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#1. Re: Reminder: Check the bolt holding the Koni in!!! - from Neil Maller
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Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2004 14:42:59 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: Reminder: Check the bolt holding the Koni in!!! on 8/8/04 2:37 PM, LoweSeaton@aol.com at LoweSeaton@aol.com wrote: > I think Chester was referring to the bolt that holds the Koni insert inside > the "cut and gut" strut housing. This is the hole that you have to drill in > the bottom of the strut housing after you remove the innards of the strut. Oh that one - I obviously misread his post. > I can see how the bolt would come lose after a few miles of use. The Koni > insert is a very tight fit inside the gutted strut housing so if you have any > burrs or out of roundness, the insert might not slide all the way down. But > after a few miles of bumpy roads, I bet the insert is well beat down. > Probably a good idea to routinely check the bolt after the first 100 miles for > everybody. Yes, I had that problem too, and went through a similar "what can that noise be?" search. however mine came out completely, so I lost both the bolt and the spacer. Loctite would be good there too! Neil 96 M3
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#2. RE: DME stomp code 1281 solution - from Jamie Howton
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Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2004 16:07:47 -0500 From: "Jamie Howton" <jhowton@fotofab.com> Subject: RE: DME stomp code 1281 solution Thanks to those who responded with ideas regarding my non idling engine problem. The problem turned out to be that I had forgotten to reconnect the hose that connects the idle stabiliser with the back of the intake manifold, Thanks Brett. Reconnected it, started right up and now it purrs, better than ever. I also replaced the voltage regulator and idle stabiliser since I had the intake off. Now to tear into my 330i, I lost the oilpump in the middle of the carosel at Blackhawk Farms Raceway last weekend. So far everyone I have spoken to immediately says oilpump nut, right after I tell them I span off the track the session before. Anyone ever have this happen to them? What usually gets damaged engine wise? The car ran for maybe a total of a minute after the red light came on with a mixture of Mobil 1 5W30 and Redline 20W50. Regards Jamie Howton
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#3. adjusting sway bars - pretension issue?? - from Mdriver13@aol.com
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Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2004 21:55:54 EDT From: Mdriver13@aol.com Subject: adjusting sway bars - pretension issue?? Group, Is there a particular way to change the setting on adjustable sway bars. All conrners off the ground, nothing off the ground (this would be hard in front), or does it matter at all? TIA, Bob Gill 97 ///M3 coupe Philly Region SCCA BSP Champion '01 & '02 SM '03
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#4. Michelin Pilot Sport cup fitment question - from Chester Wong
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Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2004 20:24:34 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Michelin Pilot Sport cup fitment question Will 255/40R17 PSCs fit on stock 8.5" forged wheels and fit on the car on all four corners? =) What would be needed to get them to fit? Fender rolling in the back? Thanks, Chester =====
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#5. Re: [E36M3] Michelin Pilot Sport cup fitment question - from LoweSeaton@aol.com
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Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 01:27:07 EDT From: LoweSeaton@aol.com Subject: Re: [E36M3] Michelin Pilot Sport cup fitment question Chester, I have Toyo RA1 255/40R17 on BMW OE 8.5" forged rims on all four corners. While not the same tire, I think I can give you some general advice. You will actually have the least problems on the front. If you are running stock front struts (i.e., stock, Bilstein, Koni "cut and gut") and stock diameter springs, you will have plenty of clearance on the inside. Well, you will have 1/8" but anything over 0" is fine. The wheel does not move relative to the strut. The only issue you will have on the front is rubbing on the inside of the fender. To avoid this will require at least -2.5 degrees of camber. You will have to swap your strut hats or use adjustable camber plates. The rear will give you the most trouble. You will have plenty of clearance on the inside but the outside of the tire will rub on the fender. You will have to aggressively roll the rear fenders. And you will need to max out the negative camber. You may still get some light rubbing high up inside the fender. I haven't figured out a way to address this yet. Maybe some light hammering of the inside fender. Bottom line, you will have to run aggressive negative camber settings front and rear. If you do predominately street driving, expect your tires to wear quickly. Good luck, Lowell Seaton '95 M3 -------------------------------------------------- chester_p_wong@yahoo.com writes: Will 255/40R17 PSCs fit on stock 8.5" forged wheels and fit on the car on all four corners? =) What would be needed to get them to fit? Fender rolling in the back? Thanks, Chester
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#6. running an auto-x - from Jay G
