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#1. Re: [E36M3] running an auto-x - from Andrej Dolenc
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Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 23:04:40 -0400 From: Andrej Dolenc <adolenc@erols.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] running an auto-x There's been some suggestions thrown out, I'll throw out one that the local CCA chapter (national capital) has started implementing. We started doing this at the end of my stint as autox coordinator, club still does it. Wasn't our original idea, we started doing it after some of the other local autox clubs started. One of our big problems was finding course workers, especially for the last heat of the day. We'd have to hold up the 3rd heat while we corral some folks to go out and do course work. What we started doing is called the split-heat worker rule. There, you split each heat into two groups, rougly same number of drivers in each. One group works, other runs. When one group finishes driving, the two swap. The big thing that makes this work is to have somebody who is essentially chief of workers. You tell 1st group to get in their cars and grid up, 2nd group stay at the drivers meeting and assign them worker posts. As 1st group drivers finish their 1st or 2nd runs, go up to them and assign them a worker spot. Somebody doesn't show up and work? Their time doesn't count. There is a bit of running around while people park their cars and come back at the change, but overall the split-heat definitely sped up the NCC autocrosses. If you're really dealing with tons of cars, you can always take some of the people who would be on course and assign them to tech, help speed that up. That was always one of our problem spots, especially before and during the 1st heat. Andrej '97 M3 former NCC autox coordinator Jay G <jguzman@hawaii.edu> wrote: > sorry for the cross post...this has also already been posted to the UUC > Garage digest, so i apologize if you've seen it before...but i want as much > input as possible :) > hey fellow garagers...i'm one of the "chiefs" at our local auto-x, and we're > gonna have a meeting this week and brainstorm a few ideas to make our auto-x > a little more efficient...so, i want the opinions of my fellow garagers... > we currently run 4 heats, and the classes are distributed so the heats are > about the same size, e.g A,B,stock with D,E mod, etc...workers currently run > one heat and work the next, i.e. run heat 1, work heat 2; run heat 2, work > heat 1... > unfortunately, our only racing venue at this time is on a race track...no > open airfields or large parking lots is available...so, that kinda jumbles > the logistics a bit...our courses usually run from one end of the couse to > the other...see our track here: > http://www.hawaiiracewaypark.com/layout.html > the timing trailer is usually setup in the skid pad, and the beginning/end > of our courses is at the sweeper (turn 7), and hairpin (turn 1)...we run the > courses a different direction each month... > we do have a wireless timing system which works good most of the time, but > it does crap out every now and then, resulting in re-runs...also walking the > course takes a little while...drivers times are announced over broadcast FM > radio- a system we just got, and is pretty cool i have to say... > anyway, we'd like to be able to do things more efficiently, especially with > our growing number of autox'ers...we average over 100 every month, and the > course is ~60-70 seconds long... > some have suggested to make the courses shorter, but imho, that'd decrease > the fun...or do we need to just get started earlier??? what do you folks do > in the mainland to take care of a lot of entrants...any ideas greatly > appreciated...
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#2. Re: [E36M3] broken motor mount! - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 20:38:45 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] broken motor mount! Part # Description 11 81 1 141 137 Drive side mounting bracket 11 81 1 138 249 Passenger side mounting bracket 11 81 2 228 298 Engine mounts 07 11 9 901 314 M8x26 bolts (you'll need 8 for both sides) 22 11 1 095 298 M10 flange nut (you'll need 4 for both sides) 32 11 1 139 315 Passenger tie rod 32 11 1 139 316 Driver tie rod 32 21 6 756 327 M10x1 nut for the tie rod to the kingpin (you need 2) 32 11 1 140 464 Locking plate to secure tie rods to rack (you need 2) 32 11 1 137 132 Rubber boot strap (you need 2) 32 13 1 094 100 Rubber boot strap (you need 2) HTH, Chester --- Andy Radin <fourfa@fourfa.com> wrote: > First, if anyone has the part # handy that would be great. Anyone ever seen > this part fail before? I don't recall hearing of it. Second, what else > should I replace while I'm under there with the engine hoisted? Both rubber > mounts I assume, anything else? Third, the tech complained the inner > steering tie rods are worn, would it be wise to replace the outer ones too? =====
