' (TOTAL five visits on a simple case). And oh yeah, the no longer offer 15% CCA discount. Its narrowed down to 10% "take it or leave it". Hope none of you have to deal with such mediocre service. A.L. Here is the response I received from another local club member: Ahmad, If we are talking about poor Global experiences I will share as well. I won't go into details about the poor salesmen experience that we received when my father was looking at 7's a few years back (2000'ish). A few years ago I decided I would never go there again. I was in buying some parts and waiting for the parts guys to come back with my items. I started talking to this guy who had waited for 25 minutes on some control arms and other parts. He commented to me about how expensive Global was and he just felt so abused. I mentioned a couple mail order places for him to check for parts in the future and he was grateful. The parts guy came back and overheard our conversation. I got my parts and went on my way. Fast forward a couple hours. My phone rings and it is this jacka$$ from Global (Mike something...had glasses and not much personality back in '00). He starts tearing into me and threatening me telling me it wasn't cool to take a sale from him. Evidently the guy waiting got pissed of being dicked around and it taking so long and left without buying any of the $1000 worth of parts that this jackass was digging up for him. I just laughed at his arrogance on the phone and thanked him for his very courteous phone call. I hung up and immediatly called the general manager of the dealership who was less than helpful and didn't seem to care how his employees treated people. At that point I vowed never to let Global have a penny from me and shared my experience with anyone who ever thought of being a patron there. YMMV...but this sounds like common behavior from Global. I hope your situation works out better than mine did. R.
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#10. RE: Shocks and Struts - from Ahmad Lutfeali
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Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 14:22:01 -0400 From: "Ahmad Lutfeali" <m3_racer99@hotmail.com> Subject: RE: Shocks and Struts Jason, With what you are trying to accomplish (stock height and slightly firmer ride), you can run 1) Bilsteins but you will "have" to change the springs. Run it with stock springs and it 'will' raise the car one full inch in the front (ask me how I know). Hence you will need Eibach Springs with it (since H&R OE will not cut it either and I have run H&R Sport and the drop was a bit noticeable). Hence Eibachs/Bilsteins = same height as stock/stock. 2) Koni with Eibach (more drop than Eibach/Bilsteins). H&R OE and Konis = Almost stock ride height. With Konis, you can run the stock springs as well. So if you were in the market for running stock springs with aftermarket shocks, go with Konis. If you plan on upgrading the springs, know you know your options. PS: I chose Bilsteins because I suffer from MOD (modification obsessive disorder) and spend more time turning boost and shock knobs than driving the car hence Koni was a no no for me :P -------------------- 3 -------------------- Date: Thu, 05 Aug 2004 22:46:53 -0400 From: Mo Karamat <karamatm@optonline.net> Subject: Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) Jason, The cut N Gut is not that big of a deal. I remember when we did mine, Wayne picked up this really cool pipe cutter, and make the cutting of the front strut housings VERY easy, and clean. After that it is just a matter of drilling in the center of the other side, and slipping in the insert. I highly recommend the Koni's. The adjustment is a nice feature as well. If you do this, I would also suggest the externally adjustable rears. As far as springs, I have the Eibach Pro kit, which does lower the car.. I believe that you can stay with the stock springs when using the Koni's. I have heard that the Blisteins have quite a harsher ride than the Koni's in our cars. The strut hat swap will give you more negative camber, but will also eat the insides of your front tires a LOT more... So it is a trade off.. (That is why I am looking into camber plates..) I am sure a bunch of the other guys will have opinions as well.. Hope this helps Mo 98 M3/4 91 325IX 82 323i (Perhaps will have a completed engine next weekend!)