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Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2004 19:29:33 -1000 From: Jay G <jguzman@hawaii.edu> Subject: running an auto-x sorry for the cross post...this has also already been posted to the UUC Garage digest, so i apologize if you've seen it before...but i want as much input as possible :) hey fellow garagers...i'm one of the "chiefs" at our local auto-x, and we're gonna have a meeting this week and brainstorm a few ideas to make our auto-x a little more efficient...so, i want the opinions of my fellow garagers... we currently run 4 heats, and the classes are distributed so the heats are about the same size, e.g A,B,stock with D,E mod, etc...workers currently run one heat and work the next, i.e. run heat 1, work heat 2; run heat 2, work heat 1... unfortunately, our only racing venue at this time is on a race track...no open airfields or large parking lots is available...so, that kinda jumbles the logistics a bit...our courses usually run from one end of the couse to the other...see our track here: http://www.hawaiiracewaypark.com/layout.html the timing trailer is usually setup in the skid pad, and the beginning/end of our courses is at the sweeper (turn 7), and hairpin (turn 1)...we run the courses a different direction each month... we do have a wireless timing system which works good most of the time, but it does crap out every now and then, resulting in re-runs...also walking the course takes a little while...drivers times are announced over broadcast FM radio- a system we just got, and is pretty cool i have to say... anyway, we'd like to be able to do things more efficiently, especially with our growing number of autox'ers...we average over 100 every month, and the course is ~60-70 seconds long... some have suggested to make the courses shorter, but imho, that'd decrease the fun...or do we need to just get started earlier??? what do you folks do in the mainland to take care of a lot of entrants...any ideas greatly appreciated...
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#7. Re: [E36M3] adjusting sway bars - pretension issue?? - from Jay W. Hudson
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Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 06:55:49 -0700 From: "Jay W. Hudson" <jwhud@budget.net> Subject: Re: [E36M3] adjusting sway bars - pretension issue?? > Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2004 21:55:54 EDT > From: Mdriver13@aol.com > Subject: adjusting sway bars - pretension issue?? > > Group, > > Is there a particular way to change the setting on adjustable sway bars. All > conrners off the ground, nothing off the ground (this would be hard in > front), or does it matter at all? > > TIA, > > Bob Gill > 97 ///M3 coupe > Philly Region SCCA > BSP Champion '01 & '02 > SM '03 > Best to do it with weight of car on suspension. Make friends with someone who has a muffler shop. Their lifts raise the car from the tires. Or, they have a pit. You can also use ramps. Jay
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#8. Head gasket R&R....done - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 07:29:20 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Head gasket R&R....done Hey guys. We replaced Dave Ngo's head gasket a week ago. I ordered the Victory Product Design tool, but they were slow in shipping it so I got it the day after we finished everything. Great. We ended up going with one of these tools: http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/KD-3271.html I wasn't a big fan of the tool. Very slow and awkward to use. I would suggest a tool like this: http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/shop/KD-3271.html But I have yet to determine if it will fit correctly. O...you don't need the spring compressor tool if the only thing you're doing is replacing the head gasket. On Dave's car, we did: - Replaced the VANOS - Replaced the hydraulic lifters - Replaced the valve springs - Replaced the retainers - Swapped his stock S52 intake manifold to the S50 one - Installed coilovers :) O...if you do decide to freshen your valve train, I would suggest getting a valve seal puller. It's a PITA to get them off and we ended up using a pair of channel lock tile nippers ground to be a bit narrower. You end up crushing the old one, but if you're careful, you can successfully get them all off. I would still get the $20 tool!!! I would also suggest draining the coolant before doing the head work as coolant will spill once you pull the head anyway....which then goes into the oil passages. Overall, it took us 2 days (a whole weekend...it was almost as if I went to work for two weeks straight!) to do all of the outlined action items. ....though I only slowed things down when I had some brain fade and attempted to install the thermostat backwards and use the alum housing to pull it in...thereby cracking the housing and taking a 2 hour detour to pick up a new one! Other than that, I had that head off and back on real quick ;) ...I don't know what was Wayne's problem that weekend...hahahahaha. O...I would also get some sort of chemical solution to dip the valves in to remove the carbon deposits. All that talk about fuel additives and stuff...pure bunk. There was tons of crude on the intake valves and a bunch more on the exhaust ones. Chester =====
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#9. RE: [E36M3] running an auto-x - from Graeme Weston-Lewis