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#3. Re: [E36M3] On a 2 door - How do I remove rear the window flipper - from Chester Wong
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Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 20:40:25 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [E36M3] On a 2 door - How do I remove rear the window flipper By flipper do you mean the bracket that pushes the window out? There are two 10mm bolts holding the bracket behind the c-pillar trim. You might first try disconnecting the torx bolt that holds the bracket to the window...not sure if the trim will be removeable with just that detached. Good luck, Chester --- scott noltensmeier <snoltens@yahoo.com> wrote: > On a 2 door - How do I remove rear the window flipper. > > I want to replace the inner window trim on one of my rear windows -- how do I > remove the flipper. > > Is it a pin that I can push out or something else? =====
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#4. Re: broken motor mount! - from Neil Maller
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Date: Mon, 09 Aug 2004 22:41:40 -0500 From: Neil Maller <neil.maller@gte.net> Subject: Re: broken motor mount! on 8/9/04 10:02 PM, "Andy Radin" <fourfa@fourfa.com> wrote: > Third, the tech complained the inner steering tie rods are worn, would it be > wise to replace the outer ones too? They come as a complete tie rod assembly, inner and outer halves. Neil 96 M3
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#5. broken motor mount! - from Robert Manger
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Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2004 10:12:05 -0400 From: Robert Manger <Robert_Manger@Mastercard.com> Subject: broken motor mount! I has this happen to my car 95 m3. Turner was doing a total under car refresher over the winter and found that one mount was split in half, not a good thing. I had them replace both, might as well. While your in there you might want to do the oil pump nut since the engine will lifted to assist in getting at the oil pan. I also did my control arms and assorted bushings that are related, some were cracked and my car only has 52k on it The tie rods can be sourced as a complete assembly and its not even worth the time to just to one side of them, they are only $50 bucks or so a side, you'll need a thin 32mm wrench to get them off on the rack side, but other than that they are easy to replace. You'll need an alignment after though. HTH Rob Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 18:02:19 -0700 From: "Andy Radin" <fourfa@fourfa.com> Subject: broken motor mount! I got a shock today while getting an alignment... the passenger side motor mount bracket, connecting the rubber motor mount to the block, is broken completely in half. and missing a bolt to boot! Never heard any noise or had any problems, though the oil pan has a mark where it's bumped the steering rack. First, if anyone has the part # handy that would be great. Anyone ever seen this part fail before? I don't recall hearing of it. Second, what else should I replace while I'm under there with the engine hoisted? Both rubber mounts I assume, anything else? Third, the tech complained the inner steering tie rods are worn, would it be wise to replace the outer ones too? Car is a 98 coupe, 93,000 miles, one major accident (rear, not front). thanks, andy r. ----------------------------------------- CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE This e-mail message and any attachments are only for the use of the intended recipient and may contain information that is privileged, confidential or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, any disclosure, distribution or other use of this e-mail message or attachments is prohibited. If you have received this e-mail message in error, please delete and notify the sender immediately. Thank you.
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#6. WTB: IFG 17x9s - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2004 08:10:43 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: WTB: IFG 17x9s =====
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#7. WTB: IFG 17x9s - from Chester Wong
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Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2004 08:11:00 -0700 (PDT) From: Chester Wong <chester_p_wong@yahoo.com> Subject: WTB: IFG 17x9s If you have a pair or a set of four, let me know! Chester =====
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#8. RE: RE: [E36M3] Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) - from Dames, Mark A.
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Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2004 08:37:04 -0700 From: "Dames, Mark A." <Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US> Subject: RE: RE: [E36M3] Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) Mel, here's what the ceramic cutting disc looks like http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&p id=00925024000 it would attach to a rotary cutting tool or "grinder" like this one http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/product.do?BV_UseBVCookie=Yes&vertical=TOOL&p id=00926955000 An anecdote from my experience: If you get the strut housing tops cut off, get the old struts out, and then the new struts don't slip right in, there's nothing wrong with you, your technique is not lacking, god doesn't hate you --- your strut housings are just bent. There is no cure, you've got to buy new strut housings. Both of mine were like this. You may want to place a straight edge along your housings before you start cutting to check if they are true. I don't know how common this is. I believe whoever owned the car b4 me may have run over something like a curb. mark. -----Original Message----- From: Mel Silva [mailto:melsilva@mindspring.com] Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2004 9:28 AM To: Dames, Mark A.; E36M3 Subject: RE: RE: [E36M3] Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) Mark, do you have a brand name or part for this device? My new struts should arrive next week. Mel -----Original Message----- From: Dames, Mark A. [mailto:Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US] Sent: Friday, August 06, 2004 8:21 PM To: E36M3 Subject: RE: RE: [E36M3] Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 18:19:00 -0700 From: "Dames, Mark A." <Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US> Subject: RE: RE: [E36M3] Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) Chris, I felt empathetic pain from your toil and just had to sound the alert, having applied forehead to brick in much the same fashion on other ventures only to find out later about an easy tool/cure/shortcut. When informed of the below device I was suspicious, then amazed when a piece of "pottery" cut through steel like butter. Live & learn. mark. -----Original Message----- From: cteague@cox.net [mailto:cteague@cox.net] Sent: Friday, August 06, 2004 3:51 PM To: E36M3 Subject: Re: RE: [E36M3] Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) Date: Fri, 6 Aug 2004 18:43:33 -0400 From: <cteague@cox.net> Subject: Re: RE: [E36M3] Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) Mark, OK, where were you when I was cutting MY struts up! ;-) Yes, the hacksaw isn't the fastest, but I DID save the trip to Home Depot. And seriously, the hour I gave was conservative, and did include the the time to drill the hole in the bottom. But I do like Mark's idea! Chris > > From: "Dames, Mark A." <Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US> > Date: 2004/08/06 Fri PM 05:11:07 EDT > To: E36M3 <e36m3@bmw-m.net> > Subject: RE: [E36M3] Shocks and Struts (for the billionth time?) > I cannot, in good conscience, let this man's wasted two hours be to no > avail. > You can cut the top off of the stock housing in one minute with A very thin, > 3 inch ceramic cutting disc (available at Home Depot), that would fit on the > end of either a drill or a rotary air or electric cutting tool. > mark. > > Chris wrote: > > > I have also ran the Koni SA inserts in the stock housing, and > I think it took about 1 hour per strut to cut the top off with a > hacksaw and drill the hole in the bottom. Really no big deal. > > Chris ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm ************************************************* ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm *************************************************
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#9. E46 Wheel Q: - from Dames, Mark A.
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Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2004 08:41:00 -0700 From: "Dames, Mark A." <Mark.Dames@PDO.Co.Santa-Clara.CA.US> Subject: E46 Wheel Q: Does anyone know if the rear tire/wheels on an E46 M3 or 330 (255 x 35 x 18) will also fit on the front of the car (ala E36 understeer cure)? mark.
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#10. RE: [E36M3] Repair Tips - from Bob Vaughn
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Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2004 09:23:01 -0700 From: Bob Vaughn <Bob_Vaughn@Telestream.net> Subject: RE: [E36M3] Repair Tips Grass Valley, CA. Northern CA about an hour north of Sacramento. I've got 3 estimates so far ranging from $2200 to $3800. Each estimator that looks at it finds something more that's damaged. The clips that holds the radiator in are broken, the hood liner is torn, etc. It's amazing how much this stuff costs to fix. I'm just glad the airbag didn't blow... that would've been big bucks! Get it... "bucks"... "deer"... never mind. -- Bob _____ From: Kent L. Shephard [mailto:kents@kls-consulting.com] Sent: Monday, August 09, 2004 5:16 PM To: Bob Vaughn Cc: E36M3 Subject: Re: [E36M3] Repair Tips Where are you? Bob Vaughn wrote: Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2004 14:09:14 -0700 From: Bob Vaughn <mailto:Bob_Vaughn@Telestream.net> <Bob_Vaughn@Telestream.net> Subject: Repair Tips Hit a deer on Friday and smashed in the front left corner. Mostly the hood, but it dented the quarter-panel a bit, took out the blinker, the light bucket, front cross-member, bumper trim, plus a few other odds and ends. Any advice before I go to get it fixed? I know I should ask for BMW parts and paint, but anything else? Insurer is AAA. -- thx, Bob '95 ///M3 ************************************************* Please help support the E36M3 list by visiting our sponsors: Bimmerworld http://www.bimmerworld.com <http://www.bimmerworld.com> Turner Motorsport http://www.turnermotorsport.com <http://www.turnermotorsport.com> Eurosport High Performance http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com <http://www.eurosporthighperformance.com> Rogue Engineering http://www.rogueengineering.com <http://www.rogueengineering.com> DIGEST INFORMATION: http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm <http://www.bmw-m.net/resources/digest_info.htm> ************************************************* -- "To announce that there must be no criticism of the President, or that we are to stand by the President, right or wrong, is not only unpatriotic and servile, but is morally treasonable to the American public." <!--[if !supportEmptyParas]--> <!--[endif]--> 1918, Theodore Roosevelt