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Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 11:31:42 -0600 From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> Subject: RE: [E36M3] running an auto-x Jay, There are only a few areas where an improvement will give you more time to play. 1. Start earlier 2. Reduce the time between releasing vehicles from the start 3. Worker changeover 4. Finish later 1. Start Earlier. Not "Get there earlier", but "Get cars on course earlier". What holds you up the longest from arriving on site to actually sending the first car off? Registration? Fix: Use more people. Tech? Fix: Don't tech all cars first thing, tech them in grid while the previous heat is running. This way you only have to tech the heat 1 vehicles before you start the event. Course Walk? Fix: No good fix here. All you can really do is close the course for walking a little earlier. I mean *close* the course. Have a specific time the course will close and stick to it. Even if it takes assigning a worker to stop people starting after the course is closed. Drivers Meeting? Does the drivers meeting seem to go on forever? Fix: Encourage the person (or people) who talk at the meeting to work off a checklist. This keeps them on subject and makes sure no important info is missed. 2. Reduce the time between releasing vehicles from the start. "Speed things up by making the course shorter". Assuming you run more than 1 car on course at a time (if not, *there's* your biggest bang for the buck), the size of the course is irrelevant. The key time is the vehicle spacing. ~30s between vehicles is a good target. If you get down towards 25s spacing, it can be difficult for corner workers to get the cones reset before the next vehicle arrives on scene. More than 30s and you are wasting time. 3. Worker changeover You say you have workers work immediatly after they run. This makes it difficult to get the worker changeover done efficiently as the last drivers are getting their car back into the paddock, then rushing out to their work assignment. Try giving the drivers 1 heat to get their breath back. A run/work order that works very well is: Run Work 1 3 2 4 3 1 4 2 Now workers have no excuse not to be ready for the changeover as soon as the heat ends. If you can cat to the corners safely without encroaching on the course, you can even try "change on the fly" where you start sending out worker during the last runs of the previous heat. If you have a lunch brake, don't. Now drivers have a heat to grab some food so you don't need to shut down the event for an hour or so. 4. Finish Later OK, so this one really is not a great suggestion and as an event official, I'm sure you don't want to be clearing up in the dark. However, make "site cleanup" a real work assignment. That way you can continue to drive longer, but still get off site around your usual time. If you implement any of the above, be prepared for some resistance and complaints. People are averse to change, but sometimes you have to force it on them before they will see the benefits of it. Good Luck, Graeme Weston-Lewis Colorado Region SCCA Solo2 Event Chair - Retired -----Original Message----- From: Jay G [mailto:jguzman@hawaii.edu] Sent: Sunday, August 08, 2004 11:41 PM To: E36M3 Subject: [E36M3] running an auto-x Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2004 19:29:33 -1000 From: Jay G <jguzman@hawaii.edu> Subject: running an auto-x sorry for the cross post...this has also already been posted to the UUC Garage digest, so i apologize if you've seen it before...but i want as much input as possible :) hey fellow garagers...i'm one of the "chiefs" at our local auto-x, and we're gonna have a meeting this week and brainstorm a few ideas to make our auto-x a little more efficient...so, i want the opinions of my fellow garagers... we currently run 4 heats, and the classes are distributed so the heats are about the same size, e.g A,B,stock with D,E mod, etc...workers currently run one heat and work the next, i.e. run heat 1, work heat 2; run heat 2, work heat 1... unfortunately, our only racing venue at this time is on a race track...no open airfields or large parking lots is available...so, that kinda jumbles the logistics a bit...our courses usually run from one end of the couse to the other...see our track here: http://www.hawaiiracewaypark.com/layout.html the timing trailer is usually setup in the skid pad, and the beginning/end of our courses is at the sweeper (turn 7), and hairpin (turn 1)...we run the courses a different direction each month... we do have a wireless timing system which works good most of the time, but it does crap out every now and then, resulting in re-runs...also walking the course takes a little while...drivers times are announced over broadcast FM radio- a system we just got, and is pretty cool i have to say... anyway, we'd like to be able to do things more efficiently, especially with our growing number of autox'ers...we average over 100 every month, and the course is ~60-70 seconds long... some have suggested to make the courses shorter, but imho, that'd decrease the fun...or do we need to just get started earlier??? what do you folks do in the mainland to take care of a lot of entrants...any ideas greatly appreciated... ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#10. 2006 3-Series (E90) Sales brochure - from Graeme Weston-Lewis
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Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 12:38:29 -0600 From: "Graeme Weston-Lewis" <gweston@lsil.com> Subject: 2006 3-Series (E90) Sales brochure I wonder who's head will roll for leaking this! http://gwl.rmsolo.org/misc/06-3.pdf I'm going to reserve final judgement on the E90 until I see it in person. Form the pictures, the "Bangle Butt" is toned down, but the styling still appears way too busy for my taste. Graeme